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#1. Say NO to dealer mark-up! - from j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 22:40:06 +0200 From: j.demartino@us.qiagen.com Subject: Say NO to dealer mark-up! Sorry for the off topic but I cant think of a better place to ask... I am looking for a recommendation for where I can locate a Mini Cooper S, at list price, without dealer markup! I refuse to do business with any dealer charging the markup. I don't mind shipping the car. Any recommendations? Thanks, John John DeMartino QIAGEN Inc. Senior Product Manager Drug Screening and Assay Development Phone: 800-426-8157, ext. 23507 Fax: 661-702-3652 j.demartino@us.qiagen.com www.qiagen.com <http://www.qiagen.com/> QIAGEN. Dedicated to Your Success.
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#2. [E36M3] Musical Chairs - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:47:22 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Musical Chairs Just got done cleaning and conditioning the light grey leather in my '99 M3 (vader seats). Overall, I've taken good care of the upholstery, and you'd never guess that the car has over 80k miles on it. The driver's seat, however, does have noticible wear in a couple of areas (where the seat belt rubs and where my left leg makes contact when getting in/out of the car. Also a few nicks in the leather here and there, but nothing terrible. I realize the seats themselves couldn't be switched, due to the the location of the power seat adjustments. Is it possible, however, to remove all the cushions and swap sides that way? If so, does anyone have a write up on this, or care to comment on how hard it is to do so? (just sounds more convenient and less expensive that buying aftermarket seats... which I'm sure I'll end up doing eventually anyway, but not for a while). Thanks, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:43:36 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? > I haven't jacked up the car to see if something is rubbing, > but since it came on fairly abruptly, I'm wondering if it > could be something not caused by contact. Okay, so I ascertained what's grinding, and now I'm 99% sure it's caused by the bearing. I am now running a big brake kit with thicker rotors. Under slow-speed, no throttle, left hand turns, the rotor is making contact with the control arm. Not good. At higher speeds (even at full lock) or in straight lines, it's not an issue. Only in the exact conditions I described. There has to be enough free play in the bearing that it is causing it to touch, as under static load or while jacked up there is plenty of clearance. This is not an issue at all on the other side. So, now I have to change bearings. Wanna share those instructions Neil? Anything else I should consider doing at the same time? Special tools? Thanks, -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#4. rear brake rattle - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 16:52:47 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: rear brake rattle I know we are talking about the inboard pad (and the three prongs that fit into the caliper piston) but isn't the pad that typically rattle the outboard one? I haven't heard too many complain of pads rattling and pinpointed the inboard pad. Typically, it is the outboard pad that rattles. I suppose the prongs could brake on the inboard pad but isn't the typical issue. Regards, Rich
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 14:10:51 -0700 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? I just installed a Movit kit and am having the exact same problem. I figured that the offset was wrong because I am using the 96+ kit on my 95. I hear the 96+ spindles give you more clearance. I was planning on swapping those in. I'd be interested in swapping notes on this. Rob -----Original Message----- From: peter@guagenti.com [mailto:peter@guagenti.com] Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 1:57 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:43:36 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? > I haven't jacked up the car to see if something is rubbing, > but since it came on fairly abruptly, I'm wondering if it > could be something not caused by contact. Okay, so I ascertained what's grinding, and now I'm 99% sure it's caused by the bearing. I am now running a big brake kit with thicker rotors. Under slow-speed, no throttle, left hand turns, the rotor is making contact with the control arm. Not good. At higher speeds (even at full lock) or in straight lines, it's not an issue. Only in the exact conditions I described. There has to be enough free play in the bearing that it is causing it to touch, as under static load or while jacked up there is plenty of clearance. This is not an issue at all on the other side. So, now I have to change bearings. Wanna share those instructions Neil? Anything else I should consider doing at the same time? Special tools? Thanks, -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:21:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? Dan Wang just went through all of this. You might want to contact him. Chester --- Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> wrote: > I just installed a Movit kit and am having the exact same problem. I > figured that the offset was wrong because I am using the 96+ kit on my > 95. I hear the 96+ spindles give you more clearance. I was planning on > swapping those in. I'd be interested in swapping notes on this. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Say NO to dealer mark-up! - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 14:22:06 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Say NO to dealer mark-up! Not sure if they're actually a MINI dealer, but I was at Steve Thomas BMW on Friday ordering some parts and they had something on the showroom floor. I was in a bit of a rush, so I didn't see if it was the "S" or not, or whether they will sell them there, but it did have a dealer plate on it. They never charge over sticker on any of the BMWs, so I'd assume it would be the same for MINIs if they in fact sell them. Steve Thomas BMW (805) 482-8878 I've dealt with Leo Berry and Chris Conlon in the past, and been very happy with their service. No affiliation (but I do know half the staff there from school), Jonathan L. >From: j.demartino@us.qiagen.com > > >Sorry for the off topic but I cant think of a better place to ask... > >I am looking for a recommendation for where I can locate a Mini Cooper S, >at >list price, without dealer markup! I refuse to do business with any dealer >charging the markup. I don't mind shipping the car. > >Any recommendations? > >Thanks, > >John > >John DeMartino _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#8. Help! Koni Install - from mroblin@att.net
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:53:37 -0700 From: <mroblin@att.net> Subject: Help! Koni Install I need some help. Installing the Koni SA strut inserts into my original struts - everything came apart fine, got the struts put in place. On attempting to put reinstall the upper spring plates, noticed that I was missing the beveled washer which sits on the damper's upper shoulder (i.e., shock rod), between the upper spring plate and the shock rod. |--| |--| threaded top of shock ____|__|____________ bottom of upper spring plate /____\ shoulder | | | | chromed/polished shock rod. section of washer, its .192 tall, 1.038 OD, .695 ID _________ |__/ \__| I've been driving around the SF bay area looking for one to no avail. Tried Dinan, Rennwerks, all the local race shops, local independents, and all the dealers, but no one has one. Any suggestions, or does anyone have a spare? I'll drive anywhere in the SF bay area to get it. Thanks, Murray
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#9. Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from K Quistorff
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:04:05 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? From my own experiences and disussions with folks "in the know", I'm under the impression that I can't expect one brake pad material to perform great from winter cold to track school hot. Therefore, I was planning to purchase a set of dedicated track school pads for my (new to me) E36 M3 and go through the pad swapping and rotor cleaning process for each school. However, based on the recent postings on this list, it sounds like the Porterfield R4S pads might stand a chance of running double-duty, offering outstanding cold and normal street temp performance, possibly even high enough for track schools (maybe?), and very low dusting. Has anyone had any bad results with the R4S's on an M3 during track schools? I'd really like to know any experiences before I give it a try. Also, I'm curious if anyone has similar experience with Hawk HP+ pads. I'm finding feedback from ouside the M3 circles indicates that Hawk HP+ pads might offer the widest range of performance for any street pad. According to a compilation of feedback from a variety of local racers here in NC (if interested, see http://www.nogumracing.com/technical/brakes.html), as well as Paul Elliot's posting on this list (snipped below), Hawk HP+ pads may be regarded as a better all-around (street, autocross, and track school) pad than the R4S and also offer very low dusting. Anyone with HP+ experience, especially on an M3, please offer your opinions, etc. Thanks in advance. Keith Quistorff Cary, NC (snip) >If I were you, and you were looking for a good >street pad, Id go with the Hawk HPS pads. > >Paul Elliott
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Help! Koni Install - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 15:03:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help! Koni Install I believe you want part number 31 32 1 129 977. Maybe you dropped it somewhere when disassembling the assembly? Chester --- mroblin@att.net wrote: > |--| > |--| threaded top of shock > ____|__|____________ bottom of upper spring plate > /____\ shoulder > | | > | | chromed/polished shock rod. > > > section of washer, its .192 tall, 1.038 OD, .695 ID > > _________ > |__/ \__| > > > I've been driving around the SF bay area looking for one to no avail. Tried > Dinan, Rennwerks, all the local race shops, local independents, and all the > dealers, but no one has one. Any suggestions, or does anyone have a spare? > I'll drive anywhere in the SF bay area to get it. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 15:06:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? Do yourself a favor and buy a set of PF97s for your car. They'll stop like crazy and they'll last real long. There is no such thing as a good enough street pad for track use. I love it when people say, "Oh, it's good for light track duty." If you drive like a grandma, then sure, go for the R4Ss, but in my book, there is no such thing has light track duty. There might be such a thing as light street duty for track pads (because there, you'd not going very fast). Wayne had a set of PF90s for a few years ago and they still had some material left for an additional day at the track :) Just my $.02, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com