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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 16:54:02 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? Peter, With oversized rotors, it may be entirely unrelated to wheel bearing. I think, if it only occurs at low speed full lock, I would just set the lock position a little less. The bearing may be OK especially if you can't get any motion of the hub assembly by hand with the car jacked up. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: <peter@guagenti.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 1:57 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? | Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:43:36 US/Pacific | From: peter@guagenti.com | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? | | > I haven't jacked up the car to see if something is rubbing, | > but since it came on fairly abruptly, I'm wondering if it | > could be something not caused by contact. | | Okay, so I ascertained what's grinding, and now I'm 99% sure it's caused by the | bearing. | | I am now running a big brake kit with thicker rotors. Under slow-speed, no | throttle, left hand turns, the rotor is making contact with the control arm. | Not good. | | At higher speeds (even at full lock) or in straight lines, it's not an issue. | Only in the exact conditions I described. There has to be enough free play in | the bearing that it is causing it to touch, as under static load or while | jacked up there is plenty of clearance. This is not an issue at all on the | other side. | | So, now I have to change bearings. Wanna share those instructions Neil? | Anything else I should consider doing at the same time? Special tools? | | Thanks, | | -peterg | | -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------- | This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. | http://www.hispeed.com | | | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. | ************************************************************* | |
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#2. Fuel Filter - from Scott King
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 20:07:03 -0400 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: Fuel Filter <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV> <P>Can someone enlighten me on removing the shield concealing the fuel filter on a 97+ M3. I was starting an Inspection II this evening, and decided after the sparkplugs and oil change to go ahead and take a look at the fuel filter. There were (2) 8mm bolts that I removed, but at the other 4-6 attachement points of the shield, there appear to be some sort inverted rivet of some sort. How do I remove these? I didn't have time for further investigattion, but a quick look in the Bentley didn't even show the shield!!! I'm sure someone else has run into this...</P> <P>The frustrating part is that the filter and plugs were listed as changed at a previous inspection II that was covered under the maintenance agreement, and after looking at the shield and plugs I removed, I don't believe they were. If you want some thing done right...</P> <P>Any help would be greatly appreciated...</P> <P>Scott King<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:24:03 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter At 05:07 PM 7/1/02, Scott King wrote: >Can someone enlighten me on removing the shield concealing the fuel filter >on a 97+ M3. I was starting an Inspection II this evening, and decided >after the sparkplugs and oil change to go ahead and take a look at the >fuel filter. There were (2) 8mm bolts that I removed, but at the other >4-6 attachement points of the shield, there appear to be some sort >inverted rivet of some sort. How do I remove these? I didn't have time >for further investigattion, but a quick look in the Bentley didn't even >show the shield!!! I'm sure someone else has run into this... If I think I know what you're referring to, they're nuts, 8mm or 10mm. They'll screw right off. And there's 2-3 of them IIRC. (Sheesh, I just did this myself a month or so ago, and can't exactly remember. Sucks getting old <g>.) Hope that helps (if not let me know and I'll crawl under the car & check), Jim Bassett
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#4. Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? - from SWKAUF@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:25:59 EDT From: SWKAUF@aol.com Subject: Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Hi All, I am at the point of buying the diamond ( fairly complete) warranty from Warranty Gold for my 98 M3. I have 27,500 miles and the factory warranty runs out in August. They want $1665 for a 6 year/72,000 mile warranty. I wonder if it is better to take my chances without a warranty. Also, I am curious what experience other people have had with this company. There are several companies that will not cover an M3 at all. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve 98 M3/4
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#5. Re: PF97's (was brake pads for street and track schools) - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:31:54 EDT From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Re: PF97's (was brake pads for street and track schools) In a message dated 7/1/02 3:24:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Chester writes: > Do yourself a favor and buy a set of PF97s for your car. They'll stop like > crazy and they'll last real long. Do the PF97s have the same issues that the PF90s did with respect to rotor/pad compatibility? I remember putting some PF90s on and having the car shudder like I had massively warped the rotors. Putting on cleaned up rotors solved the problems and I loved the PF90s. Also, doesn't PF have a new PF2002 or PF2000 compound out now too? I've been running the Mintex C-tech 1166s front and 1155s rear and they are good, just not *fantastic* like Hawk blues (or now, HT-10s are). However, one set of Hawks costs as much as 2 sets of Mintex pads... BTW: Anyone going to O'Fest early to watch the club races July 13-14? Stop by and say 'hi' if you are. Thanks, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#6. DieHard Battery for 95 M3 - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:56:27 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 Dan, >>The "49" in the Exide part number means the battery is a "Group 49" form factor. Every battery has a group number, which is a standard that battery manufacturers adhere to. If the Exide group 49 battery fits the 95 M3, then any group 49 battery should also work. DieHard has a group 49 out of their "International" line - vented and maintenance free. 99 bucks (cheaper than the Exide) and fits like a glove!<< Technically, our stock batteries are group 48.5, which is why theyre so damn hard to replace. Some group 49s will fit; others are just too big. So, do you happen to have the dimensions of the DieHard which you found to fit so well? Does it also fit so that our hold down clamp will secure a lip of the battery? Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:10:31 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? > Also, if it hasn't been mentioned already, get a set of dedicated F rotors > for the track as well (Brembos are $60/each from The Ultimate Garage). Not > much extra time needed when swapping pads, and the pads will thank you <g>. > > My 2 cents, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 - stock & PF90/97, now just stock > 1993 325is #44 KP - Hawk Blues, may try Pagid Oranges Why the emphasis on dedicated rotors? Is it just an issue of bedding them in everytime you swap pads, or is there some other benefit? Jeff, with one set of rotors
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:24:59 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? > everything snipped< Keith, Just a few points of clarification, the Hawk HPS pads and the HP+ pads are not the same. The HPS pads, which I run are fine for the street. The HP+ pads are quite a bit dustier and noiser, but do have a chance at holding up on the track if you excerise good braking technique and proper cool down, are not running R comps, and the ambient temps aren't horrific. If any of the above aren't true, then they may or may not work. Experiences vary. I tried the combo approach. It didn't work. I'm using HPS street and Porterfield R4 (not R4S pads), and even the R4 track pads seem to be not quite up to the task. I'll know more in the coming weeks. But, they do brake very, very well, and are even steetable to/from the track (200 miles round trip for me) and around town over a DE weekend. I do sound like a garbage truck though. ;) If the R4 track pads don't hold up, I'll again pray to the credit card gods, call up bimmerworld, and get some badass HT10's. Lastly, there is only one pad that's been offered in some a few circles as being a 'do-it-all' pad. Those are The Brakeman #3's. Bobby Archer (the viper guys) swear by them, and the enthusiasm for the pad has spilled over to his M3 crowd (he runs a euro tuning/repair/race shop), and now seemingly the some of the S2000 guys in these parts like them. Supposedly very good bite, though not quite the bite of a Blue or HT10, with an operating range of *ambient* to 1200 degrees. Jeff
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Musical Chairs - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:30:57 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Musical Chairs Jonathan, Funny that you bring that up. You may have to cut and paste the link: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=7c059f3b3a069e6bc00d2559b fe02629&threadid=36419&highlight=seat Jeff > Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:47:22 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Musical Chairs > > Just got done cleaning and conditioning the light grey leather in my '99 M3 > (vader seats). Overall, I've taken good care of the upholstery, and you'd > never guess that the car has over 80k miles on it. The driver's seat, > however, does have noticible wear in a couple of areas (where the seat belt > rubs and where my left leg makes contact when getting in/out of the car. > Also a few nicks in the leather here and there, but nothing terrible. > > I realize the seats themselves couldn't be switched, due to the the location > of the power seat adjustments. Is it possible, however, to remove all the > cushions and swap sides that way? If so, does anyone have a write up on > this, or care to comment on how hard it is to do so? (just sounds more > convenient and less expensive that buying aftermarket seats... which I'm > sure I'll end up doing eventually anyway, but not for a while). > > Thanks, > Jonathan
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: PF97's (was brake pads for street and track - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 21:39:05 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: PF97's (was brake pads for street and track schools) At 07:37 PM 7/1/02 -0500, KLchmn@aol.com wrote: >Do the PF97s have the same issues that the PF90s did with respect to >rotor/pad compatibility? Yes. >Also, doesn't PF have a new PF2002 or PF2000 compound out now too? Hmm...haven't heard about this. Let us know what you find. Geof
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? - from Cheng, Margaret
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:32:55 -0700 From: "Cheng, Margaret" <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Hi, Steve and list: I have had a Warranty Gold extended warranty for my 97 M3 for about a year, and just made my forst claim, an inner tie rod that was replaced, no problem. My brother has had several cars with a Warranty Gold warranty, and is very pleased with big jobs done, including tranny work, etc. He loves having the security, and I believe that they have already paid for themselves in his case. These warranties won't pay for R/R items prior to breakage, unfortunately. Radiators, water pumps, etc. come to mind. Also, aftermarket parts aren't covered either. If you aren't in a hurry to buy, they will solicit you via email on a weekly basis, with emails offering discounts up to $500 off. They did that to me, anyway. You can give them a chance to give you a better offer if you have time. It's actually not a full $500 off the price they quoted you, but usually you will save some $. Also, if you know of anyone who already has a warranty, they give a $50 referral fee, and you can split that. In the past, others from the list have organized a group buy, and they seem to discount that as well, although it may be a similar discount to that if you wait for an email sale. I actually bought a warranty to 150K for something like $2450. I have forgotten whether it was 5 or 7 years. I'm not sure that was worth it, but it depends on your car (history of power steering problems, which have seemed to resolve...). I t may be worth polling people to see how many problems tend to crop up between 50 and 72K miles. I would think the 100K warranty might be better, since it would seem that more things would break in the 100K range. Although, you have a car which seems to have extremely low mileage (you should drive it hard and often--it's more fun that way! : ) ). I don't know the prices of the different plans, but the no deductible one was a no brainer for me. Also the highest level of coverage is nice. Good luck. Margaret 97 white M3/4, (61K) hoping that I don't need to use the extended warranty too much... SWKAUF@aol.com on 07/01/2002 05:27:27 PM Please respond to SWKAUF@aol.com To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> cc: Subject: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:25:59 EDT From: SWKAUF@aol.com Subject: Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Hi All, I am at the point of buying the diamond ( fairly complete) warranty from Warranty Gold for my 98 M3. I have 27,500 miles and the factory warranty runs out in August. They want $1665 for a 6 year/72,000 mile warranty. I wonder if it is better to take my chances without a warranty. Also, I am curious what experience other people have had with this company. There are several companies that will not cover an M3 at all. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve 98 M3/4