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#1. Warranty? - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 20:03:09 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Warranty? Here's what I've replaced on my car in 2 years and 50K miles of ownership: ( not including labor ) - climate control $250 - wheel bearings $200 (preventative maintenance, wouldn't have been covered) - radiator $150 - water pump $50 - thermostat $20 - front control arm bushings $50 (powerflex, weren't dead yet) - rear control arm bushings $50 (powerflex, weren't dead yet) - shocks/struts $500 (wasn't dead yet, replaced with H&R coilovers) - shifter bits $100 (weren't dead yet) - RSMs + plates $50 - undertray $100 - both wheel well liners $60 - diff bolts $10 - microfilter $30 x 2 (not covered) - clutch/flywheel $750 - $1000 (not covered) Stuff I need to replace: - Guibo and bits $200 (not dead yet, but getting there) - seat covers/foam $500 - driver's side seat belt $100 - front sway bar endlinks $50 - A/C recharge $100 - $250 (not covered) All in all, it's been pretty good. I've also gone through normal maintenance items, synthetic oil, oil filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, tranny fliud, diff fluid, brake pads and rotors, with associated bits. In terms of stuff that has actually broken and would be covered by warranty? Now a whole lot. So, this car hasn't been cheap. But it's been fairly good considering it's a 5 year old car with 360 hp. -kit
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:22:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? It's not really about bedding, but more of the carbon deposit the track pads put on the rotor. When you switch back to stock pads, the carbon layer doesn't come 100% off. Sure, it gets cleaned up a bit, but the rotor will always be a bit darker than if it had only seen street pads its whole life. The only way to get it completely off is to cut the rotor using a lathe. My theory is that the street pad might take it off, but it just smeared around and redeposited. I noticed that with the stock brakes and street pads (after PF90s for a track day) that the stopping ability didn't return 100%. Having said that, I switched my front and rear Movits back to Porsche OE pads after using Pagid Oranges at Pocono. The first few stops were real eye openers :) But after having driven the car for a while, I'm not sure if the stopping ability came back 100% The car definitely stops well, but I'm not sure if I was just used to the Pagid Oranges which were real grabby. Chester As a side note, I was a rear seat passenger in some dude's Honda tonight. OMG! You just never really get a good appreciation for how much better of a driver you are after driver schools and just being in this M3 community. Steering inputs weer abrupt...braking was horrible...on/off switch...throttle was...ugh I almost thought that he was driving an autocross...hahaha His lane changes were real bad...not made with confidence because his side mirrors were pointed to the back of the car. I didn't want to say anything :) > Why the emphasis on dedicated rotors? Is it just an issue of bedding them > in everytime you swap pads, or is there some other benefit? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#3. Michelin Pilot Sport cup vs. Kumho Victoracers for AutoX. - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:51:25 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Michelin Pilot Sport cup vs. Kumho Victoracers for AutoX. I am in need of a new set of 255/40-17 kumho's. Called Tirerack, and they are currently out of stock (actually they had 1 heat cycled tire). The salesperson said they did have Pilot Sport Cup's in stock in that size, and they have had reports that they grip better than Kumho, and wear better also. (Sounds too good to be true, but there were customer posts stating that on thier web site...). Locally in Southern Calif (LA/SD), I have not seen anyone run these yet. Has anyone compared these tires head to head with Kumho or Hoosier? Chris 97 M3/4 SM
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from donna seeley
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 21:22:27 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? LOL!! I instructed with an open-tracking group last week and found a new definition for 'forgiving car', waay above the E36M3 [OBMWC]: a Porsche 996 C4! My female student was eager to learn & listened well but still pulled moves (lifting at every apex) that any self-respecting car would have thrown us into the weeds for. The P-car just said "okey-dokey" and trundled along. I got the second one midday. Hopped in, asked him what he was working on, and he said "staying on the track." Ruh roh! He'd had just one little off at the slowest corner, so I knew we would be working on 'too early, too hot.' :) Both of them went out for educational rides in the 'momentum car.' [more OBMWC] Donna -- 88 M3, "Guido" #41 JP <- half the hp & half the lap times 95 M3A, super-commuter * for sale * :( <- also educational, but quieter > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:22:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong > <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and > track schools? R4S? HP+? > > <>> As a side note, I was a rear seat passenger in some dude's Honda tonight. > OMG! You just never really get a good appreciation for how much better of a > driver you are after driver schools and just being in this M3 community. > Steering inputs weer abrupt...braking was horrible...on/off switch...throttle > was...ugh I almost thought that he was driving an autocross...hahaha His lane > changes were real bad...not made with confidence because his side mirrors were > pointed to the back of the car. I didn't want to say anything :) >
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Warranty? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 08:08:12 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Warranty? I'm curious. What do you all do to your cars? I track mine a couple time a year and this is the list of repairs in 3 years, not counting the addons like x-brace, e-code lights, etc.: Is my care unique? Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Kit Wetzler [mailto:kitwetzler@mindspring.com] Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:07 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Warranty? Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 20:03:09 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Warranty? Here's what I've replaced on my car in 2 years and 50K miles of ownership: ( not including labor ) - climate control $250 - wheel bearings $200 (preventative maintenance, wouldn't have been covered) - radiator $150 - water pump $50 - thermostat $20 - front control arm bushings $50 (powerflex, weren't dead yet) - rear control arm bushings $50 (powerflex, weren't dead yet) - shocks/struts $500 (wasn't dead yet, replaced with H&R coilovers) - shifter bits $100 (weren't dead yet) - RSMs + plates $50 - undertray $100 - both wheel well liners $60 - diff bolts $10 - microfilter $30 x 2 (not covered) - clutch/flywheel $750 - $1000 (not covered) Stuff I need to replace: - Guibo and bits $200 (not dead yet, but getting there) - seat covers/foam $500 - driver's side seat belt $100 - front sway bar endlinks $50 - A/C recharge $100 - $250 (not covered) All in all, it's been pretty good. I've also gone through normal maintenance items, synthetic oil, oil filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, tranny fliud, diff fluid, brake pads and rotors, with associated bits. In terms of stuff that has actually broken and would be covered by warranty? Now a whole lot. So, this car hasn't been cheap. But it's been fairly good considering it's a 5 year old car with 360 hp. -kit ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from Brad Ahrens
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 06:39:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Ahrens <txsaggie97@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? If you do decide to replace the bearing or go with the 96+ unit I found this link sent to me by Ron Stygar very helpful: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_replace_front_wheelbearing.html One thing to keep in mind is you can "borrow" some of the tools you need at Pepboys like the 36mm socket, gear puller, etc. I bought pretty much everything as I didn't realized they rented that much out. Good to have for next time anyway. Email me if you have any specific questions. I found what I needed at Sears and Pepboys - most items at Sears. I got the parts from Zygmunt but in the link there are other good options for getting a kit. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <peter@guagenti.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 1:57 PM > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? > > > | Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:43:36 US/Pacific > | From: peter@guagenti.com > | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? > | > | > I haven't jacked up the car to see if something > is rubbing, > | > but since it came on fairly abruptly, I'm > wondering if it > | > could be something not caused by contact. > | > | Okay, so I ascertained what's grinding, and now > I'm 99% sure it's caused > by the > | bearing. > | > | I am now running a big brake kit with thicker > rotors. Under slow-speed, no > | throttle, left hand turns, the rotor is making > contact with the control > arm. > | Not good. > | > | At higher speeds (even at full lock) or in > straight lines, it's not an > issue. > | Only in the exact conditions I described. There > has to be enough free play > in > | the bearing that it is causing it to touch, as > under static load or while > | jacked up there is plenty of clearance. This is > not an issue at all on the > | other side. > | > | So, now I have to change bearings. Wanna share > those instructions Neil? > | Anything else I should consider doing at the same > time? Special tools? > | > | Thanks, > | > | -peterg > | > | __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#7. poor man's..........solution? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 07:54:05 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: poor man's..........solution? ""poor man's" solution" - I sure love my M3 - but I don't believe there is any ""poor man's" solution" (unfortunately) with this car, except maybe camber shims!! Now an old RX-7 perhaps......... Kim L Burgess 767 Liaison - WIC (425)266-5721
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 10:57:00 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? I have been using Hawk HP+ on my 98 M3 for both street and track. I've just run two weekends at Carolina Motorsports Park and Roebling Road where it was 97° and the pads held up fine. I may try Hawk Blues for track though and go back to stock for the street. The HP+ are very noisy on the street when cold and dust very badly. BTW, I'm running stock rotors all around. Dave Kelley 98 BMW M3/4 Arctic Silver > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:04:05 -0400 > From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> > Subject: Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+? > > >From my own experiences and disussions with folks "in the > >know", I'm under > the > impression that I can't expect one brake pad material to > perform great from winter cold to track school hot. > Therefore, I was planning to purchase a set of dedicated > track school pads for my (new to me) E36 M3 and go through > the pad swapping and rotor cleaning process for each school. > However, based on the recent postings on this list, it > sounds like the Porterfield R4S pads might stand a chance of > running double-duty, offering outstanding cold and normal > street temp performance, possibly even high enough for track > schools (maybe?), and very low dusting. Has anyone had any > bad results with the R4S's on an M3 during track schools? > I'd really like to know any experiences before I give it a > try. > > Also, I'm curious if anyone has similar experience with Hawk > HP+ pads. I'm finding feedback from ouside the M3 circles > indicates that Hawk HP+ pads might offer the widest range of > performance for any street pad. According to a compilation > of feedback from a variety of local racers here in NC (if > interested, see > http://www.nogumracing.com/technical/brakes.html), as well > as Paul Elliot's posting on this list (snipped below), Hawk > HP+ pads may be regarded as a better all-around (street, > autocross, and track school) pad than the R4S and also offer > very low dusting. > > Anyone with HP+ experience, especially on an M3, please > offer your opinions, etc. Thanks in advance. > > Keith Quistorff > Cary, NC > > (snip) > >If I were you, and you were looking for a good > >street pad, Id go with the Hawk HPS pads. > > > >Paul Elliott > > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > >
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Front caliper piston won't retract - any suggestions - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 10:58:51 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front caliper piston won't retract - any suggestions You need to remove the cap from your brake fluid reservoir and drain some of the fluid. If you left the cap on, you would have trouble retracting the pistons. > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:29:54 -0700 > From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front caliper piston won't retract - > any suggestions > > I don't really have an answer, but was curious: > > Would this happen if you didn't remove the cap on the brake > fluid reservoir and had already pushed back some of the > pistons? I could see this causing pressure to build in the > system, preventing the pushing back of that last piston. > Last time I did the brakes I had to suck out some of the > brake fluid with a turkey baster, or it would have > overflowed. > > Other than that, maybe the piston is binding and its time > for a rebuild? > > Apologies in advance for my mechanical ignorance. ;) > > - Markus > > > While changing pads today at the track I found that I > > could not get a > front > > caliper pistons to go back in. Even two hands on a huge > > c-clamp would > not > > move the piston. Anyone have a suggestion on how to get > > the piston to > > > retract? Thanks > > > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot Sport cup vs. Kumho Victoracers for AutoX. - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:01:31 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot Sport cup vs. Kumho Victoracers for AutoX. I talked to a Porsche Speed GT driver at a track event this weekend and he loves the Cup tires. But you can't really compare them to the Kumho's. They cost like twice as much or more! > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:51:25 -0700 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Michelin Pilot Sport cup vs. Kumho Victoracers for > AutoX. > > I am in need of a new set of 255/40-17 kumho's. > > Called Tirerack, and they are currently out of > stock (actually they had 1 heat cycled tire). > > The salesperson said they did have Pilot Sport > Cup's in stock in that size, and they have had > reports that they grip better than Kumho, > and wear better also. (Sounds too good to > be true, but there were customer posts stating > that on thier web site...). > > Locally in Southern Calif (LA/SD), I have not > seen anyone run these yet. Has anyone compared > these tires head to head with Kumho or > Hoosier? > > Chris > 97 M3/4 SM > > > > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > > >
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:08:58 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Those guys are huge BS'ers! Worse than used car salesmen! > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:25:59 EDT > From: SWKAUF@aol.com > Subject: Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? > > > Hi All, > > I am at the point of buying the diamond ( fairly complete) > warranty from Warranty Gold for my 98 M3. I have 27,500 > miles and the factory warranty runs out in August. They > want $1665 for a 6 year/72,000 mile warranty. I wonder if > it is better to take my chances without a warranty. Also, I > am curious what experience other people have had with this > company. There are several companies that will not cover an > M3 at all. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Steve > 98 M3/4 > > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > >