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#1. Let's try this without the HTML crap - Yokohoma Tire problem with M5 wheels - from John Rather
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 13:00:35 -0500 From: "John Rather" <JRather@chemsoft.com> Subject: Let's try this without the HTML crap - Yokohoma Tire problem with M5 wheels Sorry everyone; I'm going to take advantage of my admin status... I am trying to put M5 wheels on my '88 M3. The M5 wheels are off of a '91-93 M5 (throwing star style). The tires that I am trying to mount are 215/40 17inch Yokohoma Parada's. I have had them to numerous installers and no one can get them on. The tire will go on the wheel, but the tire side which faces the outside will not go over the safety bead on the wheel. The inside is no problem, mainly because the safety beads on the rim are asymmetric and the inside is smaller. I realize that with 40 series tires, they are a pain to get on, but this is ridiculous. Yokohoma and TireRack both say that it shouldn't be a problem. Any advice at all?? And yes, the installers did lube the hell out of it. TireRack won't take the tires back since they have been sitting in my kitchen for a year. My only option at this point is to take a loss on the tires or see if I can get a machine shop to remove that safety bead portion on the inside of the wheel (can we say liability). You are welcomed to email me privately so that we can keep this non-e36 off of the list. Thanks! John C. Rather computer email - jrather@chemsoft.com mobile email - jrather@chemsoft.net 920.431.0003 - work 408.515.6373 - mobile http://www.chemsoft.com/ - Software Development http://www.chemsoft.net/ - Internet Services http://www.rather.net/ 920.431.0434 - home
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Warranty? - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 11:12:58 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Warranty? I am the first to admit that not only am I pretty hard on the car, but I'm also pretty anal about replacing things... I'd rather replace things than have to fix them again... I don't like to wait until things break so a lot of the stuff I've done to the car is pre-emptive maintenance. So, your mileage may vary. :) -kit
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#3. Carfax - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 14:19:10 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Carfax Are there any promo CarFax links currently in order to run the full report? I haven't seen any mentioned lately but I thought I would ask. Thanks in advance. Regards, Rich
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Front strut removal techniques/tools - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 14:24:00 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front strut removal techniques/tools I just got mine in today from my local auto parts store. It's a 18mm/.75" sleeve, and i measured my strut nuts at 22mm. Is factory size 22mm or are they 18mm? Hopefully they'll refund my money since i haven't opened it. Chuck Brazeau 95 M3 Violet/Black http://www.brazeauracing.com/ Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 20:22:58 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front strut removal techniques/tools > This was from some time ago, but with the recent impact wrench/impact > tool/strut posts, I thought it might be time to pass it around again. > > Removal and reinstallation of the top nut on BMW front shock struts have > always been a problem if the special and expensive socket tool was not > available. Various makeshift solutions generally got the job done with > some additional degree of difficulty. Now a very inexpensive (under > $10.00) new tool is available from "Lisle", the automotive specialty > tool makers known for making the mechanic's life easier without causing > bankruptcy. Lisle tool #20390, called a "Shock Absorber Tool for Ford" > is the perfect fit for BMW, but Lisle doesn't realize the additional > application. Now you do. Any auto parts store can obtain the tool for > you. > > http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/suspens/index.htm > > Jake Davis > 95 M3/2.....128K and counting Jake, Thanks. I called today and ordered it from Lisle. B/t my $20 impact wrench and this $11 tool, hopefully I'll be successful in my suspension overhaul. Jeff 97 M3/4, out go the H&R c/o's, in go the GC c/o's.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE:Warranty in California - from donna seeley
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 11:23:02 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Warranty in California On 07.02.02 10:07 AM, "Frank Logan" <fblogan@cox.net> wrote: > Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 09:57:10 -0700 > From: "Frank Logan" <fblogan@cox.net> > Subject: RE:Warranty in California > > Since Warranty Gold (nor any other internet based extended warranty) is not > available in California ?? Is this something recent? I got WG in 1999. Donna
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Say NO to dealer mark-up! - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 13:56:10 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Say NO to dealer mark-up! j.demartino@us.qiagen.com wrote: > > Sorry for the off topic but I cant think of a better place to ask... > > I am looking for a recommendation for where I can locate a Mini > Cooper S, at list price, without dealer markup! I refuse to do > business with any dealer charging the markup. I don't know what all the fuss is about the MSRP pricing. What you, as a buyer, should care about is the invoice pricing + whatever markup you need to give to the dealer to take the car home. Not some silly MSRP guesstimate released by the factory on where they _think_ dealers _might_ mark up the cars. If you can't or do not want to pay the asking price, vote with your feet. That's capitalism for you. The only known alternative is corruption. Don't delude yourself by aiming for the MSRP. Shop for invoice + the markup level with which you are comfortable. > I don't mind shipping the car. > Any recommendations? John, Have you checked your local dealer's loaner policy? Down here in TX if you did not buy your car from that particular dealer you get no loaner. Assuming you ever need to get your Mini serviced for more than 30 minutes, that may become a considerations. take it easy, alex f
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Driving technique Was:[Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+?] - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 12:20:51 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Driving technique Was:[Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+?] Mike, Buy this book: "Going Faster: Mastering the Art of Race Driving: The Skip Barber Racing School" by Carl Lopez, Danny Sullivan Lots of technical details on proper technique as well as some good info on brakes and suspension setups. Amazon sells it for $29.95. - Bob -----Original Message----- From: Michael Stembera [mailto:m_stembera@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 9:27 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Driving technique Was:[Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+?] Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:22:00 -0500 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Driving technique Was:[Brake Pads for street and track schools? R4S? HP+?] Speaking of proper driving/racing techniques... Is there an online resource that explains some of them in enough detail so that I could then practice and teach myself? For a start maybe something describing/depicting the proper way to go through a turn fast? Thanks! Mike (can't afford a driving school just yet)
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#8. Re: What do you all do to your cars? was RE: [E36M3] Warranty? - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 15:28:45 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: What do you all do to your cars? was RE: [E36M3] Warranty? Jamie Thomas writes: > I have owned my car for 5 years (since new) and have put 76,000 miles = > on it. I rally the car 3x per month, have over 40 track events, a few = > auto-x's on it and its a daily driver. Other than a x-brace and a Dinan = > chip, the car is stock. The car has not needed any repairs in 5 years. I = > have done all the routine maintenance and changed the brakes and the = > windshield (rock chip) once. Other than that, all the parts are = > original. I am extremely happy with the car and am finding it to be a = > workhorse. I do not baby the car, except for oil changes (synthetic) and = > I flog it pretty good at the track and on rallies. I guess some people = > are luckier than others. If I had to do all those repairs to my car, I = > would not only be broke but upset about the reliability of my fine = > German automobile.=20 Jamie, I'm in a similar boat as you, my '97 M3 is at 80k miles, all of them put on by me. I've had a fair bit less track time in that car, but a whole lot of autox abuse on it. While the car has been very reliable so far (barring a tranny that was replaced under warranty), I can definitely say that the car is getting to an age where maintenance costs are going to start appearing. Not long ago I replaced the shocks and the rear trailing arm bushings, and lemme tell you how much better the car drives now because of those pieces! There's other stuff on there that is waiting in the 'I'll get to it sooner or later' pile, the engine under-tray is held on by a few screws and some zipties at this point, the rubber door trim on the passenger side is falling apart (despite using Gummi Pfledge (sp?)). And there's other wear & tear items looming on the horizon. Cars do cost money to own & drive. Both you and I have been lucky in that those costs have been minimal so far. But it won't stay that way forever. Andrej '97 M3
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#9. RE: Driving technique - from Jay G
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 10:58:42 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: RE: Driving technique it's a funny kawinkidink you used the words "turn fast"...check out http://www.turnfast.com/ ...a great resource...no affiliation, blah, blah, blah... Michael Stembera wrote: > For a start maybe something > describing/depicting the proper way to go through a turn fast?
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#10. a/c = good - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:43:03 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: a/c = good I finally gave up and had my A/C recharged at a 76 station near my house. R134a evacuation and recharge machines are ridiculously simple. The BMW delership near my house wanted $275 to use the SAME MACHINE! rowr. Anyway, cost me just under $100 bones, they connect a hose to the high side and one for the low side, evacuate, flush and automatically fill the A/C system. Took 1.9 lbs of R134a. Worked great, I just went from my car to the office and the office feels hot! yay! -kit, who now needs tint -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#11. Climate Control Problems / Noise Under Hood - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 15:56:55 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Climate Control Problems / Noise Under Hood Anyone have any ideas on this one. About a week ago my climate control started acting up on my 97 M3. It occasionally wouldn't turn on after starting the car, but would come on after a few minutes of driving. Then maybe turn off again or flash on/off a few times. Usually stayed on once running though. The last few times I drove the car it wouldn't come on at all - short 10min trips. All the fuses were OK. When a parked the car today I noticed strange under hood noises near the fan, more to the passenger side. Almost a rattling or rubbing noise, periodic in nature ~5Hz or so, that fades in and out. Possibly belts? How much play should there be in the fan? It looked to be a little off balance, but I've never really examined it before. Could the noise be related to the climate control problems? I also noticed unusually warm temps in the footwell without the climate control working. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3