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#1. RE: Yokohoma Tire problem - from Joe Tan
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 13:34:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Yokohoma Tire problem John, Dyou didn't mentioned what is the width of the wheels. If they are 8" or wider, they would be too wide for the 215mm wide tires. Even if you manage to mount them your performace will suffer and you will scratch the hell out of your rims. My suggestion is to sell these 215 and get some wider some 235mm wide tires. Joe T. '98 M3/4 w/ 235mm tires on 8.5" rims and in need wider tires. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 - from Dan Bocek
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 13:48:31 -0700 From: Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> Subject: Re: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 >You mean, on the front facing side? If I recall, my battery wants to be >right up flush next to the frontward face of the enclosure, I guess because >the wire is pulling it there. You mean that if we move the battery >rearward, theres a threaded hole there for the clamp to go on the frontward >side of the battery instead of the stock rearward? Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. > From memory, I recall there are 2 holes to the rear side of the >battery....the one Im using, and one behind that, for a longer battery. Are >you saying that with the Die hard, the long threaded rod which holds the >clamp should come back to the rearward most hole, or we should push the >battery rearward, and thread the rod in front of it? Push the battery rearward, and the threaded rod in front of it. >I hadnt heard the Die Hard was a viable choice until now..I'll definitely >keep it in mind...Its the standard Diehard Group 49 battery which fits >right? I assume its Reserve and CCA values are superior to the stock >battery? Here's a link to the battery info on the Sears web site. I think it's better in every respect to the stock battery except that it might be a bit heavier due to it's slightly longer length. http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1901064923.1025729009@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccchadcfiimkejecehgcemgdffmdfim.0&vertical=AUTO&bidsite=&pid=02831249000 Cheers - -Dano-
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#3. Re: FS on eBay E36 LTW - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 15:58:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: FS on eBay E36 LTW on 7/3/02 3:23 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > Absolutely no interest in this.....yada yada....other than letting others > who might have be interested know about it: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1841270073 From the auction blurb: "This fine example is one of the last to roll out of the Motorsport factory, built in 10/95 it also has the more desirable titanium lifters and rods." Where did that BS come from I wonder, or is the seller trying to say these are aftermarket parts? I note car also has dealer installer sunroof and A/C. Neil 96 M3
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#4. WTB: E36 M3 in Kansas area - from Dan Hermann
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 16:00:47 -0500 From: "Dan Hermann" <dah328@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB: E36 M3 in Kansas area well, after months of little interest in my M3, a bunch of interested parties turned up in the last week, one of which bought my car. one of the other interested parties was quite disappointed as he said he had been having a hard time finding M3s for sale nearby. while he does live in Kansas (and i live in Texas), i was rather surprised that he couldn't find many M3s for sale as i see them advertised all the time. in any case, i offered to see if any list members knew of E36 M3s for sale in the Kansas area. obviously he is willing to travel to some extent as my car was in central texas, but he does not want a car from as far away as either the east or west coast. if you have or know of a car that fits that description, please email Tyler Eagleton (tylereagleton.at.hotmail.com) directly. feel free to mention that i solicited the request. regards, dan 88 325is ex 96 M3 :( ex 92 325i _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#5. Windshield Damage outcome - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 17:20:33 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Windshield Damage outcome I called my insurance company, Allstate, and asked them about amount of coverage...My policy has the glass portion listed with the Comprehensive covarge, which carries a $500 deductible...So I assumed that also applied to the glass...When it says 'full glass' coverage, I thought it just meant all the glass..But apparently it means full coverage, ie, no deductible applies...Which means they would cover a windshield replacement with absolutely no charge at all... I called the shop in the area they use, and they told me for my type of damage, even though it was only the size of a BB, because it was in the line of sight, and because it didnt leave a divet, but only a scuff, they would have to replace it...They said I could get the 'Premium' glass, which was supposed to be a BMW windshield, which allstate agreed to cover....Believe it or not, within 2 hrs, they had the glass, and by 4 pm, it was installed! I was thrilled....The job was clean, professional, and noone could tell anything was done, except for me, who was thrilled that all my pitting was a thing of the past...Makes you wonder why more people dont do it. Now, if only we could do the same thing for our pitted hoods and front spoilers! Thanks for you comments. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#6. RE: Winshield replacement - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:13:26 -0500 From: "Davis, Jake A" <jake.a.davis@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Winshield replacement 2 points: Apparently the windshield is a structural consideration in BMWs. Have seen several STRONG recommendations that the car not be moved for 12-24 hours after windshield replacement to allow proper curing and bonding of the windshield. My experience with 'genuine BMW' glass is that it is rather soft and prone to tiny 'abrasions' (for lack of a better word). These accumulate over time and after a while, when driving into the sun, tiny 'sparkles' appear all over the windshield. Several BMW owner acquaintances have had good luck with PPG windshields. So, if at all possible, grab a PPG windshield and let the car sit for a day. I'd also ask the glass replacement company a few questions as a sanity check before letting them have at it. I think the A pillar removal is a good idea too (the 'beater' GTI has lots of extra goop on headliner/A pillars from a budget windshield replacement. Jake Davis
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#7. More Autoglass info - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:00:21 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: More Autoglass info >>the only difference is the eraser-head-sized roundel on the BMW glass, and I think it's $100 to $150 more.. so if you're paying for it, it's not worth it. If it's an insurance job, BMW glass would be preferable.. but really the generic (if you get the right generic, at least) is the same windshield<< The glass repair shop offered me the regular glass, or the 'Premium' glass...I asked what the difference was, and she said it was BMW glass on the 'Premium'. So, I opted for the premium, if Allstate would pay for it...She called Allstate, and they said they would. So, I guess I have the 'Premium' glass...Although frankly I dont know what the difference is...I didnt see any BMW identifying marks on it...But maybe i need to look closer. Any idea where this mark ( what is it..the roundel? ) is supposed to be? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Alarm remote - from David Ripton
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 18:11:11 -0400 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alarm remote Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> wrote: > I just found a lost alarm remote control for my 96 328I that I sold a while > back. It looks to be the same as the one for my 99M3. Is there any way to > re-program this to work with my M3. It's in the alarm owner's manual. Since you're asking you probably don't have one, so I'll summarize. Close doors, trunk, hood Disarm alarm Remove key Open trunk Open driver's door Sit in driver's seat Close driver's door Cycle ignition switch 5 times between off and on (not start), quickly. * Alarm status LED should go red. for each remote { Open driver's door Close driver's door Press any button on remote that you want to program * Alarm status LED should blink off } Open driver's door Get out of car Close trunk Close driver's door * LED should go off, two chirps from siren Test that remotes work. If they don't, try again. -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net
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#9. Re: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:47:54 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 Hey Dano, Im looking into this....It seems that either the Diehard grp 48 or 49 will work. I believe the stock battery info is: >>7" W x 12 1/4" L at the very base lip, and 6 1/2" x 11 3/4" width/length overall. It is 7" high, but a slightly higher battery will fit (as well as slightly longer, but not 15" worth!) << Now, a Douglas 49/93 is 15 x 6 7/8" x 6 7/8"...which is too big for the M3, for comparison with a full 15" L battery.. So, Im concerned about the Die Hard 49 with 14 5/16 being too long also. The 48 seems to be an easier fit, and, its got 700 cca at 0 degrees (compared to stock cca of 650 at 0) and a reserve of 110 min (compared to stock of 120 mins I believe), which is only slightly lower. >>Paul - the Group 49 DieHard is about 3/4 of an inch longer than the stock battery<< Hmm...Stock is listed above, and is either 12 1/4 at the very base lip, or 11 3/4 overall....The Diehard 49 is 14 5/16, which is quite a bit more than 3/4" longer. >>One of the holes (actually on the opposite side of battery tray from the one you're used to using) works perfectly for a Group 49 battery. The third hole looks like it will accommodate a smaller than stock battery - something you weight conscience boys and girls might want to think about. << So, it looks like we can go with either 48 or 49, with the 49 being perhaps a slightly tougher fit, and slightly heavier (50 lbs vs 40 lbs), but also containing the somewhat superior numbers. I guess, if we can fit the 49, then thats the size to go with, and I guess youve proven it will fit just by reversing the location of the clamp. One thing is that, in the Sears pics of the diehards, the lip seems to be located in the east/west sides, but not on the north./south sides, and if I recall, our stock batteries are just the opposite..Why doesnt this cause a clamping issue, or, are the pictures at the link you gave us at Sears incorrect? Thanks for the info. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Bocek" <dan@rasy.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Cc: <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 4:48 PM Subject: Re: DieHard Battery for 95 M3 > > >You mean, on the front facing side? If I recall, my battery wants to be > >right up flush next to the frontward face of the enclosure, I guess because > >the wire is pulling it there. You mean that if we move the battery > >rearward, theres a threaded hole there for the clamp to go on the frontward > >side of the battery instead of the stock rearward? > > Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. > > > From memory, I recall there are 2 holes to the rear side of the > >battery....the one Im using, and one behind that, for a longer battery. Are > >you saying that with the Die hard, the long threaded rod which holds the > >clamp should come back to the rearward most hole, or we should push the > >battery rearward, and thread the rod in front of it? > > Push the battery rearward, and the threaded rod in front of it. > > >I hadnt heard the Die Hard was a viable choice until now..I'll definitely > >keep it in mind...Its the standard Diehard Group 49 battery which fits > >right? I assume its Reserve and CCA values are superior to the stock > >battery? > > Here's a link to the battery info on the Sears web site. I think it's > better in every respect to the stock battery except that it might be a bit > heavier due to it's slightly longer length. > > http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@ 1901064923.1025729009@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccchadcfiimkejecehgcemgdffmdfim.0&vert ical=AUTO&bidsite=&pid=02831249000 > > Cheers - > > -Dano- > >
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#10. OT: New Z4 Pic - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:08:16 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: OT: New Z4 Pic ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#11. OT: New Z4 Pic - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:08:21 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: OT: New Z4 Pic http://www.autonews.com/news.cms?newsId=2708 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com