E36M3 #2421

Friday, July 05, 2002 20:05:03

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info - from Mel Silva
#2. Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic - from Peter Guagenti
#4. FS: JTD STN Rings for E36 3-series - from Peter Guagenti
#5. Re: [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info - from GGray657@aol.com
#6. Annoying Noise hard to Diagnose - from Paul Elliott
#7. front bumper damage repair - from russell
#8. Re: [E36M3] front bumper damage repair - from NickG
#9. High-ouput alternators? - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
#10. Re: [E36M3] High-ouput alternators? - from Chester Wong

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#1. [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:27:30 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info Just as another point of reference, I know a glass replacement "technician" (for lack of a better title) personally. John does agree that the car should not be moved or washed for 24 to 48 hours depending on the type of adhesive used for the glass. He also recommends (for you sedan owners like me) that you lower a window slightly before closing the doors. On solidly built cars like the BMW's the seals are so good that the compression of air caused by closing the door can pop out the windshield, or at least break the seal, causing a loss of structural integrity and possible water leaks later. I have seen him replace windshields in everything from Infinity Q45's and Chebby Pickem' up trucks to motor homes with their "wall of glass" front windscreens. This guy is a real pro and very affordable. He also replaced the windshield in a friend of mines C5 Corvette who was very happy with the work. He will get whatever grade of glass you want, apparently their are at least a couple. Anyone need new glass in Houston, I'll give you his number. Mel

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#2. Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 22:33:29 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic I actually like the look. From the front, isn't this what the M6 will look like? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001

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#3. Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:10:42 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: New Z4 Pic on 7/4/02 7:33 PM, Mdriver13@aol.com at Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > I actually like the look. From the front, isn't this what the M6 will look > like? I like the look a lot too. It shows what looks like a new design trend -- making the look of the coupes much more unique and modern than the "sausage in 3 different lengths" model they've had for the sedans since the '80's. The new Z will probably end up in my driveway when it comes out, especially when the ///M version is released... -p

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#4. FS: JTD STN Rings for E36 3-series - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:33:20 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: FS: JTD STN Rings for E36 3-series For Sale: JT-Designs Transmission "STN" Rings. For those who don't know, these are metal rings that wrap around your existing transmission mount bushings to limit free play. This lowers the possibility of mis-shifting and causing an over-rev. They've been on the car for about a year, and were only replaced because I blew my bushings (not bad for 120k miles). I switched to a UUC poly bushing/mount instead. New sells for $80, asking $50 obo (shipping is included). -peterg

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#5. Re: [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 23:54:59 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] More Autoglass replacement info Yup, the guy who put my new window in my 95 told me to take it home and park it in the garage with the sunroof open for 48hours before driving it. I asked him why. And he told me they use a special bonding agent that they heat to 200 degrees before they put the stuff on. I watched them do it, sure enough the glue was smoking hot when they put it on. They took the tubes from a special heater and straight over to the car to use. It was pretty cool. GGray

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#6. Annoying Noise hard to Diagnose - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 18:57:12 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Annoying Noise hard to Diagnose Last January, my BMW dealer installed a Dinan stage I suspension, including Koni shocks, and springs. A month later, I heard a clunking rattling noise from the rear left shock area. I brought it back to the dealer, and they tightened the rsm bolts, and said I was good to go...And I was for another few weeks, when back came the noise. BUT....the problem is sporadic, and every time I have the car into the dealer for a scheduled service of some kind, the damn noise shuts the hell up, and they cant hear it, so they cant diagnose. I did have a mechanic check the bolts for me some time ago, and they were tight, so thats not the problem...Also, when they installed the shocks in Jan, they installed new RSMs so I doubt thats the issue either. It almost sounds like someone left a spare wrench or bolt in the area of the tower because I may go several days of hearing nothing over all kinds of rough pavement..Then, I may hit a piece of rough pavement of just the right shape, at just the right speed, and bank, I hear a loud clunk, and then it may rattle til I put it away for the evening...The next day, all will typically be quiet again! Its almost like whatever it is thats rattling, it settles down til I manage to shake it loose with a hard initial bump, after which it will rattle for a while, until it has the chance to settle down again, where it will remain quiet until I repeat the cycle... Does this remind anyone of any particular kind of problem? I know thats a long shot, but who knows....Also, any ideas of how to get the dealer to deal with it? I think I'll have to hunt for a big pavement scar to try and shake loose whatever it is, and then drive it over to the dealer right after, and have someone go out with me, just to show them whats up...Does this sound like a valid plan? Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#7. front bumper damage repair - from russell
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 14:10:53 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: front bumper damage repair just picked up my car from the body shop after having the front bumper replaced. everything looks fine, except after i got home i noticed that the black mesh screen isnt properly in place. there are 4 pegs on the bumper piece (2 on top, 2 on bottom) that go through small holes in the mesh that appear to be some kind of holding points. however, all i see are the pegs, and they are not holding the mesh piece flush with the bumper. though they are lined up properly, there is nothing to keep the mesh piece from getting pushed back some (about an inch or so). anyone know what keeps the mesh piece properly in place? i know i can take it back to the repair shop, but if its something simple i dont mind doing it myself (& in fact would RATHER do it myself if its easy). thanks, russell dakar 99 ===== "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com

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#8. Re: [E36M3] front bumper damage repair - from NickG
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 17:26:06 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] front bumper damage repair There's actually 8 prongs: 2 on top, 2 on bottom, and 2 on each side. The grille is held onto the bumper via small circular push-on clips, called "spring nuts". The BMW part number is spring nut qty 8 64 11 1 364 257 Nick > just picked up my car from the body shop after having the front bumper > replaced. everything looks fine, except after i got home i noticed that > the black mesh screen isnt properly in place. there are 4 pegs on the > bumper piece (2 on top, 2 on bottom) that go through small holes in the > mesh that appear to be some kind of holding points. however, all i see > are the pegs, and they are not holding the mesh piece flush with the > bumper. though they are lined up properly, there is nothing to keep the > mesh piece from getting pushed back some (about an inch or so). anyone > know what keeps the mesh piece properly in place? i know i can take it > back to the repair shop, but if its something simple i dont mind doing it > myself (& in fact would RATHER do it myself if its easy). > > thanks, > > russell > dakar 99

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#9. High-ouput alternators? - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 19:43:05 -0500 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: High-ouput alternators? Gruppe: Does anyone know if another higher output alternator will fir a 1995 M3? I am looking for an alternator with an output of ~110 to ~150 amps (higher IS more desirable). I know that some of the other models (larger ones with more electrical goo-gaws) had higher output alernators on them...any of them interchangeable? I am really hoping someone comes up with something! Thanks for all your help in advance! Andrew Joseph ajoseph1981@earthlink.net

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#10. Re: [E36M3] High-ouput alternators? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 18:01:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] High-ouput alternators? They actually made a 140A alternator for our cars. I believe the part number is: 12 31 1 744 563 Chester --- ajoseph1981@earthlink.net wrote: > I know that some of the other models (larger ones with more electrical > goo-gaws) had higher output alernators on them...any of them > interchangeable? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/

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