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#1. Z4: To boldly go where Bangle et al. have gone before... - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 18:10:07 -0500 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: Z4: To boldly go where Bangle et al. have gone before... Gruppe: Just got BMW's newest piece of spam about the Z4...I guess they weren't joking around with that X-coupe thing were they? Andrew Joseph ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Z4: To boldly go where Bangle et al. have gone - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 17:10:12 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Z4: To boldly go where Bangle et al. have gone before... > Gruppe: > > Just got BMW's newest piece of spam about the Z4...I guess they weren't > joking around with that X-coupe thing were they? I for one like the Z4, the new 5 series concepts I've seen, and the CS1. I'm not a huge fan of the Z4 front end, but I think it will end up looking really good to me. I never really liked the Z3 front end all that much, although it is somewhat classic looking. I still dislike the new 7. The trunk is growing on me, sides are ok, but the front will never look *good*.. too many mismatched pieces, odd angles, and funky placements. From the club boards I'm on, most seem to agree-- the new cars look good, except for the 7. - reid
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#3. Re: oil testing - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:17:32 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: oil testing Actually, Rich, youre still paying too much....I pay 15 bucks on an individual basis by buying the package in advance from avlubes....they deal with CTC at the address you gave, and its the CTC report I receive...All for 15 bucks. Check it out at avlube.com...How do I know the report and analysis comes from CTC? Cause I just did one a few months ago: "Oil Analysis Kit Description: Don't operate your engine blindly! Know the status of your engine by running regular oil analysis and eliminate the early engine killers like "dirt", anti-freeze, clogged injectors, or other problems that can go undetected until it is too late. Kit is complete with sterile bottle, record form and mailer/UPS. Your only additional cost is your shipping to the lab, everything is paid for. After you receive the results we will be available via e-mail to explain results or answer questions. 1 Pound $15.00" Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Cc: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 4:46 PM Subject: oil testing Paul says> > Are you saying you are paying 30 bucks for a single lab diagnosis? > Sheez...Im paying half that with AV lubes from Cleveland Tech, and I bet I > get as complete results as you do. You dont have to be paying that much, if > Im reading you right. I have checked out Cleveland Tech personally by stopping there and talking to them. They do lots of industrial work and appear to be very competent from what I have seen and heard. Actually, they are called CTC Analytical Services (18419 Euclid Ave, Cleveland, Ohio 44112 phone: (216) 383-8200) and they charge $18.40 per test or sell prepackaged ten packs for $150 ($15 each). I bought the prepaid 10 pack and plan to start to use them soon. They also do stuff for subcontractors that buy their kits, charge a markup and send it to CTC for their analysis. Later, Rich 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is
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#4. Timing of RSM replacement? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:40:43 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Timing of RSM replacement? >>Didn't someone recently mention that you could get at the mounts for replacement from inside the car, in the rear seat area<< I dont know if its that much easier, but, if you remove the rear seat side bolster, and perhaps the rear seat which hides the front part of the trunk liner, you can access the rsm by peeling back the side trunk liner from front to back, as well as from back to front. You have to take your time, and pull the liner out from under various plastic bits and pieces, but, even with the Stealthbox in place, I saw a mechanic peel back enough of the front of the liner so that he was able to lay a wrench on the rsm bolts and check for tightness....The down side is that access this way is restricted and, while it may suffice for a quick tightening, I doubt it would be sufficient if you needed to do a full rsm inspection and removal...Maybe someone has perfected the technique, but, unless all you need is a quick tightening, I would think youd be better off with the traditional method. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#5. AC Probs - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:37:10 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: AC Probs I'm recently having a problem wiht my aircon in the car. I'll be driving with the aircon on and all of a sudden it will stop then start again. Its almost like when you turn off/on the aircon. The fan is working but the air stops. Any Ideas? It always comes back, its just a bit annoying. re 99M3
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#6. Timing of RSM replacement? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:10:28 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Timing of RSM replacement? All this RMS talk couldnt come at a better time...I have an appt scheduled at the dealer in 2 wks, for them to remove, inspect, and replace if needed, in order to, hopefully, quiet the occasional clunk Ive been getting at the driver side rear shock tower ever since I had them install my new Dinan suspension back in January. The srvc vp heard a sample of the clunk as he rode with me last friday, and he wasnt very impressed..I had to tell him that Usually, its much louder, etc, etc. So I dont have tremendous confidence that they'll take this case serious enough to hunt down and fix whatever it is.. Which means there's an even chance that after the appointment, I'll be doing some further diagnosis on my own. Which brings me to something Ive read a few times in this active thread, and that is the reference Ive seen to cutting 3 sided flaps into the carpet over the RSM, to allow inspection, tightening, and removal without dissassembling the entire trunk. If anybody is about to do any shock work, could they please post to the list some measurement coordinates of where to locate the rsm under the carpet? I cant tell by pushing the carpet in and feeling so, perhaps a set of inch coordinates from a fixed point would allow us to cut away with impunity. Im interested in the driver side rsm at this point. Thanks much, if anybody is close to doing this. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. tire temp mystery - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:26:21 -0400 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: tire temp mystery I recently made some alignment changes in an attempt to help my track tires last longer, and borrowed an IR pyrometer to check tire temps at my last track day. After fiddling with pressures a bit, I obtained the following readings (temps are inner, middle, outer): LF:165,162,158 - RF:167,163,168 - LR:193,190,175 - RR:182,178,181. I understand that the process of taking tire temps has a lot of room for error, but I got similar results in 3 sesssions. So what's up with the LR tire? The other 3 tires look good in terms of even temp across the width, but the LR is super-hot on the inside. The camber is exactly the same on both rears. It was a CCW track so that might explain why the inside of the LR is hotter and indicates it needs less negative camber because of the track direction, but then why isn't the problem as bad on the LF? Is it because the rear is a driving wheel? But the LF has got to be getting about as much longitudinal stress under braking as the LR is under acceleration (if not more.) Although with the front there's not so much lateral stress *at the same time* as longitudinal (I do some trail-braking but not a lot.) What about slippage? The majority of turns are left-hand, and the left rear wheel is slipping more in those turns since there's less weight on it, and it's going more negative camber (so inner part of tire is bearing the brunt of the slipping)... but would the tire that's slipping more (LR) get hotter than a tire that's loaded more (RR)? My intuition says no. All the above assumes the suspension is working properly and it's an issue with needing different alignment settings for different tracks, which I could accept but would still like to be able to explain the hot inside edge of the LR. But could it be something else? Something *not* working right in the LR from a suspension/mechanical standpoint? Or, speaking of driving wheels, could it have something to do with the way the diff works (which I believe is limited slip on the 99 M3)? TIA, - Bill
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#8. Alternates for M3 diff WAS Re: [E36M3] WTB 98 M3 diff - from B Stoll
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:07:04 -0500 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: Alternates for M3 diff WAS Re: [E36M3] WTB 98 M3 diff Andrew, Is there another application that uses the same diff ?? Kind Regards, Bob Stoll 98 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 5:08 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB 98 M3 diff > Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 17:54:49 -0400 > From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB 98 M3 diff > > > > How do you "test" the breakaway torque on a differential? > > 1) Lock one side, to keep it from turning, in a manner of your choosing. 2) > attach torque wrench to other side...either through a plate you fabricate > and weld a nut to, or otherwise 3) increase the torque setting on your > torque wrench until you are able to turn the side of the diff you are > measuring without "clicking" the torque wrench. That's the torque at which > static breakaway occurs. It should be around 40 ft-lbs for a stocker. > > > > Here's an idea for you. Something to try at least. Replace your > > differential fluid with Redline 75W/90 NS gear oil. That is, > > gear oil NOT made for a limited slip differential. It won't have > > the friction modifiers in the oil. It should increase the "lock > > up". > > It's also the fast way to burn up, gall, pit, overheat and otherwise destroy > what's left of the friction materials that allow your diff to limit slip in > the first place. This will make rebuild come sooner, rather than buying you > more time. > > And it's noisy, too. > > Andrew > http://www.taylorautosport.com/
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#9. WG Exclusions List AND Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? - from B Stoll
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:28:28 -0500 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: WG Exclusions List AND Re: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? Steve, I am also approaching EOMW -End of Manufacturers Warranty. I tried to find the almighty Exclusions List on the Warranty Gold web site. I couldn't find it. If someone else here has it, I would appreciate a copy ! TIA. I looked into what my dealer offered by first talking to a sales person. After the spiel, I immediately went to the Serv. Dept., to talk to my buddy who is shop foreman. He knows I am a DIY'er, and replied "Why ? These cars are rarely in for anything serious..." (we were also looking at the exclusion list from Western Diversified, an Ext. Warr. company) I'll take a look at WG price & exclusion list and make my final answer. Kind Regards, Bob Stoll 98 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: <SWKAUF@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 7:27 PM Subject: [E36M3] Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:25:59 EDT > From: SWKAUF@aol.com > Subject: Warranty Gold Advice/Feedback? > > > Hi All, > > I am at the point of buying the diamond ( fairly complete) warranty from > Warranty Gold for my 98 M3. I have 27,500 miles and the factory warranty > runs out in August. They want $1665 for a 6 year/72,000 mile warranty. I > wonder if it is better to take my chances without a warranty. Also, I am > curious what experience other people have had with this company. There are > several companies that will not cover an M3 at all. Any thoughts or feedback > would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Steve > 98 M3/4 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#10. Fuel pumps? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 22:49:19 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Fuel pumps? Anyone ever install a new fuel pump? If so what was the reason? What was the process? Does anyone have trouble starting their cars in hot weather? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3