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#1. winshield replacement - from russell
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:08:52 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: winshield replacement > By the way, the only way you will have the BMW roundel on the > aftermarket glass is if it was bought from an authorized BMW dealer. > Otherwise, you can get the same glass made by the OE suppliers of BMW > but without the Roundel. i had mine replaced monday by safelite autoglass and it DOES have the bmw roundel. i didnt ask for it or anything; my insurer (nationwide) set everything up and thats what i got. russell dakar 99 ===== "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: Timing of RSM replacement? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 23:14:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Timing of RSM replacement? on 7/9/02 10:08 PM, "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Which brings me to something Ive read a few times in this active thread, and > that is the reference Ive seen to cutting 3 sided flaps into the carpet over > the RSM, to allow inspection, tightening, and removal without dissassembling > the entire trunk. > > If anybody is about to do any shock work, could they please post to the list > some measurement coordinates of where to locate the rsm under the carpet? I > cant tell by pushing the carpet in and feeling so, perhaps a set of inch > coordinates from a fixed point would allow us to cut away with impunity. Im > interested in the driver side rsm at this point. I cut these RSM access flaps several years ago. So I just went out to the garage and did some measurements. I don't claim this is the only possible, or even optimal, way to do it. But it works for me. The advantage is that you can quickly and easily cut the access flaps without removing the trunk liner. The RSM is located under the flat part of the trunk liner directly below the rear speaker housing. My flaps are long and thin, with the hinge toward the rear of the car. The flap itself is 4.5" long and 1.5" high. The front cut is in line with the forward wall of the speaker recess, i.e. roughly 5" behind the rear seat. The upper horizontal cut of the flap is 1" below the flat floor of the speaker recess. WARNING! Poor ASCII art follows, view with monospace font: _______________ <-- Parcel shelf / | | Speaker| / | |________| / | / | Recess / |___________ /<--5"-> ___________ 1" / |___________ <-- Flap 4.5" x 1.5" / / <-- Seat back I cut the flap with a razor knife. Under the liner is a separate layer of heavy rubber-like sound deadening material. I cut a full rectangular access window in that (with no flap). The outer flap can be massaged back to lie almost flush with the surrounding material. There's just enough room to get a compact ratchet handle with socket in there to use on the RSM nuts, or of course a regular wrench fits easily. Another option I might consider now if doing it for the first time would be to use a hole saw to cut a 3" diameter hole in the flat top of the liner immediately under the speaker. The E34 5 series uses a black plastic front strut tower cap of just that size which would cover the hole nicely. However due to tight access the hole would have to be made with the liner removed from the car. (I've used this approach on the hard plastic trunk liner in a friend's Z3 Coupé where it works perfectly, with no prior disassembly required.) Neil 96 M3
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#3. Ground Control Installation - from Jon S.
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:35:05 -0500 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: Ground Control Installation Gruppe- Anyone have any installation instructions for the GC Coil Over kit for the E36 M3? We're in the middle of putting it on and the front is stumping us a little bit. Is it necessary to modify the body of the strut tower (like on an E30)?? How does this work with a strut tower brace? Are longer bolts necessary? Any and all info is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jon
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#4. Re: Differential gear oils - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 02:08:39 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: Differential gear oils I wrote: > Here's an idea for you. Something to try at least. Replace your> > > differential fluid with Redline 75W/90 NS gear oil. That is, > > gear oil NOT made for a limited slip differential. It won't have > > the friction modifiers in the oil. It should increase the "lock > > up". > astaylor@taylorautosport.com writes: > It's also the fast way to burn up, gall, pit, overheat and otherwise destroy > what's left of the friction materials that allow your diff to limit slip in > the first place. This will make rebuild come sooner, rather than buying > you > more time. > > And it's noisy, too. I got the idea to use the non-limited slip differential gear oil from Redline Oil itself. Quoting their web site: <A HREF="http://redlineoil.com/redlineoil/gearolti.htm#75W90NS">75W90NS</A> - recommended for manual transmissions and non-limited-slip transaxles that recommend 90 WT oils. Can be used in racing limited-slip units to increase lockup and reduce wheel spin. Street-driven rear-wheel drive cars should use regular Red Line 75W90 or 80W140. I'm not sure what a "racing limited slip" differential is. Probably the stock BMW M3 diff doesn't qualify. I'm also guessing that the Redline Shockproof line of differential oils does NOT contain the friction modifiers. Their web site is mute on this subject. They are targeted towards racing applications. Jay said that his M3 didn't like Redline Shockproof in the differential. Too much noise? I guess I will have to try either the 75W90NS or Shockproof. I'll let everybody know my results. I figure it can't hurt. Any way you slice it, I am probably looking at a rebuilt differential. :( Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Timing of RSM replacement? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 22:42:38 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Timing of RSM replacement? ----- Original Message ----- >Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 23:14:19 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Re: Timing of RSM replacement? > >Another option I might consider now if doing it for the first time would be >to use a hole saw to cut a 3" diameter hole in the flat top of the liner >immediately under the speaker. The E34 5 series uses a black plastic front >strut tower cap of just that size which would cover the hole nicely. I used the hole saw like Neil suggested. Then I plugged the hole with center caps from the M3 wheels. So now I have a nice roundel to plug the hole, and it pops out for easy shock adjustment or removal. I did cut the hole when the liner was removed from the trunk. Chris 97 M3/4
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#6. 95 vs. 96+exh manifold - from Craig Perrin
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:44:23 -0400 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: 95 vs. 96+exh manifold Jeff, The information I have is, yes, the 96+ exhaust manifold flows better than the 95. It certainly looks better designed and constructed. In fact, I've purchased a used 96+ from Turner, already modified to bypass OBDII, to be installed in my 95 later this month. Combined with my current modifications, it should yield a small increase in mid-range to high-end power. Craig Perrin > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 17:47:04 EDT > From: RacerxJLing@aol.com > Subject: 95 vs. 96+exh manifold > > I believe I heard that the 96+ M3's manifold flows better than the 95...true? > > I am thinking of doing a 3.2 96+ motor & exhaust manifold on my 95. > > Also heard the OBDI works well w/ the 3.2 motor. > > Open to thoughts/opinions on this conversion. > > Thanks > > Jeff
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#7. Diff Fluid - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:25:59 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Diff Fluid My diff was pretty unhappy with Redline Shockproof. (klingon blood) I switched to Mobil 1 Gear Oil and the diff is MUCH happier! hey, look Ma! LSD action! Between that and the new S-03s, I have a BUNCH more grip in the rear, which is good most of the time, but bad for smoky one lane u-Turns that chicks dig so much. ;) -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Differential gear oils - from Jeff A
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:11:17 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Differential gear oils Lowell, One twist. . . you can use the NS stuff from Redline. Then add just_the_right_amount of friction modifier to eliminate noise. Presumably this will be less than the amount of modifier in the 75W90 oil, so you'll get better locking properties. My understanding is that the 'regular' 75W90 stuff is really just the NS with a predetermined amount of FM thrown in. Jeff > I wrote: > > > Here's an idea for you. Something to try at least. Replace your> > > > differential fluid with Redline 75W/90 NS gear oil. That is, > > > gear oil NOT made for a limited slip differential. It won't have > > > the friction modifiers in the oil. It should increase the "lock > > > up". > > > astaylor@taylorautosport.com writes: > > > It's also the fast way to burn up, gall, pit, overheat and otherwise destroy > > what's left of the friction materials that allow your diff to limit slip in > > the first place. This will make rebuild come sooner, rather than buying > > you > > more time. > > > > And it's noisy, too. > > I got the idea to use the non-limited slip differential gear oil from Redline > Oil itself. Quoting their web site: > > <A HREF="http://redlineoil.com/redlineoil/gearolti.htm#75W90NS">75W90NS</A> - recommended for manual transmissions and non-limited-slip > transaxles that recommend 90 WT oils. Can be used in racing limited-slip > units to increase lockup and reduce wheel spin. Street-driven rear-wheel > drive cars should use regular Red Line 75W90 or 80W140. > > I'm not sure what a "racing limited slip" differential is. Probably the > stock BMW M3 diff doesn't qualify. > > I'm also guessing that the Redline Shockproof line of differential oils does > NOT contain the friction modifiers. Their web site is mute on this subject. > They are targeted towards racing applications. Jay said that his M3 didn't > like Redline Shockproof in the differential. Too much noise? > > I guess I will have to try either the 75W90NS or Shockproof. I'll let > everybody know my results. I figure it can't hurt. Any way you slice it, I > am probably looking at a rebuilt differential. :( > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3/2 > Dallas, Texas > BMW CCA #131505
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#9. RE: [E36M3] [CEL] Camshaft Position Sensor - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:27:33 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] [CEL] Camshaft Position Sensor Tom, The Crankshaft position sensor was replaced under warranty on my '97 last May under: General Recalls TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 121099 MAR 99 Campaign - Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced Check this link for recall info for your '96 http://www.alldata.com/TSB/06/96067237.html Mel former wrench turned computer systems geek -----Original Message----- From: tom eby [mailto:thomaseby@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 1:09 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] [CEL] Camshaft Position Sensor Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 11:01:56 -0700 From: "tom eby" <thomaseby@hotmail.com> Subject: [CEL] Camshaft Position Sensor I threw a Check Engine Light over the long weekend: Pulled the code and says it's the "Camshaft Position Sensor _Circuit_." Anyone have experience with this failure? I've searched the archives and found lot's of info on the "Crankshaft" Service Bulletin, but hardly anything on the Camshaft position circuit. I'm wondering if simply replacing the sensor will solve the issue, or is the nomenclature "circuit" mean that there's greater gremlins at work than simply the sensor (A la, "Brake Sensor" and "Brake Sensor Circuit") Comments and suggestions greatly appreciated! TIA, tom eby 74 02 96 M3 -- _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Re: tire temp mystery - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 15:46:37 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: tire temp mystery I've seen similar results using an IR temp probe on my tires. Why is the inside of the LR tire so hot? What's next to it? The hot muffler! That's my only explanation. Your outside tires will be hotter, and with a CCW track, explains why your right-side tires have higher temps. -rb >Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:26:21 -0400 >From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> >Subject: tire temp mystery > >I recently made some alignment changes in an attempt to help my track tires >last longer, and borrowed an IR pyrometer to check tire temps at my last >track day. After fiddling with pressures a bit, I obtained the following >readings (temps are inner, middle, outer): LF:165,162,158 - RF:167,163,168 >- >LR:193,190,175 - RR:182,178,181. > >I understand that the process of taking tire temps has a lot of room for >error, but I got similar results in 3 sesssions. So what's up with the LR >tire? <snip> _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com