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#1. RE: [E36M3] SS brake lines - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 08:47:59 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SS brake lines Thanks guys, for your help. I'm off to the store to buy some new tools Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#2. Re: SS brake lines - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:02:18 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: SS brake lines on 7/16/02 7:36 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > I'm going to be replacing my brake lines with SS ones. Does anyone know > offhand what size flare wrench I will need to remove the stock Lines? > > Looks like a pretty easy job. Any other guidance would be appreciated. Use a top quality penetrating oil (Würth, PB Blaster, Kroil) on all brake line unions. The fittings are very soft. If one is hard to undo and starts rounding off, use an adjustable wrench instead, since you can set it for zero play. Neil 96 M3
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#3. RSM Investigation - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:19:49 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: RSM Investigation I finally found the problem! I couldnt take the noise anymore, and didnt want to wait til Monday's dealer appointment, because Ive got some driving to do between now and then. So I took a 'mental health' day from work, and went in there myself to have a look. Other than breaking the bracket that holds my cd player by letting it twist, as I had to move it in order to drop my JL Audio Steatlhbox, I got the trunk apart and the speaker dropped with no problem. When I looked at the rsm, at first all looked fine, as all bolts were tight...I said to myself, Id better look harder, because I was convinced that this is where the noise was coming from...I decided to take off the 2 rsm bolts, and when I did, there before me was a thin tear in the surface of the sheet metal next to the rearmost rsm bolt! I had heard about this happening before to other guys, but mine was very small, and if you didnt look closely, you missed it, which is exactly what the moron dealer did back in February when they simply retorqued the bolts in response to my complaint. Luckily, I had anticipated something like this, and even though I didnt have the Z3 reinforcement plate, I did have 2 washers with me that just fit over the rsm studs nicely to spread the load....I buttoned everything back up, and went for the test drive. Lo and behold, the noise was gone! Vanished...Completely... I consider this a temporary fix, however...I just called my Dealer parts man, and he said theyve handled maybe a half dozen cases like this, except they were more serious...They wound up sending most of those to the body shop for some welding. In my case, he made sure Hes got a couple of Z3 reinforcment plates on hand for my appointment, as well as another reinforcement piece for the M3 which I believe is to be welded in...Upon examination, they will make a determination of how best to fix, and then hopefully, this episode which has been bugging me since February will be done with! I'll try and get them to do the otherside under warranty too...If they dont, I see now that its not hard to do myself... As a side note, Im a little surprised this happened to me..I never track the car, and have only done a few autocrosses. As far as suspensions go, the Dinan setup is far from the most stressful, and the car is only a '99 with 43K relatively easy miles on it. With my 11 psi boost, I think Ive probably stressed the engine more than I have the suspension. If it could happen to me, it could happen to anyone, believe me! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: Harness Installation (was rollbar) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:30:37 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Harness Installation (was rollbar) on 7/16/02 7:36 PM, "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> wrote: > for the sub-strap, they did a lot of work cutting through the various layers > of metal where the slot for the movable section is and tied the strap around > the metal brace that is part of the seat right under there. I lost the > movement of the forward section but I never moved it anyway so I don't mind. Faced with the same problem I opted to use a double sub strap (i.e. 6 point harness) and pass one strap either side of the metal slider mechanism. Like Wayne I don't ever use the thigh support slider, but this way I didn't have to cut any metal, just make slots in the plastic seat pan. (You can pass a single strap to one side of the slider, but that way it pulls off-centre, which I find uncomfortable.) With the thigh support fully retracted the slit I had to make in the leather flap is completely hidden. My sub straps pass around the same bar to which Wayne's mount and go to the back of the seat. There they clip to eyes bolted through a flat bar that bridges the rear seat rail mounting bolts. I happened to have bought these harness mounting bars for a previous project, but they would be easy enough to have made. They consist of roughly 3/16" thick by 2" wide steel bar long enough to be sandwiched at either end between the rails and the floor mount. Although it's somewhat awkward to do - because the 3-bar length adjusters won't pass through the seat slots and have to be disassembled - this does allow removing the sub straps entirely. In my case this was a pre-requisite for ongoing marital harmony. Some challenges are technical in nature, others social... Just some more ideas for anyone else considering a 5-6 point harness installation. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RSM Investigation - from Jimenez, Ariel
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:32:43 -0500 From: "Jimenez, Ariel" <ariel@megapathdsl.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RSM Investigation Paul, Just curious, but could this problem have been created by the dealership when they installed your Dinan suspension. I seem to recall that you didn't notice this noise until after the installation of the suspension. Ariel 99 Titanium M3 > As a side note, Im a little surprised this happened to me..I never track the > car, and have only done a few autocrosses. As far as suspensions go, the > Dinan setup is far from the most stressful, and the car is only a '99 with > 43K relatively easy miles on it.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RSM Investigation - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:01:36 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RSM Investigation >>Just curious, but could this problem have been created by the dealership when they installed your Dinan suspension. I seem to recall that you didn't notice this noise until after the installation of the suspension.<< Sure, it is possible..Its also possible that the stress crack had started before, with the stock suspension, and becames exacerbated by the Dinan suspension. I wouldnt say that it was 'caused by the dealership' though...They simply installed the Dinan parts consisting of a Koni shock and some springs. I dont know why these rsms dont come with washers under the bolts though...At a minimum, it would spread the load on those two points, which admittedly take a lot of stress. The fact that the application of the washer now, over the crack, has silenced things is an indication of that..Perhaps if washers were used initially, the crack would have never developed. More power to the Z3 reinforcement plates. I dont even know if welding is required..Judging by the short term success of just the washer, the much sturdier reinforcement plate might easily be enough to serve as a permanent fix, without the welding..Or, perhaps both are the best answer..I'll leave that for them. My point was that Dinan suspensions, while more stressful than stock are much softer still, than some suspensions guys are using. That, combined with the lack of track miles, was the reason for my surprise. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jimenez, Ariel" <ariel@megapathdsl.net> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 12:32 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] RSM Investigation > Paul, > > Just curious, but could this problem have been created by the dealership > when they installed your Dinan suspension. I seem to recall that you didn't > notice this noise until after the installation of the suspension. > > Ariel > 99 Titanium M3 > > > As a side note, Im a little surprised this happened to me..I never track > the > > car, and have only done a few autocrosses. As far as suspensions go, the > > Dinan setup is far from the most stressful, and the car is only a '99 with > > 43K relatively easy miles on it. > >
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#7. Re: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:23:39 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? Johnny, I just put one of these together a couple of weeks ago (thanks Ron S!). I just used the spring clips that radio shack carries, they worked fine. In fact they came in a 4 pack, so if you are in the bay area you are welcome to one of mine. jeff > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 00:27:10 -0400 > From: Johnny Lee <mclee@ieee.org> > Subject: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? > > > I am trying to make the service light reset tool (Ron Stygar's style) and I > have all the parts except the Mueller Alligator Clip and insulation sleeve. > Radio Shack doesn't have it and sellers on the internet only sell them in > bulk. Does anyone know if they carry it in Pep Boys or Trak Auto? Maybe > Home Depot? Will a Radio Shack alligator clip do it? Although the Mueller > clip seem much better. > > TIA, > > -Johnny > > mailto:mclee@ieee.org >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? - from Jason Jensen
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:27:21 -0400 From: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? My 2 bits.. I used a speaker wire w/ the shielding stripped on both sides and stuck the ends in #19 and #7. So to answer your question...Anything that will conduct electricity will work. Not as elegant of course, but who's counting? :) Jason > > > Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 00:27:10 -0400 > > From: Johnny Lee <mclee@ieee.org> > > Subject: Place to buy Mueller Alligator Clip? > > > > > > I am trying to make the service light reset tool (Ron Stygar's style) >and >I > > have all the parts except the Mueller Alligator Clip and insulation >sleeve. > > Radio Shack doesn't have it and sellers on the internet only sell them >in > > bulk. Does anyone know if they carry it in Pep Boys or Trak Auto? Maybe > > Home Depot? Will a Radio Shack alligator clip do it? Although the >Mueller > > clip seem much better. > > > > TIA, > > > > -Johnny > > > > mailto:mclee@ieee.org > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#9. Re: TENSIONER - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:20:26 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: TENSIONER Thanks for the feedback, Tim. Given the constant of the spring in there, I'm suprised its not what provides the tension. However, the tensioner on my ZX-9 (which does use the spring) has a ratchet mechanism for the foot to keep tension as the chain wears. The piece looked damned simple in design. What is it about it that fails? I can't wait to replace it to see just how much of that awful noise goes away. Thanks again, Steve On Tuesday, July 16, 2002, at 07:56 PM, tim robinson wrote: > Steve, > everything you stated sounds absolutely correct. Just done mine in > my 95 > model and it looked exactly as yours did. The shiny spot is just were > the > tensioner comes in contact with the guide rail and is no problem. When > you > install a new one you need to make sure the two tabs on the tenssioner > goes > in the rail correctly. They need to be on the sides of the rail(one on > the > left one on the right when looking down on it) when installing it. As > far as > the spring goes it doesn't actually do the tensioning. Oil pressure > pushes > out the inner parts of the tensioner for the tensioning. > This really made mine quite again! > Hope this helps, > Tim Robinson >
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#10. OT - SS installation tools - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:30:03 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: OT - SS installation tools I am looking to borrow the following tools for the installation of new shifter parts - circlip removal/install tool, guide pin install tool, and a from-below nylon cup removal tool. Any body in the greater PSR available to loan all or some of these tools? Kim L Burgess 99M3/2