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#1. $65 tires - from Reid Conti
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 23:48:30 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: $65 tires Howdy.. I'll be needing tires in 3 or so months, and I needed something cheap.. just perusing tire rack's web page, $65 for Yokohama AVS Intermediates in 95 M3 sizes (235)!!! Now is not the time to tell me your AVS Intermediate horror stories, I'm just happy to have 4 new tires at my door for under $300! they're on closeout, so hurry if you want some.. sorry if this has been posted before (sounds kinda similar, but it may have been for a different tire..) also sorry to the inevitable guy who can't order for 1 week, where my email message will cause an out-of-stock situation in less than a week.. but I'm striving to benefit the e36m3 list population as a whole.. - reid
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#2. Re: Special Tools? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:17:07 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Special Tools? on 7/19/02 12:36 AM, "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> wrote: >> Colin wrote: >> :For special tools: >> :16 mm thin Cone wrench for sway bar endlinks > Now, Colin mentioned this "cone wrench" thingy and it triggered a > suppressed memory about needing that for something. Where does one find a > cone wrench? Is it necessary, or an added convenience? How long is it > going to take to find one? Well Colin says what it's for. The 16mm cone wrench is found at bicycle shops, and is made out of stamped steel plate. It's therefore easily thin enough to use on the hidden flats of the swaybar link studs to stop them turning as you remove or replace the nuts. However a better option is a regular wrench that happens to be thin enough. One such is a Craftsman Professional series wrench. These are those nicer looking fully polished wrenches sold at Sears. The 16mm is just thin enough to fit behind the link mounting tab on the strut. The regular Craftsman wrench won't fit. (This is a better solution because the wrench is actually useful for other general stuff, unlike the cone wrench.) Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] : Need a 8.5" x 17" wheel for spare - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:09:42 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] : Need a 8.5" x 17" wheel for spare >Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 20:29:46 -0400 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: : Need a 8.5" x 17" wheel for spare > >>>Dave, ya know your trunk mat will not lay in there the way it should with >an >8.5" spare, right<< > >Uh Oh...Im running 4 x 8.5" fikses with 245 tires all around...I have my >current spare as one of my 7.5" contour knockoffs with 225 Pirelli winter >tire...When I do the winter changeover, one of the 8.5" Fikses is going to >have to serve spare duty....It didnt look to me like it was going to push >the trunk flooring up much, if at all...But can you tell me, how much is >this going disrupt the trunk flooring? > >I use my trunk fully, and it will be a hassle for me..Maybe, if its bad, >I'll have to buy something real cheap in a 7.5" size to use for the spare. > >Paul Elliott Works just fine for me. I've got 8.5's all around with a snow tire spare most of the year. Then 4 snows and an 8.5 spare. It's really no trouble. All fits just fine. Using BMW M3 forged alloys. George -- ====== __ __ George R Carr Jr / / / / | / | ______ 98M3/4 BL/SS / / / / |/ | o/______\o BMWCCA 156632 JTD/ / / / shark | (**=00=**) georgercarrjr@earthlink.net/ / / /__/|__/|__| []*-XX-*[] also 00MRoadster (Sharkster)
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#4. Koni Top Nut - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:34:06 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Koni Top Nut Hi all, Since we're all talking about Koni shocks, I figured I would throw another question into the mix. About two months ago I installed Koni SA on the car with stock springs. I thought the install was fine and used the ground down 22mm socket, etc. One thing I noticed was that Koni did not provide Nylock nuts for the tops of the front struts, as the factory did. Instead there is a regular nut and a lock washer. On my car, the front passenger side strut nut has worked it's way loose four times now. The drivers side has held fast with no problem. I have not done anything different on the two sides. So now it is clunking again and I am pretty pissed that I have to take the thing apart again to tighten it. My question is, can I just use the old Nylock nut that came off the stock part, or are these single-use? If not, does anybody know the spec on this nut so I can buy one new this weekend. I'm really tired of tightening the one that's on the car. Thanks, Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325i #335 KP This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#5. [CEL] CAM shaft position sensor - from tom eby
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:50:39 -0700 From: "tom eby" <thomaseby@hotmail.com> Subject: [CEL] CAM shaft position sensor For the archives: I had a Check Engine Light go on about 2 weeks for the "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction." This sensor, different from the CRANKshaft sensor, is 12-14-1-703-221, lists at $96 and retails at Pacific BMW for $65. Ask for it _not_ by name but by part number. Chances are you'll get the correct sensor the first time, which is what I was hoping to avoid by explicitly stating to the parts counter that I did not want the crankshaft sensor --Wrong. Anyhow, Pacific BMW has great customer service and credit'd me for the incorrect sensor and ship'd out the correct sensor the morning I called. Once here, the part installs in 15 mins. 5 if you've got slick low-profile tools. HTH, tom eby 96 M3 74 02 -- _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#6. OFest Autocross update - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:05:52 -0400 From: "Steve Hazard" <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: OFest Autocross update I just received this from Cliff Lawson. He organized & ran TY's Autocross at OFest... I sure wish I could have ran with those dogs this year! To: Steve Hazard Subject: Re: Autocross Results? In a message dated 7/18/02 9:14:05, SHazard@nhboston.com writes: >So how did it go? Fantastic. I recruited my SCCA/BMWCCA experts along with our SCCA T&S chief and ended up with a team that knew exactly what to do, when to do it, and the best way to do it. A fellow named Kevin Youngers just joined the club after purchasing a '95 540 sport. Kevin has designed several national-level courses and I gave him the challenge of putting together a course that was fun and easy for the novices and yet had enough challenge for a T.C. Kline, Tunnell and Wiles. He did that--on a very small lot. Seems like everyone liked the course. >How many runs, etc Because the small lot required three laps to make a run, we could only use an interval of about 40+ seconds. This, unfortunately, limited runs in the larger groups to three. We gave smaller groups more runs, but told them beforehand that only the first three would count. I think the smallest group got 6 runs, but Class 5A,B,C only got 3. No complaints, however. They under stood the limitations. Had we been able to have a larger lot with multiple cars on course, we could have run our normal 20-30 second interval and had more runs. > >What happened between Russ & Bob T ? Now THIS was exciting! Let's start with Monday afternoon. With the 3A/B/C cars running in the low 40's for the good times, T.C. Kline, in his silver Z3 2.8 comes out and lays down a 37.671, 37.004, and a 37.112. As the saying goes, "The crowd went wild." T. C. wins the class, of course, and is hoping for the FTD, or should I say FTE (Fast Time of the Event)? Tuesday morning, we have all the M cars. Tunnell , Wiles, (both in 5B) and a guy most people have never heard of, Bill Lamkin. Bill is a local SCCA guy who just bought a new M Roadster (Class 5A) and had it prepared by Bob Tunnell's shop to race in ASP in SCCA. Bill is talented and has really got the car dialed in. First run, Russ goes out and runs a 37.785, the crowd cheers, as most of the runs before this are in the low 40's, maybe a 40.4 being the best. Tunnell smacks down a 36.873!--but with a cone. Second run, Russ Wiles, 37.388--Tunnell, 37.196 So at this point, Bob is in the lead in 5B, but T.C. still has the fastest time. Third run. Russ gets a 37.372. The announcer indicates that Bob's time on his second run will win the class, but he still has not beaten T.C.'s 37.004. Bob runs a 36.904 clean. Man, it was great. Russ ran over to Bob's car, shakes hands and the two talked privately for a few minutes as we all left them alone. Then the crowd circled, clapped, cheered...you get it. Bill Lamkin in 5A came within a whisker of getting the fastest time in his roadster with a best run of 37.098. Faster than all of Russ's runs, than two of BT's runs and two of T.C.'s runs. Watch this guy. He was also our announcer--and he is really good at that, too. Weather was great all day both days, drivers were cooperative, listened to instructions, work assignments carried out with no issues--just a great event. I won't do it again! Ya shudda been there. Cliff
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#7. Painted my stock M3 wheels - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:07:21 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Painted my stock M3 wheels Chuck says > > Wanted to change the look of my car a tad, so i painted the center's of my stock M3 wheels... > http://www.brazeauracing.com/diary/2002wheels.htm My personal opinion, it looks pretty good. I also like the look of the buttery-soft 95 M3 wheels (not as much as the forged and polished double spokes mind you). The price appears to be right too :-) Your right, they do remind me of the SSR Comps. I think these wheels would look particularly good on a black or silver coupe. Later, Rich
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#8. Inspection I - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:13:07 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Inspection I Jay asked: My '99 with a meager 35k miles on it is due for service. I believe it is to receive an inspection I. What all does this cover? Are there any other services/checks I should be asking for at the same time? In the two years I've had the car it has been almost problem free <snip> That's how these cars should be - 'problem free'. Just had an Inspection II done and the shop that did the work for me (I'll be doin' em in the future) also recommended Brake Fluid flush, Coolant flush, and Water Pump replacement. I own a 99M3/2, with at the time of the I-II 38K, so this fall I'll freshen' the coolant and the brake stuff as winter prep. I'll have to admit I was a bit confused about the concern surrounding the WP, as I thought the troublesome pumps were found in the pre-96 editions. Kim L Burgess 99M3/2
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Koni Top Nut - from melsilva@mindspring.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:46:28 -0400 From: <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni Top Nut Well, if it came on the car as a stock piece shouldn't one be able to get a new nyloc nut at the local dealer? On Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:43:43 -0500 shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:34:06 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Koni Top Nut Hi all, Since we're all talking about Koni shocks, I figured I would throw another question into the mix. About two months ago I installed Koni SA on the car with stock springs. I thought the install was fine and used the ground down 22mm socket, etc. One thing I noticed was that Koni did not provide Nylock nuts for the tops of the front struts, as the factory did. Instead there is a regular nut and a lock washer. On my car, the front passenger side strut nut has worked it's way loose four times now. The drivers side has held fast with no problem. I have not done anything different on the two sides. So now it is clunking again and I am pretty pissed that I have to take the thing apart again to tighten it. My question is, can I just use the old Nylock nut that came off the stock part, or are these single-use? If not, does anybody know the spec on this nut so I can buy one new this weekend. I'm really tired of tightening the one that's on the car. Thanks, Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325i #335 KP This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Koni Settings - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:49:07 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: Koni Settings Paul, I disagree the shock adjustment should match front to rear. Perhaps Dinan sets them up this way to ensure a big safe push in the = handling, but I don't think this is optimal. My own experience = convinced me that the rears need to be stiffer than the front. = Furthermore, Bob T told me the same. For me, a good rule of thumb is, = however stiff you like the front suspension, make the rears at a half = turn stiffer. Rationale: the stiffer you make the front (to reduce = body roll), the more the car will understeer. The rears need to be = stiffer relative to the front in order to counteract this. YMMV, of = course, but this is what works for me. Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEX DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698 -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:15:59 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Koni Shock setting (Dinan specific) >>Did anyone know the front and rear setting recommendation for Koni? = Since they're probably specific to springs, how does Dinan set them, since = I'm thinking Dinan springs<< When I got mine in January, if I recall correctly, they came either at = 1 full turn, or 1.5 full turns from full soft. I believe thats how Dinan matches them up to the springs...remember, this adjustment only effects rebound...Compression is factory set and not adjustable on these...I = havent checked, but the rear adjustment should match the front. To adjust the fronts, you need to use a pair of needle nose pliers cause I think = youll find that the little plastic knob adjuster they give you wont fit as = the piece you need to grab onto will be too close to the side of the = opening in the shock tower. The rear shocks need to be removed in order to be adjusted. Paul Elliott
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#11. Beaver Run Motorsports Complex - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:49:06 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Beaver Run Motorsports Complex Hello everyone, I had the opportunity to run a few hundred laps Wednesday and Thursday at the brand new Beaver Run North track outside Pittsburgh. The overall facility is still rough (entrance road isn't fully paved, no water or electricity, porta-johns only, etc.) and the track doesn't have curbing or tire walls yet, but the North track is basically completed. The track is very fast and very fun, is 1.53 miles long with 12 turns. There is a slower tighter section (turns 1-7) and a wide-open section (8-12). The tighter section is still quite fast, in my E36M3 I never got out of the powerband in 3rd and the wide-open section is extremely fast (I was topping out 4th in two sections). The surface is fantastic, seems to be very easy on tires. The track is hard on brakes, as you have two 125+mph sections (into 1 and into 10) where you have to threshold brake and go into a 3rd gear section. There are two other minor braking zones (into 4 and into 5), and in the heat of summer it all adds up to a track that is hard on brakes. Overall, it is a horsepower track, not particularly technical, but the tighter section still requires a good line to go full throttle. Most BMW's will do well there because of the need for good brakes and a few very key transition areas (1-2 and 5-6-7). I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a new challenge. I have no officially affiliation with the track, just a Pittsburgh track junkie happy to have local track option other than Nelson. Vern Anderson