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#1. Cabin Silencing Tip - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:03:42 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: Cabin Silencing Tip Gruppe, Do y'all go nuts at squeaks and rattles inside the car, or is it just = me? Well, the leather interior of my beloved 95 M5 emits = squeaking/crackling sounds when driving because interfering surfaces rub = against one another. The worst offender is the center arm rest. When = you sit in the driver's seat, the side bolster flexes and pushes against = the leather of the armrest and then squeaks with every bump in the road. = I used to counteract this with talcum powder, which would "lubricate" = the surfaces and render them silent. But it was only temporary. Well, I think I've finally found a permanent fix. I always wished BMW = would have recognized this and made the SIDES of the leather surfaces = with suede finish instead of smooth leather--which would have eliminated = the problem. But I thought maybe I could duplicate the effect myself = somehow if I could insert something between the offending surfaces. = Something like, . . . oh I don't know . . . maybe FELT perhaps. Being = an old bowhunter, I saw the light like a fooking flare one day. I went = to my friendly archery dealer and bought some adhesive felt (used to = silence bow risers beneath arrow rests.) This black felt is adhesive on = one side and can be trimmed with scissors to fit. I applied it on the = sides of my arm rest last night, and lo and behold, the car is "almost" = quiet as a tomb inside. Bingo. But I did say "almost." I still get an = occasional noise from my fold-down REAR seats. I intend to attack that = area next to see if I can complete the job! Give it a try! Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEX DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#2. Koni Top Nut - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:21:48 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Koni Top Nut Shane asks > > My question is, can I just use the old Nylock > nut that came off the stock part, or are these single-use? If not, does > anybody know the spec on this nut so I can buy one new this weekend. I'm > really tired of tightening the one that's on the car. Single-use, technically yes, but most people will reuse them and they will likely be just fine. From your example, they sound like they would be better than fine, they would be better than a continually loosening nut. If you have the ETK or a willing dealer, you could find the part number and buy new nuts. Trust me, they are cheap compared to the aggravation you are experiencing. Another option is the blue loc-tite on either nut (the old Nylock nut or the new Koni nut with the washer). Boy, I would have expected a guy who just put together a race car to have overcome such a minor annoyance. ATTENTION all club racers, stay away from Shane's car...all sorts of things will likely start falling off at any moment!! :-) Later, Rich - BTW, I believe the part number for the nuts is 31 33 1 092 887 (self-locking collar nut in size M8). You will need six.
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#3. Re: Koni Top Nut - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:38:38 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Koni Top Nut Rich, I think you have misunderstood. The nut I am having a problem with is the nut that holds the strut/spring/strut bearing assembly all together. I assume this since you said six, and there are only two. I have not tried to put the old nylock on because I was not sure of whether they are the same thread/pitch and did not want to bugger up the threads on the $$Koni$$. And my race car gets a thorough nut-tightening before every event. The stiff suspension shakes quite a few things loose. Most of these get loctite before retightening since I am growing tired of that routine as well. Now I know why all the racer catalogues sell safety wire. And the reason I don't want to deal with a dealer on this one is that a) Hendrick won't have one in stock, pretty much guaranteed, and b) I want to fix it tonight, it's driving me crazy. Thanks! Shane Shane asks > > My question is, can I just use the old Nylock > nut that came off the stock part, or are these single-use? If not, does > anybody know the spec on this nut so I can buy one new this weekend. I'm > really tired of tightening the one that's on the car. Single-use, technically yes, but most people will reuse them and they will likely be just fine. From your example, they sound like they would be better than fine, they would be better than a continually loosening nut. If you have the ETK or a willing dealer, you could find the part number and buy new nuts. Trust me, they are cheap compared to the aggravation you are experiencing. Another option is the blue loc-tite on either nut (the old Nylock nut or the new Koni nut with the washer). Boy, I would have expected a guy who just put together a race car to have overcome such a minor annoyance. ATTENTION all club racers, stay away from Shane's car...all sorts of things will likely start falling off at any moment!! :-) Later, Rich - BTW, I believe the part number for the nuts is 31 33 1 092 887 (self-locking collar nut in size M8). You will need six. Shane A. Kleinpeter Accenture - Products Travel & Transportation Services Suite 800 900 West Trade Street Charlotte, NC 28202 Voice Mail (704) 370-5216 Mobile (704) 906-7965 e-mail: Shane.A.Kleinpeter@Accenture.com This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] $65 tires - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:10:24 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] $65 tires Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > > Howdy.. I'll be needing tires in 3 or so months, and I needed > something cheap.. just perusing tire rack's web page, $65 for > Yokohama AVS Intermediates in 95 M3 sizes (235)!!! Now is not > the time to tell me your AVS Intermediate horror stories, I'm > just happy to have 4 new tires at my door for under $300! > > they're on closeout, so hurry if you want some.. I've also ordered a set of these to support my wife's fledging DE/autoX hobby (I'm on R tires). After 1/2 a season of destroying Michelin Pilot Sports, a second set of tires for her was long overdue. Along came the AVSi close-out deal and it was too good to pass up. I've had AVSi's on my daily driver E30 a long time ago when I used to autoX that car. I liked them in the 195/60-14 trim, but than the performance tire options in the size are very limited. Given the impossible to resist $65/per price, I was looking forward to trying them again in the 235/40/17 size. A week after installing AVSi's and giving her car a few workouts (bone stock E36 328i with my old M3 wheels) I have to say they are definitely a fantastic bargain. Yes, the tread patter is kinda dated not too sexy looking. Than again when was the last time anyone other than a guy salivated over your tire tread pattern? I've even heard a few friends saying that the AVSi 'technology' is 'old'. I can not comment on that since I don't know much about technology. From my old E30 experiences, when over 1/2 worn the tread does a mediocre job evacuating standing water from under the tire. So I would probably not recommend AVSi's as a jack of all trades one and only tire. But as an autoX/DE/dry street tire they are perfect. They stick somewhere around 8/10s of the Pilots/SO3's and maybe a notch down from old MXX3's. Definitely stickier than 712s that were my other sacrificial goat option. In all fairness, AVSi may even get better since they have less than 100 miles on them right now and are not broken in yet. Compared with the Pilots, AVSi's generate a higher frequency noise when pushed to the limit. But for 1/3 the price of regular kick-ass street rubber, these are very reasonable sacrifices. In my previous E30 experience they lasted 15-18K miles including 1-2 DEs and a full autoX season. Pretty much the wear rate you would get from any other grippy rubber. Oh, but did I mention the are just $65/tire!? ;-) YMMV, alex f '95 - my toy '98 328i - her toy '89 325i - our work horse
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#5. Re: Koni Top Nut - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:17:05 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni Top Nut on 7/19/02 11:03 AM, shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > My question is, can I just use the old Nylock > nut that came off the stock part Sure you can. In fact that's what I do. > are these single-use? No, although with repeated removals nylon insert nuts eventually don't grip fully any more. Of course that's easy to feel if they turn too easily by hand. This size may not be easy to find at your friendly Ace Hardware store, but you can always order them through your local dealer if necessary. Neil 96 M3
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#6. RE: Koni Top Nut - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:16:35 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Koni Top Nut Shane says > > I think you have misunderstood. The nut I am having a problem with is the > nut that holds the strut/spring/strut bearing assembly all together. I > assume this since you said six, and there are only two. (a lot snipped) I considered this as a possibility when you first posted your question. In that case the part number is 31 32 1 139 422. There are two self locking hex nuts for the strut assemblies, one for each assembly, and they are M14 x 1.5 :-) I have no idea what thread the Koni ones are but it seems like it would be easy to figure out with a tap and die set or by trying them on the opposite applications. > And the reason I don't want to deal with a dealer on this one is that a) > Hendrick won't have one in stock, pretty much guaranteed, and b) I want to > fix it tonight, it's driving me crazy. Fair enough and I agree, local dealers parts department usually don't have what I want without ordering it. This also drives the dealer mechanics crazy too. I repeat what I said the first time then, go for the loc-tite and zap it pretty good with the impact (the spring will help absorb too hard of a blow). Later, Rich -----Original Message------- Shane asks > > My question is, can I just use the old Nylock > nut that came off the stock part, or are these single-use? If not, does > anybody know the spec on this nut so I can buy one new this weekend. I'm > really tired of tightening the one that's on the car. Single-use, technically yes, but most people will reuse them and they will likely be just fine. From your example, they sound like they would be better than fine, they would be better than a continually loosening nut. If you have the ETK or a willing dealer, you could find the part number and buy new nuts. Trust me, they are cheap compared to the aggravation you are experiencing. Another option is the blue loc-tite on either nut (the old Nylock nut or the new Koni nut with the washer).
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#7. Tire wear question - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:20:51 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: Tire wear question I am on the last legs of a set of Kumho 712s and I don't think I can wait for their new MXs. I want something a bit stickier than the 712s for the next set. So, the alternatives (for me) are the Bridgestone S-03s and the Yokohama AVS Sports. I've had the AVS Sports before and they lasted about 22k miles. What are people getting on the S-03's just on the street (i.e., no track time or auto-x)? Thanks for the input. - Bob Bob Lenarcik Shoreline Communications 960 Stewart Drive, Sunnyvale CA 94085 www.goshoreline.com Voice: 408-962-1812 Fax: 408-331-3333 Email: blenarcik@shoretel.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Inspection I - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:08:47 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Inspection I At 08:33 AM 7/19/02, Burgess, Kim L wrote: >That's how these cars should be - 'problem free'. Just had an Inspection II >done and the shop that did the work for me (I'll be doin' em in the future) >also recommended Brake Fluid flush, Coolant flush, and Water Pump >replacement. I own a 99M3/2, with at the time of the I-II 38K, so this fall >I'll freshen' the coolant and the brake stuff as winter prep. I'll have to >admit I was a bit confused about the concern surrounding the WP, as I >thought the troublesome pumps were found in the pre-96 editions. They are. However, the post-96 pumps can still be a problem. I had mine replaced at around 50,000 miles due to it leaking a bit at the bearing. I would say unless there's a definite leak, or you're getting continual "Low Coolant" warnings, you should be OK. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - new WP, Thermo & radiator 1993 325is #44 KP - ditto (after the car overheated on my test drive :-))
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Tire wear question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:18:32 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tire wear question At 11:23 AM 7/19/02, Bob Lenarcik wrote: >I am on the last legs of a set of Kumho 712s and I don't think I can >wait for their new MXs. I want something a bit stickier than the 712s >for the next set. So, the alternatives (for me) are the Bridgestone >S-03s and the Yokohama AVS Sports. I've had the AVS Sports before and >they lasted about 22k miles. What are people getting on the S-03's just >on the street (i.e., no track time or auto-x)? Thanks for the input. Well, my data will probably throw the curve WAY off <g>, but here goes. I've had the SO-3s for about 21,000 miles so far, and they are about half worn I would guess. Strictly freeway driving, no autox or track. I fully expect to get btwn 35 & 40K miles out of the tires. I got similar wear out of the Pilot Sports I had previously. The AVS Sports were replaced prematurely due to the "ugly wheel" incident (caliper through the wheel, remember? :-)) - I disliked those tires anyway, so I was glad to see them go. (I have 8.5" wheels all around, so I can rotate F<->R, which helps.) My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - current SO-3s 1993 325is #44 KP - next up, Michelin Pilot Sport Cups (the 2 sets of Kumho Ecsta's were CRAP)
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Tire wear question - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:45:16 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tire wear question Jim, C'mon, you're not trying hard enough! <g> Looking over the history of tires I've had, I probably would wear them out faster than you even if it's only street/highway. About 50% of my driving is on Highways 17 & 9 and not always at "safe" speeds (at least that's what the cop tried to tell me until he realized that the car/tires can handle it easily - it still wasn't a "legal" speed so therefore...). Here's what I gotten: Original Pilot MXX3s - 12k (1 track weekend) Yoko AVS S1s - 25k Yoko AVS Sports - 21k (too much neg camber there) ECSTA 712s - 28k If the S-03's come in between the Yoko's and the Kumho's for mileage, then it would be worth it. I've got 8" wheels all around for rotation too. Thanks! - Bob -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jimbassett@attbi.com] Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 12:24 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tire wear question Well, my data will probably throw the curve WAY off <g>, but here goes. I've had the SO-3s for about 21,000 miles so far, and they are about half worn I would guess. Strictly freeway driving, no autox or track. I fully expect to get btwn 35 & 40K miles out of the tires. I got similar wear out of the Pilot Sports I had previously. The AVS Sports were replaced prematurely due to the "ugly wheel" incident (caliper through the wheel, remember? :-)) - I disliked those tires anyway, so I was glad to see them go. (I have 8.5" wheels all around, so I can rotate F<->R, which helps.)
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Tire wear question - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:52:27 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tire wear question I shouldn't comment on mileage, as my SO3s saw a bit of track duty before I went to dedicated track wheels/tires. I did want to make a quick comment, however... Don't know if you've looked at the prices on the S03s recently, but the sizes I buy (245/40-17) are actually less expensive than the AVS Sports now. I think this set I just ordered were around $171 per tire. Just FYI, Jonathan L. >From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > >I am on the last legs of a set of Kumho 712s and I don't think I can >wait for their new MXs. I want something a bit stickier than the 712s >for the next set. So, the alternatives (for me) are the Bridgestone >S-03s and the Yokohama AVS Sports. I've had the AVS Sports before and >they lasted about 22k miles. What are people getting on the S-03's just >on the street (i.e., no track time or auto-x)? Thanks for the input. > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com