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#1. Re: [E36M3] Cabin Silencing Tip - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 18:34:28 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cabin Silencing Tip i have the same issue, i'm sure we all do. usually, i go for the 'temporary fix' and simply slide a piece of paper between the console and the seat and everything's quiet. works well until the piece of paper slides out. <g> thanks for the tip. rich From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> > Gruppe, > > Do y'all go nuts at squeaks and rattles inside the car, or is it just = > me? Well, the leather interior of my beloved 95 M5 emits = > squeaking/crackling sounds when driving because interfering surfaces rub = > against one another. The worst offender is the center arm rest. When = > you sit in the driver's seat, the side bolster flexes and pushes against = > the leather of the armrest and then squeaks with every bump in the road. = > I used to counteract this with talcum powder, which would "lubricate" = > the surfaces and render them silent. But it was only temporary. > > Well, I think I've finally found a permanent fix. I always wished BMW = > would have recognized this and made the SIDES of the leather surfaces = > with suede finish instead of smooth leather--which would have eliminated = > the problem. But I thought maybe I could duplicate the effect myself = > somehow if I could insert something between the offending surfaces. = > Something like, . . . oh I don't know . . . maybe FELT perhaps. Being = > an old bowhunter, I saw the light like a fooking flare one day. I went = > to my friendly archery dealer and bought some adhesive felt (used to = > silence bow risers beneath arrow rests.) This black felt is adhesive on = > one side and can be trimmed with scissors to fit. I applied it on the = > sides of my arm rest last night, and lo and behold, the car is "almost" = > quiet as a tomb inside. Bingo. But I did say "almost." I still get an = > occasional noise from my fold-down REAR seats. I intend to attack that = > area next to see if I can complete the job! Give it a try! > > Cod > Major Chris Darling > HQ AMC/CEX > DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Cabin Silencing Tip - from Scott Yu
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:01:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cabin Silencing Tip I think this beats the previously mentioned $0.064 felt tab as the cheapest 'Lowest Fixed Cost Fix' When it doesn't fall out, that is <g> scott yu --- Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cabin Silencing Tip > > i have the same issue, i'm sure we all do. usually, > i go > for the 'temporary fix' and simply slide a piece of > paper > between the console and the seat and everything's > quiet. > works well until the piece of paper slides out. <g> > > thanks for the tip. > > rich __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: Koni Settings - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:29:26 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Koni Settings Koni SettingsYou may be right...I made an assumption here...I had = checked the fronts and found the 1-1.5 turns from full soft..I did not = check the rears, but made the asumption..YOu may be right...but Im = wondering if what you are saying wrt handling characteristics applies to = just the rebound adjustment that we have...I must confess, I do not = understand the relationship between compression adjustment, which is = factory set, and rebound adjustment which we have some control over. = But I always thought, in my limited handling knowledge, that compression = had a bigger effect on handling than did rebound...I realize I may be = completely wrong on this. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank = pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni = Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR=20 To: BMW M3 Digest=20 Cc: elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net ; Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com=20 Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 11:49 AM Subject: Koni Settings Paul, I disagree the shock adjustment should match front to rear.=20 Perhaps Dinan sets them up this way to ensure a big safe push in the = handling, but I don't think this is optimal. My own experience = convinced me that the rears need to be stiffer than the front. = Furthermore, Bob T told me the same. For me, a good rule of thumb is, = however stiff you like the front suspension, make the rears at a half = turn stiffer. Rationale: the stiffer you make the front (to reduce = body roll), the more the car will understeer. The rears need to be = stiffer relative to the front in order to counteract this. YMMV, of = course, but this is what works for me. Cod=20 Major Chris Darling=20 HQ AMC/CEX=20 DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698=20 -------------------- 8 --------------------=20 Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:15:59 -0400=20 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>=20 Subject: Koni Shock setting (Dinan specific)=20 >>Did anyone know the front and rear setting recommendation for = Koni? Since=20 they're probably specific to springs, how does Dinan set them, since = I'm=20 thinking Dinan springs<<=20 When I got mine in January, if I recall correctly, they came either = at 1=20 full turn, or 1.5 full turns from full soft. I believe thats how = Dinan=20 matches them up to the springs...remember, this adjustment only = effects=20 rebound...Compression is factory set and not adjustable on these...I = havent=20 checked, but the rear adjustment should match the front. To adjust = the=20 fronts, you need to use a pair of needle nose pliers cause I think = youll=20 find that the little plastic knob adjuster they give you wont fit as = the=20 piece you need to grab onto will be too close to the side of the = opening in=20 the shock tower. The rear shocks need to be removed in order to be=20 adjusted.=20 Paul Elliott=20
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#4. Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals - from Paul England
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:49:58 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals A two-for-one post special! :) > Subject: re: that harbor freight 37lb jack... > I paid $206 with shipping < snip > The unit itself is a US General Model Mine arrived yesterday, and although it'll have to wait until tomorrow to hoist my M3, it simply looks awesome for $206! > Subject: $65 tires > I assume that the AVSi's aren't as sticky as the MMX or Pilots You assume incorrectly! I just swapped in a set of these to replace some Pilot Sports that were nearing their wearbars, and they are -very- sticky! Granted, my MPSs were down to that kinda greasy stage underneath the good rubber, but it wasn't that long ago that they were at their peak. I'd say the AVSi is easily 95% of the MPSs. -Paul England '97 M3/2
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#5. bargain tires & road noise? - from Scott Yu
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 17:16:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: bargain tires & road noise? So... does anyone have any experience in comparing road noise between Yoko AVS Sports and AVS i's? I like my AVS sports a lot, but for the next tire I think I'd like to get something a bit more quiet. Then again, whenever I stop doing this offsite work my commute will go from 60 minutes back to the normal 8... but it'd be nice to know anyway :) scott yu __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 17:20:47 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals Paul, I'd say the AVS Si's are a decent tire in the dry; they suck in the rain. I never drove the car with those tires even if there was a chance of rain. The AVS Sports were a much better wet tire for the same money. Even then it wasn't a really good wet weather tire. That's why the Si's are NLA. I also read somewhere that Yokohama is coming out with a new max performance tire later this year. Any one hear details on this? - Bob " I'd say the AVSi is easily 95% of the MPSs." -Paul England '97 M3/2
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni Settings - from Chris Teague
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 18:18:24 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni Settings Paul, In general, rebound on the shocks has a bigger effect. That's why Koni's that are single adjustable adjust rebound only. Also in general, stiffer springs need more rebound. That's why it's nice to have adjustable shocks, so they can be tuned to the specific spring. At the risk of oversimplifying things, the springs should take the compression load, and the rebound on the shock keeps the spring from shooting back to far or too fast. That being said, some people, me included, run lot's of rear rebound with stock M3 springs to try to minimize the understeer. There are better ways to do that, but if you must run stock class rules, or you just want to make do with what you have, sometimes you use the rebound adjustment to compensate (compression also). With my H&R sports, I have set the rebound to match the springs, so I actually am running less rear rebound (and more front) than with stock springs. But I also have camber and sway bars to help the understeer. With the DA Koni's, you can set the compression also to help tune the car to the springs. The compression setting has a huge effect on the ride quality, so I change them for street/autox. I hope this helps some. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:29:26 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Re: Koni Settings > ....I must confess, I do not = > understand the relationship between compression adjustment, which is = > factory set, and rebound adjustment which we have some control over. = > But I always thought, in my limited handling knowledge, that compression = > had a bigger effect on handling than did rebound...I realize I may be = > completely wrong on this...
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals - from Paul England
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:31:11 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 37# Jack and AVSi deals Haven't driven them in rain yet, so my opinion is subject to change! :) -Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > > I'd say the AVS Si's are a decent tire in the dry; they suck in the > rain. I never drove the car with those tires even if there was a chance > of rain. The AVS Sports were a much better wet tire for the same money. > Even then it wasn't a really good wet weather tire. That's why the Si's > are NLA. I also read somewhere that Yokohama is coming out with a new > max performance tire later this year. Any one hear details on this? > > - Bob
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#9. Cabin Silencing Tip - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 22:19:19 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Cabin Silencing Tip >>The worst offender is the center arm rest. When = you sit in the driver's seat, the side bolster flexes and pushes against = the leather of the armrest and then squeaks with every bump in the road<< Yup, happens to me all the time ...I dont have the felt, but I did find that applying Leatherique to the sides of the seat where it comes in contact with the arm rest works wonders...Doesnt last too long, but it does for a month or two...I tried the talcom, and aside from coloring everything white, didnt help much...The talcom eventually winds up creating friction...Oil is better, like leatherique..I also have to use it in back, where the folding seat contacts the side boltsers. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#10. Need sources for another insurance company - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 22:56:37 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: Need sources for another insurance company Hi, My carrier, Nationwide, just informed me that because of a little ole wreckless driving charge they are canceling my daughter and my insurance (same policy). Nationwide will write us at the high risk rate which is more than double, so I'm shopping around. Anyone have any really good suggestions on companies out there that are competitive and worth contacting for a quote? My driving history is spotless, I have no other tickets, moving violations, etc., in the last 20 yrs., except for my little hiccup last summer and then my daughter's backing into another car, otherwise she's clean except that she's an 18 yr. old college student. I was w/ Nationwide for 10 yrs. I'm looking at Progressive and anyone else that writes insurance w/ my type of violations. So far Progressive is the lowest, but I would really appreciate suggestions, testimonials, etc., if you have another source. TIA Evan Knoxville, TN