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#1. Instrument cluster bulbs - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:23:50 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Instrument cluster bulbs It appears that I've got a couple of burnt-out bulbs in the instrument cluster; one behind the fuel gauge and one behind the tach. Is replacement fairly straight-forward? Anyone have experience doing this? Thanks, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - a little dimmer than usual (the car, not the driver. Sheesh :-)) 1993 325is #44 KP
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#2. Re: M3 Center Arm Rest q's - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 15:21:10 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: M3 Center Arm Rest q's Mike, >Did any of the m3's come stock with the armrest? Lux package should have them stock. Most base cars did not come with an arm rest. Many people have added them. >How much does it cost to add on? A bit over $210 with a 20% CCA discount from your friendly dealer. Check out the accessory catalog. They are available in any interior color. Far as I know all E36 2 doors had the same arm rest/console bits in various arrangements depending on options and year of production. >How hard is the install? Took an hour I think, including the time spent cleaning up the coffee stains from the previous owner. >Anyone have any pictures of it installed? Check out any other E36 with an armrest, it looks the same. If you really want a pic let me know. >How does that effect the cup holders? I removed my cup holders to maximize storage space. I set up my console to match the setup I had in my '92 325is. You get a change tray up front by the shifter and the rest goes to storage under the arm rest. I never see a need for cup holders anyway. I would think that an aftermarket cup holder would be a better solution. Especially for those that like to have a large java for that morning commute. FYI, all the armrest/console pieces are all interchangable, you can put cassette tape holders, cup holders, ash trays (for commuter change) in various configurations. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) (no cup holders) '97 M3 (Orion) (decup'd, debadged...) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#3. Re: [E36M3] M3 Center Arm Rest q's - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 15:28:46 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Center Arm Rest q's This depends on your technique. If you shift with your elbow up a bit higher than (or even resting on) the arm rest it will NEVER get in the way. Having your elbow more level with the top of the shifter may not be such a bad thing either as I think you can argue it might improve accuracy when engaging gears...then again..maybe not.... YMMV.... -Justin >Mike, >You should know that in the down position the arm rest gets in the way of >shifting. Thus virtually everyone who drives a arm-rested M3 on track >bungee cords ties it in the 'up' position. >alex f '>95 M3 - we don't need no stinking center arm rests OR cup holders! -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni Settings - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 14:47:08 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni Settings "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> wrote: > > In general, rebound on the shocks has a bigger > effect. Chris, Do you mean effect on handling or comfort? My kidneys can't tell much difference when I change Koni SA rebound rate, while my butt can clearly detect the effect on under/over-steer. OTOH, friends who had shelled out for DA Konis or JRZs can in fact soften both rates and obtain a much more street/kidney friendly car than mine. > That's why Koni's that are single adjustable > adjust rebound only. I heard someone quote that the rebound adjustability was cheaper to implement? > At the risk of oversimplifying things, the springs should > take the compression load, and the rebound on the shock > keeps the spring from shooting back to far or too fast. Agreed. > That being said, some people, me included, run lot's > of rear rebound with stock M3 springs to try to minimize > the understeer. There are better ways to do that, but > if you must run stock class rules, or you just want to > make do with what you have, sometimes you use the > rebound adjustment to compensate (compression also). Same here. Well, rebound only for me with my SAs. 1/4 turn from full stiff in the back (someone told me not to set them to the min/max extremes) and 2/3 stiff in the front works OK with TC's 'track line' kit springs. Still too much understeer in the slow corners, but just about all the oversteer in fast ones that I can handle. Which brings me to the next question: Does anyone know how one set's up a car to discriminate between slow (2nd gear) vs. fast (4th gear) corners? > With my H&R sports, I have set the rebound to match the > springs, so I actually am running less rear rebound (and more > front) than with stock springs. All else been equal, wouldn't that result in more understeer vs. setting the fronts to be stiffer? You are also contradiction yourself in your previous paragraph... > But I also have camber > and sway bars to help the understeer. With the DA Koni's, > you can set the compression also to help tune the car > to the springs. The compression setting has a huge effect > on the ride quality, so I change them for street/autox. Agreed. Alas I do not have that options. alex f '95 M3 back on TC's "track line" kit. > I hope this helps some. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:29:26 -0400 > > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > > Subject: Re: Koni Settings > > > > ...I must confess, I do not = > > understand the relationship between compression adjustment, which > > is factory set, and rebound adjustment which we have some control > > over. But I always thought, in my limited handling knowledge, that > > compression had a bigger effect on handling than did rebound...I > > realize I may be completely wrong on this...
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#5. 3.2 euro motor vs. 3.0 SC motor - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 15:59:32 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: 3.2 euro motor vs. 3.0 SC motor Hello- I have a 3.0 RMS SC'd motor w/ euro hfm/approx 5-5.5 lbs of boost Thinking of doing a 3.2 euro conversion Anyone have a dyno plot of the 3.2 euro motors? Anything to look out for re reliability etc. Thanks Jeff 95 M3 (build date 8/95 w/ EWS)
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Instrument cluster bulbs - from Jesse Chamberlain
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 16:45:18 -0400 From: Jesse Chamberlain <JChamberlain@mapletree.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Instrument cluster bulbs Hi Jim, I just did this on my 325i. If you dont remove the Steering wheel/airbag, in my opinion, it is a royal PITA. What I did was remove the larger center airvent so I could get my hands in behind the cluster, pushed out the cluster ( I couldnt get the cluster out from the front, but other people have had success doing this.) rotated the cluster just enough to gain access to where the bulbs were located and using the correct deep socket for the blub holder (I can't remember what size it was), unscrewed it (it only needs to be rotated about 90 degrees). I then replaced the bulb and then put it back in the same way. It took me about 45 hour to do 1 bulb behind the MPH guage, but it was my first time doing it. It might be a good idea to do all of them while you have things apart. Hope this helps. Jesse Chamberlain -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jimbassett@attbi.com] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 3:24 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Instrument cluster bulbs Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:23:50 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Instrument cluster bulbs It appears that I've got a couple of burnt-out bulbs in the instrument cluster; one behind the fuel gauge and one behind the tach. Is replacement fairly straight-forward? Anyone have experience doing this? Thanks, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - a little dimmer than usual (the car, not the driver. Sheesh :-)) 1993 325is #44 KP ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Re: [E36M3] M3 Center Arm Rest q's - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 13:53:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Center Arm Rest q's --- Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> wrote: > >How does that effect the cup holders? > > When in the "down" position, only the front > cupholder is useable. a starbuck's "short" fits in the rear holder with the armrest down... -zs (98 m3/4 with a wife who likes to drink her short latte at home in the evening... ;-)
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#8. Piston Ring - from David Sanchez
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 14:16:04 -0700 From: "David Sanchez" <sanchez918@msn.com> Subject: Piston Ring Just had a misfiring diagnosed as low compression (80% leakage) on one of my pistons. Technician told me (European Motor Cars, Las Vegas) that it was possible a cracked ring. Has anybody experience this problem. The car is a 5/94 build date with 78,000 miles and never been tracked. Aside from a Conforti Chip it is entirely stock. I've dealt with the water pump problem and other minor details but I hadn't heard of rings as a potential problem for this model. David M. Sanchez 1995 M-3 Daytona Violet - Sharked Sin City Chapter _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#9. Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires - from Carl Stern
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 15:42:30 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires I wouldn't have any hesitation moving up to the Yoko A032R. I bought a used set right after getting my M3 last year. I learned from driving my SHO on the track that if you use your street tires, you have crappy tires at the track, and quickly have crappy tires for the street too due to the chunking, edge wear etc. The prices are comparable so it is not like you are saving any money by abusing top quality street rubber. I went with the Yoko A032Rs due to recommendations for track tires that would be more forgiving and predictable, and be durable, compared to other R compound tires. It is the only R compound I have driven on. It is not a night and day difference from the MXX3s. More like late afternoon and evening. They do grip better, which is the point, but I would say the switch to PF97 brake pads made more of difference to me than the tire changeover did. Do it, you won't regret it. Carl Stern 95 M3, 19k stock
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#10. OT - SS kits and creaky CP - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 14:58:28 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: OT - SS kits and creaky CP Group sorry about the OT - But I am in the process of upgrading my Shifter. There are a number of choices from reworked stock to BIG-$$ European replacement parts. My intention is to stay on the low end price-wise and was wondering about the current offerings from Rogue, UCC (been quite a bit of traffic here about early units.), and others, including RS's reworked Z3 shifter. I have already added the devices that stiffen the transmission mounts - is there any detrimental effects to this upgrade - as the shifter now seems solid with the addition of the STD-rings. Are there any other fixes out there aside from RS's reworked pedal for the chronic creaky pedal? Does the addition of a clutch stop alleviate the symptoms at all? TIA KLBurgess 99M3/2