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#1. Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 22:26:25 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires on 7/22/02 2:03 PM, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: >> At 01:23 PM 7/20/02, Chester Wong wrote: >>> Toyo RA1s >>> Yok A032Rs >>> Kuhmo Ecsta V700s >>> >>> Any recommendations? Input/feedback? Write me! =) >> >> No contest - Toyo RA1s. > > I'll second Jim! > Toyo RA1s all the way unless you are not racing to win. Than Hoosiers. > > Two addendums: > 1. They are $150/per from Discount Tire chain (if you have one in your > state). My theory is that Toyo loses money on every tire, so to stem the losses they're trying real hard not to sell any. Maybe that's why their distribution is either quasi non-existent or extremely well hidden. (Oh, and their web site wasn't working earlier today either.) Tire Rack doesn't carry Toyos at all. Alex says that Discount Tire does, but their web site makes no mention of that brand. A Google search for RA-1 brings up a race shop who wants to sell me a 235/40-17 RA-1 for $195 a pop, which is pretty much approaching Hoosier territory - I think not. So anybody want to suggest a good mail order source, preferably Midwest or East to keep shipping cost reasonable? Neil 96 M3 - baby needs new track shoes
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#2. Re: instrument cluster removal - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:40:09 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: instrument cluster removal For a pic at how the connectors work, connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images//instrumentclustconn.jpg
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#3. H&R coilovers...too low - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:47:31 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: H&R coilovers...too low Jeff, >>BTW, when I removed my H&R c/o's, I noticed that I was coilbinding up front big time. They were on for 7 months, less than 5,000 miles, front set at 13 1/4", rear 12<< How are you measuring? With my Dinan suspension, I measure from wheel roundel center to fender bottom, and am reading 12.5" up front and 12" in back, and this is absolutely as low as Id want to go. Dont much care for the speed bumps tickling the bottom of the car! If anybody else with mod suspensions measures this way, please post...thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 21:46:43 -0500 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? A 32 mm bicycle headset wrench works perfectly on the nut. Figure 8 or 9 bucks. If you tug the wrench sharply, sometimes the nut'll come off. Mind didn't, so I took an 18" piece of roof flashing (galvanized sheet steel about 4" wide), drilled two holes slightly larger than the pulley bolt heads and cut a relief between them for the shaft. Slid that sucker in so the pulley bolt heads were sticking through the holes, braced the other end against the Vanos unit, and then tugged on my headset wrench. Piece o' cake. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 10:13 PM Subject: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? > Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:13:54 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: SC Belt Access? > > While the belt is working perfectly, being the perfectionist that I am, I > must say that if I had my way, Id have a slightly shorter belt...The top > with the pulley is so tightened that its belt portion is only about a half > inch above the long bottom portion, and it looks like its deflecting a good > couple of inches, instead of the preferred half inch to whole inch I read > about... Theres no slippage, so I probably wont go looking for trouble, but, > lets just say I wanted to change my belt... > > My Bentley says that you need a special 32mm open ended wrench to access the > left handed threaded bolt to remove the fan, which I believe is a > prerequisite to accessing the SC belt. But its still a problem to keep in > from spinning...So BMW has a special tool for this..Just in case I need to > change the belt one day, has anybody actually removed their fan themselves, > and if so, could you detail how you did it? > > Thanks. > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] OT - SS kits and creaky CP - from Eric ///M Foster
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 22:59:57 -0500 From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT - SS kits and creaky CP Kim, I agree with Chris Teague's response - the UUC clutch arm bushings are the way to go to end your problems with the "chronic creaky pedal". See: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_arm_bushings/ On the Short Shifter side, I'd again strongly recommend the UUC short shifter. I've posted this opinion to the list before, but I'd previously owned another brand of short shifter. Long story short, I happened to get a chance to drive a friend's 2000 S4 equipped with a UUC SS and I flat-out loved it. I came home from the track weekend and ordered a UUC short shifter for my car. I've had one on every BMW I've owned since (with the exception of the e46 M3 I owned for all of six months). See: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/bmw_shifters/shifter_nav.htm Good luck, -Eric M. Foster http://bmw.jedinite.com
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#6. Re: Piston Ring - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:32:22 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: Re: Piston Ring I agree with Neil. The problem is more likely bent valves. There are a lot of BMW CCA club racers running E36 M3s and I haven't heard of a single piston ring failure on any of those cars. OTOH, bent valves are common. Have your mechanic do a leakdown test on the engine. If the valves are bent, he should be able to detect the pressurized are leaking back into the intake. If the piston rings really are broken, then the bottom end becomes pressurized and the leakdown gives a different reading. If he doesn't know how to do a leakdown test, find a different mechanic. HTH, Bob Stommel Indianapolis >on 7/22/02 8:43 PM, "David Sanchez" <sanchez918@msn.com> wrote: > >> Just had a misfiring diagnosed as low compression (80% leakage) on one of my >> pistons. Technician told me (European Motor Cars, Las Vegas) that it was >> possible a cracked ring. Has anybody experience this problem. The car is a >> 5/94 build date with 78,000 miles and never been tracked. Aside from a >> Conforti Chip it is entirely stock. I've dealt with the water pump problem >> and other minor details but I hadn't heard of rings as a potential problem >> for this model. > >I've never seen a post regarding shot piston rings, which of course doesn't >mean it isn't possible. Still, there are lots of M3s around with more miles >than yours. > >How do they know the compression leak isn't at a valve? Bent valves aren't >unknown; usual cause is over-rev. Are you the original owner? > >Neil >96 M3
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#7. M3 parts for sale - from Vince Leo
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 21:16:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: M3 parts for sale I have the euro headlights with Josh's kit to run the 100w bulbs for sale. These were purchased from Josh at Eurosport. I like $250 plus shipping for the pair. They are in excellent shape. I also have the driver and passenger glass for the outside mirrors. Both mirrors are convex and do not have the "object are closer..." wording on the passenger side. They are also heated. $25 for both, plus shipping. Finally I have the clear side (fender) markers (the front clear and taillights are already gone). $10 for the pair, plus shipping. I am heading to Watkins Glen for a Trackmasters school and an SCCA race this weekend, so I will check e-mail on Tuesday and maybe Friday. Please do not take offense if I do not get right back to you. Vince __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 21:24:41 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Maybe ready to move up in tires >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > >My theory is that Toyo loses money on every tire, so to stem the losses >they're trying real hard not to sell any. > Yup. They can be hard to find, especially at a good price. It takes some hunting. > >Tire Rack doesn't carry Toyos at all. Alex says that Discount Tire does, >but >their web site makes no mention of that brand. > Their website doesn't have them, but you can call a local Discount Tire, or America's Tire, and they absolutely will order them for you (around here anyway). > >So anybody want to suggest a good mail order source, preferably Midwest or >East to keep shipping cost reasonable? > Tread Depot carries them (I think it's treadepot.com, or something very close to that, but it won't come up on my home comp. right now). I think they have them for $175 or so for the 235/40 size. Of course, there's shipping to pay too, but it's still not a bad price. I found a local place willing to sell them for $180, so I went with that. I called around a lot before buying, however. The price range for the same tire/size was incredible. I had quotes ranging from $180 to *$280* per tire. Really wild price ranges, so it pays to shop. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#9. RE: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? - from Jason Jensen
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 00:37:37 -0400 From: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? Crescent wrench and a screw driver...:) Took a few tries, but worked... Jason -----Original Message----- From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 11:14 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] SC Belt Access? Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:13:54 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: SC Belt Access? ...Just in case I need to change the belt one day, has anybody actually removed their fan themselves, and if so, could you detail how you did it? Thanks.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] H&R coilovers...too low - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 22:16:45 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R coilovers...too low I have H&R Sport Springs, and I get 13 1/4 Front, and 12" in the rear. I would think that 12.5" in front is pretty low. Chris 97 M3/4 > They were on for 7 months, less than 5,000 miles, front set at 13 > 1/4", rear 12<< > > How are you measuring? With my Dinan suspension, I measure from wheel > roundel center to fender bottom, and am reading 12.5" up front and 12" in > back, and this is absolutely as low as Id want to go. If anybody else with mod > suspensions measures this way, please post...thanks.