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#1. Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 20:53:24 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons I just failed the BC (Canada) smog test for hydrocarbons at idle (twice the allowed level). Carbon monoxide was less than 10% of allowed levels. They can only test my car at idle because they are not prepared to put it on their dyno due to the liability of possibly damaging my stock 17" 10-spokes?? Any suggestions for possible causes (and remedies or magic elixirs) for this failure are greatly appreciated. This is a '99 M3 with 90,000km (55,000mi), and has been intaked and sharked via Eurosport and exhausted via AA Gen III. Thanks in advance, Doug PS >> Still hoping for pictures of anyone who has been pleased with installing an E46 lip spoiler .... thanks, DB
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#2. 1995 BMW M3 Autox Wheels For Sale - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 21:51:32 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: 1995 BMW M3 Autox Wheels For Sale I am finally cleaning out my garage and I have one set of 1995 BMW M3 wheels left for sale. This set is in okay condition, but do have Hoosiers with lots of tread that have just been flipped on the rims. <http://www.ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1995_bmw_m3/forsale/wheel_set_two/index.html> SF Bay Area buyers only for $600.00 or best offer. Thanks, -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com 1996 BMW M3, SCCA SFR Solo II Street-Mod #173
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Bedding Hawk HT-10 pads on new rotors - from Jeff A
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 07:26:04 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bedding Hawk HT-10 pads on new rotors Eric, The TCK instructions worked for me, below from their web site. BTW, I agree on bimmerworld, a great group. ---------------- Hawk Brake Pads - Rotor Burnishing Procedure ©Hawk Brake Although Hawk Brake pads are burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated on your rotors to achieve maximum performance. Whether you're using new or used rotors, you must follow the steps listed below to achieve maximum brake performance. Step 1 Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Step 2 Increase speeds to simulate race conditions. Allow 6 to 8 very hard stops at racing speeds. Step 3 Allow brakes to cool for 15 minutes or more. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period. Your rotors and Hawk Brake pads are now ready to race! Do not sand the pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. At TC Kline Racing we've also found we get better braking performance and life out of our pads and rotors if we do not install new pads and new rotors at the same time. Whenever possible we use seasoned rotors with new pads or used pads to season new rotors. Also, we avoid extremely hard braking during a rotor's initial break-in session. Get the most out of your BMWs braking performance by taking a little more time to break things in properly. We do! > Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 22:39:34 -0500 > From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> > Subject: Bedding Hawk HT-10 pads on new rotors > > Everyone, > > Just replaced the rotors (new OEM from Bimmerworld) as well as brake pads > (Hawk HT-10 from Bimmerworld) on my '95 M3. > > Anyone have suggestions on how to best bed in these new pads and rotors? > > I've heard a wide variety of advice in this regard over time, and thought > this would be a good topic for debate on a slow list night... <grin> > > Also must say, very much a pleasure dealing with the gentlemen from > Bimmerworld. Ordered on Thursday in preparation for a driving school this > weekend - rotors were on my door on Monday, pads arrived today (as we were > replacing the rotors). Bimmerworld really knows their stuff, and really > came through for me in a short timeframe. > > -Eric ///M Foster > http://bmw.jedinite.com
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#4. [E36M3] Sanding Rotors? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 06:06:13 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Sanding Rotors? With all the swapping back and forth I've done with my brake pads, I've got some pretty noticeable shuttering going on with the brakes. I'm assuming they're not warped, as they lose all shuttering after the first on-track session with race pads. By the time I get home, there's sometimes a tiny bit of shuttering, and when I switch back to street pads, the shuttering becomes pretty harsh. It's subsided a bit, since it's been so long since I've been to the track (a whopping 3 weeks!!), but it's still there under certain amounts of break pressure (medium braking only. No shuddering felt under hard braking or very light braking). I'd like to believe this is just pad material (if the above symptoms sound like something else, please let me know), especially since the rotors have various looking textures/colors on them. Would it be safe to sand the rotors down very lightly (while still on the car)? If so, is there a particular type or grit that would be recommended? Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#5. Piston Rings - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:50:11 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Piston Rings David says > > It turns out that my compression problem on cylinder #4 was due to an over > rev by the previous owner. I purchased the car in 1997 with 24,000 miles. My > technician used to work for the local dealer and remembers that there was a > Daytona Violet M-3 that came in because of an over rev. He is convince that > this is the same one. There are only two here locally. The damage to the > head is evident, etc. It appears that the dealer did a sloppy job of repairs > and then sold the car to me! Interesting. I wonder if the over rev harmed the valves on cylinder six the most and the prior sloppy repair only fixed it and now you are seeing the problem in other cylinders that were harmed less but still weakened by the prior over rev. I have seen this exact same problem in another 3.0l motor at Koalamotorsport where you could practically see the over rev history in the piston heads when you had a story teller like Brett Anderson telling you the story and pointing out what happened and when. The owner tried to sue the dealer the sold him the car and performed the repairs but I don't think anything came of it. Good luck finding a suitable replacement. Regards, Rich
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Sanding Rotors? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 06:59:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sanding Rotors? I heard sanding with aluminum oxide is a no-no. Chester --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I'd like to believe this is just pad material (if the above symptoms sound > like something else, please let me know), especially since the rotors have ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] List Virus Alert? - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:53:39 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] List Virus Alert? >Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:32:09 -0700 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Subject: [E36M3] List Virus Alert? > >I've been getting a few file-containing emails per day from various >members of our list, but I'm sure they're all viruses. Now I've >also got people inquiring as to whether or not I've sent them files, >so I assume everyone is getting these things. Is that the case? > >Jonathan L. > I do not get any attachments on this list. In fact, when someone tries, as was done yesterday, the attachment is stripped before it gets to me and the following message is inserted: Attached files are not permitted on this list, attachment has been removed. George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters - from racebro@santacruzbicycles.com
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:34:25 -0700 From: racebro@santacruzbicycles.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters Andy, Did you do this adjustment while the seat backs were mounted to the seat bottoms, or while they were unattached and out of the car? This would probably be obvious if I was actually looking at the seats right now, but for some reason I can't picture it while sitting here in my office in front of the computer... Jason Lombard >While I was in there, I bent in the seat side supports - two metal sheets >that set the amount of side bolstering. This should be done carefully and >slowly, with lots of iteration with the seat foam to make sure you don't go >too far. It takes a full-body push to bend them, or fashion a lever of some >sort. Tune to taste for your own body shape. Mine had been at about 15 >degrees out from each other. I'm 6'3" and 175 lbs., and I bent them in to >about 10 degrees towards each other.
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#9. Over Heating :( - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:42:41 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Over Heating :( Good Morning Guys (at least hopefully for some), What a morning. Have a quick question for you. Hope you might be able to help. Yesterday while I was driving my 97 M3 Sedan I noticed that the car seemed to be running a little ruff. When I examined the gauges, I noticed that the car seemed to be running quite hot. The needle was just before the red. I consulted the owners manual and it stated something about that being normal if the car was in warm weather or extreme driving conditions. The problem is, it was 70 degrees here yesterday and I was driving around town running errands!! Do any of you guys know what could be causing the car to "overheat"? The needle never actually tripped the warning light but it was as close as possible. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. Mike Michalski 97 ///M3 Sedan Windy City Chapter
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters - from Birkhead, Rob
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:05:53 -0700 From: "Birkhead, Rob" <rbirkhead@bb.directv.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters Just as a quick note, on my 95 M3 non-power vaders, the seat frame was actually fiberglass and there is no way to bend the side supports in. I am not sure when they changes the seat frames, but mine is different than the one Andy described. Rob -----Original Message----- From: racebro@santacruzbicycles.com [mailto:racebro@santacruzbicycles.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:44 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:34:25 -0700 From: racebro@santacruzbicycles.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters Andy, Did you do this adjustment while the seat backs were mounted to the seat bottoms, or while they were unattached and out of the car? This would probably be obvious if I was actually looking at the seats right now, but for some reason I can't picture it while sitting here in my office in front of the computer... Jason Lombard >While I was in there, I bent in the seat side supports - two metal sheets >that set the amount of side bolstering. This should be done carefully and >slowly, with lots of iteration with the seat foam to make sure you don't go >too far. It takes a full-body push to bend them, or fashion a lever of some >sort. Tune to taste for your own body shape. Mine had been at about 15 >degrees out from each other. I'm 6'3" and 175 lbs., and I bent them in to >about 10 degrees towards each other. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:11:52 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( Re: > I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there >any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. Your water pump may be failing / have failed. A not-uncommon occurrence if your car has the factory plastic-impeller pump. Replace ASAP, like, today. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com