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#1. RE: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:12:05 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe Has anyone converted their manual rear windows in their Coupe to Power. Even my minivan has power rear side windows. Thanks Doug Wirth Sacramento Chapter 99 M3 *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters - from andy radin
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:35:21 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@fourfa.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjusting Vader Bolsters "Did you do this adjustment while the seat backs were mounted to the seat bottoms, or while they were unattached and out of the car? This would probably be obvious if I was actually looking at the seats right now, but for some reason I can't picture it while sitting here in my office in front of the computer..." The seat back/side cushions are separate from the seat frame and seat bottom cushion. I removed the back cushion, leaving the upper frame exposed, with the seat still in the car. Then I worked on the bare frame in the car, and replaced the cushion. re: some other emails, I found it very easy to unhook the seat leather from the frame. Maybe a little pushing and pulling to stretch it off the hooks and back on afterwards, but I had no problem. YMMV. andy r. 98 m3/2
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#3. RE: Over Heating ....... : ( - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:44:04 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Over Heating ....... : ( "Your water pump may be failing / have failed. A not-uncommon occurrence if your car has the factory plastic-impeller pump." "Replace ASAP, like, today." Or the weld that holds the metal impeller to the impeller shaft has failed....if your car has the post-plastic metal impeller. or - If coolant level is low, potentially you have a failed WP shaft seal. "Replace ASAP, like, today." Kim Burgess 99M3/2
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#4. Over Heating :( - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 12:51:31 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: Over Heating :( I would change out the water pump/thermostat/aluminum thermostat housing. While you/they are in there change out the a/c & alternator belts if they haven't been changed recently. Check the neck of the radiator (most prone to cracks). Lastly, check the fan clutch as well. Jeff > > > Good Morning Guys (at least hopefully for some), > > What a morning. Have a quick question for you. Hope you might be able > to > help. Yesterday while I was driving my 97 M3 Sedan I noticed that the car > seemed to be running a little ruff. When I examined the gauges, I noticed > that the car seemed to be running quite hot. The needle was just before > the > red. I consulted the owners manual and it stated something about that > being > normal if the car was in warm weather or extreme driving conditions. The > problem is, it was 70 degrees here yesterday and I was driving around town > running errands!! Do any of you guys know what could be causing the car to > "overheat"? The needle never actually tripped the warning light but it was > as close as possible. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there > any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. > > Mike Michalski > 97 ///M3 Sedan > Windy City Chapter > > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe - from nabli@earthlink.net
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:29:54 -0400 From: <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe Yes it's been done. It comes in a kit and you can ask Wayne Miller for some more details about the install. Cheers, Jim E. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Wirth" <DWirth@serena.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 12:23 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe > Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:12:05 -0700 > From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power rear windows for Coupe > > Has anyone converted their manual rear windows in their Coupe to Power. > Even my minivan has power rear side windows. > > Thanks > > Doug Wirth > Sacramento Chapter > 99 M3 > > > *********************************************************************** > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and > intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they > are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution > is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact > the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original > message. > *********************************************************************** > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#6. HT-10 pads - care and feeding - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:50:42 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: HT-10 pads - care and feeding > Anyone have suggestions on how to best bed in these new pads and rotors? > > I've heard a wide variety of advice in this regard over time, and thought > this would be a good topic for debate on a slow list night... <grin> OK, here is the best and most up to date info on the use of these pads that we have... First, use rotors that are in good condition - proper thickness, no excessive surface wear patterns. Otherwise, as much as we like to sell parts, there is no reason to replace rotors just because the pads are being replaced. Bedding procedure - there is an insert in the box that describes the process. I think it is a little hard to bed the pads on the street - I prefer a practice session at the track. Start the session using the brakes moderately for about 10 minutes, then take a few laps with absolute threshold braking. Let them cool for 30+ minutes and you are done. These don't seem terribly affected by bedding procedure. In a pinch we have bedded them on a pace lap or in the case of endurance racing, taken a couple of easier laps before braking normally after a pad change. Brake ducting - not usually required for these pads. They take up to 1,800F temps. Use a super high-temp fluid (we use AP 600) and you shouldn't have fade or warping problems except on very heavy cars in moderate temps (full stock weight plus two occupants) or stripped cars on very hot days. On cooler days, you will need to remove the ducting to keep the brakes operating in the correct temp range - cooling in this situation will result in decreased rotor life due to fractures in the metal structure. Remove the hoses - blocking them off will limit all natural cooling and will overheat the system. James ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance World Challenge / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:54:09 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons At 09:03 PM 7/23/02, The Buch wrote: >Any suggestions for possible causes (and remedies or magic elixirs) for >this failure are greatly appreciated. This is a '99 M3 with 90,000km >(55,000mi), and has been intaked and sharked via Eurosport and exhausted >via AA Gen III. Hmm, a couple of ideas (I just passed California smog on the M3 w/JimC SW - intake was replaced with stock box for the test - and 116,000 miles): - Make sure the cats are hot. Drive for at least 10-15 minutes, at high RPMs if you can. - When was the last time you changed spark plugs & O2 sensors? My plugs & O2 sensors were fairly new. Here's the idle readings, FWIW: HC ppm allowed: 100 HC ppm measured: 70 CO % allowed: 1.00 CO % measureed: 0.09 (I don't think the cats were as hot as they could have been - it took the tech a while to get to the car.) The 2500 RPM test was much better, HC-wise: Allowed: 120 Measured: 4 Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - passed CA smog 1993 325is #44 KP - will it pass next year?
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#8. Over Heating :( - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:53:49 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Over Heating :( Michael wrote >> >> I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there >> any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. Andrew responded with > > Your water pump may be failing / have failed. A not-uncommon > occurrence if your car has the factory plastic-impeller pump. > Replace ASAP, like, today. Not too likely since Michael's M3 is a 1997. I would guess thermostat or coolant level. Michael mentioned a 'warning light'. Are you sure a 'warning light' exists? I know on my E30s, it looks like there is a 'warning light' but when I opened up the instrument panel, there weren't any bulbs or accommodation for the 'warning light' I thought was there. I am not sure what exists on the M3. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 11:02:00 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( At 08:53 AM 7/24/02, Michael Michalski wrote: >I consulted the owners manual and it stated something about that being >normal if the car was in warm weather or extreme driving conditions. Baaaaa! How's this for "extreme" driving conditions: 113 degrees at Thunderhill, running an open track day (no run groups). Needle never budged. The only time I've ever seen an E36 temp needle move, there was trouble (race car overheated on my test drive, doh!). >I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there >any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. Others have guessed, mine would be sticky/failing thermostat. You *should* be in the post-plastic-impeller group (that's not to say it couldn't be a water pump issue). Regardless, get thee to a mechanic. Yesterday <bg>. Good luck, and let us know what it was, Jim Bassett
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 11:14:06 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Over Heating :( At 11:03 AM 7/24/02, Dorffer, Rich wrote: >Michael mentioned a 'warning light'. Are you sure a 'warning light' exists? Yep, the red section on the temp gauge is illuminated in severe overheating. Pretty much means "stop right NOW!" - BTDT. Jim Bassett