E36M3 #2472

Thursday, July 25, 2002 21:03:39

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jim Bassett
#2. Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jody Shapiro
#3. Over Heating Fixed :) - from Michael Michalski
#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jim Bassett
#5. Re: List Virus Alert? on topic, on thread help - not automotive - from Michael Kelley
#6. Whine and Cheese - from Steve Klein
#7. ACK!!! Lifter noise - from Eric Fesler
#8. [E36M3] Going from conventional to synthetic oil... - from David Hogg
#9. Health Risks of Detuning - from David Hogg
#10. Re: [E36M3] ACK!!! Lifter noise - from Chester Wong

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. RE: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 11:49:06 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons At 10:53 AM 7/25/02, Low, Roan wrote: >I've been away for quite a few years now, nice to be back and see quite a >few familiar names. What's the reason for JimC's absence? I can't say for sure, but he probably got tired of arguing with people who thought they knew more about engine tuning than he did <shrug>. As "The Buch" pointed out, and in my experience, he (and Josh at Eurosport) will respond to legitimate questions. As usual, IMO, YMMV, PDCC, etc. Jim Bassett

Reply to: Jim Bassett

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jody Shapiro
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 12:32:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@netgate.net> Subject: Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons > Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 10:29:46 -0700 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowering Hyrdrocarbons [snip] > >particularly if your smog test requires a long wait in line > >where I am advised by Jim C that the cat will cool down substantially at idle, > >and to run the car at above 2500 rpm for one out of every five minutes!! > > Good tip to know (Gosh, I miss JimC's participation.). And probably why my > idle measurement was a bit high. The car sat for at least 10 minutes before > being tested. Strange.. the first part of the CA smog test is running the car at ~2500rpm for 3 minutes to make sure the cats get up to temp and really start doing their job. You can watch the HC's drop over time as the RPM is held high. I wonder why your smog tech did the test on a cooled off cat?? Another tip is to slowly close the throttle when returning back to idle. If you just snap the throttle shut, immediately after at idle you'll see the HC's drop and then temporarily spike back up. A slow return to idle will soften or eliminate the HC spike. -Jody (back into lurk mode)

Reply to: Jody Shapiro

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. Over Heating Fixed :) - from Michael Michalski
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 14:51:40 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Over Heating Fixed :) Hey Guys, Well, I'm happy to report that the overheating problem has been fixed. Jeff you were correct in your last guess. Turns out it was the Fan Clutch. Took the car over to Laurel BMW in Westmont yesterday morning and had the car back this morning :) I also had been hearing a "clunking" sound coming from the rear of the car and thought it might have been a loose speaker. I have not had time to look so I figured I'd have the dealer take a look at it since the car was there any way. I'm really glad I did, because it turned out that the rear shock mounts had broke. They replaced the rear shock mounts, the hex nut, shock absorbers, guide support and the gasket for both sides. Car is cool and quite. Once again she's back to normal!! Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 Sedan Cool & Quite :) Windy City Chapter -----Original Message----- From: RacerxJLing@aol.com [mailto:RacerxJLing@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 11:54 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Over Heating :( Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 12:51:31 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: Over Heating :( I would change out the water pump/thermostat/aluminum thermostat housing. While you/they are in there change out the a/c & alternator belts if they haven't been changed recently. Check the neck of the radiator (most prone to cracks). Lastly, check the fan clutch as well. Jeff > > > Good Morning Guys (at least hopefully for some), > > What a morning. Have a quick question for you. Hope you might be able > to > help. Yesterday while I was driving my 97 M3 Sedan I noticed that the car > seemed to be running a little ruff. When I examined the gauges, I noticed > that the car seemed to be running quite hot. The needle was just before > the > red. I consulted the owners manual and it stated something about that > being > normal if the car was in warm weather or extreme driving conditions. The > problem is, it was 70 degrees here yesterday and I was driving around town > running errands!! Do any of you guys know what could be causing the car to > "overheat"? The needle never actually tripped the warning light but it was > as close as possible. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat. Is there > any other possible causes?? Thanks in advance. > > Mike Michalski > 97 ///M3 Sedan > Windy City Chapter > > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

Reply to: Michael Michalski

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 12:56:05 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Lowering Hyrdrocarbons At 12:33 PM 7/25/02, Jody Shapiro wrote: >Strange.. the first part of the CA smog test is running the car at >~2500rpm for 3 minutes to make sure the cats get up to temp and really >start doing their job. Hmm, I didn't know that. Plus, I *assumed* the car wasn't running, but didn't actually check. I just know how long it took the tech to begin working on the car after I parked it at the station. Maybe he did run it - which would make the 70 reading I got look worse. Oh well, it still passed. >-Jody (back into lurk mode) Come back again - that was good info. Don't keep it to yourself :-) Jim

Reply to: Jim Bassett

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re:  List Virus Alert? on topic, on thread  help -  not automotive - from Michael Kelley
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:34:16 -0400 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: List Virus Alert? on topic, on thread help - not automotive I've been getting from 1 to 7 hits a day too, all being caught by Norton AV, here's what's going on and something you can do to help. These particular viruses are coming attached to emails from people on this list that have PM'd me in the past, eBay sellers whom I've asked questions of, friends, spammers, etc. who have my email address in their address book. Their computers are receiving these viruses and then the virus isusing their address books to propogate itself to everyone listed in the address book. The address book in I.E. is arranged in numeric then alphabetic order. The virus looks to the first address, sends virus, then moves to the second address, third, and so on. Here's how to STOP your computer from resending out this virus. Open your address book, then click "New", then "New Contact". In any name block, enter 01000 and then click OK without entering an email address. You should then see this "Name" as the first listed in your address book. If the virus (or worm) gets past your antivirus software and into your email tool it will try sending itself out to this numeric name before any alphabetic name but will trap an error because there is no email address to send to. It cannot pass the error and will immediately stop replicating itself. This is only a backup routine to stop spreading these damned things, you should also be running a good antivirus software, like Norton. HTH Mike 98M3C > >Subject: [E36M3] List Virus Alert? > > > >I've been getting a few file-containing emails per day from various > >members of our list, but I'm sure they're all viruses. Now I've > >also got people inquiring as to whether or not I've sent them files, > >so I assume everyone is getting these things. Is that the case? > > > >Jonathan L. > > > > I do not get any attachments on this list. In fact, when someone tries, > as was done yesterday, the attachment is stripped before it gets to me > and the following message is inserted: > > Attached files are not permitted on this list, attachment has been removed.

Reply to: Michael Kelley

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Whine and Cheese - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:25:29 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Whine and Cheese Hello, all- I've got this very interesting whine that's most apparent in first gear. As I accelerate, the pitch increases with engine revs until right around 3500 rpm, at which point it tapers off rapidly. Even if I'm still accelerating steadily to redline. I can hear it sometimes in second, but quite faint. Any thoughts? I'm fearing something that has the word 'tranny' and wondering if the fluid could be low/old. I'm about a month away from Insp II, but I might move that up if M simply needs fresh fluid all round. As an aside, at the next service I, too, plan to switch from Valvoline (what the shop and PO use) to Mobil 1. Thanks all, Steve

Reply to: Steve Klein

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. ACK!!! Lifter noise - from Eric Fesler
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 17:30:46 -0700 From: "Eric Fesler" <eric@fesler.org> Subject: ACK!!! Lifter noise My 99 M3 has started to make what certainly sounds like lifter noise from one valve. A single loud tick that varries with RPM. It happens regardless of engine temperature. In fact it seems like it may be worse at hot. Car has 45K miles. No over-rev. Noise just started recently. I changed the oil today (from 5-30 to 15-50 both synthetic)and ran it at 3000RPM unloaded for 3min as per BMWs troubleshooting directions. Any other advice here? I have heard of carbon flushing but don't know what that means. My local gas station guy that I have change my oil suggested I could try adding 1/2 qt of ATF to the oil but that sounds like a questionable idea unless I want to change the oil again shortly thereafter. Help! Thanks, Eric

Reply to: Eric Fesler

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. [E36M3] Going from conventional to synthetic oil... - from David Hogg
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 21:00:19 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Going from conventional to synthetic oil... I learned that the leak stories were myth when I switched to Mobil 1 in a 2-liter Alfa with 125K on the clock. No leaks. Man if THAT motor doesn't leak with the switch, it's just a myth! And yes, Mobil 1 is a great oil for E36 M3's too. Which variant or weight doesn't seem to matter much. Dave Hogg

Reply to: David Hogg

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. Health Risks of Detuning - from David Hogg
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 21:20:53 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Health Risks of Detuning So the cat went south on my 53,000 mile '98/4 last week. Incessant rattle under the car at idle only. Dealer replaced under emissions warranty. While he was at it, I had him take off the AA work of art and put the stock muffler back on for various reasons that will remain personal. The AA had been on the car for about 50K. Pulled out of the lot thinking "this is quiet, but I can get used to it". Proceeded to mismatch revs on the first three heel and toe downshifts on the trip home. Arrgh! Was grinding my teeth hard, thinking "where's that beautiful sound now?" I can't hear the MOTOR! Found myself accelerating even harder and going faster than normal so I could hear the motor. Thankfully, the Shark intake made up for the slack at proper rpm's. Conclusion: The cost of accomplishing my personal detuning goal will be: 1. Tempral Mandibular Joint failure, causing extreme pain whenever I bite into a wonderful, juicy steak. What irony! 2. Increased risk of both personal injury and conversations with officers of the court as a result of undue speeding. Detuning. Yuck! Don't do it... Dave Hogg

Reply to: David Hogg

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. Re: [E36M3] ACK!!! Lifter noise - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:01:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ACK!!! Lifter noise Are you sure it's lifter tick? Not... - VANOS going south - OE dual mass flywheel going south - Squeaky belts...this one really annoys me and it seems that every time I replace the belt, the car goes in for something and they end up spilling oil or coolant on it! Well, since replacing the pulleys with the evoSport underdrive pulleys, I also replaced the main belt and everything is blissfully humming along Chester --- Eric Fesler <eric@fesler.org> wrote: > My 99 M3 has started to make what certainly sounds like > lifter noise from one valve. A single loud tick that > varries with RPM. It happens regardless of engine > temperature. In fact it seems like it may be worse at hot. > Car has 45K miles. No over-rev. Noise just started > recently. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com

Reply to: Chester Wong

Top