E36M3 #2479

Monday, July 29, 2002 11:14:18

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) - from Legerlotz, Alan
#2. RE: [E36M3] RE:....and it all started with....Sanding Rotors... - from Mel Silva
#3. RE: [E36M3] RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) - from Mel Silva
#4. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? - from Dave Kelley
#5. Warranty Gold vs CPO - from Carey Probst
#6. Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale - from DiVincenti, A.J.
#7. Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale - from Dave Kelley
#8. $170 finned diff cover? - from andy radin
#9. Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! - from Neil Maller
#10. Cooling System - Check this! - from Ron Buchalski

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#1. RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) - from Legerlotz, Alan
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:59:38 -0400 From: "Legerlotz, Alan" <alegerlotz@kronos.com> Subject: RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) >>Since my head is toast and the #4 cylinder is in bad shape I am exploring >>buying a new or used engine. I have located a 3.0l with 63k for $4,900. >>However, a factory new (no miles) engine would run me $6,315. I am >>struggling with the cost issues. Has anyone experience a similar situation. >>Any advice from the list members? If you get the used motor, you're already spending $4900 plus installation (which is a fixed cost in terms of time and/or money) and don't know what kind of use and maintenance the motor has gotten. For an additional $1415 (less than 30% more) you're getting a brand new motor that you know the history of and that must come with some sort of warranty. It seems like a no brainer to me. The extra $1415 certainly isn't free, but its cheap from the extra you're getting. -Al 1996 328is #328 JP

Reply to: Legerlotz, Alan

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#2. RE: [E36M3] RE:....and it all started with....Sanding Rotors... - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:02:10 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE:....and it all started with....Sanding Rotors... I am providing this to the list as a data point only... The fact that the M3 from the factory is the best sports car for the money was how I justified to my wife moving up from a low $20K car to a high $20K. I got to spend the extra $$ because the M3 already had most of the go fast improvements on it that I would be tempted to spend $$ on in a lesser car. For the most part this is true, I honestly believe that if I had bought a lesser car I would have already spent more on improving that car just to catch up to the M3. Now, the part I may have been a little dishonest about was when I told my wife that I wouldn't need to spend $$ on making the M3 faster/better. Of course she hasn't seen the x-brace or the Shark injector, but I'm amazed that she hasn't said anything about the H&R Sport springs that have been sitting on my workbench in the garage, in plain view, for at least a month??? Where is my wife and who is this imposter? Mel, confused and dismayed in Houston Penny, sitting comfortably in the garage waiting to be improved

Reply to: Mel Silva

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#3. RE: [E36M3] RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:32:54 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) For ~$1400 you could also invest in a Warranty Gold plan to insure against further "problems". I am not even a Warranty Gold customer, but they have been recommended by others that I trust. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Legerlotz, Alan [mailto:alegerlotz@kronos.com] Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 9:13 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:59:38 -0400 From: "Legerlotz, Alan" <alegerlotz@kronos.com> Subject: RE: M-3 Engine (was piston rings) >>Since my head is toast and the #4 cylinder is in bad shape I am exploring >>buying a new or used engine. I have located a 3.0l with 63k for $4,900. >>However, a factory new (no miles) engine would run me $6,315. I am >>struggling with the cost issues. Has anyone experience a similar situation. >>Any advice from the list members? If you get the used motor, you're already spending $4900 plus installation (which is a fixed cost in terms of time and/or money) and don't know what kind of use and maintenance the motor has gotten. For an additional $1415 (less than 30% more) you're getting a brand new motor that you know the history of and that must come with some sort of warranty. It seems like a no brainer to me. The extra $1415 certainly isn't free, but its cheap from the extra you're getting. -Al 1996 328is #328 JP ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:40:22 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? I just got a set of Koni SA's for the rear of my 98 M3. One of the shocks never stopped turning as you adjusted it. But the rebound did change.... there was just no stop for either hard or soft! The other shock was okay. I ended up just changing the setting on the second shock to have about the same rebound as the first. I set them in a vise and compared the speed that the shocks extened after being compressed. Was this second shock defective? Dave > Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 19:33:55 -0700 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? > > Bob, > > OK, I will go first. Here is answer #1 of 10: > > For me, with stock springs, full stiff in rear worked out > best. It was still comfortable on the street. For front, > somewhere between 1 and 1.5 turns from soft worked out well. > The front of course is easy to work out on you own, since > you can adjust between runs, and find what works best. I > would start full stiff in rear for autox. YMMV and all > that. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Group, > > > > At the risk of getting ten replies and ten different > > responses, I will > pose > > my question anyway. As always, I value every reply based > > on each owners concept of what they were exactly trying to > > accomplish. Well, I'm > purchasing > > Koni SA's all around and would like them adjusted to help > > minimize > understeer > > when autox'ing, but comfortable enough for the street > > since the M is my > daily > > driver. She already has Eibach sways (with reinforced > > rear mounts), > X-brace, > > and JTD RSMs with Z3 plate, but staying with OEM springs > > for now. > > > > How many turns from full soft front and back works best? > > > > TIA, > > > > Bob Gill > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > Philly Region SCCA > > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > > BSP Champion 2001 > > > > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > > >

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#5. Warranty Gold vs CPO - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:42:12 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Warranty Gold vs CPO My lease is ending in August and I am renewing it until I can get the E46. Considering having the dealer certify as a BMW CPO for the extended warranty. Anyone know how that compares in cost and coverage compared to Warranty Gold? Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

Reply to: Carey Probst

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#6. Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:59:18 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale I have three Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 tires for sale. These were some of the last that Tire Rack had in stock. They were purchased in March and have about 5/32s of tread. I can send pictures if needed. Contact me privately if interested. AJ

Reply to: DiVincenti, A.J.

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 11:41:10 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale I have one more if you want to make up a full set. Mine has about the same tread. Dave Kelley > Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:59:18 -0500 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 For Sale > > I have three Michelin Pilot MXX3 235 40 17 tires for sale. > These were some of the last that Tire Rack had in stock. > They were purchased in March and have about 5/32s of tread. > I can send pictures if needed. Contact me privately if > interested. > > > AJ > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > > >

Reply to: Dave Kelley

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#8. $170 finned diff cover? - from andy radin
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 08:50:17 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@fourfa.com> Subject: $170 finned diff cover? Anyone heard of this item? No connection, just curious: andy r. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- M-Coupe Rear Differential Cover Kit $ 169.00 Replacement Differential Cover Kit For Extra Cooling Will Retro-Fit to all E30, E36 Chassis 84'- 98' Comes with all necessary Hardware, Gasket and Seals Excellent for Increased Heat Dissipation for Differentials A Must for Track Use! 31332225813 Weight: 5.00 lbs. http://www.eap4parts.com/en-us/dept_939.html

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#9. Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:50:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! on 7/28/02 7:23 AM, <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> wrote: > Can someone with the ETK look something up please? > > I am trying to install a 140 amp alternator on my '95 M3...upgrading form > the 80 amp standard. > > Now if I'm not mistaken, the 140 amp was an option on our cars, correct? > Well, the pulley is the problem...the old one has too much of a shoulder on > the back. I ordered one that was for a 328 with the 140 amp alternator, but > it has NO shoulder on the back. It needs approximately 5-6mm of shoulder. > > Could someone poke around and see if they can come up with the right pulley > and alternator combination? I've found multiple different pulleys listed for the M3, but they're all for the various 80A alternators. The two different 140A M3 alternators I found are depicted only as complete assemblies, without separate listings for their drive pulleys. However looking at the 328i I found two different pulleys listed for the 140A alternator: 12 31 1 703 736 12 31 1 432 988 You could find out which one you have, and assuming they're reasonably inexpensive, buy the other to see if it fits properly. However I've also found an earlier (95 325is) 140A alternator that uses a larger (61.8mm vs. 55.0mm). So it seems as if there are multiple possibilities here, maybe plenty more than I've come across so far. If you give more info about the alternator you're trying to use it may be possible to narrow the field. Bosch or Valeo P/N? What car model and year was it originally intended for? I'm going to assume as a working hypothesis that different makes/models of alternator may take pulleys with different offsets due to mechanical design variations. > If all else fails, I guess that I could have the original turned down at a > machine shop...do 1mm at a time and test fit in the parking lot, but I would > prefer to have the correct one from the start. And that could turn out to be the least bad option. But do we know that it's even the right diameter? Neil 96 M3

Reply to: Neil Maller

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#10. Cooling System - Check this! - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:10:44 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Cooling System - Check this! [Cross-posting to several lists to cover a large audience] Last month I found myself stranded in Philly because of the failure of a $5 part. The part in question? The cooling system bleeder screw! It's located on the top of the radiator. It's present on E34 and E36 cars, and probably other models as well. What I learned from the dealer is that this part fails because the plastic becomes brittle with age, heat cycling, and being under tension. When it fails, it no longer seals the cooling system, so the cooling system won't be able to pressurize, and the coolant will boil at a much lower temperature. My advice? Go to the dealer, pick up TWO of these: 17-11-1-712-788 (List $5.76 each) Replace the one that's currently in your car, and keep the other one in your glove box. As I said earlier, it fits the E34 and E36 models, but I'm not sure if it fits other models. Hope this helps someone! -rb _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com

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