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#1. [E36M3] Dash mounted CD - from Low, Roan
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:25:25 -0500 From: "Low, Roan" <Roan_Low@Keebler.com> Subject: [E36M3] Dash mounted CD My 98 M3 does not have a CD changer, and before I ran out to buy one I was wondering if there is a BMW factory headunit with a built in CD player that would fit? Thanks, Roan.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 - from morris.michael@tiax.biz
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 17:34:55 -0400 From: morris.michael@tiax.biz Subject: Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 Alex and Stanley, One thing to consider is that a Salvage title does not always refer to a car that has been wrecked or flooded. I have seen cars (actually an E30 M3) that had a salvage title because it was stolen, then recovered after the insurance company processed the loss. There are some great deals to be had on Salvage title vehicles, one must be very careful and diligent when shopping. Look for DOT-R stickers on the body panels. That will tell you what was replaced, and where (if at all) it was hit. Mike Morris 95 M3/2 wanabe rally racer (especially after the Maine Forest Rally!) From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Stanley Chang <schang@gene.COM> wrote: > > I'm new to the list. I have the opportunity to purchase a salvage > title 98 M3 with 21,000 miles.... > ....How much should I pay for this car assuming that it is 'correct'? > I want to make sure the car is put back together properly I do not believe there is such a thing as a 'properly' put together salvage title car. alex f
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#3. Re: how do I adjust toe? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 17:48:40 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: how do I adjust toe? Bill, You usually have to heat the damn things quite a bit until they loosen up. I adjust my toe very often (I experiment with my autocross and track alignments at least once every month) and they always require a torch to get them loose. Even if they have been loosened within the previous week, they lock up pretty quick. Also, take a huge wrench to hold the threaded rod while you heat and twist the steering rack rod so you don't put any pressure on the ball joint at the end of the tie rod. As far as adjustments, the tie-rods are in front of the wheels, so to toe a given wheel "in", you need to shorten the tie rod. FWIW, on the street and track, my car seems to work best with zero front toe, for autocross I like a little bit of toe-out. Vern Anderson 98 M3 -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 11:05:55 -0700 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: how do I adjust toe? Sorry for the length of this... So I get my 99 M3 back from having the strut hats swapped and now my steering wheel is about 5 degrees off center (to the left) when the car is going straight. I figure the steering wheel wasn't quite straight when they set the toe. I know the shop would be happy to redo the toe if I brought it back, but it's a hassle getting rides to and from the shop when I have to leave the car there. Since I try to do as much work on the car as possible myself anyway, I thought I'd try to do this myself as well. From info I've been able to find in the Bentley and the forums, changing toe sounded fairly easy. Measuring it accurately is obviously a bit more difficult, but I figured if I change each tie rod length by exactly the same amount in opposite directions, I'd end up with the same toe and still get the results I want (I just may need to experiment to get exactly the right amount.) I figured I'd mark the current positions so I can always at least get back to where it is now, plus I can borrow a toe gauge to verify that I'm at least close with my final toe. Well, I got under the car yesterday to have a look, and I'm still not sure about the process. I know I need to first loosen the lock nut between the inner and outer tie rods, but then what? At first I thought you put a wrench on the inner end of the inner rod (right next to the steering rack bellows) and turn there, but when I turn there, that side of the bellows turns with it while the other side (with the clamp) does not. It was twisting the bellows, so that can't be right. Unless the outer end of the bellows is siezed to the rod there, and I first need to break it loose? I just don't see anything else in the inner/outer tie rod assembly that you can turn to change the length of anything. What am I missing? Also, if I want a given wheel to toe *in* more, I need to lenghten the tie rod on that side (I'm going from memory that the outer tie rod connects to the *rear* of the wheel)... is that correct? - Bill
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#4. Euro floating rotors - why? - from K Quistorff
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:03:27 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Euro floating rotors - why? I'm strongly considering buying another second set of brake rotors to be used w/race pads for track schools. There seems to be some hype out there about the Euro M3 floating rotors, but I'm not convinced they are worth more than twice the price of Brembo OEM replacements. I know the floating design translates to a little less unsprung weight (aluminum hat vs. steel) and the floating design is intended to minimize the chance of warping when the rotors get really hot, since the rotor can "grow" somewhat independent of the hat, but are these really significant issues with E36M3's? Do the Euro rotors really offer any significant advantages when driven on track, or are they just hype? Also, has anyone found any better prices than $108 ea. for the floating rotors (Pacific BMW) or $47.64 ea. for the Brembo OEM replacements (Performance Motorcars)? Thanks! Keith Quistorff 1996 M3 Cary, NC
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#5. Tools - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:00:46 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Tools Just a quick note about a couple of 'tool' and buying related experiences I had recently. I received a flyer from Sears Craftsman this weekend and as always, I flip through it before I pitch it. This time, I noticed a new 3/8" ratchet they have that they claim is slimmer. I went to check it out as I had one item to return anyway (no receipt none the less). Needless to say, Sears had no problem taking back the one open wrench I had and I bought the new 3/8 slim ratchet (Craftsman Professional Thin Profile Ratchet, 3/8 in. Drive). Anyway, it works better than any ratchet from Sears I have owned and is indeed very slim. This worked great on a couple of items I did this weekend where normal ratchets aren't quite thin enough (brake work around the brake line fittings for example). Here is a web link for it: http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0917171106.1027979057@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccadcfkjjigkicehgcemgdffmdfjj.0&vertical=TOOL&fromAuto=YES&bidsite=CRAFT&pid=00944995000 Also, I placed an order with Tools Plus (http://www.tools-plus.com/). They offer excellent prices (with a low price guarantee) and their website works very well. There communication after the sale is impressive as well as there expeditious shipping. This is my second order with them and they always impress. I finally bought a set of reversible metric Gear Wrenches from the Tool Warehouse (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/). Again, great prices (I saw used sets of eBay going for nearly as much and new sets for more) and great shipping and good communication. Lastly, I got excellent customer service from UUC Motorwerks recently but that has come to be expected. No affiliation with any of the above companies. Later, Rich
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#6. Dealer and shop recommendations in the Southbury, CT area? - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:01:16 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> Subject: Dealer and shop recommendations in the Southbury, CT area? My in-laws are smitten with my M3 and would like to buy most likely a used 3 series. Most likely they will use a dealer and get a "certified" used car but I will encourage them to go private and get a serious inspection from some place that a hard core track nut would trust to inspect their car for safety. Please send to me off-list with recommendations and please let me know how much experience you have with the dealer and such. dspragg@attbi.com Thanks, Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com Natick, MA 99 M3 Sharked Garage Queen (for sale on Turner site to buy truck) 92 330is Sharked #330 I Prepared ____________________________________________________________________ eMail Privacy Protected by QuarantineMail (http://www.quarantinemail.com) Licensed to: dspragg@attbi.com
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#7. O2 socket and Koni Klunk - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 17:12:30 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: O2 socket and Koni Klunk Hi, Gang- Can someone point me to a source for an O2 sensor socket? And any advice on unfreezing it would be greatly appreciated. I split the ring on my 22mm spanner for the wires and made it a stubby but when it started requiring All My Might, the prongs began to spread and slipped (slight rounding, thus why I'm looking for a good socket to compensate. Doh!) I'm also trying to locate the source of a klunk over larger bumps that sounds like it is or is next to the left RSM. I set my rear SA's to 1 turn from full soft (out of 2.75 turns possible) which was about 14 seconds from full compression to full extension. I had them set to almost zero before and the back was way too squishy on H&R OE Sport springs. Now it's nice and planted, but now It's isolated a few anoying klunks I'm trying to track down. The big one (on big, sharp bumps) sounds like the bolts on the RSMs are loose, but I've made access panels and I check them every time I stop out of paranoia and they're solid. I can't get the muffler (original) to rattle, but the mounts have a lot of play in them. Could it be banging on the sheilding underneath? Another higher, jangly sound seems to be coming from around the brakes, since if I've got them lightly applied while going over a large enough bump, the sound is gone. I poked and proded the calipers, and everything is tight so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts anyone? Thanks, Steve
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#8. and it all started with....Sanding Rotors... - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:23:01 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: and it all started with....Sanding Rotors... Mel, >>but I'm amazed that she hasn't said anything about the H&R Sport springs that have been sitting on my workbench in the garage, in plain view, for at least a month??? Where is my wife and who is this imposter?<< Never mind that...Stop pressing your luck, and get those things in their final resting place, b/4 their final resting place becomes the selling dealer! :--) Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:42:52 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 > I do not believe there is such a thing as a 'properly' put together salvage > title car. Those two concepts are a contradiction of terms. > If the car could have been properly put together for less than 75-85% of > its value prior to the accident, the insurance company would have done so > and repaired it. Since it has opted not to, that means that whomever did > the repairs had to cut a lot of corners to make the car look good and still > sell for a deep discount. I have owned a couple of salvage title cars in my time (not my M3), and have been very satisfied. I think the key question is whether the rebuilder is willing to work for less per hour than the insurance company estimated, work more quickly than the insurance company estimated (faster than book rates on repairs) and/or have the availability of less expensive parts (which does not mean lower quality). So, I think there is an opportunity when buying salvage title cars. Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#10. Re: $170 finned diff cover? - from Allen Reyes
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:12:55 -0700 From: "Allen Reyes" <allenrey14@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? I have one here waiting to bolt up. It's an OEM part in the original BMW box. The difference is extended cooling fins which are all connected at the end. It's a nice looking part but it doesn't extend the diff fluid capacity like the Rogue one. According to Eurasian, it bolts right up to my E36 M3. Allen 98 M3 Anyone heard of this item? No connection, just curious: andy r. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- M-Coupe Rear Differential Cover Kit $ 169.00 Replacement Differential Cover Kit For Extra Cooling Will Retro-Fit to all E30, E36 Chassis 84'- 98' Comes with all necessary Hardware, Gasket and Seals Excellent for Increased Heat Dissipation for Differentials A Must for Track Use! 31332225813 Weight: 5.00 lbs. http://www.eap4parts.com/en-us/dept_939.html _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com