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#1. Koni Klunk - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 20:42:17 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Koni Klunk >>The big one (on big, sharp bumps) sounds like the bolts on the RSMs are loose, but I've made access panels and I check them every time I stop out of paranoia and they're solid<< Yea, so were mine...Thats why I took off the bolts and examined the shock tower under them..Brush away any build up dirt, and get a flashlight or something on it so you can see it clearly..I found a quarter inche crack or sheet metal tear under the rearmost RSM bolt...Fix is happening next Monday..Dealer is farming out to their body shop, where they will take to plates which look like a part of a separate shock tower top, complete with bolt holes, and opening for the shock top. They will weld one below and and one above the shock tower top, sandwiching the top, providing a more solid structure for the RSMs, as a permanent fix, and provide a stronger structure than when it left the factory.. Please remove your bolts and examine closely. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 14:12:44 -0500 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! Here's a little more info: The pulley I have from the 328 is 12 31 1 738 067. This is the pulley with no shoulder. It fits the diameter of the shaft of the 140 amp alternator perfectly, so the shaft diameters maybe all the same? (a hypothesis anyways) The alternator I have is a Bosch # AL0739X (X being rebuilt?)...the BMW Part# I started off with was a 12 31 1 744 563, this according to the local stealer superseded to a 12 31 1 744 567...I ordered the latter number from Zygmunt (good service and price on this order, incidentally...price is still worth the hassle, so far). Alternator bolts up to the front cover mounting points perfectly. Where I probably screwed up is with the original 80 amp being a Valeo? Thanks for any help, Andrew Joseph ajoseph1981@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Cc: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 10:50 AM Subject: Re: Alternator pulley - H*lp! > on 7/28/02 7:23 AM, <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> wrote: > > > Can someone with the ETK look something up please? > > > > I am trying to install a 140 amp alternator on my '95 M3...upgrading form > > the 80 amp standard. > > > > Now if I'm not mistaken, the 140 amp was an option on our cars, correct? > > Well, the pulley is the problem...the old one has too much of a shoulder on > > the back. I ordered one that was for a 328 with the 140 amp alternator, but > > it has NO shoulder on the back. It needs approximately 5-6mm of shoulder. > > > > Could someone poke around and see if they can come up with the right pulley > > and alternator combination? > > I've found multiple different pulleys listed for the M3, but they're all for > the various 80A alternators. The two different 140A M3 alternators I found > are depicted only as complete assemblies, without separate listings for > their drive pulleys. > > However looking at the 328i I found two different pulleys listed for the > 140A alternator: > 12 31 1 703 736 > 12 31 1 432 988 > You could find out which one you have, and assuming they're reasonably > inexpensive, buy the other to see if it fits properly. > > However I've also found an earlier (95 325is) 140A alternator that uses a > larger (61.8mm vs. 55.0mm). So it seems as if there are multiple > possibilities here, maybe plenty more than I've come across so far. > > If you give more info about the alternator you're trying to use it may be > possible to narrow the field. Bosch or Valeo P/N? What car model and year > was it originally intended for? > > I'm going to assume as a working hypothesis that different makes/models of > alternator may take pulleys with different offsets due to mechanical design > variations. > > > If all else fails, I guess that I could have the original turned down at a > > machine shop...do 1mm at a time and test fit in the parking lot, but I would > > prefer to have the correct one from the start. > > And that could turn out to be the least bad option. But do we know that it's > even the right diameter? > > Neil > 96 M3 >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? - from Ed Yee
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 23:19:53 -0400 From: "Ed Yee" <edyee@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? Dave, When you were adjusting the rear shocks, did you fully compress the piston rod so that it engages the internal adjusting cam? You'll know if the cam is engaged if the piston rod sinks slightly as you turn and continue to apply pressure. Visualize a screw driver blade aligning with the slot in screw head. You must also keep a lot of pressure inward as you turn, the cam disengages easily due to high extension pressure of the piston. Took me a couple of tries to do both of mine. There's about 5 half turns from full soft to full stiff. HTH Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 10:43 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? > Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:40:22 -0400 > From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? > > I just got a set of Koni SA's for the rear of my 98 M3. One of the > shocks never stopped turning as you adjusted it. But the rebound did > change.... there was just no stop for either hard or soft! The other > shock was okay. > > I ended up just changing the setting on the second shock to have > about the same rebound as the first. I set them in a vise and > compared the speed that the shocks extened after being compressed. > > Was this second shock defective? > > Dave > > > Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 19:33:55 -0700 > > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings? > > > > Bob, > > > > OK, I will go first. Here is answer #1 of 10: > > > > For me, with stock springs, full stiff in rear worked out > > best. It was still comfortable on the street. For front, > > somewhere between 1 and 1.5 turns from soft worked out well. > > The front of course is easy to work out on you own, since > > you can adjust between runs, and find what works best. I > > would start full stiff in rear for autox. YMMV and all > > that. > > > > Chris > > 97 M3/4 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > Group, > > > > > > At the risk of getting ten replies and ten different > > > responses, I will > > pose > > > my question anyway. As always, I value every reply based > > > on each owners concept of what they were exactly trying to > > > accomplish. Well, I'm > > purchasing > > > Koni SA's all around and would like them adjusted to help > > > minimize > > understeer > > > when autox'ing, but comfortable enough for the street > > > since the M is my > > daily > > > driver. She already has Eibach sways (with reinforced > > > rear mounts), > > X-brace, > > > and JTD RSMs with Z3 plate, but staying with OEM springs > > > for now. > > > > > > How many turns from full soft front and back works best? > > > > > > TIA, > > > > > > Bob Gill > > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > > Philly Region SCCA > > > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > > > BSP Champion 2001 > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************ > > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > > available in the list's GET directory. GET > > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************ > > * > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#4. Re: Euro floating rotors - why? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:34:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Euro floating rotors - why? on 7/29/02 6:23 PM, "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> wrote: > I'm strongly considering buying another second set of brake rotors to be > used w/race pads for track schools. There seems to be some hype out there > about the Euro M3 floating rotors, but I'm not convinced they are worth more > than twice the price of Brembo OEM replacements. I know the floating design > translates to a little less unsprung weight (aluminum hat vs. steel) and the > floating design is intended to minimize the chance of warping when the > rotors get really hot, since the rotor can "grow" somewhat independent of > the hat, but are these really significant issues with E36M3's? Do the Euro > rotors really offer any significant advantages when driven on track, or are > they just hype? > > Also, has anyone found any better prices than $108 ea. for the floating > rotors (Pacific BMW) or $47.64 ea. for the Brembo OEM replacements > (Performance Motorcars)? > > Thanks! > > Keith Quistorff > 1996 M3 > Cary, NC On these rotors there are two schools of thought: 1) They are consumable items, so you should buy the cheapest rotors of acceptable quality, and replace them whenever necessary due to wear or warping. 2) The Euro (aka 2-piece or floating) rotors cool significantly better and are more warp resistant, extending their life and justifying the much higher price. In addition to the floating rotor feature you mention there are other theoretical design advantages: - Air inlets from both sides for improved self-cooling. - Minimized heat sink path to hat may help protect wheel bearings. - Symmetrical heat sink path to hat should prevent rotor dishing. I've been following plan #2 and it's worked for me. Others are just fine with plan #1. For serious track use ducting is a good idea in either case, and of course track pads as you mention. Guess you could install one of each kind of rotor and see which performs better ;) Neil 96 M3
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#5. Stainless Steel Brake Lines - from The Buch
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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 21:33:03 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Stainless Steel Brake Lines Would appreciate a quick note re the best type and source of SS lines for the E36 M3. Thanks, Doug
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#6. Re: $170 finned diff cover? - from Steve Walsh
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 00:14:19 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? Hey Allen, you got a part number on that box ?? At 06:23 PM 7/29/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:12:55 -0700 >From: "Allen Reyes" <allenrey14@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? > > >I have one here waiting to bolt up. It's an OEM part in the original BMW >box. The difference is extended cooling fins which are all connected at the >end. It's a nice looking part but it doesn't extend the diff fluid capacity >like the Rogue one. According to Eurasian, it bolts right up to my E36 M3.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 09:06:09 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Salvage 98 M3 >Alex and Stanley, >One thing to consider is that a Salvage title does not always refer to a >car that has been wrecked or flooded. I have seen cars (actually an E30 >M3) that had a salvage title because it was stolen, then recovered after >the insurance company processed the loss. There are some great deals to be >had on Salvage title vehicles, one must be very careful and diligent when >shopping. This is how I got my track car ('94 325i). It had been stolen out of Boston and was missing a few parts but was otherwise in terrific shape. Turning it back into a street car would have been a bit of a project, but considering the miles (40K) it would still have been cost efficient. Had I wanted to title it, I would have had to have a DMV inspector come out and certify that it was roadworthy. But, since this is track only, I didn't have to go through all of that. For anybody looking to build a track car, I think this is a great way to go. For the street I would do as stated above and look very closely to see if there was crash or flood damage before going with a salvage car. Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325i #335 KP This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#8. RE: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 09:27:34 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> wrote: > > Does anyone have the part numbers for the radiator mounting > hardware that's needed to do a radiator replacement job? Mark, You do not really need any new parts. However, I would buy one spare plastic clamp that holds the radiator to the nose of the car. There is a 50% chance you will break one of the two clamps holding the old one in place before you figure out how they disengage (BTDT). All rubber mounts can be replaced. I would also strongly recommend to replace the plastic thermostat housing with a metallic one. Throw in a new thermostat while you are in there as well. Add a new metallic impeller water pump if your car's build date is before 6/96 (or whenever). Depending on the age of your car and desired track worthiness, it may also be a good idea to replace all the coolant hoses. alex f
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#9. Re: [E36M3] O2 socket and Koni Klunk - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:41:04 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] O2 socket and Koni Klunk Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > > Can someone point me to a source for an O2 sensor socket? And any > advice on unfreezing it would be greatly appreciated. Steve, Any auto parts store will have one. Just make sure it's the right size in mm's. 02 sensors are a PITA to remove. I would soke one up in liquid wrench the night before. > I'm also trying to locate the source of a klunk over larger bumps > that sounds like it is or is next to the left RSM. I set my rear SA's > to 1 turn from full soft (out of 2.75 turns possible) which was about > 14 seconds from full compression to full extension. I had them set to > almost zero before and the back was way too squishy on H&R OE Sport > springs. Now it's nice and planted, but now It's isolated a few anoying > klunks I'm trying to track down. > The big one (on big, sharp bumps) sounds like the bolts on the RSMs > are loose, but I've made access panels and I check them every time I > stop out of paranoia and they're solid. I can't get the muffler > (original) to rattle, but the mounts have a lot of play in them. Could > it be banging on the sheilding underneath? If the RSMs are tight and the strut tower in one piece, check the RSM to shock bolt. I had traced one rattle to that bolt that had either worked itself loose or never got properly tightened by the stupid mechanic in the first place. Also do not exclude the possibility that something is rubbing in your new suspension setup. You do not mention the year of your car, but my '95 gets some sway bar (Eibach) to control arm and muffler to right rear rim contact under some conditions. Check the above components for any rub marks on your car. > Another higher, jangly sound seems to be coming from around the > brakes, since if I've got them lightly applied while going over a large > enough bump, the sound is gone. I poked and proded the calipers, and > everything is tight so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts anyone? Could be anything from a missing outboard brake pad clip, broken in board pad clips, loosely fitting aftermarket pads or broken emergency brake mechanism. BTDT on all of the above. HTH, alex f
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#10. Driving School - from Danny Mok
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 11:05:19 -0700 From: Danny Mok <DMok@pcyc.com> Subject: Driving School Anyone wants to share his/her experience at the High Performance Driving School in Sears Points or Laguna Seca?