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#1. FS: OEM CD Changer - from Dahlstrand, Kurt
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 14:30:34 -0400 From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <kdahlstrand@empirix.com> Subject: FS: OEM CD Changer Well, I have pulled the CD Changer out of my car and putting it up on the auctioning block. My head unit was acting up on me so I just recently replaced and, therefore, have no need for my changer anymore. The changer is from a '97 M3. It is in mint condition with the bracket, carpet cover, and one 6-disc cartridge. I'm looking to get $250, but other offers will be entertained. Pictures are available upon request. p.s. If anyone has any interest in the head unit let me know. It had a recurring problem of randomly shutting off. I didn't feel like spending $150 for the dealer to send it back to Alpine or attempt to open the unit myself. Kurt Dahlstrand '97/M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: $170 finned diff cover? - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 15:54:32 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: $170 finned diff cover? Before a ton of people run out to try to put the BMW M Coupe diff cover onto their E36 M3s, I'm sure I'm not the only person that will tell you it won't fit. Probably a typo on the Eurasian website. The M Coupe BMW cover will fit on an E30 style diff (small pumpkin), with it's single hole mounting ear. The diff in the E36 requires both ears to be there to mount into the rear subframe. Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 > Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:12:55 -0700 > From: "Allen Reyes" <allenrey14@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? > > > I have one here waiting to bolt up. It's an OEM part in the original BMW > box. The difference is extended cooling fins which are all connected at the > end. It's a nice looking part but it doesn't extend the diff fluid capacity > like the Rogue one. According to Eurasian, it bolts right up to my E36 M3. > > Allen > 98 M3 > > Anyone heard of this item? No connection, just curious: > > andy r. > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > M-Coupe Rear Differential Cover Kit $ 169.00 > > Replacement Differential Cover Kit For Extra Cooling > > Will Retro-Fit to all E30, E36 Chassis 84'- 98' > Comes with all necessary Hardware, Gasket and Seals > Excellent for Increased Heat Dissipation for Differentials > A Must for Track Use! > > 31332225813 > Weight: 5.00 lbs. > > http://www.eap4parts.com/en-us/dept_939.html > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#3. FS: Set of SSR Competition 17x8.5" w/ Toyo T1-S tires - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 17:04:48 -0400 From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: FS: Set of SSR Competition 17x8.5" w/ Toyo T1-S tires Hey all - Just seeing if anyone may be interested in my 17x8.5" SSR Competition wheels with 235/40-17 Toyo T1-S tires. Price would be $1250 from the Washington DC area + shipping of course. They would be coming off my 1995 E36 M3. If you live in the northeast, I can arrange for a pickup/drop-off location so you can save on shipping. The rear tires have about 1/2 tread left and the fronts have about 2/3 of the tread left. The wheels are perfect with no scratches and would come with BMW center caps. Pics can be found at http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41091 Please e-mail me at wes@nicolas.org if you might be interested. Thanks, Wes '95 M3
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#4. Re: Klunking and O2 - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 17:11:38 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Klunking and O2 Thanks to all who've replied- I had a nice lunch today driving across the city and getting a feel for the suspension mods and klunks and I'm fairly certain the rear shocks and mounts are fine. I've tripple checked 'em for snugness and when I was working on them this weekend, I did get my head right in there with a flashlight and look for any stress fractures or excessive loading, but everything was solid. I still get a klunk over sharp bumps and I'm suspicious of the muffler hangars as well as the fluid I see on the tranny and rear diff, so I'm going in for my Insp II Monday to have the whole thing sorted out. At one turn up from full soft on the rear and 1.5 up on the front, M feels like a champ. Hard to quantify the X-brace since I made all the changes at once. The car really feels planted, but there is a nimbleness of the steering that I've lost. Even with the old suspension (original at 105K) just breathing on the wheel would send the front end slicing like a knife in that direction as if guided by thought. After the Streetline install and alignment, I had the rear full soft and the fronts one turn out. There was a hesitation in the car's response that felt like it took a split second to shift its weight before transitioning. Now the car feels solid and connected, but still responds a little late and with less enthusiasm than it originally did. Needless to say, I'm trying to get back to that immediate feeling. I recall seeing a chart of the various changes in handling characteristics caused by adjustments of each component, but I haven't found it again. Does anyone know of what I'm referring and where it might be? I'm feeling a sickness coming on again, and I don't know if the car is the cause or the cure. Thanks again, all- Steve
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#5. Re: $170 finned diff cover? - from Allen Reyes
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 15:28:19 -0700 From: "Allen Reyes" <allenrey14@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? It doesn't fit guys and girls. Eurasian agreed to a refund. Allen Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 00:14:19 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: $170 finned diff cover? Hey Allen, you got a part number on that box ?? _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#6. Anybody use "HOT LAPS" - snake oil??? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 19:22:36 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Anybody use "HOT LAPS" - snake oil??? Hi Group, This might be a little off topic, but has anyone used the above product on their track or autox tires? My Kumho's are nearing the end of their life, and if this product can give me some extra grip for three to four more autocrosses, I'm game. Is this product a waste of money or money well spent????? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#7. Re: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 00:36:04 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? alex.fadeev@verizon.com writes: > However, I would buy one spare plastic clamp that holds the radiator to the > nose of the car. There is a 50% chance you will break one of the two clamps > holding the old one in place before you figure out how they disengage > (BTDT). All rubber mounts can be replaced. > I would also strongly recommend to replace the plastic thermostat housing > with a metallic one. Throw in a new thermostat while you are in there as > well. > Add a new metallic impeller water pump if your car's build date is before > 6/96 (or whenever). > Depending on the age of your car and desired track worthiness, it may also > be a good idea to replace all the coolant hoses. > > alex f You might also replace the two (2) fan belts while you have everything out and easy access. You have to take the belts off anyway to replace the water pump. Just don't let Alex buy the belts for you unless you want to go insane listening to the belts squeal for the next 10,000 miles! [Hi Alex] Get higher quality (at least made in the USA) belts than the POS made in Korea belts sold by AutoZone. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#8. Re: Euro floating rotors - why? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:33:51 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Euro floating rotors - why? I have to echo Neil's comments - Method #2 has worked very well for me. I currently have About 16 track days on my Euro floating rotors and they still seem fine. No cracks at all (not even the little tiny heat ones), still well above minimum and look like they will be good for a few more track days. I run PF90/PF97's, which do seem to always be easy on rotors and I duct them with the Bimmerworld backing plates. And I'm not driving all that slow and easy either (no smartass comments needed here Verenna) - most of those days are 1:48's at Mid-Ohio and 1:17's at Nelson, plus some Glen, Summit and now Beaver Run thrown in there. I have two new sets of the disposable $60 Bembo's (Method #1) ready-to-go in my garage, but the Euro's seem to be holding on to the death. I'll probably try the Bembo's this fall. I doubt if they will last as long, but of course if they do, then method #1 will be the way to go. As always, YMMV and all disclaimers apply. Vern Anderson 98 M3 -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:34:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Euro floating rotors - why? on 7/29/02 6:23 PM, "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> wrote: > I'm strongly considering buying another second set of brake rotors to > be used w/race pads for track schools. There seems to be some hype > out there about the Euro M3 floating rotors, but I'm not convinced > they are worth more than twice the price of Brembo OEM replacements. > I know the floating design translates to a little less unsprung weight > (aluminum hat vs. steel) and the floating design is intended to > minimize the chance of warping when the rotors get really hot, since > the rotor can "grow" somewhat independent of the hat, but are these > really significant issues with E36M3's? Do the Euro rotors really > offer any significant advantages when driven on track, or are they > just hype? > > Also, has anyone found any better prices than $108 ea. for the > floating rotors (Pacific BMW) or $47.64 ea. for the Brembo OEM > replacements (Performance Motorcars)? > > Thanks! > > Keith Quistorff > 1996 M3 > Cary, NC On these rotors there are two schools of thought: 1) They are consumable items, so you should buy the cheapest rotors of acceptable quality, and replace them whenever necessary due to wear or warping. 2) The Euro (aka 2-piece or floating) rotors cool significantly better and are more warp resistant, extending their life and justifying the much higher price. In addition to the floating rotor feature you mention there are other theoretical design advantages: - Air inlets from both sides for improved self-cooling. - Minimized heat sink path to hat may help protect wheel bearings. - Symmetrical heat sink path to hat should prevent rotor dishing. I've been following plan #2 and it's worked for me. Others are just fine with plan #1. For serious track use ducting is a good idea in either case, and of course track pads as you mention. Guess you could install one of each kind of rotor and see which performs better ;) Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:48:47 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] radiator mounting parts? LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > > alex.fadeev@verizon.com writes: > > However, I would buy one spare plastic clamp that holds the radiator to > > the nose of the car. There is a 50% chance you will break one of the two > > clamps holding the old one in place before you figure out how they > > disengage (BTDT). All rubber mounts can be recycled. > > I would also strongly recommend to replace the plastic thermostat housing > > with a metallic one. Throw in a new thermostat while you are in there as > > well. > > Add a new metallic impeller water pump if your car's build date is before > > 6/96 (or whenever). > > Depending on the age of your car and desired track worthiness, it may > > also be a good idea to replace all the coolant hoses. > > > > alex f > > You might also replace the two (2) fan belts while you have everything out > and easy access. You have to take the belts off anyway to replace the water > pump. Lowell is right. I forgot about those. > Just don't let Alex buy the belts for you unless you want to go insane > listening to the belts squeal for the next 10,000 miles! [Hi Alex] Get > higher quality (at least made in the USA) belts than the POS made in Korea > belts sold by AutoZone. OTOH, If your choice is between a POS squealing-special AutoZone belt or Lowell's pantyhose, I say go with the Mexican belts... '-) alex
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Stainless Steel Brake Lines - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:50:32 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stainless Steel Brake Lines At 09:43 PM 7/29/02, The Buch wrote: >Would appreciate a quick note re the best type and source of SS lines >for the E36 M3. Fischer lines from Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage: http://www.ultimategarage.com/brakemsc.html That's the set I have on the M3. Cheers, Jim Bassett