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#1. Re: [E36M3] how to remove rear window - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:46:43 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] how to remove rear window I believe you need a special L-shaped tool to cut through the adhesive. Obviously, a glass replacement shop will have it. Nick > Hi, > > I am looking for tips on how to remove the rear window on an E36 M3. I have the rubber gasket removed. I need advice on how to separate the window from the adhesive used to seal the window to the body frame. > > Thanks. > > David
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#2. Re: [E36M3] oily spark plug - from Robert Liu
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 06:55:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Robert Liu <bob_a_liu@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] oily spark plug Sounds like a valve cover gasket. I have no direct experience with it on the S50, but I've seen it on several other OHC engines. Bob --- Jonathan Evans <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:43:29 -0400 > From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > Subject: oily spark plug > > List Folks, > Changed my spark plugs yesterday (95m3, 85k > miles, Mobil 1 10w-30) and > found that cylinder #3 had oil on top of the spark > plug. It seemed to be > seeping down into the threads of the plug, so it was > definitely coming from > the top. At least a teaspoon if not more was pooled > in there. > > I had the old waterpump failure about a year ago > with a 5 second overheat. > Head gasket thingy? > > Please enlighten me as I'm not as familiar with the > s50 as I should be. > > FYI, replaced the bosch with NGK BR somethings > platinum and the car runs > much better when it's first started up after sitting > overnight. Don't know > if that behavior is from the new brand of plug, or > just new plugs after 35k > miles. > > -Jonathan > 95 m3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== ------------------------------------------------------------ Robert Liu bob_a_liu@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com
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#3. Fuel filter retrofit 5/94 to later? - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:05:22 -0400 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Fuel filter retrofit 5/94 to later? I guess I'm a glutton for punishment - I've actually changed the filter on my 5/94 TWICE, by myself...I never realized there was such a drastic change in the 95 model from the 94, but it brings up the obvious question of the possibility of a retrofit. Does anyone who has seen both setups care to comment on whether or not I can buy the mounting bracket from a 95 and retrofit it next time I do the filter change? ChipM From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 Fuel filter - what a pain. Murray writes: > Replaced the fuel filter on my '95 M3, build 4/94, today. What a pain > in the ***! My filter was located above the left front motor mount and > is very difficult to access. I hear you!!! I once helped a friend replace the fuel filter on his 4/94 M3. It took the two of us 3+ hours working at the same time from the top and bottom to get the silly filter off. I don't know how you did it all by yourself. You have my admiration! I hate to tell you this, but your fuel filter really should have been replaced years ago. I'm sure it is part of the Inspection II. I replace my fuel filter more often than that even, every 25-30K miles. Sorry to tell you that you ought to replace it again in less than 2 years. Don't call me for help. This is the ONE repair/maintenance I won't ever do again. <grin> Lowell Seaton 9/95 M3 - 5 minute fuel filter change Dallas, Texas
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Royal Purple Syncromax - great stuff! - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 18:09:00 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Royal Purple Syncromax - great stuff! It's either 1.3qts or 1.6qts (one's the diff, the other's the manual tranny) I'm pretty sure it's 1.3 qts but I don't think you'll get the store to sell you a partial bottle ;) -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > And to ask another one, apparently. ;) How many bottles of the Mobil 1 > should I pick up? I can't remember if it's one or two. > > Jonathan
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#5. re: rear suspension clunking - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 07:18:19 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: re: rear suspension clunking Try opening up the trunk, then grabbing the inner edges and shoving the car side to side to recreate where you can hear. There's a secondary arm that comes down in back. think its a camber setting arm that was loose where it connects by the hub on my E36 325i many years back. Like you, I looked at all the traditional culprits, and only identified it when I shook the car like that with someone lying down by the muffler, listening and watching. Marc Plante E36 325i, 202k (happily tired from track and skidpad duty this weekend) Vienna, VA
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#6. Re: oily spark plug - from Ward, Chris
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:47:40 -0400 From: "Ward, Chris" <CWard@ContractLumber.com> Subject: Re: oily spark plug Jonathan Evans writes: Subject: oily spark plug >>List Folks, >>Changed my spark plugs yesterday (95m3, 85k miles, Mobil 1 10w-30) and >>found that cylinder #3 had oil on top of the spark plug. It seemed to be >>seeping down into the threads of the plug, so it was definitely coming from >>the top. At least a teaspoon if not more was pooled in there. You'll need to buy a valve cover gasket set. It will include a rubber gasket that fits between each spark plug cavity and prevents oil from leaking into your spark plug's. It only takes about a 1/2 hour to an hour to replace the gasket's. This would have been the best time to replace your spark plugs, since you have to remove the coils and plugs. Chris Ward Contract Lumber cward@contractlumber.com
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#7. Re: Oily spark plug - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 09:48:30 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Oily spark plug on 8/5/02 8:45 AM, "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > Changed my spark plugs yesterday (95m3, 85k miles, Mobil 1 10w-30) and > found that cylinder #3 had oil on top of the spark plug. It seemed to be > seeping down into the threads of the plug, so it was definitely coming from > the top. At least a teaspoon if not more was pooled in there. > > I had the old waterpump failure about a year ago with a 5 second overheat. > Head gasket thingy? Not head gasket since the oil is above the plug. More likely the cam cover gasket, which has individual oval-shaped O-rings around each plug well, as well as a large seal around the periphery. When you take it off you should replace the whole set. Neil 96 M3
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#8. Re: Rear Suspension Clunking - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 10:00:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear Suspension Clunking on 8/5/02 8:45 AM, "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > I'm hoping someone might have some insight on a problem I'm having > with a clunk in my rear suspension. > > Symptoms: > On hard left turns, a clunking sound can be heard from the left rear > suspension. This happens on slower/harder turns (not sweepers) when > the left rear is the most unloaded. > > Recent changes/inspections: > In the last couple of months, I have replaced springs (Eibachs) and > shocks (Koni SAs), shock mounts (stock), trailing arm bushings (stock) > and installed Z3 reinforcement plates. The mounting hardware for the > exhaust system has also been replaced. > > Over the weekend, I checked the shock mounts and towers for cracks as > well as the rear trailing arm mount holes and found no visible > cracking (my original fear). I also didn't notice any broken sway bar > mounts or end links, but didn't look very closely. > > Anyone have any ideas on what this could be? It's driving me nuts and > I want to get it fixed before Gman next week. - In my experience you can't necessarily spot stock E36 shock mount deterioration without taking them off the car and flexing via the central bushing with a screwdriver. Use E46 M3 mounts if you're not already. This is your wife's daily driver, right John? So you want to keep it more or less civilized? - Sway bar contacting muffler at/near full droop? (Especially with aftermarket swaybars.) - Do check carefully for swaybar mounting tab damage. - Defective shock? (Least likely.) Neil 96 M3
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#9. re: If I wanted a small quantity, I'd buy some from him - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:00:44 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: re: If I wanted a small quantity, I'd buy some from him I think one could obtain a hydrometer at any wine/beer homebrew store.... http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?va=hydrometer Kim L Burgess 767 Liaison - WIC (425)266-5721
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Oily spark plug - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:03:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Oily spark plug We were talking about the 3.0L, right? p/n 11 12 9 070 531 is the gasket set that Neil is talking about. For the 3.2L, p/n 11 12 9 070 532. Chester > Not head gasket since the oil is above the plug. > > More likely the cam cover gasket, which has individual oval-shaped O-rings > around each plug well, as well as a large seal around the periphery. When > you take it off you should replace the whole set. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com