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#1. Loctite on oil pump nut - from FAS302@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 18:36:37 EDT From: FAS302@aol.com Subject: Loctite on oil pump nut Chester, I'm the guy to talk to. I have a 95 M3 w/ a done motor at only 66k. The bolt spun off and that's all she wrote. When the light on the dash goes on, it's usually to late. The light is set off when the pressure drops to some ridiculously low level that it doesn't matter anyway. The motor has to be shut down pretty much right away for any chance of saving it. This happens to cars that are tracked mostly, but has happened on street cars. I have a handful of autox's under my belt and some drag racing. Stickley told me he uses Loctite and wire. If you spin the car and the motor turns over backwards, chances are the bolt will loosen. It is reverse threaded. Unfortunately, the design of the oil pump sucks. The design is similar in all 3 series and other models, from what I understand. I have done a lot of research because of this mess. Wish someone could have told me in advance. HTH, Evan
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#2. Trailing Arm Part #'s - from racebro@santacruzbicycles.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:46:59 -0700 From: racebro@santacruzbicycles.com Subject: Trailing Arm Part #'s Listers, After some underbody inspection, I think that it may be time to do the trailing arm bushings. At the risk of asking the same questions ad nauseum (like all of the internet BB's) what are the part numbers for the trailing arm bushings. I promise that I already checked the archive to no avail. A lot of references to the procedure, but no numbers. Bob Tunnell had recommended going to the 96+ bushings, so those be the ones that i'm looking for. Chester, keep that trailing arm bushing tool handy, 'cause I'll be needin' it too. :) Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. (831) 459-7560 x 30 jason@santacruzbicycles.com http://www.santacruzbicycles.com begin 666 ATT00005.htm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`` ` end
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Part #'s - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 19:07:44 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Part #'s 33.32.2.228.153 should be the 96+ bushings. i'd suggest you look into the Ground Control shims too. they remove much/most of the deflection of the bushing. $60 for 4 shims. rich From: racebro@santacruzbicycles.com > Listers, > > After some underbody inspection, I think that it may be time to do the > trailing arm bushings. At the risk of asking the same questions ad nauseum > (like all of the internet BB's) what are the part numbers for the trailing > arm bushings. I promise that I already checked the archive to no avail. A > lot of references to the procedure, but no numbers. Bob Tunnell had > recommended going to the 96+ bushings, so those be the ones that i'm looking > for. > > Chester, keep that trailing arm bushing tool handy, 'cause I'll be needin' > it too. :) > Jason Lombard
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#4. Tricky DICKS in Florida - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 23:23:32 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Tricky DICKS in Florida Be careful... http://www.miami.com/mld/miami/3845127.htm A.L. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#5. Anybody have source for OEM E36 M3 control arms? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 19:23:15 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Anybody have source for OEM E36 M3 control arms? Does anyone have a source for OEM E36 M3 control arms that are less expensive than from BMW dealers (w/discount)? I am only interested in control arms made by the original manufacturer much like Lemforder does for the aluminum E30 control arms. Thanks. Geof
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#6. For Sale!!! Momo shadow shift knob - from Cesar Omar Torres
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:51:06 -0400 From: "Cesar Omar Torres" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: For Sale!!! Momo shadow shift knob Start at 40.00 at EBAY Momo shadow shift knob. This shift knob retails for anywhere between $75-$95. The shifter is in excellent condition and comes with all accessories, Paypal accepted, and shipping will be $6.00. Good luck, and happy bidding. Fit all BMW 3 series including M3 Auction ID 18151522540 Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851525540
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Anybody have source for OEM E36 M3 control arms? - from Eric ///M Foster
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:00:31 -0500 From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anybody have source for OEM E36 M3 control arms? Geof asks: >Does anyone have a source for OEM E36 M3 control arms that are less >expensive than from BMW dealers (w/discount)? Try (James at) Bimmerworld. www.bimmerworld.com or (540) 639-9648 One of the best sources of OEM parts online that are top quality. If they sell it, it's OEM quality or better... Eric M. Foster http://bmw.jedinite.com
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re:shark injector - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:56:06 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re:shark injector Same here! I bought a Sears battery charge JUST FOR this operation. I haven't needed one since I sold the racecar, so now that I have one again, maybe it's time to get a new racecar, eh? Mel -----Original Message----- From: twisty M3 [mailto:twistym3@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 4:02 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re:shark injector Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 13:56:23 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re:shark injector Agreed! Why risk having your car disabled and needing to send you DME in? Doesn't sound fun to me. A battery charger is a relatively inexpensive thing to pick up (got mine at Sears) and could come in handy in the future anyway. If you don't have one, and don't want to buy one, but live in SoCal, you're welcome to borrow mine if you're within a respectable distance of Ventura (or going to Fontana this weekend). Jonathan L. >From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > >Read and follow the instructions exactly. > >The instructions call for attaching a stable power supply (ie. battery >charger) to the battery to prevent voltage fluctuations to the car which >may >cause the upload/download to fail and leave the ECU in a confused state. > >I highly recommend doing what they say. Attached my Sears charger and all >went smoothly. > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. [E36M3] Oil pump safety wire deal - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 19:12:43 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Oil pump safety wire deal Does anyone know the exact procedure for safety wiring the oil pump nut? Is it actually a nut, or a bolt? I want to do this procedure. It so happens that my motor is out while having some accident repair work done. I asked the BMW tech if he could accomplish this mod while the motor was out. He's trying to locate a place to get the ??? drilled. Or, trying to find a source for the ??? that has already been drilled. I have a fairly short window of opportunity. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks - Jay 97 M3/2
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Loctite on the oil pump nut - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 22:29:20 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <" skip.bogard"@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Loctite on the oil pump nut Keep in mind there are TWO red Locktites. 271 is low temperature and 272 is high temperature...BOTH ARE RED!!!! - Skip > From: <nabli@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Loctite on the oil pump nut > > Chester, > > You need to use loctite #272 for your application. > > It is a high temp/high strength application with a temp range of up to ~400 > degrees F and it's also impervious to oil. > > See: http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_272.pdf > > Cheers, > Jim E. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 2:51 PM > Subject: [E36M3] Loctite on the oil pump nut > > > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 11:49:34 -0700 (PDT) > > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Loctite on the oil pump nut > > > > Does anyone know if loctite will hold in the extreme environment of an > engine? > > Thinking of dropping the pan to check the oil pump nut and was wondering > if the > > extreme heat and oil would render the loctite useless... > > > > TIA, > > Chester > > > > ===== > >