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#1. Re: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:32:37 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation My mistake....Ive been leading you guys astray...Inadvertently, of course! The fan shroud is on each side of the fan...its a vertical oriented piece.. What Ive been referring to as the fan shroud, incorrectly, is really the radiator cover! Or sometimes called 'air shroud'...its the black plastic horizontal piece that stretches from headlight to headlight, and covers the radiator and aux cooling fan. I found out why it doesnt come out when you remove the fasteners....Its cause there are plasic tabs on the front lip, that hold it in place, as well as anchor the grills. My mistake was trying to pop it up in front and force it off...I think what you need to do is to slide it rearwards after the fasteners are off....With a little force, it should slide back, and free the tabs... At least, so Im told! Now that I cracked mine, I need a new one....Functionally there's no reason to replace it..And if you open the hood, you wont even notice it unless you look for it. And the fasteners are holding down the 2 'pieces', separated by the crack...But you can lift it up at the crack easily...And, just knowing its there is bothersome. Would you guys replace it, or leave it? If youd replace, anybody know the part number or price? My part's cd doesnt show or list it, for some reason. thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 9:11 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation > That's what we had to do. > > It's not attached but fits snuggly around the fan and completely surrounds > it. There was no way to get the fan out without the shroud or the shroud > without the fan, other than pulling the radiator, probably not the best > idea. > > Maybe one of the pros can give better advice but I couldn't figure any other > way. We pulled the radiator anyway since we were replacing the pump, > thermostat cover and all the hoses. > > Carey > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] > Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 12:32 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation > > > Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 00:32:11 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation > > Oh! Thats a shocker...I didnt realize...NO wonder I couldnt get it > out...its attached to the Fan! Huh! Never would have figured... > > So, now that Ive managed to crack mine, how do I manage to install a new > one...first I guess I need to remove it AND the fan, and take them out > together? But, as I recall, to remove the fan, you need to loosen (reverse > threaded) the fan nut...Then it comes out easy...But you say they come out > together...Does this mean whenever you remove the fan, the shroud comes out > with it? How is it attached to the fan, if any body knows.... > > Thanks. > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" > <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:24 PM > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation > > > > I think it's pure magic. > > > > I haven't pulled mine on the M3 but have on my son's 325 which is > basically > > the same. > > > > It was easy to get lose but couldn't remove from the radiator without > > removing the fan. > > > > Fortunately we were installing the metal pump on his as a preventive > measure > > so had to remove the fan anyway. > > > > If I remember, Bentley says remove the fan as well. When you get it off, > > they both come out nicely but neither would come without the other. > > > > Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters > > Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced > > > > A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, > > the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] > > Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:32 PM > > To: E36M3 > > Subject: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation > > > > > > Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 18:35:25 -0400 > > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > > Subject: Fan Shroud removal/installation > > > > I dropped something today down behind there, and needed to remove the > black > > plastic fan shroud...I removed the 4 phillips screws I had access to, and > > the plastic body expander rivet...I expected it to just lift off at that > > point, but naturally, No Way...Moreover, I couldnt for the life of me > figure > > out what was holding it...I was able to force up part of the front of it, > > but that was all...Even that portion I was able to lift really made a loud > > snapping nose as each attachement either was lifted, or broken . Bottom > > line is I forced too much, and cracked it..I just put all the screws and > > expansion rivet back ...The crack wont hurt any function, but I want to > buy > > a new one cause I dont like to keep the broken one...But first, I want to > > hear from one of you guys how this thing is attached, and removed. > > > > thanks. > > > > Paul Elliott > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank > pulley: > > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni > Suspension; > > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > >
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#2. [E36M3] Instrument Cluster - Dim area between 90-110 mph - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:57:12 -0400 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster - Dim area between 90-110 mph Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone had experience with a dimly lit area of their speedometer. The whole instrument cluster is perfectly bright, but the area btwn 80-110 mph on the outside edge fo the speedometer is lit, but dim. The area still varies in intensity when you adjust it with the dimmer switch. This doesn't really seem like the bulb is out, does it? Do they use plastic optical pieces to channel the light, and has one of those moved? Has anyone fixed this? Does the "tamper" light come on if you open up the cluster to take a look? Thanks, Colin '98 M3/2
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#3. While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:00:11 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: While the oil pump subject is on the table... I bought my gauges, harness and face plate from Eastern Motorwerks which has the proper VDO Vision series with an 80psi gauge. You can buy the entire kit from him and this would be the easiest. http://www.easternmotorwerks.com/products.htm Jamie is very hard to get a hold of (one man shop I presume). The rest of the items I bought from BMW and the oil distribution block was a custom unit that was put together by KMS and myself. The JTD oil distribution block would not work with my oil filter housing as the design is different than oil filter housing used by Jim Powell and JTD when they designed there ODB. BMW is good at changing suppliers and engineering designs in the middle of a product run. Brett Anderson and I investigated and found many other 1995 E36s and prior which has a similar oil filter housing as I which would not work with the JTD ODB. Jim Mihal hadn't heard of this problem when I discussed it with him so YMMV. Anyway, Brett is going to produce this ODB which will work with all E36s as well as other models and allow for an additional sender. I am not sure when so you would have to contact him. Later, Rich
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#4. [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:02:30 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] Fan Shroud removal/installation Paul says > > Oh! Thats a shocker...I didnt realize...NO wonder I couldnt get it > out...its attached to the Fan! Huh! Never would have figured... > How is it attached to the fan, if any body knows.... The shroud is not attached to the fan. The shroud is a tight fit and the fan fits within the shroud but they do not make contact (unless something is wrong). Generally, there just isn't enough room to pull the shroud without removing the fan at the same time and slipping them up and out together. This is even true in my E30s. Anyway, remove the fan and slide them out together. They are in no way attached to each other. Later, Rich
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#5. Rear Speaker Replacement - Installing 6.5" speakers - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:14:43 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Rear Speaker Replacement - Installing 6.5" speakers >>Anyways, no more blown speakers, and there's much better "fill" than before. Now, I'm going to have to replace the crappy fronts, and then the amp...<< Colin, as I was upgrading my stock non hk system, I did the front kick panels with Polks first....I got a little more bass out of them...But even if you change all your speakers, the improvement will only be marginal...Thats because the stock amp is so lousy. And the HU isnt much better. Before you start to layout alot of money on just speakers, realize that the biggest bang for the buck will come from other components...For instance, I found that replacing the head unit made a huge difference in quality. But really, to do it right, as Im sure you know, you need to replace every part of the system..I wound up going with JL audio stealthboxes in the rear deck instead of the rear fill you just installed. Thats because with a good head unit and amp, the rear fill is disposable, and youll get all the sound youll need out of a set of good front woofers and tweeters...I went with polk here, although there's a wide choice of good component speakers. Good luck. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Rear Speaker Replacement - Installing 6.5" speakers - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:01:26 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Speaker Replacement - Installing 6.5" speakers Haha.. calling your stock system crappy and then talking about your 6.5" driver? Try the stock system in my '95, complete with 4.5" rear drivers.. :P it has DEFINITELY been replaced. - reid On 8/16/02 05:31, "Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com" <Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:29:19 -0400 > From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com > Subject: [E36M3] Rear Speaker Replacement - Installing 6.5" speakers > > > Hi guys, > > Well, I blew one of my rear deck speakers last night, and this in a car > where I rarely ever turn the volume up at all! It's the crappy stock > system (non-HK), with get this, OEM Nokia speakers! Aren't they supposed > to make cell phones! > > Anyways, since I was looking for a quick solution (since I'm not a big > audiophile) and was going to put the stock crap back in, I decided to take > a trip to the local audio chain. Prior to this, I removed the rear speaker > assembly, opened the sealed speaker enclosure (with a bunch of careful > prying with screwdriver) and ripped out the 6 1/4" speaker. I tested > fitted a few speakers at the store, and found that Polk's 6.5" almost fit. > (For real audiophiles, I sure there are much better speakers in 6.5" that > will fit). I grabbed a pair of their EX365s and went home for some custom > work :) > > I made a number of cuts with my dremel along the circumference of the > circular top piece that mounts to the rear shelf, so that it would spread > open a bit when I pressed the slightly larger speaker into the opening. > With about 8 cuts, I could just barely press the new speaker into the > existing opening. The friction fit is so tight, it's never coming out. > Finally, I re-attached the plastic bucket that encloses the speaker with > some clear sealant and a few screws to hold it in place. No need to change > any wiring since the new and the old speaker had the same connectors. > > Anyways, no more blown speakers, and there's much better "fill" than > before. Now, I'm going to have to replace the crappy fronts, and then the > amp... > > A nice little upgrade actually, and it looks totally stock. > > -Colin > '98 M3/2 (JC intake + soft, Dinan suspension, X-brace, Polk speakers...) > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 11:14:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: While the oil pump subject is on the table... on 8/15/02 6:04 PM, David Bauer at dbauer@blkbox.com wrote: > Neil, > Are you thinking of Eastern Motorwerks? They have a kit with an 80psi > gauge and wiring harness. > http://www.easternmotorwerks.com/products.htm Well, I didn't think I was! Both ECIS and Eastern Motorworks appear to be selling the same kit, and using the same photo of it on their web sites. Both photos show a 150 psi gauge installed, but another lister told me that his Eastern kit came with the 80 psi version. So if anyone is confused, join the club! My 2 cents: - BMP's standard kit comes with the inappropriate 150 psi gauge, and no wiring harness. Not a good buy. - ECIS and Eastern both offer wiring harnesses, and that's a Good Thing. - Whoever you buy from, make sure they offer the 80 psi gauge (and matching sender). Neil 96 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] overheating question - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 11:19:29 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] overheating question "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> wrote: > > I have a '97 328is that overheated the other day. It did not > boil over but did climb into the red but was able to stop and > cool things down and limp home. My guess is the thermostat > and/or water pump. David, If you were able to limp home it is unlikely to be the water pump. Without water pump circulating the coolant though the engine you would get instant overheating. > Any suggestions on how to determine if the > water pump still works and if the thermostat is good without > removing them? David, Getting the thermostat out is brain dead simple. Unscrew four bolts (three 10mm and one 13mm) and remove the hosing (follow the hoses coming out of the radiators - you can't miss it). Take the thermostat out and go to the kitchen. Now start cooking the thermostat in a pot of water, observing the temperature when it starts opening. If it's anywhere around 80C, the $15 thermostat is OK and you need to look for problems elsewhere. If not, replace it. > Did the 97 328is have the plastic impeller in the water pump? I believe not. IIRC the orgininal plastic water pump impeller cut off date is 06/96. alex f
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Popping our of gear - from Scott McClung
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:30:28 -0700 From: Scott McClung <scott.mcclung@ubicom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Popping our of gear Sounds like these tranny's or the linkage is very touchy. Not at all like the 6-speed in my '91 Vette which is also built by ZF. Scott Hi, I have a '95 w/70K on her and sometimes when I'm getting ready to shift if feels like the shifter was just barely in the present gear. It feels like all I have to do is touch the shifter and bam I'm out of gear. Some of this is do to pilot error, I may not have the clutch fully engaged, but it's very disconcerting when it jumps out of gear w/ a mere touch to the shifter stalk. It doesn't seem to happen very often, but when it does it's kind of scary. Can you have the car in a gear only partially or is that impossible? That's kind of what I would equate it to. It's just like I barely have in gear and only a slight touch will make it pop out of the that gear. I just have to be very vigilant about making sure I have it fully in the gear of choice. I hope I'm not gradually wearing out the syncro. That's my two cents worth. Evan ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:50:48 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... At 07:01 AM 8/16/02, Dorffer, Rich wrote: >The rest of the items I bought from BMW and the oil distribution block was >a custom unit that was put together by KMS and myself. The JTD oil >distribution block would not work with my oil filter housing as the design >is different than oil filter housing used by Jim Powell and JTD when they >designed there ODB. BMW is good at changing suppliers and engineering >designs in the middle of a product run. Brett Anderson and I investigated >and found many other 1995 E36s and prior which has a similar oil filter >housing as I which would not work with the JTD ODB. Jim Mihal hadn't >heard of this problem when I discussed it with him so YMMV. Any more info on this, Rich? What to look for? Since the gauges are going into the 1993 325is, and I was planning on using the JTD block, any help is appreciated. (I've already returned the BMP gauges - on Neil's advice, thanks Neil - and will be contacting either ECIS or Eastern. I want a water temp gauge in place of the voltmeter, and a faceplate to fit the radio spot.) Jim Bassett - no bad news (yet) today