-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
Top
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:23:23 -0500 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... Gruppe: I have an early 94 production 95 M3 and I used the JTD distrubtion block with no problem...I did however mount it 180 out form JTD's reccomendation. They reccomend that the oil pressure sending unit be pointing to the passenger side of the car and I mounted it with the oil pressure sender pointing off to the driver's side. The wire going to the factory idiot light switch would be nicer if it was about 20mm longer, however it does reach in this orientation. No real problems that I know of...threads on the sender always sweat a thin film of oil, am going to try another half turn on the sender to see if that helps. Just another data point. Andrew Joseph ajoseph1981@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:17:33 -0700 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... > > At 11:57 AM 8/16/02, Dorffer, Rich wrote: > >http://www.apexcone.com/Gauges/oct12_07.jpg > >http://www.apexcone.com/Gauges/oct12_08.jpg > > > >Anyway, see where the JTD Block attaches and the lower sending unit > >threads into the bottom of the block, since mine is flush (like most E36s > >from 1995 and before), the lower sending unit will interfere with the > >housing and you are unable to properly tighten the banjo bolt to the > >housing causing it to leak severely. > > Thanks for pointing out what to look for, Rich. > > I've got a color printout of the photo and will be heading to my mechanic's > tomorrow morning to check the housing. > > Jim
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] weight loss - from Eric ///M Foster
Top
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:55:07 -0500 From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] weight loss > I am sure some of you know how to calculate what this equates to in horsepower or torque. General approximation is that 10 pounds = 1 horsepower. So you've "gained" approximately 5.3 horsepower. And as a bonus, weight loss also benefits braking and handling, not just acceleration... -Eric M. Foster http://bmw.jedinite.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] weight loss - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 20:03:26 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] weight loss So if I loose the weight my doctor tells me to that's like adding 10 hp to the car? Cheap horsepower if it works. Maybe that's the incentive I need. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Eric ///M Foster [mailto:e36m3digest@jedinite.com] Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 5:02 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] weight loss Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:55:07 -0500 From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] weight loss > I am sure some of you know how to calculate what this equates to in horsepower or torque. General approximation is that 10 pounds = 1 horsepower. So you've "gained" approximately 5.3 horsepower. And as a bonus, weight loss also benefits braking and handling, not just acceleration... -Eric M. Foster http://bmw.jedinite.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Slack in throttle cable? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 10:44:43 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Slack in throttle cable? I know its been touched on before, but is there a specific amount of play necessary in the cable? I just skimmed through my whole Bentley manual and it said nothing on the cable and how to adjust it. Anyone have specs and how to tighten it? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. BMW illuminated wood knob OEM - from Cesar Omar Torres
Top
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 19:16:30 -0400 From: "Cesar Omar Torres" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: BMW illuminated wood knob OEM For Sale! BMW illuminated wood knob with the M logo 5 speed, pictures available $85.00. Cesar Torres Orlando Fl 407-761-0750 407-281-0163
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 21:35:11 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... At 12:21 PM 8/16/02, Jim Bassett talked about: >Thanks for pointing out what to look for, Rich. > >I've got a color printout of the photo and will be heading to my >mechanic's tomorrow morning to check the housing. Looks like the oil filter housing on my car is the "flush" type, and won't work with the JTD block. However, Bill's shop being what it is, has a "proper" oil filter housing that he'll retro-fit onto my engine, allowing use of the JTD block. Thanks again to Rich for pointing out the differences (and Jim Mercado for have the donor housing at Bill's <g>). Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP - running by the end of the week? fingers crossed
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. installed uuc clutch arm bushings - from Zack Steinkamp
Top
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:09:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: installed uuc clutch arm bushings list -- just wanted to share my experience with installing & using the UUC clutch arm bushings... the product costs $20. probably $0.50 worth of materials in there -- two plastic (nylon?) bushings and two very thin metal (aluminum?) washers -- but the new pedal feel is **definitely** worth the twenty bucks. the downside is, the instructions are really sparse that come with it. i'm pretty inexperienced with working on my M3 (i've replaced the belts -- that's about it), so maybe this would work for a mechanic or someone who's taken a lot of the car apart before. here are the instructions verbatim, and my comments after each one. hopefully this will help someone else like me install them, or provide inspiration for UUC to include more thorough instructions... "1. remove all underpanel components under dash" pretty vague, eh? well, this means to remove the panel above the pedals (three philips head screws) and then the knee bolster behind it (three 10mm bolts). no need to remove the wiring harnesses, steering wheel column, or anything else down there ;-). to remove the panel, push the right side up near the console to free it from the console, then pull it to the left and back towards you. there are two plastic clips on the far left side of the panel that are holding it on. they are aligned so that you need to pull the panel toward the back of the car to free it. unplug any connectors, from the panel, including the one from the lamp. there is a small connector attached to the knee bolster. remove the screws on either side of the connector so you can take the bolster out of the car. remove the three 10mm bolts from the bolster and set it aside. "2. remove the two circlips on clutch arm" well, there are actually three. one at the top at the pivot point, one attaching the hydraulic cylinder piston to the pedal, and another connecting the clutch spring to the pedal. the ones to remove are the top one at the pivot point and the one holding the pedal spring on. "3. remove the clutch arm" sounds so simple, right? well, it wasn't easy for me. here's how i did it -- and i never actually "removed" the arm from the car... - after you've removed the circlip, push the pin holding the spring apparatus out of the pedal with a thin screwdriver. pushing the spring apparatus toward the front of the car, remove the screwdriver. hopefully the spring apparatus will drop out. realize at this point that you should really put some newspaper on the carpet to keep the grease off. - remove the two bolts on the left side of the pedal that hold the brake/clutch switches and the hydraulic clutch cylinder. the bolts are 10mm. one you can see, the other is behind the black metal flange holding the clutch switch on. unplug and set aside the switches. - grabbing the top of the pedal, slide it to the left off of the shaft. the left bushing will probably fall out by now. you'll have to work a bit to get the right one off. note that you will never just pull the pedal out of the car. "4. replace bushings." the new bushings are a really tight fit. i used channel lock pliers to press them in -- my hands weren't strong enough. i put some grease on just to make sure there wouldn't be any squeaking. put one of the washers from the UUC kit onto the pivot shaft, then slide the pedal onto the shaft. keep it held firmly while you put the other washer onto the end and replace the circlip (my complements to the engineers on the design of these things -- easy to get on and off). "5. compress spring in vice, secure with two zip ties." i threaded the zip ties through the spring and stepped on it (poor man's vise) while pulling the ties tight. i realized that my zip ties were too thick to put the plastic caps back on, so i took one out. i'm not sure if you really need to do this because... "6. reinstall is reverse of disassembly" what a cop-out ;-) - put the ends back on the spring, and put the metal dowel pivot thing back through the hole on one of the caps (a diagram would help here -- sorry). - position the top pivot of the spring apparatus back into place in the carrier (the end that's not attached to the pedal) - pull the pedal back toward the back of the car, and you should be able to position the spring apparatus so that you can put the metal dowel that holds the spring apparatus to the pedal back into place. - reattach the circlip on the spring apparatus. put the switch apparatuses (apparati?) back into place with the bolts that were there. put the bottom bolt on first. it goes through the bottom hole of the clutch-only switch, and is held by a nut that probably fell off on the other side. put the other bolt through the top hole of the clutch-only switch, and have someone push the brake and clutch pedals as you position the brake/clutch switch apparatus. thread the bolt through and get it started on the flange's built-in nut. tighten both bolts. the mechanical part is now done -- push on the pedal and marvel at its solidity and silence. ;-) replace all the wiring connectors, and screw the knee bolster back in place. put the little connector back on to the bolster with the two screws. put the underpanel back up, making sure to get the right side of it back behind the console, and then work on the plastic clips on the left side. reattach the three screws, put the "so my passenger can't see the screw head" plastic cap back on the rightmost screw, and you're set! the clutch pedal now feels more BMW-like. definitely how it should have been designed ;-). overall, a good product with a need for more thorough instructions. -zs
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Climate Control Issue - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:03:44 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Climate Control Issue I have been working to identify a problem with my climate control for a while in my '96 M3 Lux, it intermittently turns off and on. I recently removed my computer, so I can reach behind and manipulate the wires in the back of the climate control. I have found by applying pressure to the primary connector of the climate control, I can usually get it to stay on. The connector itself is firmly connected with no obvious issues, so I wonder if it is a cracked board or connection inside the climate control. Has anyone else had this problem and identified how to determine the cause? Thanks, Stan Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Top Speed? - from Michael Michalski
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:42:04 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Top Speed? Good Morning Guys, Hope everybody had a great weekend. Have a quick question pertaining to the speed governor's in our cars. If I'm not mistaken, the limit is supposed to be 137mph stock right? The reason I ask, is because this past weekend I had the "opportunity" :) to test the max on my way to moving my brother into college in Bloomington Normal Illinois. I was in the left lane and finally was able to get around a car that I swear had to be driving in first gear for at least 20 miles and wouldn't move over to let us pass......grrrrrrr. Anyway, I started to accelerate and never stopped. The car felt awesome. It just wanted to keep going. I was able to get it up to 145 with the AC on!!! I am sure that the car is not sharked and the road was completely flat and straight. So I'm wondering......did BMW lie?? How is the governor supposed to work? I can't imagine too many people actually test this out or have the "opportunity" to. Mike Speed Racer (last name withheld, sorry Johnny Law) :) Windy City Chapter ///97 M3 4DR AT
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. good tire place in socal? - from benjamin chang
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 07:17:58 -0700 From: benjamin chang <ben@mrclam.com> Subject: good tire place in socal? Hi group, this is my first message to the list....recently my rear right tire has been slowly leaking air. I attempted to have a tire shop patch the tire, but no more than a week later, leak is back. I'm not sure what I can do about this and plan to simply replace both rear tires now, and the front tires a few months down the line, or sooner if needed. I am thinking about trying out the new Kumho Ecsta MX's that are supposed to be coming out soon and I don't know where the best place to take the car to have the tires mounted and balanced would be. If anyone could help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated! TIA! Ben 97 M3/2
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. Re: [E36M3] Top Speed? - from Robert Chay
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:20:44 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Top Speed? BMW has always been known to be opptimistic with their speedo. You can get the exact speed with the OBC (press ave speed and then reset for current speed). 146-147 is about the highest I've heard for a stock M3. I know I wasn't doing 165mph when I was driving thru the desert from CA to NJ even though the speedo was indicating it. -Bobby 98 M3 sharked and some other stuff ps. Your full name is in your e-mail address as well as your e-mail alias :P ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> <snip> > So I'm wondering......did BMW lie?? How > is the governor supposed to work? I can't imagine too many people actually > test this out or have the "opportunity" to. > > Mike Speed Racer (last name withheld, sorry Johnny Law) :) > Windy City Chapter > ///97 M3 4DR AT >