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#1. what kind of tape? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:39:12 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: what kind of tape? Most of the black electical tape I see in the stores give both a minimum and maximum temperature at which its supposed to be effective..I guess it means that above or below, it doesnt stick so good and will tend to unravel. The max temps Ive seen are 176 degrees F. Now, I dont know how hot it gets under the hood, but I suspect it can get hotter than this, especially with a Turbo or Supercharger sitting under there. Shrink wrap is good, but its not applicable for all situations. Sometimes, when you need to tape up a series of joins, tape is the only answer, where you can stretch it and pull it into different shapes and sizes to cover. Anyway, does anybody know a type of tape we can use which has super stick ability at the hottest under hood temps we might encounter? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Slack in throttle cable? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:53:20 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Slack in throttle cable? Alex, >>..I know its been touched on before, but is there a specific amount of play necessary in the cable? I just skimmed through my whole Bentley manual and it said nothing on the cable and how to adjust it. Anyone have specs and how to tighten it?<< Id love to hear any answers you get to this...But in the meantime, do NOT do what I did...ie, under hood, you will see two threaded barrels that influence cable takup near the throttle body, but below and to the rear of it...One is for the cruise control, and the other is for the throttle...My throttle peddle, if you push on it lightly, had maybe 1/4" to 1/2" play in it before you could feel it starting to actually pull on the cable...I attributed this to unneeded slack, and proceeded to remove most of the slack by backing off on the threaded barrel....But....the result was a quick stab to the floor managed to snap the end right off the cable...And unlike the olden days, where you could fashion a temporary end of some sort to the cable so you could still drive, with the current apparatus, if you snap the cable, youre pretty damn stuck....So, take it from me, make sure you know what youre doing before trying what I did. And if its this small amount of slack youre trying to get rid of, well, Id say forget it, and live with it. Its meant to be there! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. RE: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 12:14:26 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... Rob says > > I had the same problem in my 5/94 production year 95 M3. Nice oil mess. > anyway you can still use the JTD block, but not the bottom port. This > needs to be blocked off with the extra bolt that is supplied with the part. > I purchased another pressure sender from VDO that did both the gauge and > the idiot light on the dash. Wow, this is the first I have heard of someone else having the problem. I figured that there were some others but no one has ever mentioned it that I have seen and I figured they either didn't I can vouch for the oily mess :-) I agree that the bottom port is the source of the problem as once a sender is installed in that port, it will interfere with the oil filter housing. One nice item on the KMS oil distribution block is the bottom port is still available for use along with an additional rear port. Also the first I am hearing of an alternative pressure sender from VDO. Any more information on that sender? How did you come up with your solution as JTD was absolutely no help to me two years ago when it first occurred? Regards, Rich
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#4. Rotor Tools? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:22:23 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Rotor Tools? I have a set of front rotors I'll be putting on this week with the aid of Ron's instructions that I printed out, but I have those at home and can't remember if these things were mentioned. I attempted to go to Barne's & Noble and buy a Bentlely, but all they had was the Haynes manual. That just said "remove the rotor," with no details. Needless to say, I didn't bother buying it. What tools (incl. sizes) will I need in addition to what I'd use for swapping out brake pads? Are there torque specs to retightening anything there, or is it just "as tight as you can get it?" I think that's it. Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#5. Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Rob Verenna
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 12:21:30 -0400 From: Rob Verenna <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? At Monday, 19 August 2002, "Wesley A Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> wrote: >Just took my car (1995 M3) in for a 4-wheel alignment and it >cost me $141. I thought it was a bit expensive and wanted >to know what people are paying these days. The shop >(Curry's Auto Service - Chantilly, VA) says the M3 is >"special" and costs more to align. Wes- I paid somewhere in that vicinity to get my '95 M3 aligned by a shop that I trust completely. This was only a few months ago. I know at least one other E36M3 list member is there all the time (Hi Vern!) and he will also attest to the fact that they do not over charge (more like undercharge). I have no personal experience with Curry's, but they are highly thought of by people in that area on some other BMW/car enthusiast lists I'm on. As another point of comparison, my truck cost me $150 to get aligned, and it's a Ford! My opinion, it just seems to be the going rate of a good four wheel alignment. - rob =================================================================== EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://Mailreader.com/ ===================================================================
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#6. Re: [E36M3] installed uuc clutch arm bushings - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:32:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] installed uuc clutch arm bushings group -- a few minutes after sending this, i got a message from Matt at UUC telling me that they had already updated their instructions! i must have gotten one of the last kits with the old ones... zs --- Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:09:30 -0700 (PDT) > From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> > Subject: installed uuc clutch arm bushings > > list -- > > just wanted to share my experience with installing & > using the UUC clutch arm bushings...
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#7. E36M3 Inspection II - from matthew c. mead
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:12:26 -0400 From: "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> Subject: E36M3 Inspection II I'm about to do an Inspection II myself. Where can I get the 3 (I think?) filters that are supposed to be changed in the environmental system? Thanks. -matt -- matthew c. mead 97 Dakar M3/4 - sharked, xbraced 97 White GS-R/4 - stock (wife's) 92 Black Miata - dropped, dampened, headed towards SM http://www.goof.com/~mmead/
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#8. RE: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... - from Robert Manger
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:22:40 -0400 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... Rich I can't recall where I bought the sender, but I'll find a part number for it. My solution was more out of desperation, this kind of thing always happens when its dark out and I need the car the next day. I noticed that the JTD block wouldn't fit flush after dry install, but don't let that stop me from starting the car to confirm an oil leak, jacka$$. Anyway. I just removed it and then put in the extra bolt and then found the correct sender that would do both. I did call JTD when I did the install back in '00, and they hadn't heard about it not fitting at that time either. They were nice enough to send me some cool factory like connectors that I could use to splice for a factory look to the idiot light, I didn't want to cut that connector. Rob "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndi To: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> ans.com> cc: <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] While the oil pump subject is on the table... 08/19/02 12:14 PM Rob says > > I had the same problem in my 5/94 production year 95 M3. Nice oil mess. > anyway you can still use the JTD block, but not the bottom port. This > needs to be blocked off with the extra bolt that is supplied with the part. > I purchased another pressure sender from VDO that did both the gauge and > the idiot light on the dash. Wow, this is the first I have heard of someone else having the problem. I figured that there were some others but no one has ever mentioned it that I have seen and I figured they either didn't I can vouch for the oily mess :-) I agree that the bottom port is the source of the problem as once a sender is installed in that port, it will interfere with the oil filter housing. One nice item on the KMS oil distribution block is the bottom port is still available for use along with an additional rear port. Also the first I am hearing of an alternative pressure sender from VDO. Any more information on that sender? How did you come up with your solution as JTD was absolutely no help to me two years ago when it first occurred? Regards, Rich
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:25:30 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? 7mm hex (stubby) for caliper guide bolts (40ft/lbs? med tightness) 6mm hex for rotor set screw (15-20ft/lbs? not too tight) 17mm socket (or 18mm) for caliper bracket (70-80ft/lbs range) BFH incase the rotor is frozen on the hub 4 beers (for the first time, 1 or 2 if you have experience) Of course there's torque specs for the bolts but I don't know them off hand. Careful with the 6mm bolt. You really don't want to strip this. Make sure the allen wrench is in there snug. There's a plastic plug over each (2) caliper guide bolt. Oh... don't forget to take off the wheels (17mm bolts) :P -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > I have a set of front rotors I'll be putting on this week with the aid of > Ron's instructions that I printed out, but I have those at home and can't > remember if these things were mentioned. I attempted to go to Barne's & > Noble and buy a Bentlely, but all they had was the Haynes manual. That just > said "remove the rotor," with no details. Needless to say, I didn't bother > buying it. > > What tools (incl. sizes) will I need in addition to what I'd use for > swapping out brake pads? > > Are there torque specs to retightening anything there, or is it just "as > tight as you can get it?" > > I think that's it. > > Thanks, > Jonathan L. >
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#10. Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 12:28:56 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? on 8/19/02 10:41 AM, "Wesley A Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> wrote: > Hey all - > Just took my car (1995 M3) in for a 4-wheel alignment and it > cost me $141. I thought it was a bit expensive and wanted > to know what people are paying these days. The shop > (Curry's Auto Service - Chantilly, VA) says the M3 is > "special" and costs more to align. > > Comments? Mechanically the M3 alignment is the same as the other E36 variants. There is a slight procedural difference however. Instructions for the M3 call for measuring the ride height and establishing it to spec before alignment. On the regular E36 they specify certain weights on the seats instead. Of course if you have stiffer/lower springs that step isn't applicable anyway. I wonder whether dealers really go to the trouble of doing all this? I'm sure that independent shops don't. I'm in Fort Wayne, Indiana, which is definitely a low cost area. For a simple front end alignment performed very nicely at an independent shop by an experienced guy using degree plates and a scrub gauge - no lasers here! - I pay $29.50. It takes just over 30 min. For a 4 wheel job using the absolute latest in computerized gear (4 special TV cameras trained on clamped wheel targets, all hooked up to a PC) I go to a shop that simply charges by the hour, at $60 per. How much it costs therefore depends on how picky you want to be! A buddy's Z06 Corvette, where the suspension is fully adjustable at both ends, took 2 hours to set camber, caster and toe, so $120. My M3 took 90 min for front and rear toe plus rear camber, $90. For this you also get to participate in the process, and they give you a nice before/after computer printout. (This is the alignment shop where John Lingenfelter sends his 'Vettes.) I imagine that you guys on either coast or in major metro areas are going to pay a bunch more than this. Neil 96 M3