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#1. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Inspection II - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:35:46 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Inspection II matthew mead writes: > I'm about to do an Inspection II myself. > Where can I get the 3 (I think?) filters that are supposed to be > changed in the environmental system? There's only 1 filter, though when putting it in (according to Brett Anderson's instructions I followed) you break the plastic housing of the filter into 3 pieces so you can slide it in. I bought the filter at a local dealer, the parts guy knew what I was talking about when I said I needed a microfilter for an E36 M3. Brett's instructions: http://www.koalamotorsport.com/tech/e36/e36.microfilter.htm Hope that helps, Andrej '97 M3
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#2. Re[2]: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:38:36 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? In addition to the BFH, we required several applications of PB Blaster, a penetrating spray to get the rotors off (~75k miles, 5 year old car, original rotors) my car. Andrej '97 M3 Robert Chay writes: > 7mm hex (stubby) for caliper guide bolts (40ft/lbs? med tightness) > 6mm hex for rotor set screw (15-20ft/lbs? not too tight) > 17mm socket (or 18mm) for caliper bracket (70-80ft/lbs range) > BFH incase the rotor is frozen on the hub > 4 beers (for the first time, 1 or 2 if you have experience) > Of course there's torque specs for the bolts but I don't know them off hand. > Careful with the 6mm bolt. You really don't want to strip this. Make sure > the allen wrench is in there snug. > There's a plastic plug over each (2) caliper guide bolt. > Oh... don't forget to take off the wheels (17mm bolts) :P > -Bobby > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >> >> I have a set of front rotors I'll be putting on this week with the aid of >> Ron's instructions that I printed out, but I have those at home and can't >> remember if these things were mentioned. I attempted to go to Barne's & >> Noble and buy a Bentlely, but all they had was the Haynes manual. That > just >> said "remove the rotor," with no details. Needless to say, I didn't > bother >> buying it. >> >> What tools (incl. sizes) will I need in addition to what I'd use for >> swapping out brake pads? >> >> Are there torque specs to retightening anything there, or is it just "as >> tight as you can get it?" >> >> I think that's it. >> >> Thanks, >> Jonathan L.
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#3. Re[2]: FS: E36 M3 stuff - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:40:03 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: FS: E36 M3 stuff Whoops, sorry gruppe, that message was not meant to be CC'ed to the list. Blame it on monday... Andrej
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#4. [E36M3] installed uuc clutch arm bushings - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:50:38 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] installed uuc clutch arm bushings Zack says > > a few minutes after sending this, i got a message from > Matt at UUC telling me that they had already updated > their instructions! i must have gotten one of the > last kits with the old ones... .....yeah, they updated them using your detailed instructions right after you sent them :-) Later, Rich - Just kidding UUC, I wanted to yank Matt and Rob's chains.
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#5. Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Patrick
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:51:52 -0400 From: Patrick <zez413@comcast.net> Subject: Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? Speaking of alignments, how can I find out who has the latest and greatest Alignment, mounting, balancing equip in my area? I am located about 25 miles north of Philly. I have some new shoes on the way and I know the car needs an alignment. recommendations welcome! Pat 98 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:56:04 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? At 10:31 AM 8/19/02, Neil Maller wrote: >For a 4 wheel job using the absolute latest in computerized gear (4 special >TV cameras trained on clamped wheel targets, all hooked up to a PC) I go to >a shop that simply charges by the hour, at $60 per. How much it costs >therefore depends on how picky you want to be! A buddy's Z06 Corvette, where >the suspension is fully adjustable at both ends, took 2 hours to set camber, >caster and toe, so $120. My M3 took 90 min for front and rear toe plus rear >camber, $90. I've got similar experiences. The shop I use has the latest laser Hunter machine, and they are very picky. Shop rate is $80, IIRC, and it's usually about 2 hours for a complete 4-wheel alignment on the M3. So $160 for an alignment, and the car drives STRAIGHT. With a 98% freeway commute, this is worth it to me. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett
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#7. Rear toe bushings - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:59:56 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Rear toe bushings OK, it's time for the rear toe bushings on the M3 to be replaced (that explains the "odd" handling, I think :-)). My untrained eye would describe them as "toast". Since the M3 is strictly a daily-driver now, I'm assuming using stock replacement bushings are the way to go? Only suspension mod is the sway bars, if that matters. Car will be going into the shop on Thursday; any help is appreciated. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - a bit "wobbly" 1993 325is #44 KP - down, but not out
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#8. Re: [E36M3] what kind of tape? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:05:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] what kind of tape? Paul, I've found that the liquid electric tape is very good for strange shapes, wraps, and places. My basic procedure is to solder the joint, seal with liquid tape, then cover with electrical tape if I can't use shrink. A little overkill, but I'm funny that way. Carey --- Paul Elliott <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:39:12 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: what kind of tape? > > Most of the black electical tape I see in the stores give both a > minimum and > maximum temperature at which its supposed to be effective..I guess > it means > that above or below, it doesnt stick so good and will tend to > unravel. The > max temps Ive seen are 176 degrees F. > > Now, I dont know how hot it gets under the hood, but I suspect it > can get > hotter than this, especially with a Turbo or Supercharger sitting > under > there. Shrink wrap is good, but its not applicable for all > situations. > Sometimes, when you need to tape up a series of joins, tape is the > only > answer, where you can stretch it and pull it into different shapes > and sizes > to cover. > > Anyway, does anybody know a type of tape we can use which has super > stick > ability at the hottest under hood temps we might encounter? > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank > pulley: > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni > Suspension; > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing > list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET > directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
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#9. Re: what kind of tape? - from Dan Bocek
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:08:36 -0700 From: Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> Subject: Re: what kind of tape? >Anyway, does anybody know a type of tape we can use which has super stick >ability at the hottest under hood temps we might encounter? In a word: Kapton. This is the best electrical tape around. It sticks to everything, can withstand temps up to 500 degrees, and has excellent resistance to acids, oils, and solvents. Try http://www.kaptontape.com/ -Dano-
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:12:42 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? At 09:31 AM 8/19/02, twisty M3 wrote: >Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:22:23 -0700 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Subject: Rotor Tools? > >I have a set of front rotors I'll be putting on this week with the aid of >Ron's instructions that I printed out, but I have those at home and can't >remember if these things were mentioned. I attempted to go to Barne's & >Noble and buy a Bentlely, but all they had was the Haynes manual. That >just said "remove the rotor," with no details. Needless to say, I didn't >bother buying it. > >What tools (incl. sizes) will I need in addition to what I'd use for >swapping out brake pads? 16mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts. 6mm hex for the rotor retaining screw. On the fronts, I found using a short 16mm impact socket on my Sanp-On cordless impact makes this job EASY. Also, get the whole front up on jackstands if you can, that way you can turn the wheels for greater access. >Are there torque specs to retightening anything there, or is it just "as >tight as you can get it?" Front caliper bracket bolts are 81 ft-lbs. Rotor retaining screw is somewhere around 16-22 ft-lbs, IIRC. Tight enough to hold the rotor in place. Also, I coat the hub & retaining screw in a small bit of anti-seize compound. Helps make future removals easier :-) Feel free to email me with any other questions. I've done this job a few times :-) Jim Bassett
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:04:43 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings go with the E46 bushings (let me know if you need the part #), harder compound, and the ground control shims. dramatic difference, especially once you're feeling the 'wiggle' under acceleration. rich beebe 95 LTW - no wobbly 95 M3 - no wobbly From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > OK, it's time for the rear toe bushings on the M3 to be replaced (that > explains the "odd" handling, I think :-)). My untrained eye would describe > them as "toast". > > Since the M3 is strictly a daily-driver now, I'm assuming using stock > replacement bushings are the way to go? Only suspension mod is the sway > bars, if that matters. > > Car will be going into the shop on Thursday; any help is appreciated. > > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 - a bit "wobbly" > 1993 325is #44 KP - down, but not out
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#12. RE: Rotor Tools? - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:19:39 -0400 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: Rotor Tools? > Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:25:30 -0400 > From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools? A few corrections: > 7mm hex (stubby) for caliper guide bolts (40ft/lbs? med tightness) The torque on this is actually 22 ft-lbs. > 6mm hex for rotor set screw (15-20ft/lbs? not too tight) This is actually 12 ft-lbs. > 17mm socket (or 18mm) for caliper bracket (70-80ft/lbs range) The torque is 81 ft-lbs, and I believe it's a 16mm socket. See http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html and http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/BrakeAndRotorSwapE36 ..html for supplemental info. - Bill ---------- > BFH incase the rotor is frozen on the hub > 4 beers (for the first time, 1 or 2 if you have experience) > > Of course there's torque specs for the bolts but I don't know > them off hand. > > Careful with the 6mm bolt. You really don't want to strip > this. Make sure > the allen wrench is in there snug. > There's a plastic plug over each (2) caliper guide bolt. > > Oh... don't forget to take off the wheels (17mm bolts) :P > > -Bobby > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > > > I have a set of front rotors I'll be putting on this week > with the aid of > > Ron's instructions that I printed out, but I have those at > home and can't > > remember if these things were mentioned. I attempted to go > to Barne's & > > Noble and buy a Bentlely, but all they had was the Haynes > manual. That > just > > said "remove the rotor," with no details. Needless to say, I didn't > bother > > buying it. > > > > What tools (incl. sizes) will I need in addition to what I'd use for > > swapping out brake pads? > > > > Are there torque specs to retightening anything there, or > is it just "as > > tight as you can get it?" > > > > I think that's it. > > > > Thanks, > > Jonathan L. > >