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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:26:49 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What are you guys paying for an alignment? Don't assume just because they have the latest and greatest tools, that the shop is good. You can go to Hunter's site for a list of shops near you that use their equipment. In the LA, CA area, Stokes Tire Pros in Santa Monica is great. CCA Supporters and they do great work. (And they have the latest Hunter alignment equipment). There's a place in Hackensack, NJ (Goodyear shop) that just got a Hunter alignment setup but I've never been there. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick" <zez413@comcast.net> > > Speaking of alignments, how can I find out who has the latest and greatest > Alignment, mounting, balancing equip in my area? I am located about 25 > miles north of Philly. I have some new shoes on the way and I know the car > needs an alignment. recommendations welcome! > > Pat > 98 M3 >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] what kind of tape? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:37:54 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] what kind of tape? HI Carey, >>> A little overkill, but I'm funny that way<< Yea, me too! You should see some of the electrical tape 'hardballs' I ve made just to cover sensitive connections! > I've found that the liquid electric tape is very good for strange > shapes, wraps, and places<< Thats a great idea...I just came across some from the Eastwood company..What a great outfit...theyve got all the oddball stuff you never necessarily knew existed! They carry the liquid tape in 4 colors for 6 bucks each. How thick does this stuff dry, and is one coating enough to really prevent a short, for instance, if two protected parts come in contact with one another, and is it enough to seal out the elements? I see you use both this, and the conventional kinds of tape...Not having ever worked with the stuff, give me an idea of what the the dried joint feels like...ie, does it feel like a shrink wrap had been done to the area? is it dry and smooth, or tacky and soft? etc... thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 2:05 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] what kind of tape? > Paul, > > I've found that the liquid electric tape is very good for strange > shapes, wraps, and places. > > My basic procedure is to solder the joint, seal with liquid tape, > then cover with electrical tape if I can't use shrink. > > A little overkill, but I'm funny that way. > > Carey > --- Paul Elliott <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > > Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:39:12 -0400 > > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > > Subject: what kind of tape? > > > > Most of the black electical tape I see in the stores give both a > > minimum and > > maximum temperature at which its supposed to be effective..I guess > > it means > > that above or below, it doesnt stick so good and will tend to > > unravel. The > > max temps Ive seen are 176 degrees F. > > > > Now, I dont know how hot it gets under the hood, but I suspect it > > can get > > hotter than this, especially with a Turbo or Supercharger sitting > > under > > there. Shrink wrap is good, but its not applicable for all > > situations. > > Sometimes, when you need to tape up a series of joins, tape is the > > only > > answer, where you can stretch it and pull it into different shapes > > and sizes > > to cover. > > > > Anyway, does anybody know a type of tape we can use which has super > > stick > > ability at the hottest under hood temps we might encounter? > > > > Paul Elliott > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank > > pulley: > > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni > > Suspension; > > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing > > list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET > > directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs > http://www.hotjobs.com >
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#3. Re: Rotor Tools? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:31:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rotor Tools? on 8/19/02 12:41 PM, "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> wrote: > 17mm socket (or 18mm) for caliper bracket (70-80ft/lbs range) They're 16mm heads. And if they haven't been taken off recently, getting them broken free will take major effort. Don't use a 12 point socket. You'll need a cheater bar (or of course an impact gun). Also useful is a 6" C-clamp to retract the caliper piston. The easiest way to get the rotor set screw undone is while the caliper is still in place. Shove a large screwdriver into a rotor cooling vane so that the screwdriver hits the caliper and stops the rotor from turning. Using a T-handle Allen wrench (preferable) or an Allen socket on a ratchet or a simple Allen key (least preferable), lean hard into the set screw and break it free. It's not really necessary to take the caliper off its bracket (by removing the guide pin bolts) to replace the rotors. Just push the piston back with the C-clamp to get some wiggle room, undo the two 16mm head caliper bracket bolts at the kingpin, and lift the entire caliper/bracket assembly clear. Support it on an upturned bucket while the rotor is changed out. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:36:28 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? >From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> > > > 7mm hex (stubby) for caliper guide bolts (40ft/lbs? med tightness) > >The torque on this is actually 22 ft-lbs. > So, hypothetically speaking, if I guy... let's just call him Jonathan for this example, wasn't able to get a torque wrench back there on the rears and as just tightening the bejeezus out of the guide bolts for fear of them coming lose otherwise, how bad would this be? The pads have been changed countless times this year and "Jonathan" (hehe!) has tightened these about as tight as he could (I'd guess well over 100 ft-lbs), what sort of problems might he be causing. Jonathan L. Not the same one in the above example, of course. ;) _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#5. Clear Shrink Tubing (was what kind of tape?) - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:40:05 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Clear Shrink Tubing (was what kind of tape?) Speaking of electrical tape, has anyone here used clear shrink tubing to protect (appearance and abrasion) there stainless steel lines? I have heard of this and was wondering if anyone has done it, how it stood up to time and use and where did you source the appropriate length tubing. Thanks, Rich 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is (for sale)
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#6. Chip for Cam E36M3 - from Perry Shang
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 15:00:56 -0400 From: "Perry Shang" <scsi_one@hotmail.com> Subject: Chip for Cam E36M3 Hi, all - I have a 97 E36M3 that I just installed Shrick cam. I have to say, the car is pretty powerful now. But, I also notice I am not putting the max out of my cams yet. Thanks for OBD-II system that I don't have to change anything else in order for the cam to work. I have talked to Turner motorsport, they don't recommend me to get Shark Injector, as it is not optimized for camed cars. Rick Vaughn (the guy who installed my cam) says Dinan have a chip for it. In my opinion, Dinan's chip does not increase that much difference in high RPM range (this may not be true anymore, since the info I got is from my 95 325is couple of years ago). Now, I know Josh from Euro Sport is coming out with a cam system for OBD-II cars. Frankly, I don't need their kit anymore, cause I already have the cam in my car. But, Josh will not sell the chip for that particular setup stand alone. So, now I am sort of stuck. What should I do? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Perry.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 15:00:39 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings you're right chester, i meant to say 96+ RTBs. jim, part # is 33.32.2.228.153. rich > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:29:07 -0700 (PDT) > To: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings > > The rear toe bushings = trailing arm bushings, right? The '96+ uses the same > bushing as the E46M3... > > Chester > > --- Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: >> Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:04:43 -0400 >> From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear toe bushings >> >> go with the E46 bushings (let me know if you need the part #), >> harder compound, and the ground control shims. dramatic difference, >> especially once you're feeling the 'wiggle' under acceleration.
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#8. Rear toe bushings - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 12:43:49 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Rear toe bushings Rich Beebe wrote: "go with the E46 bushings (let me know if you need the part #)" <snip > I'd like to get those numbers! Kim L Burgess
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:12:59 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? Bill, Thanks for correcting me <mumble> ;) I haven't done this in a while since the Big Baby Blues. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> > <snip a bunch of corrections> > > See http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html and > http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/BrakeAndRotorSwapE36 > .html for supplemental info. > > - Bill > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:16:42 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? Jonathan, The caliper bracket bolts should be ok with 100ft/lbs but the guide bolts really don't need to be on all that tight. And I know you'd strip the rotor set screw before you got to over 50 ft/lbs. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > > >From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> > > > > > 7mm hex (stubby) for caliper guide bolts (40ft/lbs? med tightness) > > > >The torque on this is actually 22 ft-lbs. > > > > So, hypothetically speaking, if I guy... let's just call him Jonathan for > this example, wasn't able to get a torque wrench back there on the rears and > as just tightening the bejeezus out of the guide bolts for fear of them > coming lose otherwise, how bad would this be? The pads have been changed > countless times this year and "Jonathan" (hehe!) has tightened these about > as tight as he could (I'd guess well over 100 ft-lbs), what sort of problems > might he be causing. > > Jonathan L. > Not the same one in the above example, of course. ;) >