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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? - from Jonathan Van Houtte
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:44:22 -0400 From: "Jonathan Van Houtte" <Jonathan@abacusinfo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? > So, hypothetically speaking, if I guy... let's just call him > Jonathan for > this example, wasn't able to get a torque wrench back there > on the rears and > as just tightening the bejeezus out of the guide bolts for > fear of them > coming lose otherwise, how bad would this be? The pads have > been changed > countless times this year and "Jonathan" (hehe!) has > tightened these about > as tight as he could (I'd guess well over 100 ft-lbs), what > sort of problems > might he be causing. What kind of tool are you using that can crank that kind of torque and still fit under the shock? About the only thing I've got that fits is an L-shaped allen wrench and a 1/4" drive hex key socket. And I don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench... --another Jonathan (who rebuilt the rear brakes yesterday)
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#2. Re: Rotor Tools - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:43:48 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Rotor Tools Of course you realize you don't even need the set screw as your lug nuts do an ample job of keeping the rotor on the car... >>And I know you'd strip the rotor set screw before you got to over 50 ft/lbs. -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#3. replacing rear shocks - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 17:05:07 -0400 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: replacing rear shocks Group, Well my Koni DA's arrived, and I'm going to replace my OEM shocks. I have the JTD RSM's, so can anyone tell me if I can just remove the shuttle and top nut, instead of removing the whole RSM assembly? This would make the job easier. Also, I seem to recall the list saying that jacking up the car in order to replace the rear shocks is not necessary, is this right? TIA, Bob Gill 97 M3 Coupe
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:07:54 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rotor Tools? At 01:51 PM 8/19/02, Jonathan Van Houtte wrote: >What kind of tool are you using that can crank that kind of torque and >still fit under the shock? About the only thing I've got that fits is >an L-shaped allen wrench and a 1/4" drive hex key socket. And I don't >have a 1/4" drive torque wrench... Just an FYI, Snap-On has a stubby 7mm hex socket, 3/8" drive that works like a charm. Jim Bassett
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rotor Tools - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:09:34 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rotor Tools At 01:51 PM 8/19/02, JUSTIN GERRY wrote: >Of course you realize you don't even need the set screw as your lug nuts >do an ample job of keeping the rotor on the car... True, although it does help to keep the rotor in place during frequent wheel changes. Jim Bassett
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#6. : Rotor Tools? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 17:45:34 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: : Rotor Tools? >>So, hypothetically speaking, if I guy... let's just call him Jonathan for this example, wasn't able to get a torque wrench back there on the rears and as just tightening the bejeezus out of the guide bolts for fear of them coming lose otherwise, how bad would this be? The pads have been changed countless times this year and "Jonathan" (hehe!) has tightened these about as tight as he could (I'd guess well over 100 ft-lbs), what sort of problems might he be causing.<< Using a torque wrench isnt necessary on the guide bolts. But youre telling us that 100 ft lbs have been used on those little guide bolts meant to take just 22 ft lbs? You realize dont you that the Wheel lug bolts only take about 85 ft lbs max to tighten the wheels...those are relatively large 17mm bolts, and youre applying even more torque to those little guide bolts? I doubt it...I would think theyd snap or strip. With a quarter inch wrench and the 7mm socket hex socket, I just tighten them snugly, so that they feel good and tight, but in no danger of stripping...experience tells me thats near 20-25 ft lbs . With the 1/4" socket wrench I use, there's no way I could get even half the pressure on these bolts that you say you did...I just dont see how you could fit a large enough socket wrench in there to even put this much torque on them. And if you did, then you have enough room to fit a torque wrench in there to begin with! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. Stiff clutch pedal - from K Quistorff
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 18:13:07 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Stiff clutch pedal Hi, I bought a '96 M3 eight months ago with 60 kmi, and the clutch pedal is squeaky and much stiffer than any other car (including M3s) I've driven. Also, the clutch releases/engages very close to the floor. I tried replacing the slave cylinder, including proper bleeding - there was zero improvement - and I also installed Delrin UUC clutch pedal bushings. The bushings got rid of the squeak for awhile, but nothing for the stiffness, and the squeaking came back a few months later. Any ideas what might be causing these problems? Any way to test/confirm for sure? I really would like to avoid paying a shop to start pulling the clutch apart unless absolutely necessary. Another possible symptom is occasional slow/delayed clutch engagement when revving in 2nd gear for rolling starts. This symptom doesn't happen every time, but only about 2-3 times since buying the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Keith Quistorff Cary, NC
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#8. How much rotor warp? - from McCarthy, Brian
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 15:06:27 -0700 From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Subject: How much rotor warp? Guys, How much runout is acceptable on the rotors? My rotors vary from 1.5 to 3 thousandths of total travel. (runout?) ie: + - .75 to + - 1.5 thousandths. The fronts are worst. After a recent track event, the brakes were "rumbly" when applied, and I attributed it to toasted pads. I swapped the Jurid pads for PF97 pads this weekend. The rumbling sound is still there. And now, I can feel some steering wheel vibration under mild to aggressive braking. The pedal feels slightly rough as well.. Q: Is 0.0015" to 0.003" runout a problem? Q: Am I experiencing the traditional "warped rotor" phenomenon? Thanks! Brian '95 M3 w/ new PF97 and Kuhmos, getting ready for Portland this weekend.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 15:23:59 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI Looking at this as a hypothetical engineering problem, how about this for a fix. A fuel injection rail mounted under the rear bumper with nozzles pointing downward, connected to an accusump, and a reservoir filled with coolant? -----Original Message----- From: Bob Lenarcik [mailto:lenarcik@pacbell.net] Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 10:52 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 10:49:43 -0700 From: Bob Lenarcik <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI Ouch! I had a similar experience with a CHP on 17 recently. I had my wife and kids in the M3 and we were heading home around 10:30 PM on Friday night and I was keeping up with the flow of traffic - around 57 or so. There were cars passing me at 70+ and one decided to slow as he caught up to me and sit in my blind spot in the left lane. I tried to put some distance between us so I sped up a bit and then slowed back down once there was no one in the next lane. Next thing I know someone's tailgating me 3ft off my bumper at 55! I accelerated again, signaled a lane change to pass the car ahead of me and just as I started the change, the lights went on. The jerk tried to nail me for 65 in a 50 as he was "trying to keep up" but he just told me to slow down. I normally pay the fine if stopped (5 times in 20+ yrs), but this one I would have gone to court for. That idiot was putting my whole family in danger! I think he just picked me out because it was an M3. BTW, the Santa Clara county Sheriff has an older white Camaro that's been nailing speeders on Quito Road near the Campbell/Saratoga border. It's marked a lot clearer and uses the older K-band radar, but he seems to be real effective at revenue generation. Be careful out there! - Bob -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 7:52 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 21:43:45 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SF/Monterey Bay Area FYI I think that the CHP got the idea from the city of Campbell (Same general vicinity for those that don't know, near the intersection of I880 and 280, in CA). Anyway, back in the Mustang days I had one of these "white camaros" come up on me real fast while I was sitting at a stoplight. Then he proceeded to rev the engine while behind me inching up on the whole time. I bit, I didn't get half a block before the hidden strobes started flashing red and blue. Do'h!. Mel ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Harbor Freight lightweight jack - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:29:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Harbor Freight lightweight jack This was posted to a list that the missus is on. It may be a fluke, but.... --------------------------------------------------- Subject: [american-iron-west] 1st Harbor Freight jack failure I wondered how long these things would last. Ours is less than 2 weeks old. Part of the weight of the car was resting on one of the four vertical "fingers" surrounding the rubber pad. The finger broke clear off taking about 20% of the circular aluminum pad with it.. Be careful everyone, and check the jacks frequently. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com