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#1. Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:13:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in the back. Well, I've seen it first hand :) Just wondering if that's an anamoly or if it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my car. This car also had this fenders slightly rolled. The only other person I know with the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his fenders.... =) Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back? Thanks, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:44:47 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? Not sure why you think there would be a problem. 245/40/17's is the stock size rear tire on the E36 M3! Now if you are talking about putting them on the front with 8.5" ET41 wheels, then it is pretty close. Whether they rub the front struts depends on a number of factors including your camber and the width of the particular tire. On my car with stock strut housings and stock camber, 245/40 MXX3's rub on the front so I use a 5mm spacer. Dave > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:13:54 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? > > So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in the back. > Well, I've seen it first hand :) Just wondering if that's an anamoly or if > it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my car. This > car also had this fenders slightly rolled. The only other person I know with > the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his > fenders.... =) > > Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock > wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back? > > Thanks, > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs > http://www.hotjobs.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > >
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#3. Sanding brake rotors - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:56:07 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Sanding brake rotors Its getting to the point where I want to chuck my Rotex pads for aggressive street use, and try something else...I happen to have a front set of Hawk HPS, so those will be the first replacement I try...down the road, depending on how I find the Hawks, I also want to try the Axxis Ultimate pad. But I dont want this to get into a pad vs pad shootout...Instead, I want to ask about sanding the rotors...The reason I want to change my pads, is that I find at high speeds, the Rotex pads have a bad tendency to transfer the pad material to the rotors in an uneven fashion which inevitably creates steering wheel vibration, called 'judder'. This only happens at high speeds....For instance, doing a lot of braking at 70 mph or above will invariably lead to the vibration...I can get rid of it by performing an abbreviated bed-in procedure with several stops from 40 mph with increasing pressure. But, it will come back. So, before I put on the Hawks, Id like to sand the rotors, to remove any deposits I can, to assist in the new pad break in process. On the Stoptech site, theres a good article about just this topic, and they say that Aluminum Oxide sanding disks should be avoided. http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm . It says: "When these pads reach their effective temperature limit, they will transfer pad material onto the disc face in a random and uneven pattern. It is this "pick up" on the disc face that both causes the thickness variation measured by the technicians and the roughness or vibration under the brakes reported by the drivers....." And if you read, it gets worse, talking about how these deposits will transform into a hard sustance called 'cementite' which is very difficult, if not impossible, to remove! The white paper also brings up another fallacy Ive always heard...Ive heard that its good to install new pads and new rotors together...they say NOPE. They say new disks should be bedded with used pads, and new pads should be bedded with used disks! Ok, on to the question...They say that you should NOT use regular aluminum ozide paper or sanding disks: "the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse...". They instead say you should use Garnet paper or disks...Ive been unable to find Garnet paper sanding disks....Moreover, I did a search on rotor sanding techniques, and nowhere but here to they make this distinction. All the other articles may allude to a paper's grit level, and so on, but never to the composition, implying that for this purpose, sandpaper is sandpaper. 3M makes a disk resurfacing pad made of a substance called Roloc, but I havent seen this in any of the stores...Nor Garnet disks. So, the question is, how crucial is this mandate not to use regular sandpaper of the correct grit (approx 150) to finish disk surfaces? There are plenty of accounts on line of people using the regular stuff to good effect.... Any personal experiences or knowledge out there on the subject? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:58:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? The S03s are a very wide and square shouldered tire for a 245/40 application. I've seen these tires rub the rear fender lips. But I also heard from someone who has these tires and they don't rub. The only way I'll know is to mount Wayne's wheels with the 245/40 tires on the back to see. Chester --- Dave Kelley <d.kelley@usa.net> wrote: > Not sure why you think there would be a problem. 245/40/17's is the > stock size rear tire on the E36 M3! Now if you are talking about putting > them on the front with 8.5" ET41 wheels, then it is pretty close. > Whether they rub the front struts depends on a number of factors > including your camber and the width of the particular tire. On my car > with stock strut housings and stock camber, 245/40 MXX3's rub on the > front so I use a 5mm spacer. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Steven Tom
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:44:55 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? I use KD's which is another wide tire and my fronts rubbed the inner linings. I didn't have problems with the back. steve At 10:51 AM 8/21/2002 -0500, Dave Kelley wrote: >Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:44:47 -0400 >From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? > >Not sure why you think there would be a problem. 245/40/17's is the >stock size rear tire on the E36 M3! Now if you are talking about putting >them on the front with 8.5" ET41 wheels, then it is pretty close. >Whether they rub the front struts depends on a number of factors >including your camber and the width of the particular tire. On my car >with stock strut housings and stock camber, 245/40 MXX3's rub on the >front so I use a 5mm spacer. > >Dave > > > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:13:54 -0700 (PDT) > > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? > > > > So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in > the back. > > Well, I've seen it first hand :) Just wondering if that's an anamoly > or if > > it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my > car. This > > car also had this fenders slightly rolled. The only other person I > know with > > the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his > > fenders.... =) > > > > Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock > > wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back? > > > > Thanks, > > Chester > > > > ===== > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs > > http://www.hotjobs.com > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >*************************************************************
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#6. Re: Harbor Freight lightweight jack failure - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:21:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Harbor Freight lightweight jack failure on 8/21/02 9:51 AM, Steve Lilley <m3steve@earthlink.net> wrote: > I just received my $189 jack yesterday. I'm pretty sure problems > like the one described below can be avoided with only a couple > dollars worth of material... > > Since the vertical fingers are slightly higher than the rubber pad, > they carry all the weight when jacking a flat area of the car. In > order to avoid this, I remove the rubber pad entirely and replace > it with a 3/8" or 1/2" thick piece of wood cut into a circle. (I'm > not sure what kind of wood it is, but it's really hard. Maybe oak > or cherry?) Now the lifting load is always carried by the center > of the jack pad, not the fingers on the edge. All the fingers do > now is keep the wood circle in place. > >> I wondered how long these things would last. Ours is less than >> 2 weeks old. Part of the weight of the car was resting on one of >> the four vertical "fingers" surrounding the rubber pad. The >> finger broke clear off taking about 20% of the circular aluminum >> pad with it.. Most steel jacks have these fingers, presumably as a safety feature to prevent a car's underside from sliding off the jack saddle. However I think that's a design flaw for any aluminum jack. It's easy to see how the jack could be positioned such that much of the car's weight was being carried on one finger. Not only would this put a lot of force on the finger, but it would also apply a large bending moment to the central mount. Aluminum isn't that strong a material, and unless the saddle were made very massive it would be at risk of breakage. The other racing jacks I've seen either have a heavy continuous rim around the saddle, or just have a couple of small notches. Both approaches strike me as stronger then the HF jack design. However if the HF saddle is positioned squarely on the E36 lifting puck, or otherwise on a flat surface, then I think risk of breakage would probably be eliminated. BTW my HF jack shipped on 8/8 and still hasn't arrived. In order to get the free shipment deal it has to be sent USPS parcel post. UPS would have cost $20 extra, so I passed. Can anyone say "false economy?" Sure shows why UPS has grown to be the huge and successful business that it is though... Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:58:18 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? At 08:21 AM 8/21/02, Chester Wong wrote: >So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in the >back. > Well, I've seen it first hand :) Just wondering if that's an anamoly or if >it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my car. This >car also had this fenders slightly rolled. The only other person I know with >the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his >fenders.... =) > >Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock >wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back? Umm, Chester, 245/40/17 is the *stock* rear tire size on 96+ M3s. So yeah, there's probably one or two running that size. <bg> Seriously, I can't see how that would be a problem. I currently am running SO-3s, 245/40/17 on M Contour wheels (ET41), on all 4 corners, with no clearance/rubbing issues whatsoever. Car is stock suspended, except for sway bars. Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#8. WTB: one Rial or IFG wheel - from dlseeley
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:00:57 -0700 From: dlseeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: WTB: one Rial or IFG wheel Hi, all - A pretty-serious potential buyer for my car has a real issue with the spare wheel not matching the other four. So has anyone got one Rial 17x8 with center cap like this one: http://home.earthlink.net/~dlseeley/95M3/RialSO2.JPG or one IFG 17x8 (but with center cap) like this one: http://home.earthlink.net/~dlseeley/95M3/IFG%20RR.jpg Note: This is a real object lesson that not keeping stock parts can bite you at resale. :) Thx! Donna
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#9. Re: E46 brake bleeding - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:31:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: E46 brake bleeding on 8/21/02 9:51 AM, "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> wrote: > I was just informed that E46's can't be bled with just a standard pressure > bleeder, that the car has to be hooked up to a bleeder computer that opens > certain valves during the bleeding process. Any truth to this wives tale???? > Mark. This is theoretically the case with all cars with ABS or ASC+T/DSC. Some of the brake fluid is captured in the various valves and passages of the ABS/ASC+T/DSC control unit and doesn't get bled using standard methods. your dealer uses his factory electronic tools to cycle these. In practice it doesn't seem to matter much. It's also possible to bleed the brakes, go out and drive in such a way make sure these various systems get activated, then bleed again. Neil 96 M3
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#10. Feeler: FS two 7.5" forged M3 wheels - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:57:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Feeler: FS two 7.5" forged M3 wheels So with the season almost over, my Michelin Pilot Sports need a good retiring :) I managed to pick up a brand new 8.5" forged wheel so I was thinking of going 8.5 all around. So...I would have two 7.5" wheels for sale. One is in pristine condition and one has a very minor rash on it. Just trying to judge interest to see if anyone would buy them. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Boiling Diff Fluid? - from Andrew-Taylor Autosport
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:43:52 -0400 From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Boiling Diff Fluid? > Does anyone know what PTG did for its diff covers? Same thing most pro's do: Use a standard cover, add some metric to AN adapters for the drain and fill plugs, some AN line, an oil cooler and an electric pump (usually Tilton). Same usually goes for the trans. Andrew http://www.taylorautosport.com/ Goodridge plumbing Wholesale Distributor.