-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] E46 brake bleeding - from Steve Lilley
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:05:19 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <m3steve@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E46 brake bleeding Mark wrote: > I was just informed that E46's can't be bled with just a standard pressure > bleeder, that the car has to be hooked up to a bleeder computer that opens > certain valves during the bleeding process. Any truth to this wives tale???? I've used the pressure bleeder at least a half a dozen times on my E46 (a Y2K 323i). Never had any problems doing it myself... Regards, Steve
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:39:31 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? >From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > >Feel free to email me with any other questions. I've done this job a few >times :-) > I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the front rotors. Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set of bolts that require turning in the opposite direction of normal? Do I just need to be sure the car is ridiculously well-supported so I can throw ALL of my bodyweight into it? Btw, the rotors that are still on the car are ugly! Many different colors and some seriously hideous black streaks from pad material. Thanks for any help, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: 95 M3 Bearing Hats - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:42:58 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 95 M3 Bearing Hats A friend is looking for some used 95 M3 bearing hats for transplant into a 325. Anyone of you camber plate guys got some take-offs? If so reply to me. Thx. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:46:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up > with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get > those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all > the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the > front rotors. > > Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set Ooooh....someone needs to eat his Wheaties :) Nope...standard thread. You might want to use some penetrating oil or something. Have you ever taken them off? Air tools certainly help...unless they were reinstalled with them ...doh! Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Sanding brake rotors - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:49:04 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Sanding brake rotors Paul says > > The white paper also brings up another fallacy Ive always heard...Ive heard > that its good to install new pads and new rotors together...they say NOPE. > They say new disks should be bedded with used pads, and new pads should be > bedded with used disks! I have said this for a while now after talking to various other people about it, specifically TC Kline. Most people just don't agree but can't say why. > 3M makes a disk resurfacing pad made of a substance called Roloc, but I havent > seen this in any of the stores...Nor Garnet disks. So, the question is, how > crucial is this mandate not to use regular sandpaper of the correct grit > (approx 150) to finish disk surfaces? There are plenty of accounts on line > of people using the regular stuff to good effect.... Roloc is just the method of attachment (1/2 turn quick connector). I have some 3M and Wurth 2" surface conditioning discs and 3" brake disk resurfacing discs. They work great. 3M claims that the abrasive is 3M(tm) Cubitron(tm) Abrasive Grain which is "3M-patented sol gel mineral is manufactured to enhance fracture toughness and hardness of the grain. Cubitron grain adds exceptional durability and improved cutting efficiencies in both bonded and coated abrasive product applications." Based on the MSDS sheets, it appears that the material is primarily aluminum oxide along with zirconium acetate and iron oxide. Aluminum oxide was always the primary component. I have used these discs on my rotors and they work fine. I have never noted a problem like Stoptech implies. You can get these discs many places, particularly on-line. WARNING - 3M stuff, much like Snap-On and Wurth, is expensive and addictive. I particularly like some of the new Roloc bristle brushes I got recently :-) You have been warned. Later, Rich
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:59:39 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? > >Ooooh....someone needs to eat his Wheaties :) > Nah... I ate a good breakfast this morning. ;) >might want to use some penetrating oil or something. Have you ever taken >them >off? Air tools certainly help...unless they were reinstalled with them >...doh! > I did try the penetrating oil, and all that did was get me high from the fumes. They were changed last November, but have never been done by hand... they were tightened with an air tool last time. I think I may have to have it done by my mechanic this time, and just ask him to hand tighten them so I can get them off again in a few weeks for the next track weekend. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:04:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? Remember, the torque spec is 110Nm... Chester > I did try the penetrating oil, and all that did was get me high from the > fumes. They were changed last November, but have never been done by hand... > they were tightened with an air tool last time. I think I may have to have > it done by my mechanic this time, and just ask him to hand tighten them so I > can get them off again in a few weeks for the next track weekend. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Robert Chay
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:08:21 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? Wheaties helps :P When I took my caliper bracket off for the first time, I had the same problem. I used a box end wrench and a BFH to get it off. Poorman's impact wrench :) Just watch your fingers. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > >From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > > > >Feel free to email me with any other questions. I've done this job a few > >times :-) > > > > I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up > with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get > those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all > the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the > front rotors. > > Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set > of bolts that require turning in the opposite direction of normal? Do I > just need to be sure the car is ridiculously well-supported so I can throw > ALL of my bodyweight into it? > > Btw, the rotors that are still on the car are ugly! Many different colors > and some seriously hideous black streaks from pad material. > > Thanks for any help, > Jonathan L. > > >
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Reid Conti
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:19:33 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? I don't mean to discourage you.. but myself and an E30 M3 guy did the brakes on my E36 for the first time a few months back. I did the rears, bolts came off fine. He had a hell of a time with the fronts. On the left side, the bolt barely came off. On the right side, it was worse. The bolt was STUCK. We tried a breaker bar. Hell, we even ended up using his TORQUE wrench as a breaker bar. Hammer the torque wrench onto the bolt, stand on the wrench, no luck. Kicking the wrench from under the car. Heating the bolt. More penetrating oil. NOTHING. The head of the bolt eventually stripped. The socket tore thru the metal on the head rather than turning the bolt. Ended up leaving the car at his house that night. He spent hours upon hours with a dremel cutting the head off of the (heat-treated) bolt. Not fun. hope you have better luck :) - reid On 8/21/02 12:41, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:39:31 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? > > > >> From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> >> >> Feel free to email me with any other questions. I've done this job a few >> times :-) >> > > I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up > with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get > those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all > the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the > front rotors. > > Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set > of bolts that require turning in the opposite direction of normal? Do I > just need to be sure the car is ridiculously well-supported so I can throw > ALL of my bodyweight into it? > > Btw, the rotors that are still on the car are ugly! Many different colors > and some seriously hideous black streaks from pad material. > > Thanks for any help, > Jonathan L. > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:27:30 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? Chester, >>Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back?<< This isnt exactly the setup youre asking about, but it might give you an indication...I have 245x40-17 Pilot Sports on Fikse 8.5x17 all around...As you may know, the 37.7mm offset moves the wheels Outboard by 3.3mm, which isnt much. Yet, with the slightly lowered Dinan springs and Koni shocks, and the Pilot Sports, which are purported to have a somewhat smaller treadwidth pattern than the SO3s, I still have enough room without real rolling...The fender sits down nearly on top of the tire, but its tucked inside just enough....You can just get your first finger flatwise between the rubber and the fender lip up to the first knuckle. I guess I have between 1/4 and 1/2 an inch..Its not much, but its enough... I did flatten the lip a little with the claw of a claw hammer, inserted between the lip and the tire, leveraging downward. This definitely helped...Now, I can go over even a large smooth rolling type bump, and I wont hear any rubbing! Now if I had the same tires, but on the stock rims, Id be about 3mm more inside, and have even more room...So, in order for the SO3s to rub, theyd need a treadwidth differential over the Pilot Sports of the 3.3mm, plus, the finger flat thickness together before theyd start to rub. Tirerack says the Section width of the Pilot Sports is 9.6" vs 10" for the SO3s. Thats almost a half inch wider at the tread, which is going to cut it real close. On my lowered car, with a stock rim, it might just fit. The finger thickness size would equal approximately the section width difference, meaning on mine, it would definitely be touching the fender lip...But with the stock rim, Id be 3.3mm more inside, just allowing clearance...ON a nonlowered car, though I would think it would have not much trouble fitting...For what its worth... Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio