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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Tom Byrum
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:32:12 -0400 From: Tom Byrum <mycroft@academus.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? >We tried a breaker bar. Hell, we even ended up using his TORQUE wrench as a >breaker bar. Hammer the torque wrench onto the bolt, stand on the wrench, Hammer? Torque wrench? I hope you guys didn't expect it to ever measure accurately again without being recalibrated. Why? Was it just longer than anything else you had around? I've always thought that non-beam type wrenches were precision calibrated, and that even being dropped can upset this. I even take my wrench inside in the winter to avoid heat cycling. Am I over cautious? I also never use the wrench to loosen bolts (that's what my . 5in sockets are for). Tom Byrum
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#2. Re: Sanding brake rotors - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:40:24 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Sanding brake rotors Hi Rich, I found a source for this 3M disk resurfacing product.....Funny...I thought ROLOC was an alternative to Garnet or Aluminum Oxide abrasive! LOL....Well, whatever its made of, I trust 3M, and have heard from guys like you who love the product...It lists for believe or not like 50 bucks..I found it online for 28 bucks plus shpg, so I ordered it...While I was searching for it, I managed to accumulate several packs of aluminum oxide 5" sanding disks, which I wont have to use now. Although from what you say, its not going to be much different than sticking the disk to the 5" rubber backing plate that came with the drill....Maybe, the zirconium and iron helps the AO not cause the problems Stoptech is talking about...Then again I might have made out just as well using up all those 5" red sanding disks I acquired! But, if it doesnt help solve the 'judder' problem, had I been using the AO disks, you know Id just be blaming them...If it doesnt solve the judder issue with the 3m resurfacing disks for 30 bucks, then I'll have to blame either the rotors as unfixable, or the new pads, or something else...But not the surface treatment! Ha! That's logic for ya! More like rationalization. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Cc: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 3:49 PM Subject: Sanding brake rotors Paul says > > The white paper also brings up another fallacy Ive always heard...Ive heard > that its good to install new pads and new rotors together...they say NOPE. > They say new disks should be bedded with used pads, and new pads should be > bedded with used disks! I have said this for a while now after talking to various other people about it, specifically TC Kline. Most people just don't agree but can't say why. > 3M makes a disk resurfacing pad made of a substance called Roloc, but I havent > seen this in any of the stores...Nor Garnet disks. So, the question is, how > crucial is this mandate not to use regular sandpaper of the correct grit > (approx 150) to finish disk surfaces? There are plenty of accounts on line > of people using the regular stuff to good effect.... Roloc is just the method of attachment (1/2 turn quick connector). I have some 3M and Wurth 2" surface conditioning discs and 3" brake disk resurfacing discs. They work great. 3M claims that the abrasive is 3M(tm) Cubitron(tm) Abrasive Grain which is "3M-patented sol gel mineral is manufactured to enhance fracture toughness and hardness of the grain. Cubitron grain adds exceptional durability and improved cutting efficiencies in both bonded and coated abrasive product applications." Based on the MSDS sheets, it appears that the material is primarily aluminum oxide along with zirconium acetate and iron oxide. Aluminum oxide was always the primary component. I have used these discs on my rotors and they work fine. I have never noted a problem like Stoptech implies. You can get these discs many places, particularly on-line. WARNING - 3M stuff, much like Snap-On and Wurth, is expensive and addictive. I particularly like some of the new Roloc bristle brushes I got recently :-) You have been warned. Later, Rich
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#3. Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:05:42 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Rotor Tools. WTF? Jonathon, Since you are such a slight person (ha ha) you should try adding about two feet of pipe to your breaker bar to increase leverage. The bolts are standard thread and will come loose if you apply enough force. Try to make sure you are using a six point socket if at all possible and really lay into them. Maybe you should consider hitting the gym once in a while (BFG) jeff > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:39:31 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? > I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up > with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get > those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all > the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the > front rotors. > > Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set > of bolts that require turning in the opposite direction of normal? Do I > just need to be sure the car is ridiculously well-supported so I can throw > ALL of my bodyweight into it? > > Btw, the rotors that are still on the car are ugly! Many different colors > and some seriously hideous black streaks from pad material. > > Thanks for any help, > Jonathan L.
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#4. 95 M3 Bearing Hats - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:56:20 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: 95 M3 Bearing Hats Neil says > > A friend is looking for some used 95 M3 bearing hats for transplant into a > 325. Anyone of you camber plate guys got some take-offs? A friend huh? I wouldn't cross the street to help this 'friend'. Besides, he may get all 'red misty' on me and try to whoop my butt at Mid-Ohio later this year. You Neil of all people should not be encouraging this type of activity. I am very disappointed. Anyway, are you coming to MO in September or October? Probably not September I bet since it coincides with F1 at Indy again this year right? Best regards, Rich ;-) just kidding above. I should swap out my hats to give to Carlos but I am sticking with the stock suspension for now. 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is
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#5. Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:56:32 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? on 8/21/02 3:31 PM, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: I just gave up on the front rotors out of complete frustration. WTF is up > with caliper bracket bolts? My God!! For the life of me, I could not get > those things lose with my breaker bar. I gave up and just finished up all > the pad changing and decided to go back later (like tomorrow) to change the > front rotors. We did warn you... > Is there a secret to these? Are power tools a must? Are these the one set > of bolts that require turning in the opposite direction of normal? Nope! They're standard bolts. > Do I just need to be sure the car is ridiculously well-supported so I can > throw ALL of my bodyweight into it? That's exactly it. Use a well fitting half-inch drive 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. And be sure to wear gloves, cause when those babies let go you're going to punch something hard, trust me! Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Kin Fong
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:04:50 -0400 From: Kin Fong <kfong@optonline.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? I remember when I change my euro-rotors back in two year ago. First I had try the breaker bar. But I find out using a 1/2" wrench with a 7/8" dia. x 22" long metal pipe insert into the wrench handle works better. Make sure put a lot of pressure on the bolt toward the back of rotor and at the same time turning the wrench. This will prevent to strip the head. again "WATCH YOUR FINGERS" Good Luck Kin 97///m3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:28:48 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? Yes, and this is a person who is finicky about his tools. It's funny how you get when bolts are stuck that good. you just want to get the @#$@# off no matter what the cost. - reid On 8/21/02 13:41, "Tom Byrum" <mycroft@academus.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:32:12 -0400 > From: Tom Byrum <mycroft@academus.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? > >> We tried a breaker bar. Hell, we even ended up using his TORQUE wrench as a >> breaker bar. Hammer the torque wrench onto the bolt, stand on the wrench, > > Hammer? Torque wrench? I hope you guys didn't expect it to ever > measure accurately again without being recalibrated. Why? Was it just > longer than anything else you had around? > > I've always thought that non-beam type wrenches were precision > calibrated, and that even being dropped can upset this. I even take > my wrench inside in the winter to avoid heat cycling. Am I over > cautious? I also never use the wrench to loosen bolts (that's what my . > 5in sockets are for). > > Tom Byrum > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:29:32 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? There is no good place for additional leverage back there in the wheelwell. - reid On 8/21/02 14:01, "Jeff Stowe" <jrstowe@pacbell.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:05:42 -0700 > From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > Subject: Rotor Tools. WTF? > > Jonathon, > > Since you are such a slight person (ha ha) you should try adding about two > feet of pipe to your breaker bar to increase leverage. The bolts are > standard thread and will come loose if you apply enough force. Try to make > sure you are using a six point socket if at all possible and really lay into > them. > > Maybe you should consider hitting the gym once in a while (BFG) > > jeff
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:44:43 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? Two Words: Air Tools. A cheap 29.95 impact wrench would save you hours and hours of blood, sweat and tears. However, I too understand the dilemma of forking out $400 for a decent compressor is painful, and there is also the part of "where do I put it". After working in a real shop with a lift and air tools, I am so spoiled. I need to spend a good $2k to get a short lift and an air compressor. Not to worry: I am next. I will be getting into the replacing of shocks, bushings and brake bits very soon, I'm just putting off the inevitable now. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Reid Conti [mailto:reid@conti.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 4:32 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:29:32 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? There is no good place for additional leverage back there in the wheelwell. - reid On 8/21/02 14:01, "Jeff Stowe" <jrstowe@pacbell.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:05:42 -0700 > From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > Subject: Rotor Tools. WTF? > > Jonathon, > > Since you are such a slight person (ha ha) you should try adding about two > feet of pipe to your breaker bar to increase leverage. The bolts are > standard thread and will come loose if you apply enough force. Try to make > sure you are using a six point socket if at all possible and really lay into > them. > > Maybe you should consider hitting the gym once in a while (BFG) > > jeff ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from K Quistorff
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:08:29 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? An important piece of this puzzle is the rear camber on your car vs. others. Should be about the same between M3s on stock springs and OEM alignment specs, but if either has been changed, it can have a significant effect on whether or not the rear tires rub the fenders. When I installed coilovers and lowered mine by 1", the stock camber changed to -2.2 degrees per side, both front and rear. When I went in for alignment, I went with -1.4 degrees per side rear camber, about 0.3 degrees more vertical than OEM nominal spec. This was no problem with stock (ET +41mm) 17 x 8.5's w/245/40R17 Yoko AVS Sports. But when I installed my race tires/wheels (Victoracer 245/45R17 on +43 mm offset wheels, 2 mm more inboard), the combination of taller and wider-treaded tires rubbed the rear fenders excessively, even rubbed the inside of the quarterpanels above the fenders. I had to roll my rear fender lips and also go back to OEM rear camber, -1.7 degrees, to get this wheel/tire arrangement to clear everything in the rear. Keith Quistorff 1996 M3 ----------------- Original Message: Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:13:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in the back. Well, I've seen it first hand :) Just wondering if that's an anamoly or if it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my car. This car also had this fenders slightly rolled. The only other person I know with the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his fenders.... =) Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back? Thanks, Chester
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#11. Is this stereo equipment any use? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:00:03 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Is this stereo equipment any use? Hey stereo geeks, uh...I mean audiophiles, I have been tripping over this Sony XM-1002HX 200Watt x 2 Bridgeable amplifier for about a year and half now. Can I make any use of this by integrating it into my HK system in the M3, or should I just Ebay this thing? I also have to Infinity Reference 6x9's that will handle the 200 watts each and a Profile Electronic Crossover. Any ideas? Thanks for the input, Mel