E36M3 #2539

This digest contains the following messages:

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#1. Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:31:59 -0500
From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rotor Tools. WTF?

on 8/21/02 5:11 PM, Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> wrote:

> Since you are such a slight person (ha ha) you should try adding about two
> feet of pipe to your breaker bar to increase leverage.  The bolts are
> standard thread and will come loose if you apply enough force.  Try to make
> sure you are using a six point socket if at all possible and really lay into
> them.
> 
> Maybe you should consider hitting the gym once in a while (BFG)

No no! What he needs to do is pork out on burgers, fries and milkshakes for
a month or two and put on maybe 50 lbs. Or find a 300 lb helper named Bubba.

Neil
96 M3

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#2. Is this stereo equipment any use? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:40:00 -0400
From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Is this stereo equipment any use?

Hey Mel,

>>I have been tripping over this Sony XM-1002HX 200Watt x 2 Bridgeable
amplifier for about a year and half now.  Can I make any use of this by
integrating it into my HK system in the M3, <<

You may need a Real stereo geek for this , but allow me to venture that this
sounds like it might make an awsome Subwoofer amp!  Even not bridged, you
can drive the hell out of 2 rear subs...Why not use it to drive a pair of
JLAudio Stealboxes mounted there in your rear deck replacing your rear fill,
which you dont need anyway!

Paul Elliott
---------------------------------------------------------
'99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS  crank pulley:
11 psi;  AA Water Injection;  Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension;
Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:31:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF?

I just picked up a 12 volt impact wrench from Harbor Freight for
track use. (Already have an air one for home).

Might be a good for track use or occasional bolts.

I'll give a report on how it holds up after next week at the Glen.

Carey
--- Mel Silva <melsilva@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:44:43 -0500
> From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com>
> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF?
> 
> Two Words: Air Tools.  A cheap 29.95 impact wrench would save you
> hours and
> hours of blood, sweat and tears.  However, I too understand the
> dilemma of
> forking out $400 for a decent compressor is painful, and there is
> also the
> part of "where do I put it".  After working in a real shop with a
> lift and
> air tools, I am so spoiled.  I need to spend a good $2k to get a
> short lift
> and an air compressor.
> 
> Not to worry: I am next.  I will be getting into the replacing of
> shocks,
> bushings and brake bits very soon, I'm just putting off the
> inevitable now.
> 
> Mel
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Reid Conti [mailto:reid@conti.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 4:32 PM
> To: E36M3
> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF?
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:29:32 -0700
> From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net>
> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rotor Tools. WTF?
> 
> There is no good place for additional leverage back there in the
> wheelwell.
> 
> - reid
> 
> On 8/21/02 14:01, "Jeff Stowe" <jrstowe@pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
> > Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:05:42 -0700
> > From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net>
> > Subject: Rotor Tools. WTF?
> >
> > Jonathon,
> >
> > Since you are such a slight person (ha ha) you should try adding
> about two
> > feet of pipe to your breaker bar to increase leverage.  The bolts
> are
> > standard thread and will come loose if you apply enough force. 
> Try to
> make
> > sure you are using a six point socket if at all possible and
> really lay
> into
> > them.
> >
> > Maybe you should consider hitting the gym once in a while (BFG)
> >
> > jeff
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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#4. Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:11:10 -0700
From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rotor Tools. WTF?




>From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net>
>
>Use a well fitting half-inch drive 6 point socket and a
>long breaker bar. And be sure to wear gloves, cause when those babies let 
>go
>you're going to punch something hard, trust me!
>

haha!  I've been there before.  I gave the bolts another try after work this 
evening and they came right off.  No problem!  I guess the Liquid Wrench I 
sprayed on 7 hours ago worked its way through all the rust.  Amen!

Yet another task I'll never have to pay a mechanic to do again.  Yippee!

Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Jonathan L.





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#5. Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:40:30 -0700
From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net>
Subject: Re: Rotor Tools. WTF?

But.. you see.. in.. uh..

DDDDDDDDDDDOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you'd think two reasonably intelligent guys could have figured this out...

god I feel stupid.

- reid

On 8/21/02 18:02, "S Lafredo" <slafredo@mac.com> wrote:

> Turn the steering wheel and use a 1/2" breaker bar.
> 
> On Wednesday, August 21, 2002, at 05:31  PM, Reid Conti wrote:
> 
>> 
>> There is no good place for additional leverage back there in the
>> wheelwell.
> 

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#6. Re: [E36M3] What are you guys paying for an alignment? - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:17:05 -0500
From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [E36M3] What are you guys paying for an alignment?

Bimmerhaus did a four wheel alignment and corner weighted my car (with me in
it) for a whomping $160.  They appear to know something about E36 M3s.

Alain - (why yes, my tongue was in my cheek)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net>
To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: [E36M3] What are you guys paying for an alignment?


> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 06:30:06 -0700
> From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net>
> Subject: [E36M3] What are you guys paying for an alignment?
>
> >
> >Hey all -
> >Just took my car (1995 M3) in for a 4-wheel alignment and it
> >cost me $141.  I thought it was a bit expensive and wanted
> >to know what people are paying these days.  The shop
> >(Curry's Auto Service - Chantilly, VA) says the M3 is
> >"special" and costs more to align.
> >
> >Comments?
> >
> >Wes
> >'95 M3
> My last 4 wheel alignment was $125.  I had them do it with me sitting in
> the car.  Set to my specs.  Jay
>
>
>
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>

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#7. RE:  Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s?? - from The Buch
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 20:20:16 -0700
From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net>
Subject: RE:  Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s??

I have 245/40 17 SO3s on the back of my '99 with the stock 10-spokes and
a TCK Streetline suspension (H&R OEs and Koni SAs) ... no rubbing that I
am aware of, and no comments from any mechanics suggesting the
possibility ... it might be close though, because when I first put the
new tires on there was a definite burning rubber smell from the rears
when I pulled into the garage for the first month ... PS > wouldn't buy
these tires again - not nearly as good as the original Pilots!!

Regards,      Doug

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:13:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Rubbing issues with 245/40R17 S03s??

So I've heard rumors that 245/40R17 SO3s on 8.5" wheels (ET41) rub in
the back.
 Well, I've seen it first hand :)  Just wondering if that's an anamoly
or if
it's something that's guaranteed to happen if I put 245/40s on my car.
This
car also had this fenders slightly rolled.  The only other person I know
with
the S03s in that size is Wayne Miller, but he drastically rolled his
fenders....  =)

Anyone out there with a relatively stock setup (no rolled fenders, stock

wheels, etc) with the 245/40s in the back?

Thanks,
Chester

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rotor Tools. WTF? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 20:21:03 -0400
From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org>
Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rotor Tools. WTF?

On my other car, I've used a technique where I place a 1/2" drive ratchet 
and socket firmly on the bolt head, then bring up a floor jack slowly under 
the handle.  The mechanical advantage of the jack allows me to use the 
weight of the car to break the bolt free.  When it does go, it's pretty 
undramatic.  Sometimes it just starts to turn a bit more freely, and 
sometimes it breaks free with a loud crack.

WARNING - this is dangerous and probably stupid!  I use it as a last 
resort.  Be very careful to keep the socket square with the bolt head, and 
use eye protection.  Basically, be smart about it.

  - Chris

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#9. Re: Rotor Tools - from Brad Ahrens
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 05:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brad Ahrens <txsaggie97@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rotor Tools

I did mine over the weekend.  Yeah at first I was
having trouble getting leverage due to the space
inside the wheel well, but if you make use of the
swivel head on the breaker bar and pull the bar
towards you after its on the nut (with the bar approx
horizontal) I had space from the wheel well to get my
weight over it and "press" it down.  May have even had
room to get a pipe on it.  A few squeaks and it was
all good.  The other side were you have to life "up"
was a bit tougher but still managable.  

Must have been the Special K with Red Berries....!

While trying to keep the wrench inside the well and
keeping the bar 90 degrees with the socket it was
definitely tough.



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#10. Opinions on Powerflex RTB's - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 11:06:19 -0500
From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com>
Subject: Opinions on Powerflex RTB's

Hi, Gruppe-
	I'll be inspecting my tuna can fix tonight on the Poly RTB's I got 
from Bimmerworld, but since the discrepancy between the carrier bolt and 
the bushing's central shaft is the culprit, I'm interested to know if 
anyone using the Powerflex can recall any fittment issues or excessive 
tolerances in that area or if you're simply pleased as punch with how 
they operate.
	The central shafts on the current bushings are rough and grooved as 
if the inside was quickly run out on a lathe and poorly at that. A poor 
finish for application on such a fine vehicle.

I appreciate all thoughts and comments.
Thanks,
Steve

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