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#1. Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 10:37:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant This discussion came up a while ago. It was said that if you live in an area where sewage is treated, you would be able to flush it as the treatment center would take care of it. Not sure of it, though. Chester --- Jason Jensen <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:28:25 -0400 > From: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant > > And for that matter where do you dispose of the stuff? I'm sure it isn't > exactly fit for the storm drain, but last time I changed coolant no matter > where I went no one would take the stuff...Ended up in a hole next to my > parking lot...(covered of course to protect the dogs, cats, and kids) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: 18" Racing Slicks? - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:44:20 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 18" Racing Slicks? > driving slicks is different from driving Hoosiers. Why practice on > Hoosiers if you'll race on slicks? The reason to run them is cost: > they are about the same price as Hoosiers, and last as long! The ONLY > reason to run Hoosiers is if the race rules require it -- i.e. stock > or prepared classes. i agree. i you are racing in mod on slicks, by all means practice on slicks. > Now if it is just a lapping day / school, then run Toyo's. Don't run > Hoosiers... Toyo's are cheaper, last forever, and provide plenty of > feedback. i'll have to try the toyos--my tire guy can't get them, at least no cheaply. i've been running kumho's and they have been pretty decent in grip/wear/feedback, but once they get hot (5-8 _hard_ laps), they get greasy and take _forever_ to come back. jvh next set will be toyos, from somewhere...
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:51:19 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant Your local dump should take all this type (fluids) material. rich > From: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> > Reply-To: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:33:55 -0500 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant > > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:28:25 -0400 > From: "Jason Jensen" <jasonjensen75@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant > > And for that matter where do you dispose of the stuff? I'm sure it isn't > exactly fit for the storm drain, but last time I changed coolant no matter > where I went no one would take the stuff...Ended up in a hole next to my > parking lot...(covered of course to protect the dogs, cats, and kids) > > J > > >> From: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> >> Reply-To: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> >> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >> Subject: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant >> Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:13:50 -0500 >> >> Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:05:15 -0400 >> From: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> >> Subject: Draining Engine Coolant >> >> Does anyone have a trick for draining engine coolant without making a toxic >> slippery mess in the garage? It seems like it is going to get really >> messy..is it possible to siphon it out? >> >> Cheers, >> >> Noah
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Engine Coolant Disposal WAS Draining Engine Coolant - from Philip
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 11:19:56 -0700 From: Philip <estorilphil@highstream.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine Coolant Disposal WAS Draining Engine Coolant Look up places where they dispose of hazardous materials in your local phone book. They'll take wood varnish, paint, used oil, etc etc. If you live in Orange County, there's a place off Laguna Canyon Road I think... Phil -----Original Message----- From: Paci, Noah Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 10:34 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine Coolant Disposal WAS Draining Engine Coolant Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:26:34 -0400 From: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine Coolant Disposal WAS Draining Engine Coolant The local dump (Fairfax county, VA) has a coolant disposal tank that you can dump it in. Your tax dollars at work -----Original Message----- From: Jason Jensen [mailto:jasonjensen75@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 1:28 PM To: Paci, Noah; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant And for that matter where do you dispose of the stuff? I'm sure it isn't exactly fit for the storm drain, but last time I changed coolant no matter where I went no one would take the stuff...Ended up in a hole next to my parking lot...(covered of course to protect the dogs, cats, and kids) J
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant - from David Bauer
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:36:46 -0500 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant Try this site for looking up disposal centers. It worked for me in Houston. http://www.earth911.org Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jason Jensen [mailto:jasonjensen75@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 1:28 PM To: Paci, Noah; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Draining Engine Coolant And for that matter where do you dispose of the stuff? I'm sure it isn't exactly fit for the storm drain, but last time I changed coolant no matter where I went no one would take the stuff...Ended up in a hole next to my parking lot...(covered of course to protect the dogs, cats, and kids) J
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: 18" Racing Slicks? - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 11:37:38 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: 18" Racing Slicks? Thanks to everyone for all the info. At this point, I'm 99% certain that he's going with some "regular" racing tires, if he find appropriate sizes. Possibly the Pirellie P-Zero Cups, or something similar. The car does have safety equipement and is reinforced here and there, but I don't think it's up to the level that Andrew specified. Plus, the car has absolutely ridiculous amounts of power available, so something a little less sticky is probably a bit safer... Therefore, I'll be pushing for him to stick to regular ol' R-Compounds. Thanks again, Jonathan L. >From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> > > >CCA rule or not (on the fire system)...you definately shouldn't run slicks >without *ALL* the safety gear: suit, gloves, properly mounted seat, full >cage (preferably through the front firewall...aside from a safety >standpoint...these things grip! which puts larger forces on the suspension >mounting points, which in turn need extra reinforcements), and a fire >system. > >Hell, proper racing heim jointed control arms (not factory ball joints in >single shear) are a must. (Unless you want to replace control arms once a >weekend). > >Not only are slicks faster, increasing the energy in a crash, but what >makes >them faster (grip) breaks stuff on the car alot faster. > >Slicks are the last step in developing a quasi-pro style race car, or for >use on a full blown pro car. > >And they're not even going to work right unless you can get the load close >to the design requirements of the tire. That means downforce...most slicks >would scoff at a LTW wing on stilts. They need *real* downforce. Unless >they were designed to be a tire for a spec series like Clio Cup (support >for >BTCC) or the like... > >Not for lapping days. > ></soapbox> ;-) > >Andrew >http://www.taylorautosport.com/ > > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Street vs. Track settings - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 11:59:23 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Street vs. Track settings At 09:23 AM 8/27/02, twisty M3 wrote: >Any in between settings that anyone would care to recommend? When I had the bearing hats swapped, I had about 2.5 deg neg up front, 1.7 deg neg on the rear. Seemed quite neutral, and a good compromise street & track. That was the settings when I got 40K out of the set of Pilot Sports <g> - street use only. YMWMCV - Your Mileage Will Most Certainly Vary :-) Jim Bassett - easy on street tires, hard on motors
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#8. Questions about brakes - from david tow
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:50:50 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Questions about brakes My 95 M3 has traveled more than 79k miles and still has the original brake pads and rotors. The mechanic from the Wheel Works checked them a few days ago while balancing my wheels and told me that they would need to be replaced right away. When I confirmed with the store manager, however, I was told that they still had a few thousand miles left. Isn't the brake lining light on on the dashboard if the brakes need service? The light has not been on yet in my case. Who's right? The mechanic or the store manager? It looks to me that I might need to have the brake service done pretty soon. Should I use the OEM parts or aftermarket parts? I don't race my car, so I care more about durability/quietness than hitting-a-tree braking performance. Of course I care about the cost too. So far I've learned that Repco (PBR now?) metal master pads and stock rotors are good for street use. I've got a estimate from Wheel Works. OEM parts and labor without the new rotors would cost more than $800! Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's shockingly expensive! Info and tips are fully appreciated. David Tow / / / / | / | ______ 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#9. Re: Jumping out of gear...symptom of? - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:14:24 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Jumping out of gear...symptom of? Bent or worn shift fork. Did you accidentally hit R gate instead of first recently? I don't know of a weakness from the factory on this part, but low mileage used transmissions are not terribly expensive and the rebuild for this problem is fairly easy as well. James ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance World Challenge / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Please inquire about our new line of performance street, track, and full race clutch/flywheel systems.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:08:02 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes At 12:53 PM 8/27/02, david tow wrote: >The light has not been on yet in my case. Who's right? The mechanic or >the store manager? Neither. Your car is. >OEM parts and labor without the new rotors would cost more than $800! Holy cow! I don't care where you live, I'll come do the brake job for $500. Parts included. You buy the beer, however <bg>. >Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's shockingly expensive! > >Info and tips are fully appreciated. Learn to do it yourself - it is shockingly easy :-) And rotors aren't too expensive: $60/each for fronts, $72/each for rears. Go to Racepad.com, there's a pretty good write-up on brake pad changing. Or buy a Bentley manual, but I believe I performed my first brake pad change with only the Racepad.com instructions. You can get pads & rotors from numerous sources - I happen to use Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage for a lot of brake components. Feel free to email me with any other questions. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - many, many brake changes :-) 1993 325is #44 KP - no pithy comment, sorry