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#1. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:14:22 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Re: >OEM parts and labor without the new rotors would cost more than >$800! Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's shockingly >expensive! Brembo front rotors are under $50 each. Rears will be more. Pads will be around $50/axle (l & r). So parts will be around $400. Apart from a 7mm hex wrench (available from your local Snap-On / Mac / whatever truck), no special tools are needed. It may be a job you want to do yourself if you're concerned with saving money ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#2. Street vs. Track settings - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:26:49 -0400 From: "Steve Hazard" <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: Street vs. Track settings JL, My car which is now just a weekend warrior and Autocross beast with an ocassional track day has the following settings. Front: 3.25 Neg Camber 7 degrees of Caster 0 Toe Rear: 2 degrees Neg Camber Just a tick of toe in :-) can't remember exact setting Suspension is TC Kline Race C/O with D/A Koni's 450lb 60MM H&R front springs 550lb H&R rears....rears are very short travel springs. The car is fine on the street. Darty, with somewhat heavier steering......and is something I have adapted to after running this alignment for 2 years now. Front tires don't last very long, but I would rather live with this expensive and not bother with constantly adjusting my Camber plates and Tie rods after each event. At the track you will notice a significant difference in slip angles. The increased Camber up front really will balance the car under load in corners. You can even dial in more Camber, if you like. HTH, Steve -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 09:20:31 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Street vs. Track settings Okay, so I'll be getting my car alligned tomorrow, and I can't help but think that it might be "fun" to make some changes. My current settings are: FRONT Camber: -2.0 Caster: 7.0 Toe: .05 REAR Camber: -1.6 Toe: .15 (will be going to .10) Just spoke with my "suspension guy" and he suggested staying at those caster and toe settings (once I fix the rear to .10), but that I should go up to -3.0 front camber and -2.0 rear. Of course, this is still my daily driver, and I don't want to change before each event, as I'm sure I'll never get it back to normal. Does anyone run this much camber on the street? I already get some funky wear, but can swap tires around in such a way that it isn't terrible. How much worse would it be with an extra degee of neg. camber? Any in between settings that anyone would care to recommend? In all honesty, I think the car feels incredibly neutral as is, so I haven't really convinced myself to make any changes. If it can be made better, though... ;) Thanks for any input, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com -
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:27:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes hi david couple things: - don't let wheel works, jiffy lube, or midas touch your car. don't even let them talk about it ;-). there are lots and lots of extremely talented and reasonably priced independent BMW mechanics who have more than a 4 hour general training course to their automotive credit. - $800 is too much - brakes are easy to change yourself. it takes minimal tools, and only a couple of hours the first time. - i've heard that the metal bits in Metal Master pads become hot under braking and melt into the paint on the wheels. i'd stick with the OE pads in your case. i bet if you tell the list where you live, you'll get some good recommendations on a good BMW shop to take your car -- if you're not a fan of doing this work yourself. good luck! zs --- david tow <david_tow@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:50:50 -0700 > From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Questions about brakes > > My 95 M3 has traveled more than 79k miles and still > has the original brake > pads and rotors. The mechanic from the Wheel Works > checked them a few days > ago while balancing my wheels and told me that they > would need to be > replaced right away. When I confirmed with the > store manager, however, I > was told that they still had a few thousand miles > left. Isn't the brake > lining light on on the dashboard if the brakes need > service? The light has > not been on yet in my case. Who's right? The > mechanic or the store > manager? > > It looks to me that I might need to have the brake > service done pretty soon. > Should I use the OEM parts or aftermarket parts? > I don't race my car, so > I care more about durability/quietness than > hitting-a-tree braking > performance. Of course I care about the cost too. > So far I've learned that > Repco (PBR now?) metal master pads and stock rotors > are good for street use. > I've got a estimate from Wheel Works. OEM parts > and labor without the new > rotors would cost more than $800! Rotors are $90 to > $190 (?!) each. That's > shockingly expensive! > > Info and tips are fully appreciated. > > David Tow / / / / | / | > ______ > 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | > o/______\o > Red/gray / / / / | > (OO=00=OO) > david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| > []*=XX=*[] > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN > Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:31:55 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes If you're happy with the stock pads, and it sounds like you must be, why not stick with them. I went to Porterfield R4S for less dust and slightly better performance (IMHO) and haven't looked back. ;) Not sure what the price on stock pads is though. Oh, and $800 to change pads??? That's insane, unless it's part of an Insp 2, including changing ALL fluids. If that's just for brake pads and sensors... Run! Run like the wind. Shop around the 'net for deals on rotors if you need them. I was worried about changing pads on my own, but since I've started doing it, I can't believe how easy it is OR how much money I've saved. Either do it yourself or have a lister in your area help you out with it for the price of a 6 pack. ;) If you live in So Cal, I'd be happy to help you out. Jonathan L. >From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> > >My 95 M3 has traveled more than 79k miles and still has the original brake >pads and rotors. The mechanic from the Wheel Works checked them a few days >ago while balancing my wheels and told me that they would need to be >replaced right away. When I confirmed with the store manager, however, I >was told that they still had a few thousand miles left. Isn't the brake >lining light on on the dashboard if the brakes need service? The light has >not been on yet in my case. Who's right? The mechanic or the store >manager? > >It looks to me that I might need to have the brake service done pretty >soon. Should I use the OEM parts or aftermarket parts? I don't race my >car, so I care more about durability/quietness than hitting-a-tree braking >performance. Of course I care about the cost too. So far I've learned >that Repco (PBR now?) metal master pads and stock rotors are good for >street use. I've got a estimate from Wheel Works. OEM parts and labor >without the new rotors would cost more than $800! Rotors are $90 to $190 >(?!) each. That's shockingly expensive! > >Info and tips are fully appreciated. > >David Tow / / / / | / | ______ >95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o >Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) >david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] > > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#5. Questions about brakes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:41:18 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Questions about brakes Do it yourself for a few hundred dollars instead and it only takes a few tools and a Bentley manual is helpful. I recommend OE equipment (Jurid or Textar) for the pads and OE rotors or the Balos (Steve D). Steve D or Nick Alexander can get you the pads and the brake parts as well as many other places. You didn't mention any disdain for brake dust. With that in mind, you can't do better than the Jurid or Textars in my opinion. I hate PBR Metal Masters on my E30. I will never buy them again. They rattle and squeal and still create dust as far as I am concerned. I am going to try Mintex next and have pulled off the Metal Masters already. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is - for sale -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:50:50 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Questions about brakes My 95 M3 has traveled more than 79k miles and still has the original brake pads and rotors. The mechanic from the Wheel Works checked them a few days ago while balancing my wheels and told me that they would need to be replaced right away. When I confirmed with the store manager, however, I was told that they still had a few thousand miles left. Isn't the brake lining light on on the dashboard if the brakes need service? The light has not been on yet in my case. Who's right? The mechanic or the store manager? It looks to me that I might need to have the brake service done pretty soon. Should I use the OEM parts or aftermarket parts? I don't race my car, so I care more about durability/quietness than hitting-a-tree braking performance. Of course I care about the cost too. So far I've learned that Repco (PBR now?) metal master pads and stock rotors are good for street use. I've got a estimate from Wheel Works. OEM parts and labor without the new rotors would cost more than $800! Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's shockingly expensive! Info and tips are fully appreciated. David Tow / / / / | / | ______ 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[]
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:53:41 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Now rotors are even cheaper. It took forever for BMW to release the rear rotor rights to the OEM suppliers. We now have them in Zimmerman for $59F, $49 R. For a total of about $500, you could buy new rotors, performance pads, a Bentley manual with instructions, and all the tools to do the work. About 45 minutes for us to do 4 at the track, plan on a couple of hours your first time. James ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance World Challenge / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Please inquire about our new line of performance street, track, and full race clutch/flywheel systems.
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#7. Toyo source - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:55:34 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Toyo source Appalachian tire - www.racetire.com is my favorite source. Vilven Tire at 1-800-251-0017 supplies all the World Challenge tires - more likely to have the 255 size in stock. ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance World Challenge / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Please inquire about our new line of performance street, track, and full race clutch/flywheel systems.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Scott Yu
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 14:24:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Eurasian has brembo front E36M3 rotors for 43-45 each, and zimmerman rear for $35 each(!!) I just installed their zimmerman rears on my car, couldn't tell much of a difference at all from the stockers, except they didn't have a big 'ol 1.5mm lip like my old ones :) at $35 each, I can squeeze them into the "track consumables" budget along with the fronts ;) scott yu --- "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:14:22 -0700 > From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes > > Re: > >OEM parts and labor without the new rotors would > cost more than > >$800! Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's > shockingly > >expensive! > > Brembo front rotors are under $50 each. Rears will > be more. Pads will > be around $50/axle (l & r). So parts will be around > $400. Apart from > a 7mm hex wrench (available from your local Snap-On > / Mac / whatever > truck), no special tools are needed. It may be a job > you want to do > yourself if you're concerned with saving money ... > -- __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 15:07:47 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Try www.gapa.com for parts, I got my front rotors for around $48 ea, rears for about $65 IIRC. Pads, don't use stock. Stock pads dust like hell. I went with PBR Deluxes (not as harsh as the metalmasters). They stop better than stock, and don't dust AT ALL. Would not hold up well at a DE, but other than that, you should be set. I think I spent about $330 on parts all told (well, plus the SS brake lines I decided to splurge on :) My 95 made it about 62k before the light came on. Funny, when I bought the car @42k, they said 33% on the brakes left.. I was expecting to have to do em by 60. When the light didn't come on, I looked -- they looked like they were basicaly shot. 2 days later, the light came on. I started getting the low-pads squeal about the same time. Start buying parts now, you're not far off :) I did mine myself. Actually, a pretty enjoyable job. Except for the one stuck caliper bolt :) Make sure you wear gloves. Brakes are VERY dirty, and the dirt doesn't come off for days.. it dries your skin too. You will need: 4 rotors (2 front, 2 rear) 2 sets of pads (f&r) 4 rotor retaining screws (buy from BMW, less than $5 total I think) 2 wear sensors -- 1 front, one rear (there is only one per axle.. front left and right rear I believe.. this is not something that's obvious to the beginner) I recommend flushing your fluid/bleeding brakes while you're at it. - reid On Tuesday, Aug 27, 2002, at 12:53 US/Pacific, david tow wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:50:50 -0700 > From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Questions about brakes > > My 95 M3 has traveled more than 79k miles and still has the original > brake pads and rotors. The mechanic from the Wheel Works checked them > a few days ago while balancing my wheels and told me that they would > need to be replaced right away. When I confirmed with the store > manager, however, I was told that they still had a few thousand miles > left. Isn't the brake lining light on on the dashboard if the brakes > need service? The light has not been on yet in my case. Who's right? > The mechanic or the store manager? > > It looks to me that I might need to have the brake service done pretty > soon. Should I use the OEM parts or aftermarket parts? I don't race > my car, so I care more about durability/quietness than hitting-a-tree > braking performance. Of course I care about the cost too. So far > I've learned that Repco (PBR now?) metal master pads and stock rotors > are good for street use. I've got a estimate from Wheel Works. OEM > parts and labor without the new rotors would cost more than $800! > Rotors are $90 to $190 (?!) each. That's shockingly expensive! > > Info and tips are fully appreciated. > > David Tow / / / / | / | ______ > 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o > Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) > david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the worldís largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of > the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#10. door panel adhesion - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:15:22 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: door panel adhesion Hey Guys and Gals, The plastic piece that was attached with some mystery glue to my door panel has come loose. It is the plastic one that has friction fasteners at the top of the panel that pushes in horizontally. I have tried Liquid Nails and hot glue to no avail. Does anyone know what else to try? Thanks. Gary Preece 95 Avus M3 PS - I went out and bought all new fasteners to use after I can get at least a little adhesion. NOT CHEAP! --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
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#11. [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:32:21 EDT From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors Jeremy writes.... << My car was down on power, especially low end, with the installation of the larger meter while running the stock injectors. >> Jeremy...this doesn't really make any sense. If the stock injectors were maxing out you'd notice it at high rpm where the engine is making peak power. That is where flow rate is highest. At low rpm, the stock injectors are not even close to maxing out. If you indeed noticed a low rpm effect, I'd submit it was the result of some other variable. -Roger
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#12. seat replacement - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:21:14 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: seat replacement Hey Guys and Gals, I am thinking of taking out my current seats, restoring the driver's seat, and then putting them into storage for when I sell the car. As their replacement, I am thinking of Recaro, Sparco, etc. Has anyone done this? What fits best? I remember seeing somewhere that someone makes sliders to put seats on. I would like one that will allow the kidlets to get into the back seat. I really don't like leather and would like to save some weight in addition to losing the belly. (Gained 1 horsepower now! The car with me in it...that is.) Thanks. Gary Preece Avus 95 M3 --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
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#13. Anyone have a source for fog light air ducts? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:20:07 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Anyone have a source for fog light air ducts? Does anyone have a source for air ducts (to be used for brake cooling) that fit in the E36 M3 fog light opening and accepts a 3" hose? If so, does the air duct require modification or can it be slapped right in? Finally, does it mount on the front or rear of the bumper? Thanks for your help! Geof
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#14. FS: clearance sale - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:52:58 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: clearance sale Alright, I tried before without success. Now everything has to go. **** e30 M3 **** 1 set F/R Metalmaster brake pads: brand new. I'll even throw in a set of half-used ones F/R. $25 1 passenger euro ellipsoid: used, not new but very good condition. I'll even throw in the rear half of the driver's side light, just order the lens and you've got a set. $50 **** e36 M3 **** Active Autowerke front strut bar: excellent condition. $180 clutch slave: used, works fine. Taken off at 75k as part of anal maintenance routine. $25 LTW flywheel/factory clutch: brand new. Fidanza lightweight flywheel, factory clutch/pressure plate, and throwout bearing. $725 1 set factory 3.0 cams: used, great shape. Taken off at 75k after pampered life w/Mobil 1 every 3k miles. The Schricks are taking over. $250 **** general stuff **** K&D strut spring compressor: never used. $25 1 set aluminum racing shell brackets: used. $65 ALL PRICES INCLUDED SHIPPING TO THE US. Thanks, Bill Molina 88 M3 95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#15. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Ed Yee
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 22:56:26 -0400 From: "Ed Yee" <edyee@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes With all due respect, I'd have to disagree with using Jurids or Textars. My 97M3 came with Jurids from the factory. After just 1 day of driving, my wheels were noticeably black with dust. I got OEM Pagids and Brembo rotors all around from Steve D and it takes about 4 days to get the same amount of dust on my wheels. The brake modulation feels stock (maybe the Jurids are softer and grab better). And since the Pagids are OEM, they have the proper anti squeal backing plates. My brakes have never rattled or squealed. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 4:43 PM Subject: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:41:18 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Questions about brakes Do it yourself for a few hundred dollars instead and it only takes a few tools and a Bentley manual is helpful. I recommend OE equipment (Jurid or Textar) for the pads and OE rotors or the Balos (Steve D). Steve D or Nick Alexander can get you the pads and the brake parts as well as many other places. You didn't mention any disdain for brake dust. With that in mind, you can't do better than the Jurid or Textars in my opinion. I hate PBR Metal Masters on my E30. I will never buy them again. They rattle and squeal and still create dust as far as I am concerned. I am going to try Mintex next and have pulled off the Metal Masters already. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is - for sale
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#16. Drifting racing? - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 20:20:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Drifting racing? Recently some friends mentioned that a mutual friend does drifting, or something like that. Apparently he runs with this group that goes to tracks and the intent is to "drift" through the various turns (for instance I heard they run at Buttonwillow). I wouldn't imagine this is timed, and I can't even speculate what sort of tires are used for an event such as this, but I'm curious if anyone is involved with this or knows what it is about. I'm so to tire care and monitoring times that this seems 180 degrees from time trialing or racing, but also seems fun in an abstract way. Not that I'm looking to participate. Then again, the wife does have a Camaro, and it could probably drift with the best of them. And this may be off topic, but the curiosity is tearing me apart. Jason __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#17. 3M headlight film remnant - Free - from mroblin@att.net
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:19:28 -0700 From: <mroblin@att.net> Subject: 3M headlight film remnant - Free Hello Listers, I've got a leftover piece of 3M 40 mil headlight film from xpel, 12"x9.75". Should be enough to cover two foglights. If anyone wants it, they can have it, just let me know. Murray Murray Roblin mroblin@att.net
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#18. Re: 18" Racing Slicks? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:28:14 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 18" Racing Slicks? on 8/27/02 10:33 AM, "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > However, there was no mention that his friend was racing and seemed to > imply it was schools/lapping days, in which case Hoosiers/Kumhos/Pilot > Cup/Toyo's are just fine. Slicks are very fast, but also harder to > drive==more dangerous. Added to which a school may not allow slicks. We (Hoosier) don't. Gotta be DOT approved. Neil 96 M3
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#19. Re: Toyo Ra-1 (was18" Racing Slicks) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:57:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Toyo Ra-1 (was18" Racing Slicks) on 8/27/02 3:23 PM, "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > i'll have to try the toyos--my tire guy can't get them, at least no > cheaply. i've been running kumho's and they have been pretty decent > in grip/wear/feedback, but once they get hot (5-8 _hard_ laps), they > get greasy and take _forever_ to come back. > > jvh > next set will be toyos, from somewhere... John, Another Digester referred me to: Vilven Tire PO Box 9 101 West Main Street Royal, IL 61871 888-775-8646 I paid $175 each delivered via UPS ground to Indiana. Since you're in IL you'll have sales tax as well of course. Price is the same shaved or not. I'll see what they're like at Gingerman in a couple of weeks. Neil 96 M3
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#20. Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:17:40 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about brakes Don't trust Jonathan. He just wants the beer <g> -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Either do > it yourself or have a lister in your area help you out with it for the price > of a 6 pack. ;) If you live in So Cal, I'd be happy to help you out. > > Jonathan L. > > >
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#21. Independent BMW shop in Minneapolis? - from Alex Aditya
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 12:47:06 +0000 From: "Alex Aditya" <adityaax@hotmail.com> Subject: Independent BMW shop in Minneapolis? Hi guys/gals, Can anybody recommend a shop (preferably independent) for pre-purchase inspection? A friend is trying to get a 98 328i, he wants to have it inspected first before deciding. Please reply to adityaax@hotmail.com Thanks in advance. Alex _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com