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#1. Questions about brakes - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:34:37 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Questions about brakes Noah, >>The dust concern is not a real one<< Im not so sure about that....After buying a set of 3 pc Fikses worth $1000 each, the last thing you want to do is load up on stock pad's brake dust...Even if you keep after it a couple times a week for the outside exterior, there's still the inside surfaces which will just cake up with the stuff after a period of use. Im not saying you should give up braking ability, but there Are aftermarket pads, which, unlike the problems youve found with the MMs, stop well, are quiet, are clean, and in general, are satisfactory alternatives to the stock dusters. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Questions about brakes - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:38:34 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Questions about brakes Rich, >>. Personally, trying to eliminate brake dust is akin to eliminating any dust created when working in a wood shop. Dust is a component of braking like dust is a component of sawing/trimming/sanding wood.<< But, dont forget that German pads are mandated to contain Graphite, which is why your wheels begin looking like well used pencil erasers in short order. All pads may dust...But most, outside of Europe, do NOT contain graphite, making them much more liveable. Not all dust is equally obnoxious! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. RE: Questions about brakes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:39:33 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Questions about brakes I said >> >>. Personally, trying to eliminate brake dust is akin to eliminating any dust created when working in a wood shop. Dust is a component of braking like dust is a component of sawing/trimming/sanding wood.<< Paul responds with > > But, dont forget that German pads are mandated to contain Graphite, which is > why your wheels begin looking like well used pencil erasers in short order. > All pads may dust...But most, outside of Europe, do NOT contain graphite, > making them much more liveable. Not all dust is equally obnoxious! Yes, I know that even though I didn't elaborate that specific point in my already long-winded messages since I considered it generally already understood. Different pads dust more or less the same amount. The real difference is in the color of the dust and how well it will stick to the wheel as far as I am concerned. That is my point. I don't personally care for the Metal Master dust which turns brown when the wheel gets wet compared to the blacker dust from the OE pads which doesn't turn brown. Yes, the OE pad dust seems to either collect more on the wheel as the graphite either makes the dust stick to the wheel more or is it just more noticeable??. Either way, I hate Metal Masters' performance (or lack thereof, particularly in the rain) and the dust it does create. Regards, Rich
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#4. RE: Questions about brakes - from Paci, Noah
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:37:00 -0400 From: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> Subject: RE: Questions about brakes yeah, I agree with you regarding stock pads not being the best solution all around. Simplest, yes, best, debatable. Sadly the metal masters last so long that I have have experience with other pads, 25K and still very thick. I should just track the metal masters to destroy them, then I could get some other pads. Performance Friction Z Rated pads next stop. -Paci. -----Original Message----- From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] >> there Are aftermarket pads, which, unlike the problems youve found with the MMs, >>stop well, are quiet, are clean, and in eneral, are >>satisfactory alternatives to the stock dusters.
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#5. Re: Anyone have a source for fog light air ducts? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:52:37 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Anyone have a source for fog light air ducts? on 8/28/02 8:13 AM, Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> wrote: > Does anyone have a source for air ducts (to be used for brake cooling) that > fit in the E36 M3 fog light opening and accepts a 3" hose? I think pretty much all the usual go-faster goodies guys have them. Certainly Turner and BMP both do, and I believe that Rogue has some carbon fiber versions. Personally I'm using the Bimmerworld kit, and bringing the air in through the stock ducts. Neil 96 M3
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors - from Jeremy Warfield
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:14:37 -0400 From: "Jeremy Warfield" <jww95@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors >>>I was thinking the same thing. If anything, larger injectors should have worse performance at low RPMs since they can't be controlled as precisely. My bet is that the software that came with the larger injectors was just better and that's why it ran better. Jeremy, which software did you run with the stock injectors? -Matt <<< I was running one of JC's early euro hfm chips with the stock injectors. The car did ping occasionally in second gear at low loads, but it was not a common occurence. The 17#/hr injectors also had 75k miles on them. With the current 24#/hr injectors, I also running conforti's software, but this is one of the newer chips with the 100 rpm bump in idle speed for the (soon to be) flywheel. So I attribute the smoothing of the upper rpm powerband to the higher rate injectors, but the bottom end gains were most likely the result of a more finely tuned air/fuel and timing curve. later jeremy-
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:15:23 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors I'm not sure we've decided whether this is a high-rev issue or an all-the-time issue. Is injector flow restricted by the head of the injector, where it actually spits fuel into the cylinder, or the interior plumbing BEFORE the head? Here's my point. Injectors pulse, right? Spit, spit, spit. If the flow restriction is in the head, or delivery part of the injector, WOT fuel loads will strain the injector at low revs AND high revs. If the restriction is BEFORE the head, IE in a part of the injector that flows constantly (very much unlike the head), then higher revs will be the only place you will find flow problems. See what I'm saying? Does anyone understand fuel injectors better than I do so they might be able to explain? :) - reid On Wednesday, Aug 28, 2002, at 13:13 US/Pacific, Jeremy Warfield wrote: >>>> I was thinking the same thing. If anything, larger > injectors should have worse performance at low RPMs > since they can't be controlled as precisely. My bet > is that the software that came with the larger > injectors was just better and that's why it ran > better. Jeremy, which software did you run with the > stock injectors? > -Matt > <<< > > > I was running one of JC's early euro hfm chips with the stock > injectors. > The car did ping occasionally in second gear at low loads, but it was > not a > common occurence. The 17#/hr injectors also had 75k miles on them. > With > the current 24#/hr injectors, I also running conforti's software, but > this > is one of the newer chips with the 100 rpm bump in idle speed for the > (soon > to be) flywheel. > > So I attribute the smoothing of the upper rpm powerband to the higher > rate > injectors, but the bottom end gains were most likely the result of a > more > finely tuned air/fuel and timing curve.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:49:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro HFM and Injectors --- Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > > I'm not sure we've decided whether this is a > high-rev issue or an > all-the-time issue. > > Is injector flow restricted by the head of the > injector, where it > actually spits fuel into the cylinder, or the > interior plumbing BEFORE > the head? > > Here's my point. Injectors pulse, right? Spit, > spit, spit. If the > flow restriction is in the head, or delivery part of > the injector, WOT > fuel loads will strain the injector at low revs AND > high revs. > > If the restriction is BEFORE the head, IE in a part > of the injector > that flows constantly (very much unlike the head), > then higher revs > will be the only place you will find flow problems. > > See what I'm saying? Does anyone understand fuel > injectors better than > I do so they might be able to explain? :) > > - reid Reid, Injectors are rated at a flow (lb/hr or volume/min or whatever) at some rated duty cycle and fuel pressure. Assuming that the fuel pressure is fixed, it falls out of the picture. The injector sprays either with every rev of the engine or with ever opening of the intake. Regardless, the injector can only be open for a certain period of time. If they spray every 10ms then it can't physically be open for more than 10ms since that's 100% duty. In practice, the maximum duty cycle that you can use is more like 80%. So, the injector is sized so that the maximum duty cycle is 80%. The operating point where maximum duty cycle is achieved is near the power peak (exactly at the power peak if the AFR is constant). At RPMs above the power peak, the amount of injector on time per spray decreases faster than the time between sprays decreases. Below the power peak, the amount of time between sprays increases faster than the on time. At the Torque peak the injector on time per spray is at the maximum, but there is a lot of time for that spray (since the RPMs are lower) so the duty cycle is still less than at the HP peak. I hope that this explanation isn't too complicated. I'm sure that if you do a Google search, you'll find an explanation with pictures and stuff. Regards, Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#9. RE: Questions about brakes - from david tow
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:05:26 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Questions about brakes Thanks a lot, Rich and all the listers that have offered me help! I've already looked up all the parts I need via Zygmunt, so I might not need the part numbers. I, however, am a little concerned that the front rotors are Brembo whereas the rear ones don't have any brand name listed there. Should I go ahead and order them anyway? Do they match? I am ordering Jurid brake pads front and back after talking to some of the listers. I personally don't really care about the brake dust just as long as the pads last and are quiet. Since my original Jurid sets have lasted way over 79k miles, I am happy with them. I really really appreciate all the listers that have offered me help! I will order the parts and work on them myself after I figure out the rotor issue mentioned above. Andrew, please keep your cell phone on 24 X 7! :o) >From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> >To: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> >Subject: RE: Questions about brakes >Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 11:28:34 -0400 > >David, > >Absolutely, I will work on a list for you when I get a moment. Let me know >if you really want it based on everyone else's responses which obviously >varied from mine as I don't want to waste my time if you don't need the OE >part numbers but will gladly do it if this is the route you are going to >take for certain. > >You won't have to replace the rear rotors if they are well within spec. >I'll try to dig some information up for you in this regard too. In >general, rotors only need replaced when they are worn beyond OE specs or >they are warped (rare occurrence for the most part and typically happens >when the wear is down to the OE specs). Some rotors have too much runout >and can feel like they are warped when they just aren't true. They could >potentially be resurfaced/trued if you can find someone that won't remove >too much material (Steve D does this IIRC). > >Best regards, > >Rich _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#10. FS: parts - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:08:22 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: FS: parts Cleaning up the garage and found these. For Sale: 1) H&R 5mm spacers (pair) with (10) 32mm extended lugs...used one autox season new: $100 selling for $50 + shipping 2) a pair of Michelin MXX3 in 255/40/17 3/16" of tread left (just above wear bars), very even wear (photo on request) $50 for pair + shipping (I live in Bethlehem, PA)...if you're close, delivery can be arranged 3) Luxo air dam slats (painted TechnoViolet)...I changed this to the honeycomb grille year's ago.....make me an offer regards, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001