E36M3 #2561

Friday, August 30, 2002 12:24:07

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. [E36M3] 96+ Spark Plugs - from Jay W. Hudson
#2. Re: [E36M3] Will these fit? - from nabli@earthlink.net
#3. 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing - from Dorffer, Rich
#4. Re: [E36M3] 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing - from Zack Steinkamp
#5. Wood Trim needed - from Ahmad Lutfeali
#6. OT: Stereo overhaul...need comments/advice/recommendations - from Wesley A. Nicolas
#7. oil pump nut, again - from Kris Welhart
#8. Re: 96+ Spark Plugs - from James McMillan
#9. Part #'s for Euro light plugs? - from Peter Guagenti
#10. Re: [E36M3] Part #'s for Euro light plugs? - from Chester Wong

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#1. [E36M3] 96+ Spark Plugs - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 06:13:29 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] 96+ Spark Plugs > >The plug BMW has listed for the '96+ M3's is the Bosch FGR 8 KQC. On >Bosch's web site, they list the 4303 (Plat +2) and the 4417 (Plat +4). Are >these all equivalent and I can use any of them, or should I go track down >the FGR 8 KQC plug? > >Thanks, >-- >Rex Tener >rex_tener@yahoo.com Many have had complaints with Bosch Plat +4. I've had the NGKs in for at least 10K, with good service. NGK BKR6EQUP retail ~$12 each. You can get 'em for $8. Try www.sparkplugs.com Jay

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Will these fit? - from nabli@earthlink.net
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:37:22 -0400 From: <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Will these fit? Yes, they will fit although it would be preferable to have the sport package on the 325i because of shock travel. The M3 front strut will have a tab on the body of the shock to connect the stabilizer bar but you will not use that unless you swapped the whole M3 suspension into the 325i. Ok maybe this is a trick question and I'm just on my first cup of java so I could be wrong. :-) Cheers, Jim E. ----- Original Message ----- From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 8:53 AM Subject: [E36M3] Will these fit? > Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 08:47:20 -0400 > From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> > Subject: Will these fit? > > Will the shocks from a 1995 E36 M3 fit on a 1995 E36 325i? > > David > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#3. 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:44:23 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing Well, I finally found some 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing that will work on my brake lines. It took a while to find and I must have contacted at least 25 companies before finding someone who not only made it with all the proper properties, but could sell it to me. No luck at Mouser, Newark, Philcap, or any of the usual suspects. I paid a ridiculous price for 50 feet of it (the minimum I could obtain and it is being shipped from Europe). They wanted me to buy 275 feet. It is 3:1 ratio flame retardant polyolefin clear heat shrink tubing with a 0.71" expanded diamter and a 0.24" with very good chemical and solvent resistance (up to 100 octane fuel, lubricating oil and hydraulic fluids) and very good flexibility. It has an operating range of -40 F to 275 F. Also, it only takes 175 F to start shrinking and up to 250 F for full recovery shrinking. I should be able to place my brake lines in my oven to shrink the tubing evenly. I may want to do this when the SO isn't looking :-) If anyone else is interested in some of it, let me know. I will let you all know how it works out since some of you have also expressed interest in doing this or frustrations in finding a proper heat shrink tubing. Regards, Rich - Now all I need to do is find the right color neon to compliment my freshly powder coated brake calipers ;-)

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#4. Re: [E36M3] 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 07:59:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 3:1 Ratio Clear Heat Shrink Tubing --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > Rich - Now all I need to do is find the right color > neon to compliment my freshly powder coated brake > calipers ;-) aww dude, don't forget the purple side marker lights! -zs ps ... why put heat shrink tubing on brake lines? (really ;-)

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#5. Wood Trim needed - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 15:14:14 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Wood Trim needed Group, The wooden trim on the gear console on my car (97 lux) is cracked and the dealer wants too much for it. $500 big ones to be precise. Any other alternatives? Thanks in advance. A.L. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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#6. OT: Stereo overhaul...need comments/advice/recommendations - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 11:19:31 -0400 From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: OT: Stereo overhaul...need comments/advice/recommendations Chester - Saw your post on the stereo topic. I have an EMPEG (Rio Car) MP3 player with 40GB of capacity. See http://www.empeg.com and http://empeg.comms.net/php/ubbthreads.php?Cat= for a VERY active community. The model is discontinued but can be had on Ebay for about $300-400 for a 10GB version. Also, if you go to http://www.riocar.org/ you will find one of the best FAQ's I've ever seen on any topic. With that being said, I put in an Xtant 604x which I got on E-bay to drive my a/d/s 345is front separates and rear Stealthboxes. I ran a set of Monster Cable XLN cables (the BEST on the market designed by David Navone and Richard Clark). While mounting the amp on a wooden board under my rear deck (amp has fan so it's OK), and using said cables, there is NO noise. I have over 1500 songs at my fingertips, I can even listen to an 8 hour audiobook without having to do anything (i.e. change discs, etc.) The clarity is Very, Very good. The along with my Jim Powell InV1si-Mirror (stealth V1 install with display inside Rear View mirror) are the two most enjoyable parts of my M3. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions. Wes '95 M3

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#7. oil pump nut, again - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:50:09 -0500 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: oil pump nut, again Hello Gruppe, With my recently increased motivation, I have moved a side project to the forefront and investigated the oil pump nut. I have an overreved 3.0L that I am playing with and I took the oil pan off last night, Guess what else I took off, with my hand: the oil pump nut. It was barely on the pump shaft. I have determined that loctite 272 and taking a center punch on the nut and threads after assembly is the road I am taking to resolve the issue. I have looked into safety wiring the nut, but I can't see drilling a 1/16" hole in that nut while under the car. If anyone has enlightening instructions on how to wire tie and not break a bunch of drill bits, I would like to know about it. I have seen the equipment used for safety wiring in Pegasus Racing's brochure, it seems easy enough, a little expensive, but cheaper that a new engine. Ant other info/ opinions would be great as well before she goes under the knife. I would also like to know how far I need to drop the subframe to pull the pan out. Anyone done this before? I read the Bentley and it says drop it as far as possibly, that leaves a lot to the imagination. Anything else to replace while i'm under there? I just replaced the control arms, would have been nice to do this at the same time, oh well. The power steering line is getting replaced and of course the oil pan gasket. Can I use flange seal (hylomar) on the gasket, or is there something better? Thanks for the help and heads up. Here's to driving home from the track, Kris

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#8. Re: 96+ Spark Plugs - from James McMillan
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:17:47 -0600 From: "James McMillan" <m3incorp@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: 96+ Spark Plugs I tried the 4417 plugs and ended up taking them out after only two weeks. They caused my motor to not run as smooth. Went back to the FGR and car ran fine. BTW I always order my FGR plugs from Alexander BMW for $7.95 each. James > Subject: 96+ Spark Plugs > > The plug BMW has listed for the '96+ M3's is the Bosch FGR 8 KQC. On > Bosch's web site, they list the 4303 (Plat +2) and the 4417 (Plat +4). Are > these all equivalent and I can use any of them, or should I go track down > the FGR 8 KQC plug? > > Thanks, > -- > Rex Tener > rex_tener@yahoo.com >

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#9. Part #'s for Euro light plugs? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:01:40 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Part #'s for Euro light plugs? Okay, this is one of those dumb little questions, but does anyone have the part number for the little metal pins that insert into the connector for the euro lights? One of mine is loose and is causing the light to cut out every now and then. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, -peterg

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Part #'s for Euro light plugs? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:16:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Part #'s for Euro light plugs? There are a few of them. Depending on where you bought the original kit, they might have just supplied the same pins. 61 13 1 376 202 2.5mm contact 0.5-1.0mm^2 wire 61 13 1 376 204 2.5mm contact 1.0-2.5mm^2 wire 61 13 1 376 206 2.5mm contact 2.5-4.0mm^2 wire For the regular power wires, you could use the smaller pins. For the part where you combine both grounds, the larger gauge pin would make sense and makes for an overall better crimp. Also, if you use a quality crimper, soldering if not required. To pull out the existing pin, you'll need a BMW special tool p/n 88 88 6 611 132. Good luck, Chester --- Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> wrote: > Okay, this is one of those dumb little questions, but does anyone have the > part number for the little metal pins that insert into the connector for the > euro lights? One of mine is loose and is causing the light to cut out every > now and then. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com

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