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#1. Re: [E36M3] Another quick camber question - from Jeff A
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:12:49 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another quick camber question Some datapoints: Stock -.9/-1.1 H&R c/o's, lowered 1" -1.3/-1.5, then I shimmed the front out to -1.9 H&R c/o's, shims removed, swapped hats, -3.1, -3.2 GC c/o's, custom built to remove some camber -2.5, now shimmed to -2.8 I had GC remove camber since I have an assortment of shims to add some back in depending on pyrometer readings. My caster is over 7.0. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 11:53 AM Subject: [E36M3] Another quick camber question > Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 09:43:45 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Another quick camber question > > I'm thinking of possibly taking out my TC Kline camber/caster plates and > just trying out the swapped strut hats (my mechanic isn't all that happy > about the plates). Besides, if I even start racing in H-Stock, the > adjustable plates wouldn't be allowed anyway. > > Does anyone run the swapped hats WITH H&R sports and Konis? If so, please > let me know your front end alignement settings. I'd like to get as close to > -3° camber and keep the caster at 7 if possible. (I assume toe can still be > manipulated with no problems) > > If no one runs the swapped hats with H&R Sports, would anyone care to > venture a guess as to how much neg. camber you'd get (assuming -2 with stock > springs and whatever change may occur with the drop in ride height?) > > Anyone with info, please let me know. > > Thanks > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#2.1998 E36 BMW 328is - from Will Land
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 16:18:32 -0400 From: Will Land <wland@erols.com> Subject: <FS> 1998 E36 BMW 328is Posting for a friend. Please contact HIM directly not me. Car is located in Columbia, Maryland. >>>>>>>>>>> 1998 BMW 328is 65,000 Miles Price: $20,000 Standard Equipment: 5-Speed Transmission, 6 cyl 2.8 L Engine, Air Conditioning, Alarm System, Aluminum/Alloy Wheels, AM/FM Stereo Tape, Anti-Lock Brakes, Climate Control for AC, Cruise Control, Dual Air Bag Restraints, Fog Lights, Heated Power Mirrors, Intermittent Wipers, Leather Steering Wheel, Power Brakes, Power Door Locks, Power Drivers Seat, Power Passenger Seat, Power Steering, Power Windows, Rear Window Defroster, Side Air Bag Restraints, Tachometer, Tilt Steering Wheel, Tinted Glass, Traction Control System, Vinyl Seats Optional Equipment: Compact Disc Changer, Harman Kardon Sound System, Heated Front Seats, Keyless Entry System, Leather Seats, Metallic Paint, Onboard Computer, Power Sunroof, BMW M Series Contour Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport GT Tires Cosmetic defects: There are two scratches on the hood and a door ding on the drivers side. The local BMW dealer quoted me $600.00 for the repairs, so I have removed this cost from the total of the car. I've included picture to depict the inclusions. The with paint over the fender can be buffed out, I just haven't had the time to do it. VIN #: WBABG1332WET07761 Please e-mail or call Mike at 410-627-4381(cell), 410-869-8687(home), mfistler@networkingconcepts.com or visit www.mudhunters.com/bmw for more info and pictures. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Another quick camber question - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 13:36:12 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another quick camber question >From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> > >H&R c/o's, shims removed, swapped hats, -3.1, -3.2 > Thanks for the info. Was this with the same ride height you had before the swapped hats (i.e. 1")? If so, this does sound perfect for what I'm looking for. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#4. Spring Rates - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:04:05 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Spring Rates Hello, List- Addressing a question I had earlier about the crispness of turning response, I have a question about spring rates, progressive versus linear, and what my H&R OE Sports are. I seem to remember a lister who also has the Streetline kit mentioning that the OE Sports are progressive springs, and that this contributes to their comfort level on less than ideal roads. Is this the case with these springs? What I noticed pre-install is that I could make the front of the car dart quite easily at most speeds (for example, driving between 40-60mph and making quick deflections as if dodging debris or paint stripes ;?) ), the nose of the car would deflect instantly. Now, there is a slight hesitation before the nose alters its line of travel and as a result, quick steering inputs feel sluggish to respond. Since this applies mostly to small, quick corrections, could the noticeable pitch be due to the softer initial rates? If this is so, is there another linear-rate spring that's a bit more sporty while keeping the stock height? Alternately, one that lowers the car just a tad? Our roads are FAR from optimal (some of the worst in the country, I believe) and any under body scraping makes me gnash my teeth, but I could live with a 1-1.5" drop. As a follow-up to the Powerflex RTB's I installed last Thursday night, I spent the weekend trying to audibly ferret out a very pronounced scrunching noise from the rear. I put the rear on stands, pulled the wheels and unbolted the bottom of the shocks to wiggle the suspected bushings. After dropping the trailing arms and finding out exactly what pivoted within what in the bushing/carrier assembly, I deduced that a modicum of the supplied copper grease was needed in the center of the urethane where it met the pin holding the carrier bolt. I'm curious as to how long the grease will do it's job in there, but it's quiet as a mouse now. M's happy; I'm happy. Thanks for listening and your opinions/advice Steve
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#5. dead battery - from russell
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:16:00 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: dead battery i have a 99 with 60k miles on it. today i parked the car and ran in to a place for about 2 minutes (after about an hour and a half of driving), and when i came out, no juice. as i was leaving the car, i did something weird while locking the car...i sort of locked it twice real fast, thinking that the 1st time i didnt turn it far enough (but, actually, i had). i've never had any sort of starting problems or anything that seemed like the battery might be going. i called a jump service, and they guy tried his 12v battery pack on the front terminal. nothing. then we tried it on the battery. nothing. then he used jumper cables attached to his explorer. still nothing, though now the windows were working and the guages seemed to be more "alive." we waited about 15 minutes and tried again. we only got some clicking. so then we hooked the battery pack up to the front terminal, and the other vehicle to the battery. that worked! so now i'm looking for a new battery. a local dealer has one for $115, NOT installed (not that installation is difficult, but for that price you'd think i'd get it installed, plus a complimentary dinner). any other ideas, brands, etc? thanks, russell dakar 99 ===== "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:19:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates > Since this applies mostly to small, quick corrections, could the > noticeable pitch be due to the softer initial rates? If this is so, is > there another linear-rate spring that's a bit more sporty while keeping > the stock height? Alternately, one that lowers the car just a tad? Our > roads are FAR from optimal (some of the worst in the country, I believe) > and any under body scraping makes me gnash my teeth, but I could live > with a 1-1.5" drop. The only other linear rate springs other than stock are made by either Dinan or Eibach. > center of the urethane where it met the pin holding the carrier bolt. > I'm curious as to how long the grease will do it's job in there, but > it's quiet as a mouse now. M's happy; I'm happy. Dunno how long the grease will last. I suspect not too long... =( Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] dead battery - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:42:48 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] dead battery russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> wrote: > > i have a 99 with 60k miles on it. today i parked the car and ran > in to a place for about 2 minutes (after about an hour and a half > of driving), and when i came out, no juice. Russell, When was the last time you had checked the water level in the battery's cells? Unless you say 'recently', you are lucky the battery lasted the three years that it did. FWIW, my wife's '98 battery croaked exactly 26 months from delivery, or exactly 2 months past the battery warranty period. > so now i'm looking for a new battery. a local dealer has one for > $115, NOT installed (not that installation is difficult, but for > that price you'd think i'd get it installed, plus a complimentary > dinner). Just wait until they quote you 1 hour of labor to install that sucker! I was glad I was sitting when the SA quoted me the book labor rate. Alas it is negotiable. They were going to drop it down to 1/4 hour and double the 10% CCA discount off the DFW JR's $225 Douglas battery list price. Fat chance. The ugly part was when the SA and his two friends came out to watch me install the Optima myself. Snickered around jokingly taking bets on when the car will be towed back to them with the dead 'orange motorcycle' battery. <rant mode on> For BMW NA reps monitoring this list - the next time I buy a BMW I want to have an option to do so without paying for the f*&ing free extended service coverage. </rant mode on> Batteries Plus sometimes carry OE Douglas batteries for around $85, but I would not bother with those. > any other ideas, brands, etc? I like gell-cell Optimas. Light, maintenance free, rated for 800 CCAs. $110 (call around and say you will install in yourself) the last time I bought one in '00. alex f
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#8. Re: Howling OBDII E36 M3 - any ideas? - from matthew c. mead
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:10:47 -0400 From: "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> Subject: Re: Howling OBDII E36 M3 - any ideas? Just a followup to this in case anyone is interested. It turned out to be the PCV valve. -matt On Mon, Aug 26, 2002 at 09:24:54AM -0400, matthew c. mead wrote: > A friend of a friend (FOAF) is working on an OBDII M3 that > presents a loud howling noise at idle which reduces under > throttle application. > > Here's what he had to say: > > Yes, this one has OBD-II. It listed a p1174 code, which > is 'Fuel trim, bank 1 different injection times'. The odd thing > is, the car has the weirdest howl after running 10 or so minutes > and coming down at idle, howl is reduced under throttle. > > > Anyone have any ideas? > > Thanks. > > > > -matt > > -- > matthew c. mead > 97 Dakar M3/4 - sharked, xbraced > 97 White GS-R/4 - stock (wife's) > 92 Black Miata - dropped, dampened, headed towards SM > > http://www.goof.com/~mmead/ -- matthew c. mead 97 Dakar M3/4 - sharked, xbraced 97 White GS-R/4 - stock (wife's) 92 Black Miata - dropped, dampened, headed towards SM http://www.goof.com/~mmead/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 17:11:01 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates Hi, Chester- Is my reasoning sound on the progressive nature allowing that bit of body roll? Are the stockers linear or progressive? And thank you for the reply! Cheers, Steve
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates - from Jeff A
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 17:40:49 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates Steve, I believe the stockers are linear, but are effectively progressive. The coil is wound so as to be linear in the range of travel from static ride height to full block (working spring rate), but the stock setup uses a big bumpstop which adds to the spring rate after a bit of travel. Net effect is progressive. Just another point of reference. . . people have a tendency to say that a spring is progessive when differential winding actually forms dead coils; in this case the spring may actually have a linear working spring rate, but have dead coils to maintain tension at full droop (TUV requirement). The rear H&R 'Race' springs are an example of this. In other words, a linear rate spring with dead coils should not be referred to as progressive. Just wanted you to be aware as you sort through a spring rate analysis. Jeff > Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 17:11:01 -0500 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring Rates > > Hi, Chester- > Is my reasoning sound on the progressive nature allowing that bit > of body roll? Are the stockers linear or progressive? And thank you for > the reply! > > Cheers, > Steve