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#1. RE: [E36M3] fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 20:30:12 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help I had this happen to me with a hood bra. I left it on in the rain and got a milky ness under the paint. it went away after a few weeks in the sun. maybe has something to do with the water based paint on our cars. Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help - from donna seeley
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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 21:50:18 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help Get a dedicated car and vinyl numbers? Donna, just trying to help... :) 88 M3 with lots of vinyl stickers ex-95 M3 with no vinyl (except Suzy's and GGC stickers) On 09.08.02 6:53 PM, "Mdriver13@aol.com" <Mdriver13@aol.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 21:48:51 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help > > > Gruppe, > > A couple of autox's ago it rained early and then the sun came out and it was > extremely hot for the rest of the event. Afterward, I took my magnetic > numbers off the doors and there to my surprise was a "shadow" of the numbers > in the finish :-( I tried to use 3M swirl remover...and it's still there. > Over a month later and it's still there! > > Has anyone else experienced this? If so, is there a way to get rid of the > "fog"???? > > TIA, > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe... with foggy doors > Philly Region SCCA > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > BSP Champion 2001 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 01:55:39 EDT From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help This happened to me on my previous auto-x car ('90 Mustang LX 5.0L), but it=20 only did it on the passenger door, which had been repainted due to a minor=20 accident. The only thing that would remove the fog/shadow for me was Blue=20 Magic metal polish cream. That stuff is awesome (maybe REAL magic? :-P)! =20 I've also used it on my Daytona Violet M3 to remove light surface scratches=20 in the clear coat with good results. Good Luck! Chuck Brazeau '95 ///M3 - Violet/Black http://www.brazeauracing.com/ -----Original Message----- Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 21:48:51 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: fog appearance under magnetic numbers-help Gruppe, A couple of autox's ago it rained early and then the sun came out and it was= =20 extremely hot for the rest of the event.=A0 Afterward, I took my magnetic=20 numbers off the doors and there to my surprise was a "shadow" of the numbers= =20 in the finish :-(=A0=A0 I tried to use 3M swirl remover...and it's still the= re.=20 Over a month later and it's still there! Has anyone else experienced this?=A0 If so, is there a way to get rid of the= =20 "fog"???? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe... with foggy doors Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#4. FS: good stuff - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 07:37:36 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: good stuff Alright, here's my final offer: Conforti chip for 95 M3 w/ EWS and euro HFM: $175 AA front strut bar in excellent condition: $180 4 MXX3 w/ 4-5/32 tread left: $150 All prices include shipping except tires, these are for pickup or meet halfway in north Jersey/NY area. Bill Molina _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Disappointing Dyno Run - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 08:03:43 -0500 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Disappointing Dyno Run Gruppe: I did the dyno runs on a dynojet (Mustang Muscle and Dyno Center for those in the St. Louis area)... A little more background too: 95 M3, 65K miles, stock everything, 15w-50 Mobil 1 (thicker oil can rob 1-2 hp?), did two runs with car idling about 3-4 minutes between runs. 96-98 degrees and ~75-80% humidity. They did have a LARGE fan blowing in to radiator before and during runs. Know now to stop car after each run and do 3 to 4 runs and look at the last one. Really didn't even to intend to dyno the car Saturday (it was dirty and I am sure that is where the extra horses went...too embarassed to show up 8^) ) had never done this before and now I'm sliding down the slippery slope of more hp! After talking with an associate in Atlanta that has dyno'd alot of M3's he was of the opinion that it was a reasonable hp to start with, but he thought that there was about ~10 more hp to be found. The thing that he was most concerned with was the AFR numbers. He wanted to see them down around 13.2...didn't like to see mine nearly so lean (14.5 low rpm to 13.6 high rpm). Will probably do some investigating to see if the fuel pressure is where it should be and if the regulator is functioning right. Any way to test injectors without all the special tools? Any tuning gurus here with views on this? Maybe time to think about a new O2 sensor? From the curves, the VANOS looks to be okay, even if it does sound like it is about to fly apart. Also heard to use NGK plugs with the Bremi coils and Bosch with the Bosch coils. Any comments here? I had heard that the NGK's were the better all around, or is this like the debates on brake pads and synthetic oil brands? With more fuel for the fire, Andrew Joseph > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 01:38:56 -0700 > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Disappointing Dyno Run > > I wouldn't call that bad. Maybe a hair low, but certainly within > reason. I dyno'd my bone stock 95 and was going to be happy if I broke > 200. As it turned out, I dyno'd back to back with another bone stock > 95. My car had 52k miles, his had 58k. Even same stock wheels. Only > difference was his was lowered and mine was not :) > > As it turned out, we got almost identical results. Even the curves and > every little bump were the same. Our two middle runs were closer to > each other than any of my runs were to each other, or him his. > > IIRC, I pulled a 207.2 and he pulled a 207.1.. something like that. I > was very pleased with this. I don't think you should expect a stock 95 > to do ANY better than this. > > Atmospheric differences could easily explain 5-10hp less. I ran on a > Dynojet. Were you on a Mustang perhaps? I think I've heard Mustangs > tend to read lower than a Dynojet.
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#6. Re: ABS light on and Noise from Wheel... What the #@*%!!! - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 09:53:38 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: ABS light on and Noise from Wheel... What the #@*%!!! on 9/5/02 10:13 PM, Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> wrote: > The problem is two fold: ABS light is coming on intermittently. You shut the > car down, start it back up and it's off for a little while. It eventually > comes back on if you drive it hard enough. Checked the ABS sensors and > there's nothing obviously wrong. What are the things that could potentially > kick off the ABS light? Dunno. > At the same time, in what may be related, there's a very slight grinding > noise coming from the DS front wheel (where there isn't a sensor). It's > cyclical and increases with wheel speed. With the wheel jacked up, there > seems to be more play in the hub than on the other wheel, but there isn't a > noticeable difference when the wheel is on the ground. Could it be a > bearing? Probable it's the wheel bearing. You need to pull the brake pads to make sure they're not rubbing, then spin the elevated wheel. If the noise is still there, then it's a wheel bearing. Easy to do yourself - I have instructions if you need them. Do both sides while you're at it. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Need full headers of spam - from David Ripton
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 10:58:25 -0400 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Need full headers of spam E36M3 wrote: > Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 14:55:21 -0400 (EDT) > From: dripton <dripton@ripton.net> > Subject: Instant Access To 25,000 I'm on digest, so all I've got is the above plus a few lines of html iframe junk, not enough to track down who or what did that. Someone who's not on digest, please forward me (not the list) a full copy of the above spam with *all* headers (not just the ones your email client normally shows) included, preferably as a compressed (zip, tarball, whatever) attachment so that it won't get munged in transit. Thanks. Sorry for the interruption. (Triple-sorry if this spam actually came from one of my boxes.) -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net
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#8. [E36M3] Disappointing Dyno Run - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 11:28:15 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] Disappointing Dyno Run Andrew said > > Thanks to those who replied to my disappointing dyno run post...I am > starting to suspect the info I obtained about stock figures was off...never > believe everything you read! Definitely, 190 - 200 hp for a stock M3 would be more than appropriate for a stock configuration. I doubted where you got your information as soon as I read it. Rich - no dyno pulls yet. 95 M3 90 325is 89 325is - for now
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#9. Cheap brake pads - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:03:54 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Cheap brake pads We did some street testing of brake pads this weekend and I have a couple of sets to get rid of: Hawk HP Plus front pads, used 3 months, 90% left, $20 includes shipping. Mintex Red front pads, used 15 minutes, $15 includes shipping. Results: I had the HP Plus on my car for the last few months. They squeal a bit on my car (amazingly enough, they don't squeal on every car), and I wanted to change. -The first change was to Mintex Red - street compound, low dusting stock equivalent, Teflon back liner to eliminate squeal. After quickly bedding and curing the pads, I headed down the "test road" near the shop. It has been a long time since I have been on normal pads, I was accustomed to the HP Plus previously on my car, and these didn't have anywhere near the stopping power I wanted. Even my passenger looked over and said "soft pedal" after one stop from about 100. No squeal, no dust, but they blued my rotors in 15 minutes. I was being extremely hard on the brakes to test the absolute limit of the pads. I think these are good for normal street driving or even aggressive street driving and the first school or two before you know how to maximize braking. -We pulled off the Mintex, then installed Hawk HPS, the more tame version of the HP Plus street pad, Teflon back liner to eliminate squeal. I again bedded and cured the pads. These stopped much better than the Mintex, but don't have the grip of the HP Plus. I was still able to lock the wheels very slightly with these. I cleaned the wheels and took the car for a drive (about 2 hours) - no visible dust, no squeal, no fade. These will be the new pads for my street car. -HP Plus - for comparison, the HP Plus are high torque for a street pad. The squeal sometimes and do put off some black dust, but are easy on the rotors and paint. With street tires, I was able to lock the brakes, even at high speeds where there was more weight transfer. Great pad for auto-X, light track use, street, etc, as long as you don't mind the noise. James James ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance World Challenge / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Please inquire about our new line of performance street, track, and full race clutch/flywheel systems.
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#10. Replace RTB this weekend - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:44:48 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Replace RTB this weekend I replaced my rear trailing arm bushings on Sunday. The car had begun to feel out of balance in certain situations, and I figured that since the cars has a lot of track time, that it was due (at 65k miles). Interestingly, the drivers side bushing was bad. The metal sleeve had completely separated from the rubber and was floating in place. The passenger side was just starting to show signs of wear and could have gone longer without replacement, but I was already in there and did it any way. For those counting, I used the sawzall method, and it took about an hour per side taking my time. The passenger side came out with nary a whimper, while the driver's side was a big PITA. Shane Shane A. Kleinpeter Accenture Products - Travel & Transportation Services Charlotte, NC Voice Mail (704) 370-5216 Mobile (704) 906-7965 e-mail: Shane.A.Kleinpeter@Accenture.com This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.