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#1. Re: I've done it (brake job) - from david tow
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:10:28 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: I've done it (brake job) Paul, Thanks! Yeah, I replaced all the rotors (well, I should say "we" - my brother and I). When I was trying to remove the first rotor alone, I could not take it out at first. I thought there must be one more part that I needed to remove before I could take the rotor out. I initially tap-opened the cap in the center, and found out it did not help anything. Then I realized that I really had to bang on the rotor a bit to knock it loose! It would take some courage for a novice like me to knock on a rotor this hard. The removal steps of the front and rear rotors were quite the same, except, of course, you might want to adjust the parking brakes in the rear while the rotors were out. I don't think one could adjust the parking brakes if the rotors are in place, since the hole on the other side is so small to reach and turn the "adjusting teeth". I am pretty sure it is a 6 mm allen screw that holds the rotor, since I bought the allen tool from Sears just a day before the installation. Well, I am sure it would be easier next time. But I have to ask my body if it agrees with me to do it again. Time to get out of the damn office and do some exercise! David Tow >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >To: <david_tow@hotmail.com> >Subject: I've done it (brake job >Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:31:13 -0400 > >Congrats on your first brake job. I think the reason it was more difficult >than you expected is that it wasnt just a pad change, but a rotor change as >well. Ive done several pad changes, but never a rotor change yet. My pad >changes take about a max of a half hour per wheel, including jacking >time.... It will get faster as you gain experience. Also, if youre not >used >to crouching, you Will ache a few days afterwards. > >Since youre now a bigger rotor veteran than I am, can you give me any >rotor >tips before I do mine? Did you do rears as well as fronts? Any difference >to take into account? Did you have any problem with your emergency brake ? >Also, the hex bolt holding on the rotors.... are you sure theyre not 5mm >hex >bolts? > >Once youve done it, it'll be simple the next time, I promise you! > >Paul Elliott _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#2. Re: Kumho MX? - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:34:38 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> Subject: Re: Kumho MX? Bob, What do you think of the MXs? I couldn't get them in the size I wanted when I last replaced tires. How do they compare to SO3 or Pilots? Dry, wet, noise and ride performance? Peter Fanning '98 M3/4 At 08:13 PM 9/9/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:14:55 -0700 >From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta 712 street in 245/40/17 on rear of E36M3 > >Marc, > >Actually, the 712s are a bit narrower than most 245 width tires - they >should have no problem fitting on your 95. I had them for about 30k >miles on all 4 corners of my 97 M3/2 with 17x8 38et offset wheels. > >- Bob > 97 M3 now with Kumho MXs
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta 712 street in 245/40/17 on rear of E36M3 - from matthew c. mead
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:40:05 -0400 From: "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta 712 street in 245/40/17 on rear of E36M3 On Mon, Sep 09, 2002 at 05:23:11PM -0500, Msebmwman@aol.com wrote: > Has anyone here run 245/40/17 Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 street tires on the rear of their E36M3 without rubbing on the rear. I was thinking of getting these on the car for stock daily driver that doesn't see track duty. Price is right and tire rack has them. I have them on my 97 M3/4. I haven't hit any crazy dips or railroad jumps the likes of which you don't find here in Wisconsin, but existed in my daily commute in SW Virginia, but I have logged about 1.5k miles without any rubbing whatsoever. They are on the stock rear 17x8.5" wheels. -matt -- matthew c. mead 97 Dakar M3/4 - sharked, xbraced 97 White GS-R/4 - stock (wife's) 92 Black Miata - dropped, dampened, headed towards SM http://www.goof.com/~mmead/
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#4. How to reach your oil pump nut.... - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:29:01 -0500 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: How to reach your oil pump nut.... To start, continue at your own risk. I was very close to going to the = mechanic and dropping the car off, but I could not live without knowing = it was fixed properly, so... three showers later and the smell of ATF = (power steering fluid) still seeping through my skin, I am now = recovering. But I now know that nut is not coming off easily. Here is = what I did: loctited the nut with 272 and sealed the gasket with hylomar = and replaced the trombone power steering hose. Here is my story: Parts bought (don't quote me, this is from memory): Hylomar oil pan gasket loctite 272 Power steering line, only if replacing (2) gaskets for through bolt on power steering, only if replacing oil pan dipstick guide o-ring motor mounts- not installed- old ones OK oil filter oil ATF (power steering fluid)- needed Brake cleaner Make sure to have: Torx socket flex joints for sockets very long extension for motormount nut- 3 feet? Various extensions for other energy rags energy did I mention rags and energy clothes on that you never want to wear again Jack for the subframe a helper, if for nothing else to keep your sanity Here we go on rough steps for the process and my opinions. Feel free to = ask questions. 1 drain the oil, while warm if possible to save drippage later. 2 up top: remove intake to the throttle body, remove belt from power = steering pump (maybe not necessary), loosen the motor mounts top nut, = remove the dipstick guide tube. 3 raise the engine about 1/2", an engine cradle would be the best. 4 remove the power steering fluid. Remove the rubber line on the = trombone power steering line. Listen to me. Cover the hole on the = reservoir. It will leak everywhere. Then get the line on the rubber hose = stopped up because it will leak everywhere also. 5 undo the clamp on the steering spindle. be sure to mark the location = of the clamp. I used a paint pen. The steering wheel will turn so = position does not matter.=20 6 drop the subframe with a jack. I left the control arms connected, you = will have plenty of room.=20 7 You can now start pulling off the oil pan. There are lots of bolts. I = recommend an air ratchet, but don't we all. Make sure to take a break if = you don't have air tools or your arms will go numb. You will need the = flex joints to get them all with ease.You also have to remove the = bracket that goes from the pan to the power steering pump. To reinstall = them I turned down the pressure to about 25 and barely tightened them to = save my arms. There are also three bolts that go through the = transmission into the oil pan, they are torx style.=20 8 pull off the pan and there is the lucky nut. (mine was still tight) = Clean it with your preference and apply loctite. I put it back on pretty = tight. I don't see how too tight could be an issue, I guess we'll find = out. That is it. As you know, Install is reverse of removal.=20 Other notes: -I would have help to push the subframe back up. It likes to move = around, and not in the direction of its home.=20 -I had big problems with the power steering pump. It was always in the = way. I don't know if it is because I let it dangle. You have to remove = the bracket to get to one of the bolts (as stated above). -If you do remove more power steering lines, try to contain the spillage = with either cut glove fingers or some other ingenious idea, it will = help. Oh, and remember to reattach the hose to the reservoir before you = begin refilling, it works better that way, trust me.=20 -Have a Bentley to get the torque's right. That is all I can think of. I think I wrote enough for a while. Let me = know if anything does not make any sense or if you need some more highly = technical advice. Oh,and this reads much simpler than the actual event. = Just remember to to think about what your doing before you do it. Good = luck. Later, Kris
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#5. Heated mirrors - from cemick
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:00:56 -0400 From: "cemick" <cemick@snet.net> Subject: Heated mirrors I recently had to replace the drivers mirror glass on my 96 M3. The new = mirror is heating up when the ignition is turned to on. It is 75 deg F = and there is no need for heat at this time. The passenger side is stone = cold. When I hooked the new mirror to the passenger side it too heated = up so the wiring to that side is fine. When are the mirrors supposed to heat up? Do I have any control on = turning them on/off?=20 At this time, I removed the power leads to the heaters to avaid water = staining every time they get wet. Chris McCormick
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Heated mirrors - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:33:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heated mirrors The mirrors are heated all the time...regardless of rain or outside temp. Chester --- cemick <cemick@snet.net> wrote: > turning them on/off?=20 > At this time, I removed the power leads to the heaters to avaid water = > staining every time they get wet. ===== __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Big Fat Rubber - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:46:01 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Fat Rubber Jeff, On my 97 4 Door, I run Kumho Victoracer 255/40-17's for autocross with 17x9 ET45 SSR's. They clear fine in front with a 15mm or 10mm spacer. In back, they will be close to the outer fender, and close to the inner fender. I have had rubbing in both places depending on camber/toe-in. With 2 degrees of camber in back, you should be OK with the outer fender. If you don't run a massive amount of toe-in, you should be OK with the inner liner in back also. But it is real close in back with either the SSR wheels, or the stock 8.5" 10 spokes. Good luck with the BFR. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:53:50 -0500 > From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: Big Fat Rubber > > I'd like to run 255/40-17 Toyo RA1's on my sedan, on OE 85" 10 spokes (stock > 41 mm offset). Strut clearance is not an issue, as I have a chi chi GC > setup and 15 mm spacers for tons of clearance. I plan on having all fenders > rolled and breaking out the dead blow for any necessary undercoating > rearrangement out back. Also, I'm at -2.8 degrees up front, -2.0 in back. > > A good friend runs them on his track car (a coupe) with no issues, but he's > rolled and has no fender liners. I'm particularly concerned about: clearing > the front fender liners as well as front fender lips, and any sedan-specific > clearance issues. > > Grassyass. > > Jeff
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Big Fat Rubber - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:49:21 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Fat Rubber Thanks Chris. I run just 0.10 degrees of toe-in out back, which I found I can run w/o much drama with solid rear t/a bushings. I look forward to giving it a shot. Jeff > Jeff, > > On my 97 4 Door, I run Kumho Victoracer 255/40-17's for autocross > with 17x9 ET45 SSR's. They clear fine in front with a 15mm > or 10mm spacer. In back, they will be close to the outer fender, > and close to the inner fender. I have had rubbing in both places > depending on camber/toe-in. With 2 degrees of camber in back, > you should be OK with the outer fender. If you don't run a > massive amount of toe-in, you should be OK with the inner liner > in back also. But it is real close in back with either the SSR > wheels, or the stock 8.5" 10 spokes. > > Good luck with the BFR. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > > > > I'd like to run 255/40-17 Toyo RA1's on my sedan, on OE 85" 10 spokes > (stock > > 41 mm offset). Strut clearance is not an issue, as I have a chi chi GC > > setup and 15 mm spacers for tons of clearance. I plan on having all > fenders > > rolled and breaking out the dead blow for any necessary undercoating > > rearrangement out back. Also, I'm at -2.8 degrees up front, -2.0 in back. > > > > A good friend runs them on his track car (a coupe) with no issues, but > he's > > rolled and has no fender liners. I'm particularly concerned about: > clearing > > the front fender liners as well as front fender lips, and any > sedan-specific > > clearance issues. > > > > Grassyass. > > > > Jeff >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] How to reach your oil pump nut.... - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:05:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to reach your oil pump nut.... whoa. kris, the force is obviously with you. i don't think i'd ever attempt something so involved on my car. hope you enjoyed a very cold beer after the test drive ;-) zs --- Kris Welhart <kris.welhart@cyou.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:29:01 -0500 > From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> > Subject: How to reach your oil pump nut....
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Heated mirrors - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 02:42:28 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heated mirrors chester_p_wong@yahoo.com writes: > The mirrors are heated all the time...regardless of rain or outside temp. I agree. However, my mirrors have long since stopped heating up. What is the cause/fix? It is not a big concern since I live in Dallas, just curious if it is a cheap fix. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas