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#1. Re: [E36M3] How to reach your oil pump nut.... - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:56:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to reach your oil pump nut.... Funny, right after my wife got her 2002 I thought I would flex my mechanic muscle and fix the oil leak around the oil pan and do the oil pump while I was in there. After three weeks of weekends, mornings, and evenings spent under the car, squirming around in 30 years of oil and grease, the missus vocally unhappy about not being able to drive her daily driver, I put the thing on a truck and shipped it off to the mechanic, having added up my time under the car and compared it to my pride / ego, and decided I could live with it. As the service guy is writing up the ticket, I see one of those magic 8 balls on the counter, so I shake it and ask it "Is this going to cost way more than I think?" The thing displays "Without a doubt". Actually, a small price to pay for an intact marriage. So Kris, I salute you for undertaking this project and for the write-up. If I ever think of doing this I think I'll print your steps and give them to the mechanic. Thanks! Jason --- Kris Welhart <kris.welhart@cyou.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:29:01 -0500 > From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> > Subject: How to reach your oil pump nut.... > > > To start, continue at your own risk. I was very > close to going to the = > mechanic and dropping the car off, but I could not > live without knowing = > it was fixed properly __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Aluminum Pedals - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:55:23 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aluminum Pedals Yes, they do. Here's the part number: 35 00 0 006 949 Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: <Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 11:33 AM Subject: [E36M3] Aluminum Pedals > Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:27:36 -0500 > From: Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03 > <Christopher.Darling@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> > Subject: Aluminum Pedals > > Gruppe, > > BMW sells an aluminum pedal kit for E46 cars. Has anyone confirmed whether > this kit will fit on an E36 M3 (1995 model)????? > > Thanks, > > Cod > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#3. Re: Big Fat Rubber - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:04:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Big Fat Rubber Jeff, let me tell you a little bit about my setup which might help in your situation. I have a '98 M3 sedan and I am running 18x8.5 38et all around. My tires are Michelin Mxx3 235/35/18. After installing KW coilovers I needed 10mm spacers for the front wheels to clear the struts. But now my front tires stick out about 1/3" off the fender and if I take a fast turn on a bumpy corner my front tire will rub the fender, which only happened to me once since I've had this setup 6 month ago. I think it's because my coilovers are stiff enough that my suspension does not compress enough to rub more often during normal street driving. But for the track, I will have to use my stock 17"s. So, based on my setup. I think you will rub with the 15mm spacer. I think some 5 or 10mm spacer would be more appropiate for your setup. Joe. ------------------- I'd like to run 255/40-17 Toyo RA1's on my sedan, on OE 85" 10 spokes (stock 41 mm offset). Strut clearance is not an issue, as I have a chi chi GC setup and 15 mm spacers for tons of clearance. I plan on having all fenders rolled and breaking out the dead blow for any necessary undercoating rearrangement out back. Also, I'm at -2.8 degrees up front, -2.0 in back. A good friend runs them on his track car (a coupe) with no issues, but he's rolled and has no fender liners. I'm particularly concerned about: clearing the front fender liners as well as front fender lips, and any sedan-specific clearance issues. Grassyass. Jeff __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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#4. Re: I've done it (brake job) - from david tow
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:12:50 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: I've done it (brake job) Thank you for the correction and tip, Ron! When I did the parking brake adjustment, I put the rotor back on and rotated to get the feel. I adjusted it until it felt right before I tightened the retaining screw into the rotor. It's hard to imagine that you could do adjustment through that little lug bolt hole! But I believe the manual. David Tow >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: david_tow@hotmail.com >CC: e36m3@bmw-m.net >Subject: Re: I've done it (brake job) >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:10:25 -0400 > >The parking brake is supposed to be adjusted with the rotor installed. > >You access the adjusting wheel with a screwdriver, going through a lug bolt >hole. You'll need to rotate the wheel hub to get a lug bolt hole aligned >to the adjusting wheel. > >The adjustment procedure is described in Bentley. > >-rb _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#5. Re: Recharge a battery? - from david tow
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:23:33 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Recharge a battery? Ron, You mean you would leave the battery charged for days without diconnecting anything? I charged my wife's 87 Mercedes 300E this way overnight. The radio, afterward, would cut off intermittently for a period of time before it went back to normal. Don't know why. David Tow >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: david_tow@hotmail.com >CC: e36m3@bmw-m.net >Subject: Re: Recharge a battery? >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:46:50 -0400 > >I've been using a Battery Tender (to maintain the charge on my garage >queen) for several years, and I've also used a Sears 2A/10A charger on >those occasions when the battery was accidentally drained. I always >connect the chargers to the access posts under the hood, and not directly >to the battery. The positive post has a black cover on it, and the >negative post is a silver 'bolt' nearby. On my '95, they are located in >the right side of the engine compartment, close to the firewall. > >I've never had a problem with this approach. The only caution is that, >when charging at 10A, the battery fluid may produce significant amounts of >vapors, so you should be sure to do it in a well-ventilated area. > >Also, connect the charger to the correct posts BEFORE you plug the charger >into the AC outlet. > >Since you won't be disconnecting any battery cables, your radio settings >will remain intact. > >-rb _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#6. Trying to contact Bill Lackey - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:30:33 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Trying to contact Bill Lackey If you have an email or phone # for Bill, please contact me privately. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott Riley
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#7. Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:34:21 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals on 9/10/02 11:03 AM, Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > In my continuing search for the frustrating klunk in the rear end, > I used some prototype diagnostic machinery this past Friday. <snip> > My question(s) is(are) what else could be askew back there that > would have similar symptoms/effects. There's a long M12 bolt under there that holds the diff to the rear subframe, and they've been known to break or loosen. (I recall John Van Houten spending some time under his car at MIS a couple of years ago dealing with that.) You might want to check that as well as all the other attachments. Neil 96 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Big Fat Rubber - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:47:00 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Big Fat Rubber Agreed... with a 15mm spacer in front and 8.5" ET41 wheels, the tires are too wide. If you suspension is not stiff enough, the inner fender will rub the tire. Dave > Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:04:04 -0700 (PDT) > From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Big Fat Rubber > > Jeff, > let me tell you a little bit about my setup which > might help in your situation. > I have a '98 M3 sedan and I am running 18x8.5 38et all > around. My tires are Michelin Mxx3 235/35/18. After > installing KW coilovers I needed 10mm spacers for the > front wheels to clear the struts. But now my front > tires stick out about 1/3" off the fender and if I > take a fast turn on a bumpy corner my front tire will > rub the fender, which only happened to me once since > I've had this setup 6 month ago. I think it's because > my coilovers are stiff enough that my suspension does > not compress enough to rub more often during normal > street driving. But for the track, I will have to use > my stock 17"s. > So, based on my setup. I think you will rub with the > 15mm spacer. I think some 5 or 10mm spacer would be > more appropiate for your setup. > > Joe. > > ------------------- > I'd like to run 255/40-17 Toyo RA1's on my sedan, on > OE 85" 10 spokes > (stock > 41 mm offset). Strut clearance is not an issue, as I > have a chi chi GC > setup and 15 mm spacers for tons of clearance. I plan > on having all > fenders > rolled and breaking out the dead blow for any > necessary undercoating > rearrangement out back. Also, I'm at -2.8 degrees up > front, -2.0 in > back. > > A good friend runs them on his track car (a coupe) > with no issues, but > he's > rolled and has no fender liners. I'm particularly > concerned about: > clearing > the front fender liners as well as front fender lips, > and any > sedan-specific > clearance issues. > > Grassyass. > > Jeff > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Yahoo! - We Remember > 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost > http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#9. Oil Filter Cap question - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:15:42 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Oil Filter Cap question Sorry for the non-M content [looking forward to suzzy's whip] ;-) on the 96+ cars (like a 528i, 330i), the entire oil filter cap threads / screws on. Can someone tell me what size wrench / socket fits this hex head on top of the filter cap. I am talking about the black plastic oil filter cap. The hex head molded into the top is large, like 40mm??, or larger?? I need to get a wrench / socket to fit this to work on a friends car.... please respond privately, bob
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#10. Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:14:11 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals Thanks, Neil- I've glanced at the sub-frame long enough to have flashbacks from drilling/hacking out the RTB's, and have seen the diff. carrier bolt(s). Wouldn't have suspected them tho. Shame on me. Thanks again, Steve > > There's a long M12 bolt under there that holds the diff to the rear > subframe, and they've been known to break or loosen. (I recall John Van > Houten spending some time under his car at MIS a couple of years ago > dealing > with that.) You might want to check that as well as all the other > attachments. > > Neil > 96 M3 >