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#1. Track Tire Opinions please - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:51:16 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Track Tire Opinions please It's time for tires for the race car. We've been running Kumho Victoracer V700s and have been pretty pleased with them. They do seem to get a little greasy when pushed real hard but that could also be the drivers fault. I am trying to decide between replacing them with another set of Kumhos or changing over to the Toyo RA1s. I run the Toyos on my street M3 at the track and I like them alot but I do not push my M3 very hard compared to the race car. We mainly race enduros so the biggest concern is how well they hold up in that type of application. Priorities in order are: 1. Race Durabiltiy (1+ hour enduros) 2. Overall Durability 3. Feedback & Performance 4. oh yeah, price Given these priorities, what would some of you recommend as the better choice? Is there something better I should be considering? Who sells Toyos in the bay area? Thanks for the help! jeff 98 M3/4 - Bald AVS sports (they suck anyway, right Jim)- New AVS intermediates in the garage (too cheap to pass up) 89 944t #933es - badly flat spotted and corded Kumhos (losing your ABS in a race really sucks)
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#2. FS: SSR Integrals 17x9 track wheels (2 sets) - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:44:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: SSR Integrals 17x9 track wheels (2 sets) See them at: <http://geocities.com/turgeon1/index.html> List pricing: $900 and $1000 obo plus shipping from 60504 One set cosmetically better than the other. All structurally sound. Offset 45mm. DE track use only. Contact me privately. Thanks Mike turgeon1@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:58:30 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals > There's a long M12 bolt under there that holds the diff to the rear > subframe, and they've been known to break or loosen. (I recall John Van > Houten spending some time under his car at MIS a couple of years ago dealing > with that.) You might want to check that as well as all the other > attachments. Yup, that was me, and yes, it sucked. There is a single bolt that holds the front of the diff onto the subframe which sheared off on the glass like transition onto the oval at MIS. If that bolt was missing, you'd know it. Every time you accelerate, it front of the diff/end of the driveshaft hits the underside of the rear seat very hard. If you are cruising with slight acceleration, it might just rub. In either case, it was very loud and very noticeable. Be sure to check them, but I'd be surprised if you could drive the car at all. I finally solved my latest clunk in the rear end that y'all might recall from a few weeks ago. As it turns out, the stock rear sway bar was hitting the muffler. I mistakenly (working too fast, misread the directions) cut the rear bumpstops when installing new springs and shocks. New bumpstops solved the problem. One thing that it did teach me is that the rear bumpstop plays a _huge_ roll in your rear spring rate. John
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#4. Trailing Arm bushings - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:54:18 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Trailing Arm bushings Anyone here actually running a non stock trailing arm bushing such as a powerflex,bimmerworld, turner motorsport etc.. and use their car in the winter? I know my bushings are shot at 73,000 miles so I am weighing my options.. I don't want squeeky hard bushings end up creaking/squeeking/breaking something when its -10F outside. Many thanks, Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) (In need of trailing arm bushings soon) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#5. Re: sick E36 M3 - continued - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:05:48 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: sick E36 M3 - continued Guys, Thanks for you suggestions on fixing my car. I've since gotten hold of a code reader that flashed error code #32 deciphered as "coil issues on cylinder #1". Since there were only codes for cylinders 1, 2 and 3, I assume it's the first pair. Doesn't really matter. I took all six of them out and other than occasional drops of oil (nothing major) all six look nice and crack or scorching free. What's more, all six spark plugs are healthy light brown with no signs of excessive oil or fuel contamination or any other combustion chamber issues. I'm all but ready to rule out the coils (original 7 year 69K mile old Behr's) or spark issues. The fuel mixture does not appear to be too rich (plugs show no signs of being bathed in gas), but I do not believe I can completely rule out running a lean mixture (vacuum leaks/HFM?). Back on the trail of electrical (relays or DME) and crank position sensor (-s?) problems. -- alex f hot stumbling/stalling '95 M3 with a jumpy tech
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:07:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals on 9/10/02 12:58 PM, John Van Houten at jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com wrote: > I finally solved my latest clunk in the rear end that y'all might > recall from a few weeks ago. As it turns out, the stock rear sway bar > was hitting the muffler. I mistakenly (working too fast, misread the > directions) cut the rear bumpstops when installing new springs and > shocks. New bumpstops solved the problem. One thing that it did > teach me is that the rear bumpstop plays a _huge_ roll in your rear > spring rate. Hmm, that's interesting. What shocks/springs? I'm trying to remember whether I trimmed my rear bump stops or not when I put the H&R/Konis on, but it was so long ago I forget. Think I'll go and look... Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Track Tire Opinions please - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:13:45 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Track Tire Opinions please At 10:43 AM 9/10/02, Jeff Stowe wrote: >Priorities in order are: >1. Race Durabiltiy (1+ hour enduros) Toyos. >2. Overall Durability Toyos. (I drove nearly 200 miles on a corded front tire a few weeks ago.) >3. Feedback & Performance Slight edge to Kumhos. >4. oh yeah, price Kumhos. (All IMO, of course. I haven't raced on the Toyos, but ran them for several years in drivers schools on the M3. I ran the Victoracers in one race, and I liked them.) >Given these priorities, what would some of you recommend as the better >choice? Is there something better I should be considering? Better in terms of lap time and grip, I would recommend the Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. They are expensive, but hold up well (several people I know ran them at a recent 3 hour enduro at THill with good results), consistent, and give good feedback. I've run mine for only about 300 track miles, but I'm very pleased with them. But they are expensive. >Who sells Toyos in the bay area? AIM Tire at Sears Point, Roger Kraus in Hayward, Conversion Techniques in Oakland, and others I'm sure - use the Toyo web site to search for a dealer. >98 M3/4 - Bald AVS sports (they suck anyway, right Jim) Yep, hated mine. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - well-wearing S03's 1993 325is #44 KP - Toyo RA-1 for street/rain, Pilot Sport Cups for the track
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Track Tire Opinions please - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:15:47 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Track Tire Opinions please Hey Jeff, Long time no see! ;) I don't have much to compare my Toyo RA-1s to, aside from street tires, but I'll give you my input anyway. No race experience yet, but even on longer track sessions (over 30 minutes) at about 8/10ths, I have yet to feel mine lose any grip. Overall Durability: I've done 7-8 events on this set, and will probably get 1-2 more. Feedback & Performance: Pretty much just like a street tire, only higher limits and no squealing. Turn in and grip are really great, but again... I'm comparing these to street tires I've run. They are very progressive, and you can pretty easily feel anything they're trying to communicate to you. Price: I think I got my 235/40-17s for about $185 each. Shop around though. Treadepot.com has good prices, but I was able to get mine locally after a LOT of searching. Local prices varied from $185-$250 per tire, so it pays to shop around. Jonathan L. >From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > >Priorities in order are: >1. Race Durabiltiy (1+ hour enduros) >2. Overall Durability >3. Feedback & Performance >4. oh yeah, price > >Given these priorities, what would some of you recommend as the better >choice? Is there something better I should be considering? >Who sells Toyos in the bay area? > > >Thanks for the help! > >jeff > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:23:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Klunk Found and Weeping Seals > > I finally solved my latest clunk in the rear end that y'all might > > recall from a few weeks ago. As it turns out, the stock rear sway bar > > was hitting the muffler. I mistakenly (working too fast, misread the > > directions) cut the rear bumpstops when installing new springs and > > shocks. New bumpstops solved the problem. One thing that it did > > teach me is that the rear bumpstop plays a _huge_ roll in your rear > > spring rate. > > Hmm, that's interesting. What shocks/springs? I'm trying to remember whether > I trimmed my rear bump stops or not when I put the H&R/Konis on, but it was > so long ago I forget. Think I'll go and look... Hmmm...tough to recall...and a tough call, but I trimmed my rear bumpstops a while ago and didn't notice any bumping or anything (I have stock springs and koni replacements). Keep in mind that the cat/exhaust connection is pretty flexible in terms of the final connection and resting place and you have it setup to where there's very little clearance. For example, on different attempts, I've gotten the exhaust (AA gen III) to band against the rear subframe carrier (the piece that most people jack the car from) and the swaybar (eibachs). Set just right, no rubbing/clunking/banging at all. FWIW, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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#10. Re: USAA Insurance - from m3ltw@msn.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:33:50 -0400 From: m3ltw@msn.com Subject: Re: USAA Insurance > Wrom: KEDOTWFAOBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAU > Subject: USAA Insurance > > Most of you may know this already, but I just confirmed with USAA: driving > schools at racetracks are now specifically excluded from auto insurance > coverage. Yes, even if "untimed" event, blah, blah, blah. > > Cod My renewal from Allstate (special vehicle policy on racecar) included VERY broad exclusions that would prohibit any kind of "speed" or competitive contest, including autocrosses and anything at a racetrack (the way it is written, even attending a NASCAR event where you get hit in the parking lot would be excluded). I assume this is now on every Allstate policy. Heck, under modifications, they specifically excluded rollbars! The insurance industry is getting wise! Darn. Dan