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#1. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:24:12 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found To add to the good advice of others, Due to the design of Konis on my other car, I lacked the special wrench to hold the shaft still while removing the top nut - a similar situation to yours. Using an impact gun, I was able to remove one nut without having to hold the shaft at all. On the other, it didn't. I wasn't sure if Vice-Grips would mar the strut tube, and I didn't take any chances. I used pliers along with one of those rubber oil filter grabbers to hold the shaft; the nut came right off. If you don't have an impact wrench, using something grippy like that oil filter grabber and a set of Vise-Grip locking pliers would probably allow you to use hand tools as well. Just lock the Vise-Grips to whatever you've wrapped around the shaft, lay the shock on its side so the Vise-Grip is braced against the ground, and wrench the top nut free! - Chris
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:12:00 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found Another use for an old serpentine belt... -----Original Message----- From: Chris Papademetrious [mailto:chrispy@ieee.org] Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 6:33 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:24:12 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein rear shocks --> trouble found To add to the good advice of others, Due to the design of Konis on my other car, I lacked the special wrench to hold the shaft still while removing the top nut - a similar situation to yours. Using an impact gun, I was able to remove one nut without having to hold the shaft at all. On the other, it didn't. I wasn't sure if Vice-Grips would mar the strut tube, and I didn't take any chances. I used pliers along with one of those rubber oil filter grabbers to hold the shaft; the nut came right off. If you don't have an impact wrench, using something grippy like that oil filter grabber and a set of Vise-Grip locking pliers would probably allow you to use hand tools as well. Just lock the Vise-Grips to whatever you've wrapped around the shaft, lay the shock on its side so the Vise-Grip is braced against the ground, and wrench the top nut free! - Chris ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:32:04 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? I am purchasing an engine from a 1995 M3 and would like to at least get some of the vehicle's history to make sure that the seller's story (specifically mileage) jives with various vehicle records. Accordingly, is the VIN marked on the engine? If so, where is it located? Thanks. Geof
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:50:37 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? At the very least, there should be a VIN sticker at the rear of the cylinder head. I don't know if there is one on the block. Nick > I am purchasing an engine from a 1995 M3 and would like to at least get > some of the vehicle's history to make sure that the seller's story > (specifically mileage) jives with various vehicle records. Accordingly, is > the VIN marked on the engine? If so, where is it located? > > Thanks. > > Geof
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#5. Need some eyes in Ft. Worth/Dallas area - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:35:22 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: Need some eyes in Ft. Worth/Dallas area Hi, I'm interested in a car in the Ft. Worth area and I live in Knoxville, TN so I need a someone that could look at this car for me tomorrow before 8PM. The car's on eBay and the auction ends around 8 PM tomorrow night. I'll be glad to slip a little something in your next pay check if you can help me out here ;-). I don't have the exact directions, because they're closed today. I can give you their phone number or the address tomorrow when I contact them. TIA Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain Chapter BMW CCA 865-694-3088
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#6. Re:Klunk Gone and miscelany - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:45:42 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re:Klunk Gone and miscelany My face hurts from smiling. Friday night, I pulled the monoball RSM's and replaced them with the E46M3 OEM jobbies and a few interior noises aside, the car is solid and quiet! All that remains are the sunroof, driver's side door panel and a felt strip to cover the aging lip of rubber on the top back of the rear seats where they rub the plastic frame of the pass-thu. The sunroof I've seen writeups on, so next is the door panel. The back edge, and mainly on top where it curves over by the lock are just loose enough that I can open about an eighth-inch gap. Just loose enough to make noise. Any info or writeups on this piece of trim work? Is it simply getting some new retaining clips and following Uncle Bentley? Thanks all, Steve '95 M3 -'Em' Quiet, planted pleasure machine. By the by, I've managed to strip out one of my rear Koni SA's allen keyway. In working on a project with a friend, my metric allen wrenches traded a few of their friends for SAE's, and just before the lock-nut broke free, the small diference in specs chewed out nice chunks of the keyway. I wound up using my trusty dremel and notching just enough of the top to get a good hold with a large regular screwdriver. I'ts worked fine, but now that the klunk is gone (huzzah!) I won't be disassembling them nearly as much. ;?P
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#7. Which suspension to buy - from Pilewan23@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 00:58:38 EDT From: Pilewan23@aol.com Subject: Which suspension to buy <PRE> Hello M3 owners I'm looking at replacing at least the struts/shocks with either Koni or Bilstein. What is the preferred shock. Just worried about the Koni reliability. Ajay
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Negatives of E30M3...Now Creeper Tour - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:23:04 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Negatives of E30M3...Now Creeper Tour > Yeah, this is what I do before every event with my race car. The solid > bushings on the car tend to rattle stuff loose. I go under before every > event with a pile of sockets resting on my chest and roll from location to > location with a torque wrench. Takes a bit of time, and I have used > loctite on some of the more loosening-prone fasteners. I highly recommend > this to any newbie race car owner (like myself). I only knew to do it when > I was trying to locate a noise at the track one weekend and got under the > car after about 4 events and noticed that A LOT of stuff had backed off > from their original torque. Now it's part of every pre-track checklist. Here's a tip I learned from crawling over a lot of race cars over the last couple of years to get ideas for mine. For all those important suspension, brake, etc. fasteners, put a stripe of paint (nail polish works great) across the head of the fastener and the mounting surface--be sure to do both sides of through bolt/nut. That way, with a quick visual inspection, if the lines on the fastener and the mount don't line up, you know that the bolt has loosened up. HTH, John ps-Shane, have that VIR video?
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#9. Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:22:52 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins When you hit the recirculate button on your car, the AC compressor should automatically engage (the AC light won't turn on though) at least on all digital HVAC controlled cars. They did this to avoid fogging up the windows, which always happened in a very short order in my '92 325is with the mechanical system as it did not engage the AC compressor when I'd hit recirculate. I run AC and recirculate all the time, you make more efficient use of your HVAC filter. It cuts out even more pollen/dust/fumes etc. I change my HVAC filter every spring regardless of total miles, you reduce/elminate the amount of mold that has a tendency to grow in HVAC systems. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Injector service - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:02:21 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Injector service > I'm looking for a place to send my injectors to be > cleaned/blueprinted/whatever while I've got them out of the car. Anyone > got any recommendations? I know on one list someone posted about a > place that was ~$30 per and had excellent turn-around times, but I > forget where that was. Any advice is appreciated. I know that RC Engineering does injectors for many of the SVWC teams, including McMillian and TC Kline. www.rceng.com. No idea on the cost though. John