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#1. Injector service - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:37:33 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Injector service Rob, I recommend http://www.cruzinperformance.com. Rich Jensen did two sets of injectors for me (for my 1989 325is and my 1990 325is), $10 per injector. He does everything the others do, just charges less. When I asked him about this, he said everyone else overcharges and he wants to stay busy. I say let's keep him busy. Check out his website, he thoroughly describes the process. Turnaround time was about a week. When the injectors came back, they looked like new with new pintle caps, new and freshly lubricated o-rings. Just plug them in and go. Best regards, Rich
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#2. Re: Klunk - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:43:17 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Klunk Chester- Indeed you did and I know better to listen now! How does that saying go? "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." Ha! Thanks again for all your experience and help! Chester writes: >Man, I think I suggested RSMs a long time ago :) >I'm glad everything worked out for you!!! >Chester
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#3. [E36M3] Welding a Strut - Koni SA? - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:51:51 -0400 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: [E36M3] Welding a Strut - Koni SA? Hi everyone, It seems that there's a tiny bit of play between my Koni SA insert and top of the strut casing. It appears that the previous owner cut the strut casing a tiny bit short, so the knurled top of the Koni insert doesn't quite hit the top of the strut case. I could redo the install on a new strut casing, but I was thinking I might just put a couple of tiny tack welds where the top of the strut casing meets the Koni insert. Obviously, I don't want to weld through the insert and damage it, so that my question. Has anyone ever weld a shock/strut successfully? How thick are the shock walls? I was thinking of buying a MIG welder and practicing on my old rear shocks. By the way, tightening the bottom bolt of the insert (which was a bit loose) does appeared to have solved the slight play, but I was looking for a better solution. Thanks, Colin '98 M3 (Dinan Stage 1, JC intake and software...)
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#4. Extended Maint Warranty - from Gary Brauch
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:13:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Brauch <gjbrauch@yahoo.com> Subject: Extended Maint Warranty According to Roundel, the extended maintenance warranty for all 6-cyl BMW's has an MRP of $399, but all my local dealers quote $699. Has anyone had any luck finding it at $399? Thanks, Gary Brauch '02 M3 __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! News - Today's headlines http://news.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: Which suspension to buy - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:25:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Which suspension to buy on 9/16/02 9:13 AM, Pilewan23@aol.com wrote: > Hello M3 owners I'm looking at replacing at least the struts/shocks with > either Koni or Bilstein. What is the preferred shock. Just worried about the > Koni reliability. > Ajay You don't state the reasons for or expectations from your proposed damper replacement, or which springs you'll be using, all of which may affect the answer. However as a single data point, my Koni rears have been on the car for more than 50K miles, including quite a few on track, and still work like champs. (An accident-damaged front and its mate were replaced early this year because of an accident, but were also working fine at that point.) Bilsteins certainly have a reputation for longevity, as many users will attest. Neil 96 M3
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#6. RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins - from Mike
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:18:15 -0700 From: "Mike" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins The lights/display show like they are working, just no air/fan is on when this occurs. Hmm. Looks like I may have to buy a new unit when this starts occurring more frequently. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: Mike Frank [mailto:mfrank28@comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 2:05 PM To: 'E36M3' Cc: mike@worklife.com Subject: RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins Mike, Do all the lights/display go out? Maybe some go out but operation isn't consistent with the display? If so it sounds like your climate control unit is going bad. I had very similar symptoms when mine started to go. It gets worse. If you pop the OBC and apply pressure to the large (blue?) connector on the back of the unit you can probably get it to turn on and off. This is a very common problem. These things seem to fail like clockwork after about 5 years. Solution: buy a new climate control. Good news: not backordered anymore (tells you how many were failing). Bad news: ~$200. I did see some detailed instructions about reflowing solder joints on the PCB to fix the problem - almost certainly a cracked trace/joint. I took mine apart and took a look at it and decided to just buy a new one. BTW, I'm an electrical engineer and have all the tools, supplies, and experience necessary. However, it's very easy to spend a good deal of time on this and 1) you don't fix it 2) you fry or damage something 3) It works temporarily and fails a week, month, year later. Not worth the hassle personally. Once you install the new unit you will have to make a trip to the dealer for some "programming", unless you like the temp readout in Celsius. I have a good relationship with the parts/service people at my local dealer so they just did it for free (bought the CC from them). Otherwise I think they may charge you 1/2 to 1 hour of labor. No idea about the recirculating air thing. FWIW, I never use mine. Must be why it crapped out. :) HTH, Mike Frank 97 M3 > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:54:58 -0700 > From: "Mike" <mike@worklife.com> > Subject: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins > > > I recently purchased a 1997 M3 and think I've found a few pesky BMW > Gremlins. Lately with the heat and all, I've started using > the A/C more > often. Occasionally, the A/C will turn off completely. No > matter what > I do it stays off - even if I toggle with the ac on /off button, etc. > Then a few minutes later it will come back on again - with and without > me messing with the controls even! > > Any ideas what's going on here? > > In a related note, I've noticed recently (not sure if this is the case > all the time or not) that this occurs most frequently when > waiting at a > traffic light. When I start moving again, the A/C kicks back on. > > Let me know what the deal is with this! > > Also, do I need to have the recycled air button on when I'm > running A/C? > When I purchased my car the dealer told me I needed to hit that > everytime I use A/C. He made it sound like I could break > something if I > didn't. Does that really effect anything other than > recycling the air? > i.e. will it damage the a/c system if I don't/do use it? > > Let me know! > -Mike
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#7. Re: Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:28:40 -0500 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: Re: Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? The block I have here has some stamped and forged numbers. The stamped = ones are located on the oil filter side right above the oil pan. The = forged ones are on the same side higher up near the freeze plugs. I = don't know if they are vin, cause I don't have what the engine was = attached too. They might be the last seven numbers as there are only a = coupl letters anywhere. If the engine is out of the car and you want to = know whether or not to keep it, pull the oil pan and see how dirty it = is. That will give you an idea of how oil maintenance was. HTH, but it = might not. Kris -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:32:04 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Is the VIN marked on a 1995 M3 engine? I am purchasing an engine from a 1995 M3 and would like to at least get=20 some of the vehicle's history to make sure that the seller's story=20 (specifically mileage) jives with various vehicle records. Accordingly, = is=20 the VIN marked on the engine? If so, where is it located? Thanks. Geof=20
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#8. Re: strut/shock replacement - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:37:05 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: strut/shock replacement I found mine were the same. I packed some all-purpose grease in there since the residue from the original grease was dried out. I noticed no adverse or positive change. >Anybody recommend [or tried] packing grease in the strut hat bearing when replacing the struts?They came off dry, Shane K. '96 M3 '494 325i KP #335 This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#9. FS: Front & Rear Koni SAs - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:54:13 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: Front & Rear Koni SAs Ooh... My first "FS" post. So exciting. ;) I have front and rear Koni SAs from my E36M3 for sale. These have about 25K miles on them and are only being sold because I now have Bilstein Sports on the car. I already have someone interested in just the fronts, but I'd prefer to sell all four to the same buyer. If you happen to only need rears, let me know. The fronts are in the factory strut housings, so there's no need to do a cut 'n gut. The strut housings themselves are about 86K miles old, however, so they're not the prettiest things in town, but they are fully functional (sort of like me). ;) The brake line "holders" on one side are a little bit bent up too, but fixable. I'd prefer to sell these to someone in So Cal who can look at them first, to be sure they know what they're getting. If you'll be at Buttonwillow this coming weekend, I can bring them with me for you to look at, but you'll have to let me know within a couple of days. All four new pieces from TC Kline run about $620 with their "racer" discount. I don't really know what a fair price to ask would be, so make me an offer... without insulting me. ;) ;) Thanks for the bandwidth, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#10. Brake Pad Question? - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:28:53 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Brake Pad Question? Good Afternoon Guys, Quick question about brakes. My low pad indicator light came on yesterday afternoon. How much time do I have until it must be changed. I'm am not implying that I want to drive without addressing the issue. I just don't know if I'm going to be able to fix it myself (very busy weekend coming up) or if I should take it to my trusted mechanic now. Please Advise. As always, thanks for the feedback in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 SDN Windy City Chapter