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#1. Best place to buy 95 M3 Front Bilstein struts and new/re-man 80A - from Jesse Chamberlain
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:59:01 -0400 From: Jesse Chamberlain <JChamberlain@mapletree.com> Subject: Best place to buy 95 M3 Front Bilstein struts and new/re-man 80A bosch alternator..? Hello List Where is the best place to buy the above mentioned parts? I have called a few places for the 95 M3 front bilstein struts (I already have the rears), and I have gotten a quote of about 185ish each. Is there any place that has them for cheaper? How about an alternator? I am looking to get a new/re-manufactured Bosch 80Amp alternator. I have seen prices of the 140Amp part for about 250 in some places, but can't seem to find the 80Amp part. I dont want to go with the 140Amp part because its a seems to be a bigger, beefier part, and would seem to put more of a load on the engine (less performance?). (of course, If im mistaken here, please correct me). Thanks for your help. Jesse Chamberlain 325i with full M3 front and rear suspension...
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#2. Re: Brake Pad Question? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:10:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake Pad Question? on 9/16/02 2:43 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > Quick question about brakes. My low pad indicator light came on yesterday > afternoon. How much time do I have until it must be changed. Lots of time, unless your daily commute includes full tilt boogie driving down mountain roads followed by some hot laps of your favourite race track. The sensors are very conservative as to the remaining pad thickness. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: Welding a Strut - Koni SA? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:14:52 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Welding a Strut - Koni SA? on 9/16/02 2:43 PM, <Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com> wrote: > It seems that there's a tiny bit of play between my Koni SA insert and top > of the strut casing. It appears that the previous owner cut the strut > casing a tiny bit short, so the knurled top of the Koni insert doesn't > quite hit the top of the strut case. I could redo the install on a new > strut casing, but I was thinking I might just put a couple of tiny tack > welds where the top of the strut casing meets the Koni insert. Obviously, > I don't want to weld through the insert and damage it, so that my question. > Has anyone ever weld a shock/strut successfully? How thick are the shock > walls? I was thinking of buying a MIG welder and practicing on my old rear > shocks. > > By the way, tightening the bottom bolt of the insert (which was a bit > loose) does appeared to have solved the slight play, but I was looking for > a better solution. Colin, Sounds as if you may be in search of a solution to a problem you no longer have. I suggest that you either: 1) Live with it if the movement is very slight or is in fact gone, or else 2) Pull the Koni cartridge and crimp/flatten the stock strut casing with a vise or BFH until the cartridge just fits snuggly. Neil 96 M3 - Koni SA
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#4. RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins - from Mike Frank
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:18:45 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins Mike, There's also a resistor pack which tends to go bad. I haven't experienced this first hand, but others have said it causes the blower to behave erratically - fan indicates medium speed (or anything really) but actually runs low, then possibly kicks on full blast. Everything else seems to work OK except the fan. Can anyone else comment who has actually experienced this? This may be your problem, which would be a good thing since it's a much cheaper fix. HTH, Mike Frank > -----Original Message----- > From: Mike [mailto:mike@worklife.com] > Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 11:18 AM > To: mfrank28@comcast.net; 'E36M3' > Subject: RE: Intermittant A/C Questions + Pesky BMW Gremlins > > > The lights/display show like they are working, just no > air/fan is on when this occurs. > > Hmm. Looks like I may have to buy a new unit when this starts > occurring more frequently. > > -Mike
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#5. Re: Brake Pad Question? - from david tow
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:27:20 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Brake Pad Question? Michael, When the light came on, in my case, I kept driving the car for another two weeks. The worn pads were quite marginal when I inspected them during installation of new ones. It really depends on your driving style/conditions though... David Tow ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:28:53 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Brake Pad Question? Good Afternoon Guys, Quick question about brakes. My low pad indicator light came on yesterday afternoon. How much time do I have until it must be changed. I'm am not implying that I want to drive without addressing the issue. I just don't know if I'm going to be able to fix it myself (very busy weekend coming up) or if I should take it to my trusted mechanic now. Please Advise. As always, thanks for the feedback in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 SDN Windy City Chapter _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#6. Bumpstops Missing? - from Mike Frank
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:28:54 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Bumpstops Missing? Does anyone else out there with the Koni/H&R Setup NOT run bumpstops in the front? When switching from Sports to DTM springs recently I "think" I remember not having bumpstops in the front. I know I have trimmed bumpstops in the rear, but don't remember any in the front. Is removal part of the recommended procedure when installing? I can't remember because it's been a few years. I spoke with Roland from H&R when installing so I did whatever he recommended at the time. I think I could possibly use a small bumpstop (for street driving) due to the H&R DTM springs being so damn short in the front. Thanks, Mike Frank
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#7. Re:Which Suspension to Buy? - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:05:54 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: Re:<Misc>Which Suspension to Buy? You really need to understand: Where are you going to drive the car? Smooth roads? NYC? What are you going to do? Commute? Track the car? How many mile/yr do you drive? How much is comfort important to you? That said, you really should get rides in as many representative cars as you can. If you don't know exactly why you're buying Koni's vs Bilsteins, OE sport vs sport vs race springs, then you probably shouldn't spend the money yet. I watched one poor soul get very good at changing suspensions when he did it twice in a month after buying a suspension that sounded right on paper but felt too firm in practice. As for Koni reliability...save your receipts. They'll replace them if they fail. They ship you replacements, then you ship back the old products. Marc Plante E36 325i, 205k Koni/H&R OE sport (Among other things) Vienna, VA
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#8. Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:39:50 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA I would try shimming the strut at the top first. Use some thin sheet aluminum and shim it in. The play is what is loosening it, so you just need to take the play out. To keep the shims from working out you could put a hose clamp around the top... Others may have better ideas, but that is what I would try before breaking out the welder... Shane K. >It seems that there's a tiny bit of play between my Koni SA insert and top >of the strut casing. It appears that the previous owner cut the strut >casing a tiny bit short, so the knurled top of the Koni insert doesn't >quite hit the top of the strut case. I could redo the install on a new >strut casing, but I was thinking I might just put a couple of tiny tack >welds where the top of the strut casing meets the Koni insert. Obviously, >By the way, tightening the bottom bolt of the insert (which was a bit >loose) does appeared to have solved the slight play, but I was looking for >a better solution. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#9. [E36M3] Welding a Strut - Koni SA? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:40:46 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Welding a Strut - Koni SA? > >Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:51:51 -0400 >From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com >Subject: [E36M3] Welding a Strut - Koni SA? > > >Hi everyone, > >It seems that there's a tiny bit of play between my Koni SA insert and top >of the strut casing. It appears that the previous owner cut the strut >casing a tiny bit short, so the knurled top of the Koni insert doesn't >quite hit the top of the strut case. I could redo the install on a new >strut casing, but I was thinking I might just put a couple of tiny tack >welds where the top of the strut casing meets the Koni insert. Obviously, >I don't want to weld through the insert and damage it, so that my question. >Has anyone ever weld a shock/strut successfully? How thick are the shock >walls? I was thinking of buying a MIG welder and practicing on my old rear >shocks. > >By the way, tightening the bottom bolt of the insert (which was a bit >loose) does appeared to have solved the slight play, but I was looking for >a better solution. > >Thanks, >Colin > >'98 M3 (Dinan Stage 1, JC intake and software...) Why don't you buy a cheap feeler gauge set and stuff some appropriate size feller gauge strips into the sides between the insert and the strut housing. I'll bet if you wedge them in tightly that'll take care of the problem. Jay
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:45:59 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA shane, you beat me to the same exact suggestion (too much work this afternoon to reply earlier <g>). i also think shimming the top of the tube is the best method for stopping the movement. i thought he could fold sheetmetal shims back onto the strut and tack weld that, but a hose clamp holding in aluminum shims would likely work too (on sheetmetal or aluminum). rich > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Reply-To: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:33:00 -0500 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA > > Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:39:50 -0400 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Subject: Re: Welding a strut - Koni SA > > > I would try shimming the strut at the top first. Use some thin sheet > aluminum and shim it in. The play is what is loosening it, so you just > need to take the play out. To keep the shims from working out you could > put a hose clamp around the top... > > Others may have better ideas, but that is what I would try before breaking > out the welder... > > Shane K. > > >> It seems that there's a tiny bit of play between my Koni SA insert and top >> of the strut casing. It appears that the previous owner cut the strut >> casing a tiny bit short, so the knurled top of the Koni insert doesn't >> quite hit the top of the strut case. I could redo the install on a new >> strut casing, but I was thinking I might just put a couple of tiny tack >> welds where the top of the strut casing meets the Koni insert. Obviously, > >> By the way, tightening the bottom bolt of the insert (which was a bit >> loose) does appeared to have solved the slight play, but I was looking for >> a better solution.