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#1. Mechanic in SB - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 08:06:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Mechanic in SB The service interval lights are making their way to the yellow (at 31k) and I'm debating whether to do Inspection II with the help of an experienced friend, or take the car to a mechanic to have a thorough going-through. I think it's a long shot, but does anyone know / have experience with a good Santa Barbara area mechanic or shop that is extremely experienced or fanatical about BMWs and M3s? I could take it to the dealer, but I figure if the guy that does the work isn't as goofy about this car as I am, I'm better off doing it myself. Thank you, Jason. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! News - Today's headlines http://news.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: Crisping the Springs - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:31:39 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Crisping the Springs James- Thank you again for this tip! Last night, I finally got a chance to wrap about 1.25 coils on the fronts, and on my drive in this morning, the results were dramatic! Where the front felt very quick to respond but lagging a bit with body roll, it now moves quick-as-thought with hardly any lurching at all. I haven't had a chance to throw it around yet, but I don't think I'll have to do much tuning to length or placement. with the car level, I noted where the coils first stop resting on each other and then went 1.125-1.25 turns from there. I secured the end points and the middle with fiber glass strapping tape for now, and I'll keep checking it to see how it holds up. Thanks again! Steve On Thursday, September 5, 2002, at 04:04 PM, James Clay wrote: > Take fuel line (1/2") or so and slip it on the tightly spaced coils - > you > will need to tune to determine how much to cover. It will make them > static > and put you in the higher spring rates of the progression. > > James
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#3. Re: [E36M3] leather restoration(vaders) - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:34:34 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] leather restoration(vaders) BTW, if you spray, do not breath aniline dyes (dyes that soak through leather, you can tell aniline dye was used by looking at the back side and seeing that it penetrated, not just brushed on the surface. Also, do not get it on the skin. Some aniline dyes are highly carcinogenic (it's hypothesized especially the darker colors that have a coal-tar pigmentation present), causing leukemia, lymphoma, or multiple myeloma (all blood cancers). It should be intuitively obvious to you that anything can penetrate 1/8"-1/4" of leather clear to the other side can penetrate skin & tissue. From there, it can alter your DNA. Just use your head, and do not subscribe to the childish taunt: "Everything causes cancer <so I don't care, I'll just live as I please>". Cancer is only caused by radiation, some <retro>viruses, and some chemical carcinogens. The list of causal agents is actually very small. And it occurs because we have proto-oncogenes (genes that are susceptible to cancer..we all have 'em because we are multi-cellular animals). If we're hit with radiation, retroviruses, or carcinogens, they can then change from proto-oncogenes to a mean-as-hell oncogene. The immune system nukes some oncogenes for us (about 10-12 times per day, in each of us), but sometimes they escape getting nuked. Then we have big trouble... Genes carry instructions to make organs. The oncogene (a cancer gene) instructs the body to create a new organ that was never intended to be in the human body. This new organ is called the tumor. It's a new organ...kinda like the movie "Alien." Except it's scarier. It's not really obvious until pointed out, in this example the leather dye is actually more dangerous than the acetone (of course, unless you drink the acetone, your liver & kidneys will then hate you). Acetone can be hard on skin, but it isn't a known mutagen, tumorigen, or carcinogen. Who would have thought that? I guess we assume the worst smelling product is the most harmful, which is clearly incorrect in this example. Treat penetrating dyes with a great deal of respect. Use your head, take safety precautions...end of lecture from old fart (age 44 next month)... - Skip (BMW content: now suffering with fiancee with cancer & missing driving schools) More BMW content: the biggest carcinogens we're exposed to are Benzene (in gasoline) and spent motor oil, so don't bath your hands in oil or wash car parts in gasoline. Chester Wong wrote: > > Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 06:02:05 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] leather restoration(vaders) > > I've used the coloring products for the leather and it's pretty straight > forward. I think you use acetone to strip the existing color off, allow to dry > and apply the new color. I highly recommend using a hobby airbrush to apply > the color. Not sure how people use a brush without getting streaks... > > Chester > > --- Pilewan23@aol.com wrote: > > I was looking to restore the grey vaders in my 95 Avus blue #36 M3. > > Has anyone applied the Woolies or Leatherique products themselves? Was the > > results as good as you'd like? I need to restore about 2 inches of color on > > the drivers seat. > > ===== >
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#4. H&R coilovers - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:29:15 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: H&R coilovers I just replaced my rear H&R coilover springs with Eibach ERS 2.5" ID 450 lbs/in 7" springs. Very nice! I think they raised the car 1/4" or so, I gotta fix that, but other than that, the car rides very nicely. It's stiffer over small stuff but much better over big stuff and the turn-in is amazing! feels great. I am gonna try to put 400s up front and go up to 525s in the rear. Anyone have a set of 525s they'd want to trade for 450s? (Eibach 2.5" 7" springs) thanks! -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#5. Re: Koni or Bilstein - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:44:37 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni or Bilstein on 9/17/02 10:13 AM, Pilewan23@aol.com wrote: > I am looking to replace the original boges with either Bilstien or the Konis, > only a street driven car. The car won't be tracked at all, just looking to > tighten things up. Is anyone in the NY, NJ area willing to give a Newbie a > ride in their E36 M3? Ajay, Bilsteins are quite stiff, and non-adjustable. They are however fairly easy to install, with the exception of the need to disassemble the fronts and trim the too-long bumpstops. Konis are adjustable from at least as soft as stock to considerably stiffer. However Konis also require a more complicated installation process at the front, generally described as the "cut 'n gut routine." Both products are well made and durable. Neil 96 M3
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#6. E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? - from matthew c. mead
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 14:59:56 -0400 From: "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> Subject: E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? This probably sounds like a silly question, but I can find nothing on it in the Bentley Manual. How do I remove the plastic engine cover from my M3 to change out the spark plugs? Thanks! -matt -- matthew c. mead 97 Dakar M3/4 - sharked, xbraced 97 White GS-R/4 - stock (wife's) 92 Black Miata - dropped, dampened, headed towards SM http://www.goof.com/~mmead/
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#7. TONS of M3 Aftermarket Goodies for SALE!!! - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:03:41 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: TONS of M3 Aftermarket Goodies for SALE!!! So, my 97 will be stripped and turned back to stock for sale. Here is what needs to go!!! 1) Set of front and rear Bilsteins with H&R Sport Springs. Less than a year old and 5K miles only. Have lifetime warranty. Reciept can be provided for future "warranty claim" if it makes a difference. $375 2) ECIS heatsheild with K&N Cold Air Induction comes with K&N Airfilter cleaner $125 3) KMAC Camber plates for the front $125 4) 4 Mille Miglia MM1/2 8*17 (gray smoke color) wheels with extended lug nuts (incase you use 10mm spacers). Mint condition. They were my track only wheels and are shiny (I always wiped the darn brake dust) and has no curb rashes. $425 5) Brand new Dunlop Winter Sport M2 Tires size 255/40/17 VRated. Paid $153 each plus shipping (total of $332). Can be had for $225 for both. 6) Stock Jurid pads for front. 85% life left. $25. 7) Racing Dynamics front and rear sway bars with drop links (links were replaced $5K miles and are functional). $150 8) JTD Rear Shock mounts $45 If you have stock M3 springs, swaybars, shocks and rear mounts, we can adjust (and trade). All parts will be available end of the month. All parts less than year old. Contact me privately. Regards, Ahmad Lutfeali _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 14:07:34 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> wrote: > > This probably sounds like a silly question, but I can find > nothing on it in the Bentley Manual. How do I remove the > plastic engine cover from my M3 to change out the spark plugs? Matt, Two options: 1. SawzAll. 2. Pop the round plastic plugs on the covers and unscrew the nuts/bolts. HTH, alex f
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#9. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:02:27 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? matthew mead writes: > This probably sounds like a silly question, but I can find > nothing on it in the Bentley Manual. How do I remove the plastic > engine cover from my M3 to change out the spark plugs? There's these plastic cover looking things (a little bigger than quarter sized), pop those out with a screwdriver, then remove the 2 exposed 10mm nuts. Presto, the plastic cover pulls off. Andrej '97 M3
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 12:12:30 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Engine Cover Removal? At 12:02 PM 9/17/02, matthew c. mead wrote: >This probably sounds like a silly question, but I can find >nothing on it in the Bentley Manual. How do I remove the plastic >engine cover from my M3 to change out the spark plugs? Pop off the two round covers, and remove the 10mm nuts underneath. Remove the oil fill cap and remove the cover. Easy :-) Jim Bassett