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#1. Which camber plates - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:19:21 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Which camber plates I am still gathering parts to do my spring/shock swap and I am considering doing some camber plates. I want to use these to correct any camber issues caused by lowering the car (H&R OE Sport Springs). I want maximum tire wear while retaining as much handling as possible. I know I have an issue on the driver's left of the car with too much camber now. I'm hoping that when I replace everything up front and re-align the car the problem goes away. No, I haven't measured the Included Angle to determine where the problem is, I have been very lazy. Is this a sensible course of action? Which camber plates should I consider? I have heard many people mention Kmac, but I've never seen them advertised anywhere. Who sells these? Are these race-only pieces? Thanks for the info, Mel
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Best place to buy UUC tranny mounts? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:28:20 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best place to buy UUC tranny mounts? Oh come on! They only cost like $70 don' they? :-) Dave > Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:24:23 -0700 (PDT) > From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > Subject: Best place to buy UUC tranny mounts? > > Looking to get the UUC tranny mount bushings and > enforcers. I was just about to order them from UUC > when I wondered if they're available from another > distributor for less. Anyone know? > > -josh > > ===== > Josh Wyte > Momentum Motorsports > 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo! > http://sbc.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************ > * List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes > you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files > available in the list's GET directory. GET > filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************ > * > > >
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#3. Re: Brakelight warning - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:18:43 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Brakelight warning Tony, Do you have the still have the stock amber tailights? Some of the aftermarket clear tailight assemblies have a reputation of throwing erroneous "brake light circuit" errors on the OBC. Mine do it quite often. jeff > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:33:52 -0700 (PDT) > From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> > Subject: Brakelight warning > > > THe brake light warning on the OBC keeps coming on but > the lights are all working fine. > I remember something about a switch going out where is > that located on the car. > > Tony
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#4. BMW Paint Question - from Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:18:04 -0500 From: Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03 <Christopher.Darling@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> Subject: BMW Paint Question I'm having some paint work done on my 1995 Dakar Yellow M3. 10/94 production. Does anyone know what kind of factory paint originally came on the car?? Brand name, oil base vs water base, clearcoat or not, etc?? Thanks, Cod
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#5. Coilovers - from Payet, Bernardo
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:23:36 -0400 From: "Payet, Bernardo" <bbpayet@bechtel.com> Subject: Coilovers Has anyone had the chance to experience the different Coilover offerings on the market for the E36 M3: TC Kline's Koni DA "New Package", Ground Control's Advanced DA Package, Turners H&R Coilover Package. I am building a dedicated car for ITS and am in between the Ground Control "Advanced Design" DA setup or the TC Kline "Koni" DA Setup. I have heard great things about both. Nothing to tip the scales yet. Regards, Bernardo Payet Project Controls - Bechtel SPM Team Cingular Genesis Overlay Project Atlanta, GA (404) 591-8342 bbpayet@bechtel.com
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#6. re: Best place to buy UUC tranny mounts - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:28:06 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: re: Best place to buy UUC tranny mounts Josh wrote: "Looking to get the UUC tranny mount bushings and enforcers. I was just about to order them from UUC when I wondered if they're available from another distributor for less. Anyone know?" I did in fact pre-purchase mine from UCC, great product, nice fit and finish, however another list member pointed out these little goodies - http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=shaftcollars&FT_101=139&FT _158=40818&session=shaftcollars;101=139;158=40818 Kim Burgess - now with _scary_ solid shifter
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Which camber plates - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:37:13 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which camber plates "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> wrote: > > I am still gathering parts to do my spring/shock swap and I am > considering doing some camber plates. I want to use these to > correct any camber issues caused by lowering the car (H&R OE > Sport Springs). Mel, H&R OE springs are unlikely to lower your car enough to cause any major 'issues'. > I want maximum tire wear while retaining as much handling as > possible. Where do I start. How much tire wear are interesting at preserving? How much of a handling hit are you willing to take? How hard do you drive? Are you trying to return to the stock camber settings? If so, why are you touching the springs in the first place? Or do you want just a little more camber? If so the H&R OE springs will give you just that. > I know I have an issue on the driver's left of the car with too > much camber now. I'm hoping that when I replace everything up > front and re-align the car the problem goes away. No, I haven't > measured the Included Angle to determine where the problem is, I > have been very lazy. Do you have any problems with the tire wear now? > Is this a sensible course of action? Which camber plates should > I consider? I have heard many people mention Kmac, but I've never > seen them advertised anywhere. Who sells these? Are these > race-only pieces? KMACs are the only street friendly camber plates that I know about. The bushing is enclosed in polyurethane sp? thus providing some durability and comfort vs. monoball plates. One major downside to KMACs is that you can not adjust camber and caster independently. You unscrew the three camber plate to shock tower mounting nuts and use a screw driver to move the top of the strut in a two-directional plane. The marketing claim that you can adjust the camber with the wheels on the ground is BS. You need to have the wheel in the air to get the plate to move. The other downside is that -2.5-2.8 degrees is all you will ever get out of KMACs. Real race plates will be required to get into the -3.0-4.5 degree range. I've had them on my car for the last ~2 years/20K miles and they are still fine. Turner would be one source. But there are plenty more. Just search the web. alex f
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re: Brakelight warning - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:48:24 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Brakelight warning Also, a trailer harness will cause occasional and erratic taillight failure warnings. I get them every once in awhile from the harness. When I do I usually jiggle the wires and it goes away. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Stowe [mailto:jrstowe@pacbell.net] Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 5:13 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Brakelight warning Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:18:43 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Brakelight warning Tony, Do you have the still have the stock amber tailights? Some of the aftermarket clear tailight assemblies have a reputation of throwing erroneous "brake light circuit" errors on the OBC. Mine do it quite often. jeff > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:33:52 -0700 (PDT) > From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> > Subject: Brakelight warning > > > THe brake light warning on the OBC keeps coming on but > the lights are all working fine. > I remember something about a switch going out where is > that located on the car. > > Tony ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. Rear Suspention And Tire Wear - from Bill P
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 18:05:15 -0400 From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> Subject: Rear Suspention And Tire Wear I have a 1995 M3 with Koni Shocks/Struts, H&R Sport Springs, UUC sway bars, JTD RSM's, BMW Motorsport X-Brace and Strut Tower brace, K-Mac Front Camber plates, and AA Adjustable Rear camber Correction Arms. The wheels are Fikse FM/10's in 17X8.5 front and 17X9 rear with 245/40ZR17 Potenza's all around. The car rides pretty good and handles very well. The only problem is I am having the worst tire wear I have EVER seen, especially in the rear. I JUST drove PA to Atlanta and back (1600 MILES) and wore out a new set of rear tires. The rear was covered in black powdered rubber. I have tried various alignment shops here in my area with no success. They all get the car within "specs" but it never feels right. The front tires wear on the inside and the rear wear in the center (more) and inside. I have had the left rear tire blow out the inside sidewall 3 times within the past year. This is not right. Does anyone have a recommended alignment "specs" for a lowered E-36 M3? Does anyone think it may be something else wrong with the rear that is causing this? I am aware the front usually wear faster on the inside, but is there any way to stop this. I am on my 3rd set of rears and 2nd set of front tires within the past year. I need to correct this ASAP. Thanks Bill P
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rear Suspention And Tire Wear - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:22:16 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Suspention And Tire Wear "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> wrote: > > I have a 1995 M3 with Koni Shocks/Struts, H&R Sport Springs, UUC sway bars, > JTD RSM's, BMW Motorsport X-Brace and Strut Tower brace, K-Mac Front Camber > plates, and AA Adjustable Rear camber Correction Arms. The wheels are Fikse > FM/10's in 17X8.5 front and 17X9 rear with 245/40ZR17 Potenza's all around. > The car rides pretty good and handles very well. The only problem is I am > having the worst tire wear I have EVER seen, especially in the rear. I JUST > drove PA to Atlanta and back (1600 MILES) and wore out a new set of rear > tires. The rear was covered in black powdered rubber. I have tried various > alignment shops here in my area with no success. They all get the car > within "specs" but it never feels right. Bill, What were the 'specs' to which the car was aligned last? The rear covered in 'black powdered rubber' sounds very strange. Have you rolled your rear fenders? Are you sure the rear tires are not rubbing somewhere? > The front tires wear on the inside and the rear wear in the center (more) > and inside. I have had the left rear tire blow out the inside sidewall 3 > times within the past year. This is not right. > > Does anyone have a recommended alignment "specs" for a lowered E-36 M3? Anything less than -2.0-2.5 degrees negative camber _and_ moderately aggressive driving will result in more or less balanced tire wear. Stock camber settings are around -1.2 degrees front and back (don't remember exactly). Yours problem sounds like exessive rear and front camber. > Does anyone think it may be something else wrong with the rear that is > causing this? You may have excessive toe out. How are you rear control arms? Had you ever towed or dynoed your car (two common ways to bent the arms)? > I am aware the front usually wear faster on the inside, but is there > any way to stop this. No. The fronts usually wear on the outsides. The rears on the insides. alex f