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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: steering racks revisited - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:37:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: steering racks revisited Hmmmm....I discovered a few things....the internals from all the remanufactured racks seem to be the same. Yes, the Z3 Coupe has 2.7 turns lock to lock, but it has virtually the same ratio as the E36M3 ones. So...that means you'd get a bigger turning radius with the Z3 Coupe one. Methinks that the original one would have a quicker ratio. Also, not sure how my stock rack compares, but the remanufactured one appears to have a constant ratio. Then again, I don't know what they mean by constant or variable. I took measurements and each 1/4 turn yielded the same delta displacement outwards (~5mm). Also, the remanufactured '95 rack is cheaper than the '96+ one. What did I end up using? The '96+ one because the housing looked a bit beefier and it is exactly what came off the car. Chester With a remanufactured rack now in place --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > vehicle Ratio lock-to-lock > 1995 M3 15.4:1-19.8:1 3.0 > 1996 M3 variable (TBD) (TBD) > 1997 M3 15.6:1* (ND) > 1998 M3 15.6:1* (ND) > 1999 M3 17.8:1* 3.2 > 95 325i/is 16.8 3.4 > 96,97 328i/is 16.8:1 3.4 > 1998 328i/is 15.4:1 3.2 > 1999 328i/is 15.4:1 3.4 > > *variable ratio; figure given is mean ratio > > credit to - daanesh chanduwadia ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] replacing brake rotors - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 22:10:43 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] replacing brake rotors Bob, I have 45K miles on my 97, and lots of them AutoX. My fronts rotors are nearing the end, but still have some life left. I do think dealers don't like to see them go toward the end, because they don't know when you will bring the car back, and it's a liability. I keep measuring mine often so I won't get below the minimum. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Group, > > Just had a modified Insp. II done at the dealer yesterday (everything I > couldn't or wouldn't want to do myself). This Dealer is good, they inspected > the bushings front and rear. According to them they are fine, however, they > did mention that the front rotors are near the minimum caliper spec. I have > 32,000 miles on the car with the original Jurid pads. Is this normal? I > never had to replace rotors on any car I've owned. The master tech told me > it's more common on the M3's to wear out the rotors than the pads. Is this > true?
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#3. Soft Brake Pedal Problems - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 00:10:35 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Soft Brake Pedal Problems I rebuilt my front calipers, bled the entire braking system (pressure & pedal) and clutch and my pedal was soft with a noticeably lower emgagement point. I drove the car, got into the abs a little, and re-bled (pressure only) - no air in lines. The pedal is much better but still only about 70%. Has anyone experienced this and figured out the problem and a fix? Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#4. Re:TC Kline Mounts, was YASP, y'all. - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 00:31:07 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re:TC Kline Mounts, was YASP, y'all. I have personally used the TC Kline RSMs for a period of time with Koni SA's and H&R OE Sports. I cannot say that the ride was unacceptably harsh, rather it was solid and wonderfully planted, but no harsher than it is now with the exact same setup, except now using E46 M3 RSMs. What I did experience (as Chester will attest. Chester the Attester) is that over bumps at low to mid speeds, they would klunk as if the central shaft in the RSM was loose about an eighth inch and floundering around, but only over sharp enough vertical deviations. I'd checked them _numerous_ times to make sure nothing was loose, even swapping a recently installed set of poly RTBs with Powerflex jobbies to eliminate other suspects. I also had an Insp II come up and had them check all of the rear subframe and do a test drive to locate the noise. They said it was coming from the RSMs. I pulled the TC monoballs and installed the OEMs, and all has been blissfully solid and quiet since. Again, I would not say that the harshness of the ride has changed, but I enjoy our suspensions and how I can feel the texture of the road I'm on, so my opinion is relative. I still don't understand how or why they were making noise. They are beautiful pieces and FEEL solid and without play when I articulate by hand, but as Chester had pointed out earlier as well, the piece on the car will deal with MUCH greater forces than I can apply by hand. My only thought might be displacement of a snap ring under load, but I have yet to sleuth the cause. Just another statistic Steve
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#5. Fan Klatch - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 00:35:58 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Fan Klatch Whilst I'm here. . . What are the Sight / Sounds / Symptoms of a failing fan clutch? Does the coupling fail to disengage or fail to engage, and can someone clarify the procedure for the Newspaper in the Fan Test and how to interperet it? Thanks, -A. Fan
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#6. Suspension noise; again - from Mark Greer
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Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:50:07 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Suspension noise; again I've checked all of the mounting bolts/nuts holding the front struts in place and the occasional rattle from the front end continues.I even pounded on suspension parts with a rubber mallet to see if I could recreate the noise.Only the brake caliper would respond. However, that went away when the brake was applied. So now I'm wondering if installation of new struts could be amplifying another worn item; control arm joints, bushings etc.Anyone had this happen to them? Any suggestions appreciated.mark 1997 M3/4 ------------------------------------------------ Changed your e-mail? Keep your contacts! Use this free e-mail change of address service from Return Path. Register now!
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#7. Re: Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS! - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 09:30:28 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS! Sorry to hear about your incident... I have one word for you in regards to shreaded tires: recap Yes, it is legal to run recaped tires on the inside wheel of each axle in a trailer. Of course some truckers run recaps on the entire axle (illegal), but they tend to lose the caps (especially if they are used beyond recommended service life), and you end up with shreaded tire mess everywhere. Of course it is some poor unsuspecting M3 driver (why can't it be the guy with the rusty F150 with a lift kit?) that has to hit the remains of the tire. There was a tire place in my local town that used to turn out these recaped tires by the 100s. Interesting process to watch them being made... -Justin -- '74 tii (for parts or restore??) '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Soft Brake Pedal Problems - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 08:04:30 -0700 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brake Pedal Problems Mike, IIRC there was a thread a year or so ago about this same issue. I think it was the master cylinder replacement which finally did the trick. You might do a search and see if something pops up. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Mike Frank [mailto:mfrank28@comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 10:20 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Soft Brake Pedal Problems Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 00:10:35 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Soft Brake Pedal Problems I rebuilt my front calipers, bled the entire braking system (pressure & pedal) and clutch and my pedal was soft with a noticeably lower emgagement point. I drove the car, got into the abs a little, and re-bled (pressure only) - no air in lines. The pedal is much better but still only about 70%. Has anyone experienced this and figured out the problem and a fix? Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. Oil, Oil, Oil! - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 08:43:57 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Oil, Oil, Oil! I spent far too much time going through archives regarding oil weight yesterday. I decided to send and email to Mobil 1 to see if I could get a better response than the last time I tried (I sent them an inquiry earlier this year to which they responded "we recommend you follow your owner's manual.") While that's just fine and dandy for street-only cars, I tend to think you've got to make some adjustments if your car sees a lot of track time. This was their most recent response, followed by my inquiry: << Mobil would recommend that you stay with the Mobil1 15W50 since you are still using the vehicle at the track. Mobil1 15W50 has very good flowing characteristics even in cooler temperatures. I wrote: >I have a '99 BMW M3 in southern California. My car sees approximately 2 >track weekends per month. > >I currently run your 15w50, since I've been seeing plenty of desert temps >and high-rpm driving. Now that things are cooling down (but still track >time), I'm considering changing viscosities. > >Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated (even off the record to avoid >liabilities). > >Thanks, >Jonathan Lawson >> The Mobil 1 website recommends a few different grades for our cars: 10w30, 0w40, 15w50, 0w30 and 5w30. My car will sometimes see sub-freezing temps, but quite rarely. Do our oil-specializing list members all agree that 15w50 is a good choice still? Unfortunately, the inquiry form on the website didn't allow for a long enough question in which I could inquire if their 10w40 for motorcycles was okay for cars, but I'd assume not (since it's specifically labelled for motorcycles). Thanks, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#10. Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 12:12:57 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS Juan, >>And our DOT pandering to lobbing by trucking/transportation companies excepts (accepts) this.<< Now that you mention it, this is really the crime in this whole thing. When you think of how many things the law considers punishable infractions, like not having one of those little reflector thingies on the fender near the headlight, or tint that is is a tiny bit too dark, or a myriad other things which seem much less serious than retreads littering America's roads, its unconscionable that the DOT continues to support these retreads which we all see lying all over the roads, no matter what state your in! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45-50K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio