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#1. Re: [E36M3] X-brace install question - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 07:03:01 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] X-brace install question At 08:20 AM 10/5/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 09:17:17 -0400 >From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> >Subject: X-brace install question > >I need buy the bolts to attach the front on the X-brace to the >front crossmember and was wondering if anyone knew what >length bolt is needed, and if I should use a lock washer or >Lok-tite? I know the bolt is a 8x1.25, but how long? 20mm? >25mm? Longer? >Thanks, >Lee >'95 Violet (hopefully installing triple-adjustable Motons, H&R 60mm >springs > and TCKline hardware today) Dare I take a chance on answering another question? :-) Especially, so early in the morning. According to the Ron Stygar write up, M8x20, with washer. I used red loctite. I believe it's a flat washer, but can't remember for sure. Jay
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#2. FS: LTW flywheel - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 10:31:21 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: LTW flywheel UUC flywheel, still in original box, $450. If anyone is interested please contact me directly. Thanks, Bill Molina _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#3. Re: Insp. II - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 10:47:01 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Insp. II Hi Bob, Thanks for responding to my question. >>My Dealer charges $75.00/hr. labor, so adjust accordingly. Not sure = what Boston Dealer's charge<< Wow, arent you lucky! Im in Westchester County, NY, and my dealer = charges $91/hr!!!!!!!!!! I have independants around here that charge = more than your dealer ! For my '99 M3, the following items from your dealer's schedule dont even = appear as part of the standard Inspection II: 1)transmission and differential fluid change=20 2)fuel filter=20 3)coolant change ($87.15)=20 4) brake fluid change ($75.00), had them use my ATE yellow=20 BMW calls for a coolant change every 4 yrs, and brake fluid change every = 2 yrs from original production date. Not technically Inspec II items. >> they worked on the car from 8:00am until 4:45pm<< Sheez, at my dealer this Alone would have cost $800! >>I feel I have a great Dealer. << I feel youre right! :--) Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45-50K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank = pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; = X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by = Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mdriver13@aol.com=20 To: elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net ; e36m3@bmw-m.net=20 Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 9:41 AM Subject: Insp. II In a message dated 10/4/02 12:12:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, = elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net writes:=20 Since a full inspection II is so expensive, running anywhere from = about $600=20 to $900 depending on how many items the particular dealership adds = to the=20 base BMW list, Im wondering how much you were able to save by = performing=20 some of the functions yourself. Do you recall which items you did = yourself?=20 Hi Paul,=20 Here's the deal. My Dealer charges $75.00/hr. labor, so adjust = accordingly. Not sure what Boston Dealer's charge? When the Service = Advisor punched in the Insp. II into the computer system the display = said $975! But he assured me that the work to be performed would come = to much less, and it did to the tune of $424.81 (actual Insp. II was = $134.78). He said this was the cheapest Insp. II they ever performed. = ;-))=20 So the things I did:=20 spark plugs=20 transmission and differential fluid change=20 engine oil and filter=20 air filter (I use a K&N)=20 What they did:=20 1) total inspection: all bushings front and rear OK at this time=20 2) A/C microfilter (I tried to do this myself, almost killed my neck)=20 3) fuel filter=20 4) the drive belts were dry rotting so they were replaced ($127.88)=20 5) coolant change ($87.15)=20 6) brake fluid change ($75.00), had them use my ATE yellow=20 Items 4-6 brought the price up to $424.81=20 Not bad in my opinion. I can live with this! =20 BTW: They sent me a coupon for an alignment...$85.00. Since I had = them install my front Koni's SA's during the service, I needed the = alignment anyway! =20 So in total, they worked on the car from 8:00am until 4:45pm...a good = deal. I'm fortunate, I feel I have a great Dealer. They love the car, = and take an interest in my autox'ing. I just wish they'd sponsor me ;-( = take care,=20 Bob Gill=20 97 ///M3 coupe=20 Philly Region SCCA=20 AS Champion 1997 & 2000=20 BSP Champion 2001=20
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#4. fuel pump and concourse events - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 11:09:02 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: fuel pump and concourse events No, these subjects are not related....But I thought Id combine the questions into one thread, so please forgive. So, first, does anybody know how much fuel pressure our pumps are typically putting out? Is this ever varied by electronics? Second, re concourse events, do they typically have different categories, so that daily drivers dont have to compete against garage queens? I dont know, but it just doesnt seem quite fair if a daily driver that puts on an annual 15K miles, for instance, has to go up against a garage queen of the same age which sees, maybe 3000 annual miles, only in good weather. Is there a typical way in which the competition categories are broken down? Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#5. PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 11:15:01 EDT From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s In a message dated 10/5/2002 10:08:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Dave - I hate to disagree, but I had the exact opposite experience with my PF97s. I did an event at Lime Rock this spring in the rain. Afterwards I had a large amount of PF97 material on my wheels that absolutely not come off. It was on there like cement. It was a very unpleasant experience. Almost ruined a set of BBS wheels. It took me all day one saturday to get them clean, and it took some harsh chemicals to do it. In my opinion, any carbon metallic pad is going to do this. The metallic particles that come off the pad when you are on the track are very hot - probably in the neighborhood of 1500 F. You can confirm this by taking your car with PF97s for a drive at night. If you step on the brakes HARD when the pads are cold, you get the equivalent of a 4th of July display from your front wheels. The particles coming off obviously red/orange hot which is up in the 1300 - 1600 F range. To avoid this problem, I have switched to Porterfield R4 pads. These are different from most other "race" pads on the market since the have NO metallic content. They are a carbon kevlar blend. I have run these at around 10 events this year, including an event in the rain at Watkins Glen, and I have not had the cement-dust on the wheels problem. The R4 pads probably have about 10% less bite (friction) than the PF97s. They do not bite quite as hard. I am a very hard braker and I am willing to give up an edge to the PF97 drivers in order to be able to clean my wheels easily after a wet weekend at the track. As an added bonus, the R4 compound is extremely easy on the rotors. Even after a hard 2 day event, the rotors look nice and polished. The PF97s are much harder on the rotors. IMHO. By the way - a friend of mine locally recently had the cement-dust on the wheels experience with the PF97s as well. Regards, John Cloutier > Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 05:52:18 -0400 > From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> > Subject: Re: PF97's > > Mo, > > Just clean 'em. The "never comes off after it gets wet" syndrome applies > to > the dust from Hawk blues, and it's rumored that their latest compound has > helped fix this nasty Hawk habit. Any Hawk users want to confirm this?? > At > any rate, you'll not have this problem with the PF97's, which are a truly > great pad IMHO. Their dust washes off the same as those nasty-dirty stock > Jurids. It's just that there's even more of it. > > Dave Hogg >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s - from Sean W. Smith
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 11:53:29 -0400 From: "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s Same Cement dust problem here with PF97's ruined two sets of wheels and its bonded to the paint. On the car paint clay bar will remove but the wheel dus required stell wire brushes and mega scrubbing wheel are ruined. I have used R4 in the past with no problems and went back to them and again no problems.... PF97's are EVIL! with Poterfields great prices and discount to list members the R4S and the R4 are two pads that should meet almost anyones needs. Right now I'm trying R4E's. one event down. Ask me in three months what I thin of.... the fireworks were kind of cool the first few times..... :) Again same experience here.... Sean -----Original Message----- From: AVUSM3@aol.com [mailto:AVUSM3@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 11:20 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 11:15:01 EDT From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: PF 97s vs. Porterfield R4s In a message dated 10/5/2002 10:08:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Dave - I hate to disagree, but I had the exact opposite experience with my PF97s. I did an event at Lime Rock this spring in the rain. Afterwards I had a large amount of PF97 material on my wheels that absolutely not come off. It was on there like cement. It was a very unpleasant experience. Almost ruined a set of BBS wheels. It took me all day one saturday to get them clean, and it took some harsh chemicals to do it. In my opinion, any carbon metallic pad is going to do this. The metallic particles that come off the pad when you are on the track are very hot - probably in the neighborhood of 1500 F. You can confirm this by taking your car with PF97s for a drive at night. If you step on the brakes HARD when the pads are cold, you get the equivalent of a 4th of July display from your front wheels. The particles coming off obviously red/orange hot which is up in the 1300 - 1600 F range. To avoid this problem, I have switched to Porterfield R4 pads. These are different from most other "race" pads on the market since the have NO metallic content. They are a carbon kevlar blend. I have run these at around 10 events this year, including an event in the rain at Watkins Glen, and I have not had the cement-dust on the wheels problem. The R4 pads probably have about 10% less bite (friction) than the PF97s. They do not bite quite as hard. I am a very hard braker and I am willing to give up an edge to the PF97 drivers in order to be able to clean my wheels easily after a wet weekend at the track. As an added bonus, the R4 compound is extremely easy on the rotors. Even after a hard 2 day event, the rotors look nice and polished. The PF97s are much harder on the rotors. IMHO. By the way - a friend of mine locally recently had the cement-dust on the wheels experience with the PF97s as well. Regards, John Cloutier > Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 05:52:18 -0400 > From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> > Subject: Re: PF97's > > Mo, > > Just clean 'em. The "never comes off after it gets wet" syndrome applies > to > the dust from Hawk blues, and it's rumored that their latest compound has > helped fix this nasty Hawk habit. Any Hawk users want to confirm this?? > At > any rate, you'll not have this problem with the PF97's, which are a truly > great pad IMHO. Their dust washes off the same as those nasty-dirty stock > Jurids. It's just that there's even more of it. > > Dave Hogg > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Inspection II - from Patrick Dargan
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 14:18:08 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Inspection II Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 09:41:57 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Insp. II "...So the things I did: spark plugs transmission and differential fluid change engine oil and filter air filter (I use a K&N)... I noticed that the Owner's Manual indicates that transmission and diff fluid are "lifetime" (but, doesn't say who's). Is there a consensus on how often to change? Also noticed that the manual recommends a coolant change every two years. Was wondering if anyone managed to get this down while the car was under free service?
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#8. RE: FS: LTW flywheel - from Matt Malfa
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Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 14:35:56 -0400 From: "Matt Malfa" <matt@shortshifter.com> Subject: RE: FS: LTW flywheel Hi Bill, I'm sorry I didn't contact you about this sooner; when you last posted this item for sale, I got the impression that it was a Fidanza flywheel that you had purchased through some source other than UUC. In fact, you didn't mention "UUC" once in your original posting, see below. Unfortunately, UUC Motorwerks has no record of your purchase of this flywheel, so I have to assume that it was purchased from one of our distributors or dealers. Since it is still new, in the box, I'm sure we can arrange for it to be returned through your authorized UUC dealer for a complete refund. Again sorry for the confusion. Please contact me ASAP, and UUC will be glad to help! best regards, - -Matt Malfa UUC Motorwerks * http://www.uucmotorwerks.com * 732.398.0001 -----Original Message----- From: Guillermo Molina [mailto:drwillb@msn.com] Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 10:40 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] FS: LTW flywheel Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 10:31:21 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: LTW flywheel UUC flywheel, still in original box, $450. If anyone is interested please contact me directly. Thanks, Bill Molina -----Original Message----- From: Guillermo Molina [mailto:drwillb@msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 5:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] FS: Clutch and LTW flywheel--brand new Brand new in original packaging: Fidanza lightweight flywheel, factory M3 clutch and pressure plate, factory throwout bearing. Everything needed to upgrade your clutch setup. These are all fresh, unused parts to do the job right. $825 Price includes shipping to US or Canada. Bill Molina 95 M3
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#9. Re: Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS! - from David
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Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 15:34:37 -0500 From: David <tristar500@mac.com> Subject: Re: Another reason why driving in Texas SUCKS! This is just one of several reasons that I have decided to sell my beautiful 96 M3. I just can stand the aggravation of finding yet another ding or paint chip everytime I wash it. I was reading on a German E30 site that one of the ways to make it faster is to get rid of excess weight. One suggestion is to dump the spare because the chances of needing it are about the same as winning the lottery. It's obvious that this guy has never lived in Texas. I've almost lost track of home many times I've had to get a flat fixed. I'm going to find myself a nice little E30 325is that I can mod a little and then flog at DEs and not feel sick to my stomach when it gets hit with the inevitable Texas road trash. Dave
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#10. Recommend service in Irvine, CA area? - from Jim Files
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Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 14:12:47 -0700 From: Jim Files <jsf1@san.rr.com> Subject: Recommend service in Irvine, CA area? Can anyone recommend a shop in the Irvine, California area that does good work? Looking particularly for a shop to go to for maintenance, although inevitably there will be a need for fixing something that is broken. Thanks for your help, Jim 98 M3/2