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#1. Re: [E36M3] Another case of suspension noise - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 23:10:54 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another case of suspension noise Johnny, I would suspect the nut on top of the rear shocks being loose. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Johnny Lee" <mclee@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 9:30 PM Subject: [E36M3] Another case of suspension noise > Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 00:33:26 -0400 > From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> > Subject: Another case of suspension noise > > > I changed the RSM on my car about a month ago (Ground Control) myself and > everything seemed fine. Car drove normally but after a week I start to > notice noise coming from the back of the car. It doesn't happen all the > time, only when I go through minor bumps at slower speed, and it doesn't > even happen all the time either. The noise is similar to a wire hanger > vibrating. fearing that I did something wrong, I took my car to the > mechanic and they suspected that the rear shocks had gone south. So I > replaced the rear shock (stock) and the wire hanger noise is gone. However > a new noise occurs when I go through the situation. It is not as ugly as > before and it only happens on the right rear of the car. Like a small > "thump" when I go through bumps at slower speed. Again, it doesn't happen > all the time and absolutely no nice when I am doing highway speed when I hit > expansion joints, minor speed bumps, cracks on the road, etc. I am puzzled > but I want to check to see anyone on the list have any ideas before I take > it back to the mechanic for further diagnostics. Could the stiffer RSM have > made some problems to manifest earlier? > > I do think that if I revert back to stock RSM the noise could possibly go > away. But I think that is more like masking a problem instead of solving > it... > > Thanks in advance, > > > Johnny > > 1998 M3/4 > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Intermittent airbag light - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 08:09:27 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Intermittent airbag light Alain, I agree with what you've said but it's my understanding that will cause the light to come on and stay on. On my car (and Juan's from his description) the light comes on every time I start the car and goes off within a couple of minutes. Aren't you describing something different? Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> > It's not that uncommon. According to my local independent shop > (Bimmerhaus), it's usually caused by a problem in one of the front seat belt > latches, which are supposed to "tell" the SRS system whether the belt is > fastened. Sometimes there's actually nothing wrong; when you carry > passengers in the rear seat, they can kick the wiring harness and cause a > spurious fault. Whatever the cause, once the fault is encountered, the > light will keep coming on until the SRS fault is cleared from the computer. > A shop can read the code from the body computer and tell you where the fault > may be. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > > Mine has always done this at start up as long as I've owned it. > > > > Jeremy Lucas > > 95 M3 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> > > > > I'm having an intermittent airbag light on my M3. It typically comes on > > at > > start up and stays on until a few minutes into my drive and does not > > come on > > again until I restart. Does anyone have any ideas about how to track > > this > > down?
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Another case of suspension noise - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 06:24:07 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another case of suspension noise At 11:30 PM 10/9/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 00:33:26 -0400 >From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> >Subject: Another case of suspension noise > > > I changed the RSM on my car about a month ago (Ground Control) myself and >everything seemed fine. Car drove normally but after a week I start to >notice noise coming from the back of the car. It doesn't happen all the >time, only when I go through minor bumps at slower speed, and it doesn't >even happen all the time either. The noise is similar to a wire hanger >vibrating. fearing that I did something wrong, I took my car to the >mechanic and they suspected that the rear shocks had gone south. So I >replaced the rear shock (stock) and the wire hanger noise is gone. However >a new noise occurs when I go through the situation. It is not as ugly as >before and it only happens on the right rear of the car. Like a small >"thump" when I go through bumps at slower speed. Again, it doesn't happen >all the time and absolutely no nice when I am doing highway speed when I hit >expansion joints, minor speed bumps, cracks on the road, etc. I am puzzled >but I want to check to see anyone on the list have any ideas before I take >it back to the mechanic for further diagnostics. Could the stiffer RSM have >made some problems to manifest earlier? > > I do think that if I revert back to stock RSM the noise could possibly go >away. But I think that is more like masking a problem instead of solving >it... > > Thanks in advance, > > >Johnny > >1998 M3/4 Johnny- I installed the GC RSMs at the same time I did H&R OE Sports and Koni Sports. I've had the rear shocks out at least 8-10 times, making rebound adjustments. One of the times I had a similar noise on the right rear immediately after re-install. I loosened the RSM nuts, wiggled it around to eliminate any binding and re-tightened. Problem gone. Never had any problems since. It's something you can easily try yourself. You should be sure you have the poly inserts/bushings installed for street and not track. Unless, of course, you want the stiffer setup. If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have a cracked shock tower. Let's hope not. Good luck - Jay
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#4. Clutch Life - from The Buch
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 06:34:03 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Clutch Life I am interested in knowing what to expect for a duty cycle on the clutch in our cars. If anyone who has had to replace a clutch sends me the mileage(s) and other details, I will compile the data and post the distribution. Regards, Doug
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#5. Ballast for Alignment - from The Buch
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 06:38:52 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Ballast for Alignment Stock spec seems to be for a full tank of gas and 150lbs in each front seat, the middle of the back seat and the trunk (total 600lbs of ballast). Since I usually (95% of the time) have just me on board with no luggage, why not just ballast it for me, or am I missing something in the assumptions used by the alignment folks? Thanks, Doug
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#6. Another case of suspension noise - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:27:59 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Another case of suspension noise >>I am puzzled but I want to check to see anyone on the list have any ideas before I take it back to the mechanic for further diagnostics. Could the stiffer RSM have made some problems to manifest earlier?<< Remember, its not just the mounts that are prone to problems on our cars. Its also the rear shock tower tops themselves. Make sure youve done a thorough analysis of the top surface of the rear shock towers. Scrutinize them closely for any tiny cracks or tears in the sheet metal. Make sure to do it with the nuts OFF the RSMs. On mine, the crack was partially under one of the nuts. Its almost as common as the bad RSMs themselves, and alot more expensive unless it happens within the warranty period and youve got a good dealer :--( Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. JC intake vs PAR intake - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:28:32 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: JC intake vs PAR intake I have the JC Intake, Chip and Euro HFM on my M3. I love it and it has been my favorite modification to date. I am a fan of ITG filters based on what I heard from J Conforti as well as considerable research I did on my own. I am not a fan of K&N filters based on this same research (albeit I used to be). Best regards, Rich 95 M3 90 325is
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#8. RE: [E36M3] JC intake vs PAR intake - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:51:15 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@nycap.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] JC intake vs PAR intake Guess I have to chime in a little to defend K&N if nothing else. I've had both. Currently I have the JC Intake with Shark Injection on the M3. Love the sound at WOT and the performance. It seems like it should filter well. I've had K&N on many other cars with excellent results. Jeep CJ7 and Jeep Cherokee that actually saw a lot of off road time with dust, dirt, etc. to plug. The CJ7 had almost 200,000 miles when I traded it on the Cherokee. The Cherokee now has just under 300,000 miles. Neither have had any significant wear on the engine and neither burn any oil. Oil was changed on regular 3000-5000 mile intervals and except for a leak on the Cherokee, never needed to add oil. IMHO, either the JC or K&N will filter fine but the JC setup just looks right on the M3. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:28:32 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: JC intake vs PAR intake I have the JC Intake, Chip and Euro HFM on my M3. I love it and it has been my favorite modification to date. I am a fan of ITG filters based on what I heard from J Conforti as well as considerable research I did on my own. I am not a fan of K&N filters based on this same research (albeit I used to be).
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: JC intake (now) vs ECIS intake - from Jeremy Warfield
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 11:24:08 -0400 From: "Jeremy Warfield" <jww95@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: JC intake (now) vs ECIS intake Rob, You're right, the intake battle is one of the most subjective debates of all time and it doesn't need to be brought up again, so I'll make this quick. The only intent in my first reply was to see the dyno results of your intake comparison, as you threw out the claim of JC stomping the ECIS, without providing any raw data so we could judge the results for ourselves. To date, the only head to head shootout , with test conditions held constant, was the BPG test, and that showed VERY similar results between the two intakes. And that test was run by BPG which was a distributor of JC intakes and software. So until that data is superceded, I am sticking by my personal experience, and their data. That is what I wanted to highlight in my initial response. And you comment about BMW motorsport engineers building a car that must meet the needs of all consumers is exactly what my original point was. We as car owners and purchasers of aftermarket products, each have our own level of utility and indifference that allows us to judge the comparative value of products. For example I value the ECIS over the JC intake for my own reasons. So to make a blanket statement that we own m3's and should spend the extra $150 dollars for the JC, goes against our own individual tastes. If this were the case, we might as well not have an aftermarket at all, as we are not able to make our own choices. take care, Jeremy- '95 m3 (ECIS Euro Intake purchased for reasons other than saving $150 :) -----Original Message----- From: Rob [mailto:speedmaster@telus.net] Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 1:16 AM To: Jeremy Warfield; M3 mailing list Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: JC intake vs PAR intake Hello Listers, I must say that I regret jumping on the original thread. I should have been sensitive and remembered from previous years that this group is very passionate about intake discussions! I have no interest in trying to sway anyone towards any of the systems from JC, ECIS, Dinan, PAR, etc. and really don't have the energy to argue back and forth about it. I have owned, driven and tested many of them and I prefer the JC systems for my own personal cars. I will answer a couple of questions below, but otherwise prefer to stay out of the discussion. Sorry for prying open the can of worms :) > >>> I don't boubt that on some cars both might make similar *peak* numbers, > but I am sure that the area under the curve will be much better with the JC. > > I seem to recall a head to head test of the two intakes by the late Boston > Performance Group that would beg to differ, so if someone has a stored > version of the page, please post up. ****Yes I too recall that test, and both systems made very similar numbers. > >>> Either way, we are talking about expensive BMW Motorsport cars here, who > wouldn't want to spend a few bucks more for the nicer product? > > Well by this logic, the engineers of the expensive BMW M cars would have > designed an intake that would far surpass any aftermarket solutions in terms > of form and functionality. ***Not in my book of logic. If cost had no bearing on the final direction of marketed products, we probably would have seen the "Euro" M3 engines in North America. Also, mfg's such as BMW have concerns other that outright power when building an air intake system. Noise level, ease of maintenace, and filter life to name a few. Regards, Rob
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#10. FS: Parts, parts, parts - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:19:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Parts, parts, parts EXHAUST: I have a gen III exhaust whose tips were damaged in a recent fender bender. You can purchase replacement tips from AA or I can provide them if you want at an additional cost. Or...you can cut off the tips and weld on the tips of your choice. Or...you can cut off the left tip, rotate and weld back on Anyway, being anal as I am, I'm replacing the whole exhaust. So...my loss is your gain. If it's going on a race car and you don't care, all the more better. I'm thinking $400. ---------------------------------------- M3 SIDESKIRTS: These are OE off of my '99 M3 with 46k miles. The passenger side one has some scuff marks on the bottom (not visible unless you crawl under the car) as well as some fine swirl marks from the time I went off at Lime Rock There is also a scratch from my ex's heel...dammit! Anyway, they are currently titanium silver. You can buy them from me as is or (for an additional charge) I can have them stripped, repaired (any gouges, scratches, etc) and painted to your color of choice. If you want this option, I'll have to get back to you with how much more. New, these cost ~$210 dealer list each. So $200 as is. ----------------------------------------- HALF A SET OF CLEAR LIGHTS: I have passenger side front clear corner and rear clear taillamps. Used. $90 shipped. Thanks, Chester More parts on the way. ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com